Driven front axle options?

[SmallHaul]

After running my Mack Dump Truck in the dirt a lot this weekend I really want to put a driven front axle in it. What are my options as far as axles? And where is the best place to get one of those extended main shafts for the 3speed tamiya tranny to power the front axle?

[fhhhstix]

I use the TLT-1 tamiya axle you can get a new axle kit from tower hobbies but it would be cheaper to try evilbay. As for the shaft they are on e bay as well but you could just buy an Axial trans to use as a transfer case I have used two of them and they work great and they are about $35-40. Here are my trucks with the TLT-1 in them. You can also use a highlift axle they have the same gear ratio as well but they are wider than the TLT-1

http://i574.photobucket.com/albums/ss185/brokenb4/Black%20dump%20truck/102_1714.jpg

http://i574.photobucket.com/albums/ss185/brokenb4/Mack%20and%20dump%20trailer/IM000421.jpg

http://i574.photobucket.com/albums/ss185/brokenb4/Mack%20and%20dump%20trailer/IM000414.jpg

http://i574.photobucket.com/albums/ss185/brokenb4/Mack%20and%20dump%20trailer/IM000413.jpg

http://i574.photobucket.com/albums/ss185/brokenb4/Cab%20over%20dump/IM000812.jpg

http://i574.photobucket.com/albums/ss185/brokenb4/Cab%20over%20dump/IM000663.jpg

http://i574.photobucket.com/albums/ss185/brokenb4/Cab%20over%20dump/IM000664.jpg

http://i574.photobucket.com/albums/ss185/brokenb4/Cab%20over%20dump/IM000665.jpg

I hope this helps.
Travis

[SmallHaul]

Thanks Travis I'l see if can find a good deal on a tlt1 axle then.

[fhhhstix]

Scott the Axial trans also gives you a 3:1 reduction as well so no need for a GRU on the motor.

[SonoranWraith]

The gear doctor and bamatech (both german) sell modified semi axles as steer drive axles but they are pricey. Can even get locking but they are hard on spiders.

[SmallHaul]

Thanks for all the info.

Which rcchannel axle is used for the front of a rig? Would it be narrower than a tlt-1 axle?

[FreddyGearDrive]

SmallHaul, This is the diff between stock & rc channels narrowed.
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn50/FreddyGearDrive/freddys%20best/dumppics4224.jpg
Now carson & rc channel.
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn50/FreddyGearDrive/freddys%20best/dumppics4225.jpg
With these two you can run super singles w/out dickin around.
Now TLT.
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn50/FreddyGearDrive/freddys%20best/dumppics4223.jpg
F-350.
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn50/FreddyGearDrive/freddys%20best/dumppics4222.jpg
This will give you the low down in a row.
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn50/FreddyGearDrive/freddys%20best/dumppics4228.jpg
Hope this helps.
FGD

[SmallHaul]

Great info Freddy! You should make this a sticky.

So, starting from narrowest to widest:

1) Stock front axle

2) Carson

3) Rcchannel narrow

4) TLT-1

5) F-350

Does that look right?

If so, where would I get a Carson axle? and how much?:)

[FreddyGearDrive]

BINGO!That's the exact order.
SmallHaul,the carson front diff is like $200.:eek:
For the same price you can get this.
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn50/FreddyGearDrive/freddys%20best/dumppics4229.jpg
But! Now you have to buy a set of semi rear diffs to match the front. The rear diff that comes w/the front is two wide for semi. But you can't beat the look of these babies.
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn50/FreddyGearDrive/freddys%20best/dumppics4076.jpg
The carson is like 2mm narrower than rc/channel.
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn50/FreddyGearDrive/freddys%20best/dumppics4230.jpg
The carson I was purchasing from pmd. But surf a little & you can pick them up a lot cheaper.
Hope this helps!
FGD

[SonoranWraith]

The carson PN is 500907002. Dual output is 500907003. :D Still will be over 200 by the time you pay euros and get it shipped here.

[FreddyGearDrive]

I saw some on e-bay awhile back. They went for around $100 each.
But now that I'm lookin for some,none to be had.
Oh! While I think of it. STRONGLY suggest you use a transfercase!
If you try to use a dual output shaft trany,where is the front drive shaft gunna go. Unless your going to cut the dump box,& stick the tany in there.Remember,the drive shaft has to be telescopic for diff movement.
There tons of things to use for a transfer case. One of my favorites,is what travis showed you. Most of the time,I mod the f-350 trany for my dumps.That seems to be the best route for me. You can pick them up all over.(cheap!) Then if you go that route,I'll show you the mod I do to them.Then there the perfect speed.( Nice & slow). & this will cost you around $50-70 TOTAL!:D
FGD
Good luck!

[SmallHaul]

You are right, I would have to move the trans way back to use a dual output shaft on it. I'll look for a f-350 trans then. I e-mailed rcchannel to see if they would sell me 1 front f-350 narrow axle (fingers crossed).

[Thorsteenster]

I'm planning on building my Volvo as 4WD. For the front axle I'll be trying this:
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=120531
Or buying a German unit already built.

Seeing the pics Fhhhstix posted though, a standard TLT axle looks to bring the front axle width out to match the outer rear tires, so even a slightly narrowed TLT should look pretty good.

[SmallHaul]

Thanks Thorsteenster, narrowing the TLT1's would be cool!

Where would I get the TLT axle C's?

[Thorsteenster]

I've gotten them in the past from RCP Crawlers, but they don't have them in stock at the moment. I hope they will soon though, I'll PM them on RCC and see what's up.
http://rcpcrawlers.com/product.php?productid=847

Also, here's a product plug for RCP, they make some killer R&P sets for the TLT/semi axles.
http://rcpcrawlers.com/product.php?productid=665&cat=17&page=1

[grumpygrady]

i second this one for a sticky
just needs the widths of each axle in numbers

[SmallHaul]

I found TLT axle C's:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250593108673&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

[Thorsteenster]

Probably your best bet to try this sooner rather than later.
Another crawler that makes them but out of stock:
http://www.montanascaledesigns.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=24&products_id=32

[SmallHaul]

I Agree, I did buy a set of C's from that ebay link.

I'll get the tlt-1 axle off of ebay too. It seems the f-350 tranny might be the hard part. I have an f-350 sitting here that I rarely run that I can use and just replace it when I find one. I don't like to do that though.

[Thorsteenster]

You can always just get a transfer case from RC4WD or Eritex. Or really a bit of rod and a couple pinions for something simple, especially if it's hidden from view.

[Bob From Downunder]

This is a fantactic forum. I have read this several times and have more understanding of what is required for a 6x6. I have also searched for an F350 transmission but no luck so far.
Fred, you demonstrated the difference's in manufactors front axle's very well - thank you for that.

Bob

[Bob From Downunder]

Guys, now that the front diff is sorted I would now like know about the transmission options. Has anyone used the RC4WD 3 speed full metal transmission? The gear ratios seem a little bit fast? How someone can shead some light here.

Bob

[Thorsteenster]

Smallhaul is doing this:
http://rctruckandconstruction.com/showthread.php?t=236
Or you can look around for a High Lift trans.
As well RC4WD and Eritex make some nice transfer cases, don't know how well they'd look on a semi tho lol.

[SmallHaul]

You can always just get a transfer case from RC4WD or Eritex. Or really a bit of rod and a couple pinions for something simple, especially if it's hidden from view.

Thanks Thorsteenster, that statement gave me the idea to make this:

http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff66/scottmaxxin/side2-tranny.jpg

[Thorsteenster]

That's good thinking there. I have a semi trans and have been thinking how I'd couple it to a t-case, never thought about just building one on the back!

[Bob From Downunder]

Gee thats good thinking. Anyway to make the front engage and disengage?

Bob

[SmallHaul]

Thanks, Thorsteenster

Gee thats good thinking. Anyway to make the front engage and disengage?

Bob

Thanks, here is one way to disconnect:

http://www.tcscrawlers.com/images/misc/axd_assembly_instructions.pdf

[Roadmasters]

Stickeyd :D

[Bob From Downunder]

Thanks Scott, that was very helpful for me. I had something like that in my mind after I had looked at the RC4WD and your very own conversion build. I'm not sure but if the R2 has any reverse. Do you know?

Bob

[Thorsteenster]

No, but the ESC makes up for a mechanical reverse.
This R2 version looks pretty cool, 2 speed and selectable 2WD/4WD.
http://rc4wdstore.com/2/product_info.php?cPath=25&products_id=758&osCsid=e840ed433a407d709951140c0bf709c3

[Bob From Downunder]

Scott, how does the ESC make up for a mechanical reverse?

Bob

[SonoranWraith]

The ESC can run the motor forward or backward. No mechanics needed.

[Thorsteenster]

Do you have a forward only ESC? You can use a Traxxas Revo transmission and get a shiftable reverse.

[Bob From Downunder]

I have not purchased a ESC unit as yet so thats good info for me. This is my first build so thats why I know know very much - but I'm learning fast thanks to you guys.

Bob

[Thorsteenster]

Yeah as long as you get an ESC made for cars/trucks, it will have reverse.

[Thorsteenster]

I'm planning on building my Volvo as 4WD. For the front axle I'll be trying this:
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=120531
Or buying a German unit already built.

Seeing the pics Fhhhstix posted though, a standard TLT axle looks to bring the front axle width out to match the outer rear tires, so even a slightly narrowed TLT should look pretty good.

After looking at a diff I have, I got to thinking about the link I posted to RCC. This would lock the diff making it a posi rear, or front as the case may be.
So I was looking at the diff parts, and I don't see why the same couldn't be done with the side gears. Cut the axle shaft to length, drill out the splines in a side gear so the axles just slides in and drill/crosspin right behind the back of the gear. When assembled the diff case looks like it should keep the pins in place w/o having to press them in too tightly and you could easily narrow both sides.
I have an extra diff set, I think I may give this a try. I'll have to get a better bit though, or a pilot bit I think they're called, and figure out what size, I should be able to use the TLT hex pin.

[Thorsteenster]

I just ordered a couple bits to try out my above post. If it goes okay I'll start a separate thread.

[SmallHaul]

I just ordered a couple bits to try out my above post. If it goes okay I'll start a separate thread.

Sounds good, please do!

[SmallHaul]

More pics for reference...

Bruder Cab. Unmodified TLT axle on tamiya semi frame. Inside wheel from tamiya dually set used as front wheel:

http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff66/scottmaxxin/fender.jpg

http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff66/scottmaxxin/mfront.jpg

[Thorsteenster]

Wow, that looks about, if not, perfect. I had thought Bruder cabs were narrower than Tamiya's, but I guess not all.

[FreddyGearDrive]

Scott,if you mill the hexs (thinner) & do a little grindin on the rim.You can bring the wheels in even closer. But be careful,if you go to much,you'll be into the tierod arm. It really makes a difference.
FGD

[CustomRCmodels]

SmallHaul, This is the diff between stock & rc channels narrowed.
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn50/FreddyGearDrive/freddys%20best/dumppics4224.jpg
Now carson & rc channel.
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn50/FreddyGearDrive/freddys%20best/dumppics4225.jpg
With these two you can run super singles w/out dickin around.
Now TLT.
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn50/FreddyGearDrive/freddys%20best/dumppics4223.jpg
F-350.
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn50/FreddyGearDrive/freddys%20best/dumppics4222.jpg
This will give you the low down in a row.
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn50/FreddyGearDrive/freddys%20best/dumppics4228.jpg
Hope this helps.
FGD

since I just came across this thread again and it’s a sticky one ,
I figured I add this here :
Example of the use of a TLT-1 axle in one of my 6WD projects:
http://customrcmodels.com/Trucks/new_6wd_project.htm (http://customrcmodels.com/Trucks/new_6wd_project.htm)

[Snochaser]

BINGO!That's the exact order.
SmallHaul,the carson front diff is like $200.:eek:
For the same price you can get this.
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn50/FreddyGearDrive/freddys%20best/dumppics4229.jpg
But! Now you have to buy a set of semi rear diffs to match the front. The rear diff that comes w/the front is two wide for semi. But you can't beat the look of these babies.
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn50/FreddyGearDrive/freddys%20best/dumppics4076.jpg
The carson is like 2mm narrower than rc/channel.
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn50/FreddyGearDrive/freddys%20best/dumppics4230.jpg
The carson I was purchasing from pmd. But surf a little & you can pick them up a lot cheaper.
Hope this helps!
FGD

So are these Carson axles?

[FreddyGearDrive]

Snochaser,The aluminium one are R/C Channels.The plastic one is the carson.

[Snochaser]

Thanks FGD!!

[Snochaser]

Can a RC channel front drive/steer axle be turned into a dual-output?

[gun]

that rc channel axle sure has the right look !!!

[gun]

can some one tell me what to use on the input shaft for an axial trans. that im using for a transfer case to go to 5mm so i can build my drive shafts? the shaft on the axial tranny is small and threaded i guess i should cut it off and grind a flat end on it?

[Snochaser]

What mud flap holders was Freddy using in the above picture, anyone know?

[gun]

What mud flap holders was Freddy using in the above picture, anyone know?

that doesnt help me any! :p:p but those hangers are cool as **** id like a set too

[fhhhstix]

can some one tell me what to use on the input shaft for an axial trans. that im using for a transfer case to go to 5mm so i can build my drive shafts? the shaft on the axial tranny is small and threaded i guess i should cut it off and grind a flat end on it?

Just like you said Shane cut it off and grind a flat.;)

What mud flap holders was Freddy using in the above picture, anyone know?

Those are stock king Hauler mud flap brackets with springs so they work like the real mud flap brackets.

Travis

[gun]

thanks Travis ! :D

[Snochaser]

L...I...B.... Lurn sumthin new everday! Sun

[Snochaser]

Just like you said Shane cut it off and grind a flat.;)



Those are stock king Hauler mud flap brackets with springs so they work like the real mud flap brackets.

Travis

See...Gun, you didn't know you wanted to know that now didja.:D.

Ben

[uk trucker]

thanks for posting the info on this thread, its helped me a lot. I'm making a 6X6 tipper (in UK terms)
Already got a Carson Truck Puller motor so dont need a reduction box. Instead I'm making a drop down gearbox using two of the big gears out of two spare Electrifly GD gearboxes, ( GD600 I think).
We will see how it goes!

[Scottyboy436]

How wide is the front drive axle? And would a axial axle fit?

[WhiteWolf McBride]

This was asked of one of the axle brands, but not answered:

What about a 'throughput' front axle, like the forward unit on the dual-rear-axle semi's. Does no-one make a simple off-the-shelf unit yet, instead of us having to buy ones with metal casings at $150 and up?

I know Joe and Willy DIY'd them a while back, but isn't anyone even making a ~kit~ for those of us with minimal tools?

Only Robbe really makes one 'off-the-shelf', and I honestly don't like their axles when compared to Tamiya ones. Dislike 'em enough to ditch my 8x8 'Panther' chassis if I can do it with Tamiya parts (and they AIN'T cheap)

So, guys... is there a way for us Neanderthals?

[fhhhstix]

This was asked of one of the axle brands, but not answered:

What about a 'throughput' front axle, like the forward unit on the dual-rear-axle semi's. Does no-one make a simple off-the-shelf unit yet, instead of us having to buy ones with metal casings at $150 and up?

I know Joe and Willy DIY'd them a while back, but isn't anyone even making a ~kit~ for those of us with minimal tools?

Only Robbe really makes one 'off-the-shelf', and I honestly don't like their axles when compared to Tamiya ones. Dislike 'em enough to ditch my 8x8 'Panther' chassis if I can do it with Tamiya parts (and they AIN'T cheap)

So, guys... is there a way for us Neanderthals?

It is not that hard. Buy a TLT axle Kit, extra pinion, and axle housings. Then just trim the two pinion halves to fit together. This has been done in a few threads here on the forum. All you will need for tooling is the normal tools to assemble an axle and a hobby knife for the mods to the axle housing.

Here is a pic of a set of TLT's used that way. He is using them as steerable rear axles but it is still exactly the same.

http://i928.photobucket.com/albums/ad125/snochaser/2011-03-25_20-54-25_735.jpg

Travis

[WhiteWolf McBride]

Travis: (or whomever has done this, like Willy & Joe)

What about the flanges on the axle casing? Do the casing halves that are being used have the flange/edge that overlaps (malke side?), or the other one? I ask as if it needs removal, it can be used as an alignment assist, right?

As for 'alignment', to assure that the 'throughput' pumpkin matches with the central piece, and the gear-mesh inside is ok, you just bore out the screw-holes (as you'll either have two bottoms with no access, or two tops with no thread to grab), and use long bolts and nuts instead, and it'll line up sufficiently well?

If no-one has done a good step-by-step, mebbe I should do one when I do it, for the archives and all that, hm? If there is one, this is a ~great~ place to put the link to it.

And lastly: how well do the TLT & Semi axles compare width-wise (assuming the same rims/tires all around) and gear-ratio-wise? I don't want a nasty issue with a semi rear end, mismatched to a TLT front (Can you put the gear-guts from one into the other and vice-versa to maintain ratio?)

Sorry for all the questions, but when I get onto sommat thats been bugging me for years, I tend to run with it.

WhiteWolf

[fhhhstix]

Travis: (or whomever has done this, like Willy & Joe)

What about the flanges on the axle casing? Do the casing halves that are being used have the flange/edge that overlaps (malke side?), or the other one? I ask as if it needs removal, it can be used as an alignment assist, right?

Yes they are fanged and that is why I said you will need the hobby knife. Only one flange needs cut off the other will be for alignment.

As for 'alignment', to assure that the 'throughput' pumpkin matches with the central piece, and the gear-mesh inside is ok, you just bore out the screw-holes (as you'll either have two bottoms with no access, or two tops with no thread to grab), and use long bolts and nuts instead, and it'll line up sufficiently well?

You will be using two identical pieces molded with the same holes so alignment will be no issue.

If no-one has done a good step-by-step, mebbe I should do one when I do it, for the archives and all that, hm? If there is one, this is a ~great~ place to put the link to it.

It is a simple mod and you are only trimming one piece to make it so there is not much to show.

And lastly: how well do the TLT & Semi axles compare width-wise (assuming the same rims/tires all around) and gear-ratio-wise? I don't want a nasty issue with a semi rear end, mismatched to a TLT front (Can you put the gear-guts from one into the other and vice-versa to maintain ratio?)

The TLT, tractor truck, high lift, cc01, and cr01 all use the same gears. With the same rims on a TLT and a semi axle the TLT will be a lot wider. You will have to be creative to get the offsets of the rims to work.

Sorry for all the questions, but when I get onto sommat thats been bugging me for years, I tend to run with it.

WhiteWolf


Travis

[CustomRCmodels]

Travis: (or whomever has done this, like Willy & Joe)

What about the flanges on the axle casing? Do the casing halves that are being used have the flange/edge that overlaps (malke side?), or the other one? I ask as if it needs removal, it can be used as an alignment assist, right?

As for 'alignment', to assure that the 'throughput' pumpkin matches with the central piece, and the gear-mesh inside is ok, you just bore out the screw-holes (as you'll either have two bottoms with no access, or two tops with no thread to grab), and use long bolts and nuts instead, and it'll line up sufficiently well?

WhiteWolf

No cutting required . You just use the male housing (no lip ) part from a straight input/output rear axle and replace that with the non-input/output housing on the TLT-1 axle . Plain simple bolt on .

[fhhhstix]

No cutting required . You just use the male housing (no lip ) part from a straight input/output rear axle and replace that with the non-input/output housing on the TLT-1 axle . Plain simple bolt on .

You right Willy I was just giving the option to do it from available parts from a place like tower hobbies who doesn't carry the semi axle housings. But you right if you have the other housing there is no mod needed just bolt it together.

Travis

[CustomRCmodels]

Travis: (or whomever has done this, like Willy & Joe)


And lastly: how well do the TLT & Semi axles compare width-wise (assuming the same rims/tires all around)
WhiteWolf

As for the rim-offset , lock at my Krupp ( at the bottom of this page )
You use the rear inner rims as front rims
http://www.customrcmodels.com/Tanks/id86.htm

[WhiteWolf McBride]

Willy:

My imagination, or is the front actually a little narrower than the outer rear axles? As I've got a semy with stock rear width, it'll help me tell if the deed
is not only do-able, but would look decent enough under the body...

Thanks for the assistance,
WhiteWolf

[CustomRCmodels]

You right Willy I was just giving the option to do it from available parts from a place like tower hobbies who doesn't carry the semi axle housings. But you right if you have the other housing there is no mod needed just bolt it together.

Travis

If you get 2x TLT-1 axles and 2x center axles ( from a 3 axle truck ) , then you have all the parts for the swap without having to purchase the extra axle housing ( a-parts 0005467 + pinion-gear ) , since then you just use the left over housing half from one TLT-1 axle and fit that as last rear axle . In that case you also would have to do some cutting , but not that much , to fit it together .

[CustomRCmodels]

Willy:

My imagination, or is the front actually a little narrower than the outer rear axles? As I've got a semy with stock rear width, it'll help me tell if the deed
is not only do-able, but would look decent enough under the body...

Thanks for the assistance,
WhiteWolf

The fronts line up with the outer rears . Its just an illusion from the angle how that photo was taken . For a better comparison here with a King Hauler body :
all-wheel-drive rig , but with bigger and wider tires .
Therefore the front tires stick out from the fenders ( and the rear is much wider as stock )
http://customrcmodels.com/Trucks/new_6wd_project.htm (http://customrcmodels.com/Trucks/new_6wd_project.htm)
with stock semi-rims and tires they would be just covered by the fenders

here is a good photo from Travis's Mack :
http://i574.photobucket.com/albums/ss185/brokenb4/Mack%20and%20dump%20trailer/IM000414.jpg

[SmallHaul]

Is there a driven front driven axle with remote locking diff and complete disconnect? Or are they all open and locked only?

I have setup some wedico metal axles that can do this and it is a nice feature.

[egronvold]

Is there a driven front driven axle with remote locking diff and complete disconnect? Or are they all open and locked only?

I have setup some wedico metal axles that can do this and it is a nice feature.

Der Getriebedoktor refurbish Tamiya axles. A big pluss is that you don't have to buy new rear axles, since they have the same gear ratio.

If you want to spend som money, these are awesome: http://www.wtbcar.com/shopping/index.php?route=product/product&keyword=6x6&category_id=20&product_id=192

[SmallHaul]

Der Getriebedoktor refurbish Tamiya axles. A big pluss is that you don't have to buy new rear axles, since they have the same gear ratio.

If you want to spend som money, these are awesome: http://www.wtbcar.com/shopping/index.php?route=product/product&keyword=6x6&category_id=20&product_id=192

So both of these axles have 3 positions...locked diff, open diff and disconnect front axle from being driven?

I don't really see how the guy that mods the tamiya axles could completely disconnect the front axle from being driven/powered? I have it bookmarked on how to to lock and unlock the diff.

The second link looks like a Lesu axle (maybe re-branded?) and going by the photos i have found it looks like it just locks and unlocks the diff and does not completely disconnect the front axle from being driven.

It would be nice if a tamiya tlt axle could be converted to work the way that i want it to.

[egronvold]

Then you need at transfer with disconnect: http://www.veroma-modellbau.eu/shop/lkw/lkw-antriebstechnik/getriebe/verteilergetriebe/verteilergetriebe-1.html

[SmallHaul]

Then you need at transfer with disconnect: http://www.veroma-modellbau.eu/shop/lkw/lkw-antriebstechnik/getriebe/verteilergetriebe/verteilergetriebe-1.html


Nice tranfer case. Thanks Egronvold.

[fhhhstix]

Well here is my experience with a disconnect for the front axle. I have a dump truck with a TLT for a front axle and an RC4WD 3 speed. The 3 speed is only rear output in 2nd and 3rd gear. In first gear it engages the front axle. Steering with a load sucks in 2nd and 3rd with having to push the front axle around turning the diff and drive shaft (this is where the disconnect in the axle would come in handy like Small Haul mentioned). So I find myself driving around in first most of the time. From then on after building that truck I just made them full time all-wheel drive.

[SmallHaul]

Well here is my experience with a disconnect for the front axle. I have a dump truck with a TLT for a front axle and an RC4WD 3 speed. The 3 speed is only rear output in 2nd and 3rd gear. In first gear it engages the front axle. Steering with a load sucks in 2nd and 3rd with having to push the front axle around turning the diff and drive shaft (this is where the disconnect in the axle would come in handy like Small Haul mentioned). So I find myself driving around in first most of the time. From then on after building that truck I just made them full time all-wheel drive.

Agree on all accounts and good informative post. That is cool that the rc4wd 3 speed disconnects the front axle in first. Do you think it is as strong as the stock tamiya trans?

I guess a compromise would be a disconnect trans or transfer case and a lockable front axle.

Does anyone have first hand experience with the lockable Lesu front axle? Is it durable and function well?

[fhhhstix]

Agree on all accounts and good informative post. That is cool that the rc4wd 3 speed disconnects the front axle in first. Do you think it is as strong as the stock tamiya trans?

I guess a compromise would be a disconnect trans or transfer case and a lockable front axle.

Does anyone have first hand experience with the lockable Lesu front axle? Is it durable and function well?

It is good trans and just to be clear it is only disconected in 2nd 3rd. 1st is the only gear that awd. One thing thouh it is best to open up the trans and take out the shift springs and relye on the servo to hold each gear as the springs are way to stiff. It take alll a high torque servo has to shift it. Unlike a tamiya 3 speed you can shift with your finger you can't do that with the RC4WD 3 speed.

[SmallHaul]

Great info Travis, Thank You.

[skeeter]

Thanks folks for much useful information. I as well was debating placing a powered axle on the front of my King Hauler. I bought it used, & plan to hack the sleeper off, & build it into a logging truck. I think the addition of powered steer axle will make it more functional.

[Lubeman55]

Hello Travis, I am a green horn to all of this it is very incredible the work you guys do, I have been looking for information to find a Mack style straight to try and build a 6 x 6 lube fuel RC truck, we just completed the real thing and would love to have a small one, any help would be thankful

Mike