Help with a bandsaw

[Thorsteenster]

I bought one of those $100 Ryobi bandsaws at Home Depot awhile back. I like it, great value for the price, however it's too fast for cutting metal over 1/32 or so. It'll cut 1/16 but not straigh. I saw somewhere sometime ago someone saw someone else somewhere do something to slow his down.
Just wondering if anyone has done, or seen this done, or any ideas on how to. If I can find a relatively easy way to do this it'll make it a dynamite bandsaw.

[modelman]

Thor-If you can adjust the length of your drive belt, you could put a smaller pulley on the motor. This would be a simple way. Installing a slower motor would probably cost more than the original price of the saw.

[mog]

not really i have a little deltat one it's great on AL but i got really fine pic for it and i ues lube with it make it cut way better there is no good way to slow them down and if there was the blades would not take the cutting fores. i ues wax or just wd-40

[grumpygrady]

like has been said a smaller pulley on the motor or make up a jackshaft for it

the better ones have multi groove pulleys to change speed
but i thought you went slow on steel and faster on aluminum to get rid of the chips
will look it up

[grumpygrady]

ok i was wrong { first time for everything i guess} lol

slow speed lots of teeth
is this a direct drive or does it have pulleys?

[Thorsteenster]

I'm not sure honestly, it's in the closet right now but I'm planning on using it here shortly.
I have a bi-metal blade, but thicker metal it want's to go off, too fast from what I've read.
I'll check it out in a bit, if I can get its speed down easily and cheaply, it'll make a nice bandsaw for others on here maybe looking for one.

[modelman]

Thor-I only cut aluminum on my bandsaw and I think they need really good blades to cut steel. If the blade is pushing off the wheels sounds like you are using too much pressure.

[pugs]

I real cheap and flexible way to slow down small 110vac motors is to use a dimmer switch. I have one made up that I use for everything from slowing a filter fan down for noise or changing the heat of a woodburning iron. A simple 4 outlet junction box with a short cord out of it with a dimmer and one dual outlet installed is all it is. Can even setup the outlet so that only one of the plugs is dimmer controlled.

If the blade is pushing off the wheels though, that would indicate improper tension or misalignment of the wheels or guides.

[Thorsteenster]

The dimmer switch sounds interesting, but is it a regular light dimmer? Seems that wouldn't be able to handle a motor.

I'm no bandsawologist, but from what I gathered, the blade moves too fast, which cutting thinner metal somewhat proves to me because then it goes nice and straight.
I did play around with adjusting the blade and double checking setup procedure according to the manual for an hour plus when I went up and got a thinner piece of metal which it cut nice and straight through.
I don't remember the thicknesses, but lets say 1/16 and 1/32.
I'm thinking too I should forget about steel and just cut alu on this, but I would really like to be able to cut 1/16 steel.

[pugs]

Yep, just a regular dimmer, I used the turn knob style. Just be sure and check the amp rating of the dimmer and compare it against the motor you are trying to run.

How many teeth are on the blade you are trying to use on the thin stuff? General rule is you always want 2-3 teeth in contact with the metal at all times, which in really thin stuff is difficult to do some times.

[Thorsteenster]

It's a Rigid blade, I bought two when I bought the band saw. They are 18TPI 3/8 wide. They say for metal, and the picture shows I beam, and I'm only trying to cut sheet! lol

I need to swing by the Depot anyway, I'll have to check out dimmers and give that a try. Whole heaping easier than trying to change pulleys/gearing.

[pugs]

That's probably about the finest blade your going to easily find. Just take your time and maybe try some wood or something as a backup to give the blade something a bit thicker to bite into. If you try to push to fast it will strip teeth, and as soon as that happens more will get stripped and the blade will start to wander.

[Thorsteenster]

Interesting thought with the wood, I happen to have some pieces of 2X8 I may try that.

I was at Home Depot the other day and ceiling fan "dimmers" were only rated at 1.5 amps. I had to look to see how many amps the motor is, and the card said 5. Now in looking at Ryobi's site, it says 2.5.

Either way I'll have to look for something a little more heavier dutier than what HD has.
I found some online that are for controlling multiple ceiling fans rated at 5 amps I think I'll try.

Looking at the schematic for it on Ryobi's site, it's belt drive. Although the motor pulley looks pretty small, I'll have to look at SPDI(?) for a smaller pulley.

[pugs]

These would be 5.5 amps on 110vac
http://www.lowes.com/pd_211634-539-DNG-600PH-DK_4294935637__?productId=1059609&Ntt=dimmer&pl=1&currentURL=/pl_Lighting%2BFans_4294935637__s%3FNtt%3Ddimmer%26 page%3D7
http://www.homedepot.com/Electrical-Dimmers-Switches-Dimmers/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xr5Zbnni/R-100089584/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053
http://www.homedepot.com/Electrical-Dimmers-Switches-Dimmers/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xr5Zbnni/R-100664365/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

I'll see if I can't find mine and get a pic up of it.

[pugs]

Here's what mine looks like, comes in handy for lots of things
http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/zz317/JPMach/Misc/DSCN0479.jpg

[Thorsteenster]

Yeah, I like that. I'd rather get one in store and put together something like you got there.
I wonder if the links to Home Depot have typos on the amp ratings, should be 1.5 instead of 15? I looked all over the electrical and lighting areas and only found the 1.5 units.
I'll have to look again, and try a different location.
I'm really digging that box.

[trucker n]

a 600watt dimmer is good for 5 amps should be fine for that motor

[mazdaparts]

I have a central hardware (Harbor freight model) bandsaw. It has 3 wheels, 12" throat, and a speed controlled motor. The only problem I have is the blades are hard to find. And you can only use the small blades. Not many choice for TPI, but it does work pretty good on small and thin stuff. I did resaw a 2x4 to make a shim for something without any problems.

[Bodyman]

use cauction on the dimmer for a motor. the dimmer will reduce the volts going to a
motor which will slow the motor, but with electrical, volts goes down,amps go up
and you could be overamping the motor. so if you do this get a amp meter
and check. over amperage a motor will burn it out over time.

[TheMachinist]

I have a central hardware (Harbor freight model) bandsaw. It has 3 wheels, 12" throat, and a speed controlled motor. The only problem I have is the blades are hard to find. And you can only use the small blades. Not many choice for TPI, but it does work pretty good on small and thin stuff. I did resaw a 2x4 to make a shim for something without any problems.

My shop uses Thomas Skinner for our saw blades and we have a machine that takes an odd size so they custom make blades for us. At the same cost as an standard blade. The number of teeth and set profile is also customizable. You could also try Doallsawing.com Although they are a bit more money.

[mazdaparts]

Thanks

[tinkertrucker]

Hi,
Had the same problem. Found a company "Ellis Mfg / of WI.
They had a blade configuration that fixed my problem.
I work with Aluminum mostly -- 3/4" thickest so far
Good Luck
Tinkertrucker

[Bellien]

Lot's of good advice here on almost exactly the same question:

http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=88790

[Msmaddie]

Im sorry if some has said this already. I bought a 9 inch Ryobi bandsaw last night. The mastercraft I bought had a horrible selection for blades. Anyway I put a 18tpi blade on it. Cuts through aluminum just beautifully. Nice and straight. Was a little rough but a few seconds with the dremel it was smoothed right out.

Hope this helps.

[FreddyGearDrive]

Just a stupid question,but why do you guys use a band saw?
A scroll saw is way better for what we do.
W/a scroll you can make long cuts & also cut out little parts.
The only difference is you can walk away from a band while it cuts,but best hope it cuts where it's spoda.
Just a suggestion,try coating the blade with bee's wax.it'll cut down on the side tracking. Although,you have to coat it every 30 seconds or so.But it makes a HUGE difference in how straight the blade tracks.
Just what I've learned since being in this hobby.
FGD

[doodlebug]

Are you guy's talking about this type of band saw? http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100593258/h_d2/ProductDisplay?selectedCatgry=SEARCH+ALL&jspStoreDir=hdus&catalogId=10053&navFlow=3&keyword=ryobi+bandsaw&Ntpc=1&langId=-1&Nu=P_PARENT_ID&storeId=10051&Ntpr=1&ddkey=Search

later, Neil.

[Smokin Joe]

I use router speed controls on my power tools as needed. They are very well built and consist of a small control box with the controller, 4ft male cord and 4ft female cord.
I buy mine at Harbour Freight. Never had a problem.

Joe

[siuvinson]

Just a stupid question,but why do you guys use a band saw?
A scroll saw is way better for what we do.
W/a scroll you can make long cuts & also cut out little parts.
The only difference is you can walk away from a band while it cuts,but best hope it cuts where it's spoda.
Just a suggestion,try coating the blade with bee's wax.it'll cut down on the side tracking. Although,you have to coat it every 30 seconds or so.But it makes a HUGE difference in how straight the blade tracks.
Just what I've learned since being in this hobby.
FGD

fgd what blades do you like to use on your scroll saw? And is your saw variable speed, and if so what speed do you use when cutting?

[FreddyGearDrive]

fgd what blades do you like to use on your scroll saw? And is your saw variable speed, and if so what speed do you use when cutting?

For thick metal I use a course blade(low #of teeth per inch),for thin a fine or high # per inch. & variable speed really helps.
Two things to remember when cutting a metal w/a scroll is never force feed it & don't let the blade get hot.
FGD

[Msmaddie]

That's good to know Freddy. I went with the bandsaw cause the guy that sold me the first bandsaw said I couldn't get metal blades for a scroll saw. I still think a bandsaw works well for certain cuts but its horrible for others. I guess I'm buying a scroll saw after work today. But I think I'm going to get a bigger purse so I can wack the sales guy as well lol.

[9W Monighan]

If you're cutting aluminum you can use regular carbon steel blades (raker flex back). Just watch the Surface Feet Per Minute. I've been using them to cut aluminum extrusions for 30yrs because their way cheaper than the good ones and they both last about the same for wht I'm doing. I run them on a wood cutting Powermatic bandsaw size: 3/4x6tpi Raker Flexback. On my Delta 14'' saws I use a narrower blade: 3/8''x.032 x 10tpi Raker. I get good results with them until the metal work hardens from the Anodized finish but that doesn't pertain to our hobby. You can cut thin steel with a carbon blade just run slower but it won't last very long. But for steel use a Bi-metal blade.I have a Lennox Diemaster on one of my big Powermatic bandsaws. I've had it on there for years! One of the best bandsaw blades I've ever used. I think it is a "Wavey Set" 18TPI I've used it to cut steel up to 2'' thick in past and down to 16ga. Works for brass too. I keep it around 110fpm on steel. Some blades obviously cant be used on a home shop bandsaw but if you can find a saw shop nearby,they can make up the blade you desire any length.
Here is a link to their site. Check out the blade selector too:
http://www.lenoxtools.com/Pages/Category.aspx?category=Bi-Metal

[Terry]

I know this post is old, but reading it reminded me of a variable power unit that I use for my router. These are very good and hold up to a Porter Cable 690 router with no problem.

http://woodworker.com/router-speed-control-mssu-821-539.asp?search=variable%20power%20supply&searchmode=2