Taranis X9E

[Stuart]

This is my Taranis X9E, it was one of the first batch released in July 2015 and having had it for almost a year I love it! I had the X9D before so just copied all my model settings over from one to the other. The first thing I did was add the 3D joysticks, from the factory the X9E throttle stick is a ratchet type with no adjustment for self centering, you can buy a new self centering gimbal but I wanted the 3D ones. I've also added 4x 3 pos momentry switches.

Some pics:

http://i1252.photobucket.com/albums/hh580/ovj99/Taranis/IMG_0268_zpsrnirojz7.jpg (http://s1252.photobucket.com/user/ovj99/media/Taranis/IMG_0268_zpsrnirojz7.jpg.html)

http://i1252.photobucket.com/albums/hh580/ovj99/Taranis/2015-08-08%2018.00.57_zpssfiuyx7w.jpg (http://s1252.photobucket.com/user/ovj99/media/Taranis/2015-08-08%2018.00.57_zpssfiuyx7w.jpg.html)

A screen shot of the 944B mixes:

http://i1252.photobucket.com/albums/hh580/ovj99/Taranis/IMG_0269_zpswjjpgam5.jpg (http://s1252.photobucket.com/user/ovj99/media/Taranis/IMG_0269_zpswjjpgam5.jpg.html)

I've added temp sensors to the 944B which show up on the telemetry screen on the X9E and vocal warnings for some of the switches, its an awesome piece of kit once you get used to programming it which I find easier on the pc and then download to the radio.

Stu

[SmallHaul]

The tray style shape is neat and it is nice that you can program it on a PC.

Can you switch back and forth between two models that are left powered up and drive one without the other responding to the transmitter as well? This is a feature that i like with my DX18.

Where did you get the 3d joystick? Why do they call it 3d?

[Stuart]

The tray style shape is neat and it is nice that you can program it on a PC.

Can you switch back and forth between two models that are left powered up and drive one without the other responding to the transmitter as well? This is a feature that i like with my DX18.

Where did you get the 3d joystick? Why do they call it 3d?

Yes you can switch between models that are left powered on no problem, I do this a lot at shows with no issues.

Joysticks came from robotshop (http://www.robotshop.com/en/3-axis-joystick-w-button.html) they are called 3D or 3-axis because the top rotates giving 3 proportional functions per stick.

[SmallHaul]

Yes you can switch between models that are left powered on no problem, I do this a lot at shows with no issues.

Joysticks came from robotshop (http://www.robotshop.com/en/3-axis-joystick-w-button.html) they are called 3D or 3-axis because the top rotates giving 3 proportional functions per stick.

The rotating top on the joystick is nice option, it would be good for steering a truck. That is a really good price for an entire 3 axis joystick assembly.

Great info thanks.

[liftmys10]

Thanks for the info!a

[Cooper]

I've been waiting for the 12 version. Any idea when they will releas that one? I know some were sent to testers but that was a while ago. I have the normal stick/air style taranis. After I got that is when I found the tray style. Should have looked a bit more :). I have written in earlier posts about the ease of using this radio system. Love the pc programming and then flashing it. Have not had any issues with anything radio related. Have 4 models on and just as fast as I can switch buttons on radio I van go from one to the next. For the price and the unlimited mixes, 32 (or however many) channels, I've been switching everything to this radio system. Even thought of getting a spare (for price) if I ever dropped , dunked in the drink, or run it over I could just flash a memory card to the other and never worry about not having tx!! Really nice that you added those sticks. You have given me the incentive to do similar. Then I will be able to have full control of all hydraulic functions (on sticks) and use the rotation of sticks for track drives. Really have been wanting to be able to drive an excavator in and out of holes. Just can't do it too well with only two hands with traditional sticks and sliders. Thanks stu. So it is plug -n-play on the addition of those sticks? Or is a little soldering connectors involved?

[Cooper]

Answered my own question after looking into your link on those sticks,,,, and I guess you pretty much just mad it into the 12 version by adding the other switches :). Anyway good read stu!! Thanks.

[Stuart]

Your welcome,

coop I can't see the Horus being released anytime soon, for me the X9E is better any way, its more customizable (is that a word lol) as you can easily add switches and pots.
There are spare connectors (10 I think) on the main board inside the tx which is what I used for the 3d sticks and switches, you then add them in the hardware section in companion by telling it what you fitted, then calibrate the tx et voila!

3D sticks need a bit of soldering and some fabrication to fit but not difficult, I used the mounting plate and cables from the original sticks to fit mine.

Stu

[stevec]

[ATTACH]5622[/ATTACHmy new digger

[Berman]

This looks like a nice unit. Not as expensive as some of the other tray style units like the Servonaut zw04 etc.

I bought a DX6 (black version) and it refuses to work with my MFU's (works fine with my Beier though) so this might be a good alternative and future proof me for other units and some small construction equipment etc...

[lickedi]

Nice Job, om working on the same remote and could need some help with how to connect the 4axis joysticks to the remote ��

[Stuart]

This looks like a nice unit. Not as expensive as some of the other tray style units like the Servonaut zw04 etc.

I bought a DX6 (black version) and it refuses to work with my MFU's (works fine with my Beier though) so this might be a good alternative and future proof me for other units and some small construction equipment etc...

For sure, the Taranis works well with both the MFU and Beier modules and with the possibilty of 32 channels your more than future proofed.

Nice Job, om working on the same remote and could need some help with how to connect the 4axis joysticks to the remote ��

For the X & Y axis I cut the wires from the original joysticks and soldered to the new ones.

For the Z axis and pushbuttons you will need some 3 pin JST connectors, connect these to the spare sockets on the main board and configure the outputs on the radio, then calibrate the sticks/swithes and voila!

If you need more help then let me know.

[lickedi]

Thanks mate, all done now ��

[Cloudbase]

Hello Stuart,

could you be so kind and repost a picture in which order to connect the cable colors to the new sticks please. Do I have to reuse the old boards mounted to the old pot´s?

Lars

[Stuart]

Hello Lars,

Heres the pic:

https://image.ibb.co/fZLdP5/2015_08_08_18_00_57.jpg

No you don't need to use the old boards just the wires with the plugs.

If you need any more help just ask.

Stuart

[Cloudbase]

Thank you very much.
Now that works. Made a mistake with the order of the wires.

[DrDiff]

I would suggest updating to the m9 hall effect sticks!

[egronvold]

Which ports did you use for the pot and push button on the sticks? Was it plug and play, or did you have to use extra resistors?

[Stuart]

Sorry for the late reply, the board is sooo slow for me that I havn't been on much lately.
I just used 4 of the available empty ports and configured it in the settings (they're not connected in the photos) no need for resistors, it sorts its self out when you calibrate the sticks.