sloppy stearing in the scania

[cosworth34677]

ok i've had this problem for a bit but i want to fix it now. ok i put two different servos, and full ball bearing in the truck ,including the stearing but he truck wont return ti the center and drive straight. its not so bad whenim driveing at the park or around the house on the streets. but it shows up when im trying to drive down a sidewalk. everytime i readjust my path the truck will pull the the direction i just adjusted to. so going down a tight path is out of the question.

its a tamyia scania pretty stock with a brushless crawler motor, the other thing is there tons of slop in the front wheels. i know all tamiyas have little slop but im thinking that helping with the bad stearing. any help or fixes

[Rd/Rz]

I made a flat aluminum plate to replace the flexy plastic servo mount ,seemed to help .

[Espeefan]

Ditch the stock plastic rod ends for something better. I've had good luck with Traxxas rod ends, using a 3mm bore through the pivot ball. You might want to double check that all the screws are tight on the tie rods, and servo drag link. Might as well make sure the servo horn is tight to the servo shaft, as well as double check that the servo mounting screws are tight. Grab the tires and wiggle them by hand to see where the slop is coming from. If you have a servo saver on the truck, get rid of that and replace it with a solid (plastic or aluminum) servo arm. Servo savers have a lot of slop in them.

[ricm]

here's what I did - removes significant amount of slop, improves steering lock and gives correct geometry..

http://i1156.photobucket.com/albums/p566/ricm2/IMG_2166.jpg

[Berman]

The factory plastic servo mount makes the servo flex side to side as it has both its mounting points on the top of the rails. It is common to upgrade to an alloy one, I have had to do this to my MAN as I had the same problem as you.

If you search tamiya scania man alloy servo mount on ebay you will find them.

The steering is still naturally sloppy, but with this upgrade you wont be over correcting it and it will track straight.

[IDontKnow]

My way of tightening up the steering is a little more complicated and time consuming but there is no freeplay or wobble in any of my trucks and people I have done the conversion for.

Firstly replace the servo as in most cases they are a standard type, I use digital - metal geared - with a stall torque of 16kg at 6.0v, lots of grunt!

Throw away Tamiya's nightmare called a servo saver, should be renamed to a steering crippler!

I use an aluminium servo horn tapped at 3mm and this one is held to the servo with a 3mm screw with a dab of contact cement to prevent it coming loose (threadlock is good but bloody hard to undo).

Next replace the ball joints on the arm that links the two steering knuckles.
I use a 3mm tie rod end and a 3mm bolt. You have to keep undoing one of them to align the wheels (I did say time consuming?).

I then drill out the plastic connectors (the bit that fits over the the ball) to 5.00mm and use two 5 mm shoulder screws (Traxxas Part) and bolt one end to the servo arm. with the shoulder bolt inserted in the knuckle end you can then align your steering. Once happy screw the shoulder bolt into its nut on the other side.

While this works quite well for the Tamiya front axle and knuckles, I still was not entirely happy with the outcome so if you want to improve on this idea try adding in the following items.

These are examples only and they can be bought from quite a few vendors.

Replacement axle, these use nylon bushes to support the pin:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ALUMINUM-FRONT-WHEEL-AXLE-BL-TAMIYA-TRACTOR-TRUCK-KING-KNIGHT-HAULER-R470-R620-/180871253961?hash=item2a1cc44fc9

And these are the knuckle I use, nice smooth snug fit:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ALLOY-ALUMINUM-FRONT-KNUCKLE-ARM-UPRIGHT-S-TAMIYA-TRACTOR-TRUCK-/110741161377?hash=item19c8b005a1

Hope you find this helpful.