He is at it again! 1:50 Dozer Conversion

[Rvjimd]

Well, here I go again! Bought a new dozer and it went directly to the bench.

Man, this is really TINY!

http://i1291.photobucket.com/albums/b554/Slotcarjim/3a49df00c6a9c273a15cc7d3f40f057c_zps2326127e.jpg

Machined off two out of three teeth on a 21 t pinion to drive the tracks.

http://i1291.photobucket.com/albums/b554/Slotcarjim/f4c562cf587f6c6f4a54872507b15cc1_zps8fee73a9.jpg

I'm gona have to pull a scraper or something just to find space for a battery and RX!

Jim

[SmallHaul]

Go Jim!

This rx is 14mm wide:

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__11972__OrangeRx_R410_Spektrum_DSM2_Compatible_4C h_2_4Ghz_Receiver.html

Hey, i spy a ...a 1/32 slotcar crown gear in one photo..:D

[Rvjimd]

Slot car crown gear? What? Where? That was supposed to be top secret!:D

(It pays to have a jillion hobbies, I find all sort of small parts from the others to use in my conversion attempts!)

Jim

[Espeefan]

Wow, that is a sharp looking model! This will be very interesting to watch. I don't think I've ever seen a documented thread on RC'ing a 1/50 scale diecast model. Very cool.

[Stuff]

wow! never even thought of slot car parts! man the things that just jump at you when you finally see them!!

[Rvjimd]

Well, I kept at it and got it moving but the poor thing got hacked up way more than I wanted. I learned from the process, like you can't convert any darn thing you want you dern fool!

There is no room for a battery or RX. I thought about pulling a scrapper Nd hiding that stuff in the scrapper box, but that doesn't really fit with the sand and coal barge hauling setup I have going.

Here is the bench test video.

http://youtu.be/tNZDnqNWHHM

Jim

[doodlebug]

Pull 2 scrapers, and fill 1 with batteries & fake dirt!
Cheers, Neil.

[SmallHaul]

Very cool. It really puts it into perspective when you lower the blade with your finger.:)

[Rvjimd]

I am gona stew on it for a day or two and see if I can come up with any good ideas on stowing the battery and RX. I would like to add a blade control as well, won't be to practical without that. I have even thought about some form of a cam on the blade to lift the blade when backing up and drop it going forward. There is absolutely no more room in the engine compartment for a third servo.

Back to making the big gear in the dragline go around. I have room for the fifth servo there, just trying to figure out how to make it work from the TX point of view.

Jim

[FlyingBeagle]

You should look into the lipo packs for the micro helicopters. They have them from

120MAH http://www.hobbypartz.com/77p-minilipo-120mah-15c-1s1p.html

to

350 mah http://www.hobbypartz.com/77p-minilipo-350mah-15c-1s1p.html

These are real cheap so you could buy several even if you had to change them out more often. I dont think you can get more power in a smaller package.

[Espeefan]

That's awesome! Perhaps you could build a cab and hide some components inside it?

[Rvjimd]

Thanks for looking, and for the tips. I am sort of looking for a bit larger style dozer in 1:50 scale. I'm thinking a high drive model with a cab so I will have more room to work. What I really need it to see one in person so I can pick a good donor dozer. I have seen one or two, but each with problems that keep me from buying one.

I do have some small heli packs. I might just saddle them on somehow and get the poor thing moving until the new dozer comes along. Trouble with me, is since I can't see how I'm ever gona get the blade on it, and working, I just sort of give up on it.:o

Jim

[Izzy]

Give it a break - sit it on the shelf - and think on it - give the ol gray matter time to crunch it through.

I hear pager motors can make nice little screw drives.

[Rvjimd]

My solution was to go bigger! Here is a short video of my 1/16 (seems small to be called 1/16) spec cast die cast dozer. Used micro servos with a pinion pressed on the top spline and slot it crown gears.

http://youtu.be/fu1EAJIgZzo

Jim

[RCP57]

Where did you get the model? Looks like a really great conversion.

[Rvjimd]

There is a local die cast place here in Des Moines that carries mostly Ag stuff but they always have some construction stuff also.

Jim

[RCP57]

What/who makes is it?

[Espeefan]

Wow, that's a nice conversion! It runs really smooth too. Any photos that you could share of the model? I wonder how well the tracks will hold up, or if they will clog with dirt.

[Rvjimd]

I just got it going and expect I'll have some adjustments to make before long. I also don't have the blade hooked up yet and I should be able to get that working as well.

The tracks are going to be trouble. Ther roll really nice and free, but anything in the links causes trouble. I have a few ideas, but I'm going to finish the blade control first. It may become more of a clean surface machine if I have too much trouble with the tracks. The biggest problem is the scale. Seems like small grains of sand not only get into the links and clog up when the sprocket comes around, but the treads also bind up. I may try to clean out some of the paint where it is real tight, but that is on the back burner for now.

I'll get some photos of the details of the drive system in a day or so...

Jim

[SmallHaul]

Jim, your 1/16 conversion runs nice. Nice job.

On my cable excavator i had to "sharpen" the cups between each tooth so that basically just about a knife blades width actually touches the tracks so that dirt doesn't bind it up.

[Rvjimd]

Scott,

Ya, I remember you telling me that about the cog wheels, I'm probably going to try that at some point.

Rcp, the machine is made by SpecCast. Is is labeled as 1/16 scale, Oliver OC-12 crawler with blade. They make a version without the blade for about $5 less. That one comes with an umbrella.

Here is a picture of the SECOND one I just bought today along with a few build pictures I took.

http://youtu.be/zWuuw7ka4qE

Jim

[Rvjimd]

Scott,

Do you have a pic of the knife edge on the cog wheels? When I read the last post, I made me pause. I would have shaved off the points? Now I'm confused...:confused:

Jim

[Rvjimd]

Got the blade control working. I'm happy with the overall function of blade and tracks. I need to see if I can find some metal crown gears to use in place of the plastic slot.it crowns, they are not going to take the abuse.

And I need an operator! Are there 1:16 scale figures that would work for me as an operator? Would I find something like that at walmart or a toy store?

http://youtu.be/JG2plmeSXEo

Jim

[SmallHaul]

It runs great Jim, good job.

Bruder people are 1/16 and look ok.

i tried to take pictures of the drive sprocket teeth last night and it just doesn't show how i modified them.

Give me a call today and i'll try to explain it better on the phone.

[kaptain Jack]

This is great, is the blade hydraulic?

[Rvjimd]

Jack,

No, everything is micro servo. The blade lift servo just pokes out the right side where a standard one leg servo horn is attached to the blade frame with a short piece of wire. I'll get some more detail pics eventually, once I get it all refined and work out some bugs.

I'm putting on two new pinnion gears this morning, the first ones I made too thin and they would not stay aligned good enough. Got a second pair and made them a bit taller.

Jim

[TRUCKMAKER]

Jim, I was searching for stuff on the forum and found this thread, didn't know if you've seen it, check out the first post!
http://www.rctruckandconstruction.com/showthread.php?t=1491&highlight=1%2F25+scale+truck+forums.

[Rvjimd]

Ya, I had seen the video once before. The more I work with the ginger stuff, the more I like it. And the 1/16 STILL seems small even after working on some 1:50 stuff!

Here is the latest video of my 1:16 dozer. I have switched over to gear motors for the drives. I'm installing a wedge now to hold the motor and pinion up against the crown gears. I am still searching for replacement crown gears. I'm using the blue slot.it crowns now I think they are 24 or 26 tooth,but the plastic is not going to hold up.

http://youtu.be/1VZZfcgRaB4

Jim

[TRUCKMAKER]

Looks like it works great, seems to be smooth but sounds like gears jumping towards the end, or is that just normal track noise? Anyway nice job!

[Rvjimd]

Truck maker,

That was probably the pinion slipping on the plastic crown gear. I'm in the middle of yet another version. I'm making the rear end of the chassis out of aluminum angle stock so I can position the two drive motors where I want them and I'm using two steel pinions instead of one steel and one plastic crown.

Film at eleven! ;)

Jim

[modelman]

Really nice work on the conversion jim- you said you are making more changes so this should be a fine model when completed. Any updates on the wooden crane with the clamshell?

[Rvjimd]

Tom,

Thanks for the comments. I hadn't heard from you in a while, wondered how you were getting along. We are coming to Florence in a few days to check on the boat.

I haven't done anything to the wood crane since we got back from PA. I still need to paint it and I want to rebuild the cab. I slapped on a balsa cab but it needs to look better than it turned out. :o

I ordered some stronger versions of the gear motors that should make the dozer work really good. I have a few more details to take care of but I basically have the aluminum rear end finished and tested it yesterday. Works good but the low power motors I have on it no are just a bit to weak and they stall just about when it should start to slide a track.

I also ordered some new speed controls that I hope are smaller than the HK xcar 45 ones that I'm now using. They are just big enough that it is hard to cram it all under the hood.

Here is a pic of the chassis mod.

http://i1291.photobucket.com/albums/b554/Slotcarjim/67298bd3f2c01c47a78189d1ba5d0bc7_zps75086390.jpg

Jim

[john]

hi im new to this, been a gm mechanic for a few years now, not sure what kind of voltage your looking for but some of our remotes use a 12volt battery smaller then a AAA they last for an average of two years running a lcd display, if it helps for your size restrictions, also it you need lower voltage for your reciever you can drop the voltage with a diode or several each diode will give you roughly .5 volt reduction

[Rvjimd]

Hi John, welcome to the forum! I'm honored that you pick my thread for your first post!

The way it usually turns out, like on my dozer, you need at least one speed controller, which provides the voltage to a typical DC motor. The speed controllers also provide 5 volts for the radio reciever which will I turn power any servo motors plugged into the reciever.

Trouble I'm having is that with the newer style brushless motors, the older style brushed motor controllers are harder to find in the smaller sizes. I DID manage to find some in china, so if they turn out like I hope they will solve my space issue.

As for battery power, the latest and greatest is LiPo, which has great power density. They can be a bit sensitive to charging/discharging and can be damaged if not treated right. One of the functions available on most speed controllers is low battery voltage cutoff, so the controller shuts down the output to the drive motor before the voltage dros below a threshold that would damage the battery.

Jim

[modelman]

Mods look good jim, but I can see you need larger gearmotors for a dozer this size. I'm sure you will get it right.

[john]

thanks for the info, i always wondered about the esc. your project looks great by the way, im used to building hot rods an thought id try something different im used to running d7 cats and 320 trackhoes from farm experience. started my first rc conversion on a jd 4x4 with duals but i used a damaged ford 150 rc truck for the controller and reciever only 2 channel but it did the job, but the next project is a cat hoping to either find d7 17a or simular. i have alot of mill experience. would you if you were to build another 1/50 scale use two motors or make a diff and have brake steering. i going to build a few bigger ones adn learn more about the electronics before tackling a small model, thanks again for showing your talent.

[Rvjimd]

John,

Your diff and brake question is a good one! I don't know for sure, but the guys scratch building the bigger tracked machines are all using two motors I think? I would guess that getting the brakes to work as smoothly and easily as using two motors would be harder than the simple two motor setup.

As you prowl around here on the site you will figure out the handful of guys with the bigger scratch machines and they should have a good answer.

Jim

[Rvjimd]

Tom,

I ordered three more sets of motors. They make three different versions of the motor in that size. I think there is going to be at least one that should work. What I have now is almost strong enough. On the bench, they feel real strong, but they need just a bit more grunt.

I think one set is a bit higher rpm and higher stall torque, so I'm hoping I can re gear for the rpm and get about what I need for speed and torque.

Jim

[john]

ya your right, i had the idea of one soleniod sliding a pin either left or right to lock into the drive sprocket to positive lock, but it would not be as smooth as the two motors, thanks again, i dont know many people on here if i need a hand with the esc can i ask apon you?

[SmallHaul]

Jim,
You could always use the control board out of a cheap but powerful servo to use as a speed controller with smooth forward to reverse action.

You would have to add resisters to the servo board to give you "center" just like converting one for continuous rotation.

i am sure the control board in this servo could feed up to 2 amps to a motor and i doubt you would even draw 2 amps.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__6221__Towerpro_MG996R_10kg_Servo_55g_10kg_20sec. html?gclid=CLqToNTWwbkCFc07OgodjU8Alg

[SmallHaul]

Here is a nice small forward & reverse esc:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ESC-20A-Brushed-Reverse-Motor-Speed-Controller-1-16-1-18-CAR-Boat-BRAKE-OFF-/180895241638?hash=item2a1e3255a6&vxp=mtr

[john]

small haul can i ask what you my think is a dumb question, but on the ebay page it says break off? i google searching got alot to read up on tonight haha

[Rvjimd]

Scott,

I think that is what I ordered! Oh, on a side note, do you have a build thread on one of your tonka trucks? I have a semi truck tractor that I want to convert. How did you do the steering and fwd?

John,

The speed controls sometimes have circuit in them that provide a brake function when you let up on the throttle. Something like that is usefull for a race car so when you dive into a corner and let up ub the throttle, it provides a bit of brake effect. This cam be programmable depending on the ESC.

Jim

[SmallHaul]

small haul can i ask what you my think is a dumb question, but on the ebay page it says break off? i google searching got alot to read up on tonight haha

John, i wondered the same thing when i read that and messaged the seller to clarify if it has forward and reverse. He hasn't answered yet though.

Very good question actually.

[SmallHaul]

Scott,

I think that is what I ordered! Oh, on a side note, do you have a build thread on one of your tonka trucks? I have a semi truck tractor that I want to convert. How did you do the steering and fwd?

John,

The speed controls sometimes have circuit in them that provide a brake function when you let up on the throttle. Something like that is usefull for a race car so when you dive into a corner and let up ub the throttle, it provides a bit of brake effect. This cam be programmable depending on the ESC.

Jim

Ha! We both posted at the same time. i am curious to hear how it works when you get it.

[john]

I was wondering if that's what it ment thank you both! I ordered one as well. Hoping this was a good idea joining this form hahah I'm getting to many awsome info an ideas!! I found a few decent diecast models on eBay. So with that esc any recomandations for radios or brands? I'm hoping for a 4 channel but is it worth spending more for a 6 channel in case of adding a winch or a scraper in the future?

[Rvjimd]

Here is a short video and pictures of the blade lift on the die cast dozer. Pretty simple setup. Made an aluminum extension for the servo horn. The 2-56 threaded rod is screwed into the blade support frame.

http://youtu.be/cwbXnWAz1Hs

Jim

[john]

very nice!!

[ptebbe]

Amazing project. I don't know how you guys come up with these things
PT

[Rvjimd]

Scott,

Here is a picture of one of the drive cog wheels on the dozer. Did you simply bevel the inside surface, starting at the cup and making it pointed toward the points. Sort of trying to get the cogs to slice or cut the dirt when it comes into the driver? Also, do I want the cup to be more narrow so that there is not so much surface to trap something in the cup between it and the tread?

http://i1291.photobucket.com/albums/b554/Slotcarjim/dbeaa30f56d8be49773216578f283692_zpsa79422e7.jpg

I had a thought, don't know how well it would work out. What about putting little pieces of low density foam into each square hole of the track chain so debris can not get in?

Jim

[john]

just a thought, wouldnt the foam take alot of power to turn the track? on my 450 case with street pads there are holes on top of where the sprocket tooth would be allowing the tooth to just push the dirt out .. Not sure i you want small holes in your track or if it would even help in that scale. Just throwing an idea out there. i looked at the first tracks pics you posted and it looks like the track frame covers most of the track on ground but i couldnt see if dirt falls from the top of track to the gap from the track frame to the sprocket? my case has a removible rail cleaner, it just a piece of hardened steel that sheers off the bigger pieces. hope you get it going.

[SmallHaul]

Jim, see where the dirt gets compacted between the teeth there, i am calling that a "pocket" and what i do is make that pocket a steep ramp down away from the the side that faces out. So, looking at the drive wheel from the outside you would not see that it has been modified but, if you looked from the backside you would see that the pocket has been sharpen like a serrated knife. Being just soft pot metal though, i would not make the edge too sharp or the drive wheel might wear out very quickly.

Hopefully if you look closely to this photo you can see how i cut a steep ramp into the pocket and just a sharp edge actually touches the drive chain.

http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff66/scottmaxxin/IMG_5120_zpsc2e92adf.jpg (http://s240.photobucket.com/user/scottmaxxin/media/IMG_5120_zpsc2e92adf.jpg.html)

[Rvjimd]

Thanks John. I was going to edit the post and ask for other ideas.

I like the thru hole idea, make sense. I'll have to look at them to see.how that might go.

I have some low density foam that I thought would crush real easy as it turns thru the sprockets. I have just enough wear on them now that the tension would not be that much. I think it would be hard to keep it in place..

Jim

[SmallHaul]

i circled the cut/angled pocket.

http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff66/scottmaxxin/Cutpocket_zps44def64a.jpg (http://s240.photobucket.com/user/scottmaxxin/media/Cutpocket_zps44def64a.jpg.html)

[Rvjimd]

Cool, that is what I was thinking.

I'm still trying different motor and battery combinations. With the speed controllers I can easily fit two 500 - 3 cell lips under the hood. I hope the ESC's don't smoke:p

Jim

[john]

small haul thats the drive sprocket? you beveled the teeth on it it looks like? on both sides or just one side of the sprocket? so does that push dirt out or crunch it? good idea

[john]

smokes not good unless it out the pipe eh lol. hey either of you played with smoke generators? think it would be hard to build one from scratch?

[Rvjimd]

Motor question for everybody...

With these mini gear motors I'm using they list the amps @6v stall current. They also list the torque. Is the stall current the current draw when the motor is stalled? Does that have anything to do with the power output or torque?

On the chart below you can see the numbers. I have the following four motors.

LP 250:1 and 298:1
MP 250
HP 250

I like the RPM in the 50-75 range, but I can get some other pinion gears and compensate for that if I need to.

I cut off the column titles. It is stall current, rpm, torque...

http://i1291.photobucket.com/albums/b554/Slotcarjim/d86b4ec3689682da2a15c7320ee1af74_zps176de7f3.jpg

Jim

[Rvjimd]

If this project doesn't turn out I keep thinking these track on the undercarriage would make a good looking load on a low boy or deck trailer.

http://i1291.photobucket.com/albums/b554/Slotcarjim/453460fa68a1514b7de980cdb300ad57_zpsfc7fcdaa.jpg


I'm putting the high power motors back on...

Jim

[john]

Isn't more power always better? Lol you can get it together! That's the sweetest cat I've seen hate to see it apart. Did you get your esc working?

[john]

An yes stall current is when the motor is stopped as most are a dead short. But I honestly do not know about brushed an brushless. We're they stalling? Or would they spin the track? The power to wieght ratio is a fine line but I believe if the tracks would start to spin before the stalled out it would be easier or less harmful on the electronics.

[SmallHaul]

small haul thats the drive sprocket? you beveled the teeth on it it looks like? on both sides or just one side of the sprocket? so does that push dirt out or crunch it? good idea

Thanks, yes i just cut the back side so that you can't tell just looking at the machine. It works very nice, even if you get dirt in the tracks you just have to travel back and forth a couple of times and it chews and pushes the dirt out. Knock on wood i haven't had to manually removed dirt from the tracks since i did this mod.

[john]

easy maintainance i like!!

[Rvjimd]

Getting closer now. Really need the no brake ESC's to get this thing smoother and easier to control.

Pu t the high power motors back in and geared the final drives down to 15:27. I am also using 2 cell 850 lipos in the video. I have tried 3 cell but I think the motors just turn too fast for the gearing I have installed.

The gear motors are 298:1 with a torque at 6v of about 70in oz.

http://youtu.be/hshpCtwx9x0

Still need an operator! I have now beveled the drive sprockets, hope that reduces the dirt clod interference and jamming.

Jim

[Rvjimd]

One more quick video. I almost have this little thing working! Got the new speed controllers today. Wow, that works better! No more double clutching!

My trouble is the little tiny gear motors keep slipping on the final shaft and the last gear and then the pinnion gear on the output stops.

Guess I'm going to have to look for some other motors in a bit bigger size, but not too much.

http://youtu.be/sUAG0wC4Xz0

Jim

[john]

Looks great Jim! So the tracks were jamming more so in reverse? Did bevelling the drive sprockets help? I still total amazed that there is a battery in there somewhere haha. As for an operator I received a book from the collectors guild yesterday they have a few people for doloramas an stuff or have you tryed that 1000 toys.com?

[Rvjimd]

Thanks John,

I haven't had enough run time without a gearbox failure to tell how the beveled sprockets are working. I don't see how it won't help some? They way I figure it, there is less surface are and volume of the tooth of the sprocket to poke down into a link in the track chain with them beveled. So if a piece of dirt or sand or whatever is in a link, maybe the pointed/sharpened cog will ride past or cut the debris as it turns through the link?

Only downside I see could be that the tracks can now float outboard a bit due to the reduced width of the teeth.

I haven't really started looking for operators yet. I keep hoping I might find something local at a toy store. Might need to get online and order some.


Jim

[Rvjimd]

I made some more changes and adjustments and the dozer is starting to work real good now! Found an operator at wal mart! Got to love the eye patch!

http://youtu.be/0nWYDhsPwdQ

Jim

[modelman]

Jim-to me the dozer is a little too fast for realistic operation but it looks like it works really well. Also the blade up and down is faster than normal but this is due to the way it is rigged with the servo. This is just my opinion and you did a great job on the conversion. My main goal has always been realistic operation so this is the first thing I look at on any type of working model. Good job!!

[Rvjimd]

Tom,

I agree on both counts. I plan to run this way for a few hours and try to tune them down and see if it still pushes good. I get mush better and more realistic look when I get up close and go slow. I really need to be able to see the bottom of the blade to keep good control.

I'm having a blast with it! About time to go back to the pond with it and find a good realisting "job" for it.

Jim

[modelman]

Jim-I can see that it is a bit tricky to run smooth with the blade and tracks moving that fast but looks like you are getting good with it. Practice always helps. It looks like a fun machine to operate and when you get it out in your working pit I'm sure it will fit in nicely.

[john]

Tracks are clearing perfectly! Great job! Do you have any pics of how you squeezed the batteries in there? They seem to last decent time an even spins track an still pushes fair bit eh! lol are you going to put winch back on?

[Rvjimd]

John,

The batteries actually fit pretty easily. In the last couple videos I have been using a two 850 two cell lipo packs. They fit side by side under the hood, and I plug them in and bunch up the wires and slide the hood onto the chassis. They seem to last really great! I have not done a real good check, but I know they would make 30 minutes for sure! The little motors and standard servo of the blade don't task the two batteries too much. I do notice that the battery running the servo is always a bit lower voltage than the other.

I need to adjust the right side drive train, so I'll try to get some more video of some of the different detail.

As for the winch, when did you see a winch? Did I take a winch off of it? :rolleyes: the little 1:50 AC did have a ripper on it, but don't be confused by me switching dozers and scales mid conversion. ;)

Jim

[Rvjimd]

Making a new aft chassis for the dozer. I already had the larger spur and smaller pinion sets so since Tom thought I was too fast (he always seems to be right about this stuff!) I decided to do a little refit. I'm just guessing at the ratios. It ought to be close, and even if it comes out too slow, that would be good anyway! Then I can order a couple new motors geared a bit faster with a lower stall value to protect everything.

With any luck this will all turn out perfect, have great performance and I'll have it running by 2pm today!

Oh, and thinking out loud here, I realize that without seeing this thing up close it will be hard to picture, but..

I need to figure out how to add a bit of tension to the tracks now. The pins cast on the links are starting to wear a bit and they are just a bit too loose now. Don't want them to get tight, but they are too loose they way they are now. The spring at the front idler wheel is not looking like a good solution.

http://youtu.be/DzCHNof5Pu8

Jim

[john]

Oh my mistake Jim sorry i had winch on my mind for added weight for traction, wow thats alot of bevel on the drive sprockets!! as for track tension is there room to add a set screw to look front idler from moving back an loosening tracks? you would have to adjust it once in a while, our old ac had a huge wrench to turn a thread that put more tension on and my case uses a piston afew shoots of grease from a grease gun and shes tight, but i really believe your limited for space ill keep thinking tho, im assuming your hoping for automatic adjustment?

[Rvjimd]

Started working on the track upgrade yesterday. I'm drilling out the cast pins and thru both part. Then 1/16" piano wire goes in place. The two pictures show the slop due to wear of the pins cast on the original pads. I was able to remove a complete link and get the track back on, it was too tight though and I didn't run it that way.

http://i1291.photobucket.com/albums/b554/Slotcarjim/302e4d81a9b05e22411cd0ffbac55c71_zps8f7730d4.jpg

http://i1291.photobucket.com/albums/b554/Slotcarjim/e8e8345c8b8469011cf880aa3213e064_zpsf10ac1d6.jpg

The short top section is what I have done so far, just started.

Jim

[SmallHaul]

Its nice there is enough metal on the links to add pins... How much running did it take for the tracks to get loose? Are the drive wheels holding up ok?

[Rvjimd]

I'm not totally sure about the time but I estimate 4 or 5 hours. The nubs cast on the inner part poked into the hole of the outer tread in front of it. They were never that tight to start with.

Jim

[Rvjimd]

What/where should I look for roller chain with mounting tabs for building tracks if it comes to that?

If I understand and measured correctly, the original tracks measure 3/8" pin to pin. And 1/8" wide inside.

Jim

[Espeefan]

Jim, glad to see you are still working on this project. It's pretty amazing what you've been able to accomplish with such a small model. Those little motors sure sound strong and the dozer seems to have some good power, despite the small size. Very impressive.

[Rvjimd]

SP,

You do realize I changed horses mid-stream? My current dozer is not the first one in this thread. I started out on a 1:50 and sort of gave up on that due to no room to hide the RX, battery, or install a blade lift servo.

The one I'm working on now is 1:16. If I could change the title of the thread I would, I don't like to mislead anyone. I should've started a new thread when I bought the new, bigger dozer. :o

Jim

[Rvjimd]

I have more appreciation for you guys scratch building anything, after working on these track for two days! Holy crap there are a lot of pieces there!

http://i1291.photobucket.com/albums/b554/Slotcarjim/56e904a63e596085f99082dda5e5d452_zps6d8d3b22.jpg

Got the new 1000:1 motors and tried one! If it doesn't try to kill itself or the dozer it should be great.

Jim

[Rvjimd]

Got the tracks refit with steel pins. And, put the 1000:1 gear motors on it.

I think is is just a bit slow now, not much but a bit, especially in reverse?

I already took teeth off of one gear in the left side drive motor, so I'm going to find a way to run a bit bigger motor, faster and use a bigger spur gear to maintain the wheel speed close to the current video.

http://youtu.be/RRdcbilOqL0

Good thing it is fun to try stuff, make it go, break, and repeat! :p

Jim

[modelman]

Jim-I am glad to see that you realize how much work goes into a scratch build. :D I agree your dozer may be a bit slow now. It would be perfect for me but I am old. How about-1-tooth more on the pinion. I think you are really close and you should have lots of power now.

[Rvjimd]

I'm not sure if it is the screw up his back side, or that I keep putting his hair in the dirt, but he has threatened that he is going to quit!:rolleyes:

http://i1291.photobucket.com/albums/b554/Slotcarjim/b633bb82b6cffc700298c66735d20c3b_zpsee565aab.jpg
Jim

[john]

Looking good Jim! How's the operator? You two work things out lol.

[curlyone55]

Hi Jim, New to the hobby. What is the name or contact info for the shop where you purchased the 1/16 metal die cast dozer you are using as the base of this conversion????

[Rvjimd]

Curly ,

I got two of them and the had more and pretty sure they ship stuff. It is Iowa die cast. They have a web site.

Jim