WTF HAPPENED !!!

[Supermario]

so as planned I painted my day cab today. I stripped the original paint using brake fluid. washed thoroughly then sanded with 1200 grit. I shot the primer last night at 8pm. ( first time using this primer )
at 2pm today I sprayed the black. all was going well, no runs, even coat, smooth surface and then in a matter of minutes things went south and now look like this....

http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r620/Kinghauler2012/S%20and%20M%20trucking%20support%20equip/dump%20truck/image-01_zpsa2d12e72.jpeg (http://s1174.photobucket.com/user/Kinghauler2012/media/S%20and%20M%20trucking%20support%20equip/dump%20truck/image-01_zpsa2d12e72.jpeg.html)

and yet some spots came out perfect like the front of this fender....

http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r620/Kinghauler2012/S%20and%20M%20trucking%20support%20equip/dump%20truck/image-02_zpsfee876d0.jpeg (http://s1174.photobucket.com/user/Kinghauler2012/media/S%20and%20M%20trucking%20support%20equip/dump%20truck/image-02_zpsfee876d0.jpeg.html)

but the backside of fender is also crap.

http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r620/Kinghauler2012/S%20and%20M%20trucking%20support%20equip/dump%20truck/image-03_zps0df27be6.jpeg (http://s1174.photobucket.com/user/Kinghauler2012/media/S%20and%20M%20trucking%20support%20equip/dump%20truck/image-03_zps0df27be6.jpeg.html)

I suspect the paint didn't like the primer? what I don't get is why the inside of cab which had primer but not sanded shows no reaction??

http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r620/Kinghauler2012/S%20and%20M%20trucking%20support%20equip/dump%20truck/image-04_zps353dfe0d.jpeg (http://s1174.photobucket.com/user/Kinghauler2012/media/S%20and%20M%20trucking%20support%20equip/dump%20truck/image-04_zps353dfe0d.jpeg.html)

Ive used this paint many many times over the years and never had a problem.

http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r620/Kinghauler2012/S%20and%20M%20trucking%20support%20equip/dump%20truck/image_zps3c8fcbd9.jpeg (http://s1174.photobucket.com/user/Kinghauler2012/media/S%20and%20M%20trucking%20support%20equip/dump%20truck/image_zps3c8fcbd9.jpeg.html)

so the cab is back in a brake fluid bath again.:(
id like to try once more painting this before I get it done by a pro so any help or suggestions is appreciated.

Thanks guys n gals.

Mario

[RCP57]

Oh that sucks! I had the same thing happen to the boat I made last year and my KW850 in random spots. It seemed to me like the paint had to go on the primer pretty much right away or I had to let it sit and cure for days. I'm not sure if that is the problem in your case but that's how it went for me.

[Kingcam2]

I saw this when I was doing woodwork at school, it cause by if you paint some thing in water base and one that dried go over it with a oil base paint.

check both of you spray can and see what type of paint they are?

[Claus]

Hey Mario, that looks like I painted it! I'm really good at screwing up paint, I'm equally good at any color, flat, gloss, metallic, you name it, they all come out with a wrinkle finish rather I want them to or not.

I do feel for you.

[doodlebug]

Hey Mario, what did you clean the body with after stripping? Did all of the brake fluid get washed off?
Cheer's, Neil.

[flatdeck]

Mario I bet that the CTC primer is the problem... I have been told to stay away from that primer... It had a bad reaction ...

[ihbuilder]

Match your primer . Does cat have some ? I have used the bondo brand primer in a pinch with the cat paint with good results . I've had that happen 1 time on a real truck , crap base paint reacted with the new paint . Pissed me the h3!! Off .

[REV73]

It looks like that new crackle effect nail polish....quit raiding Sue's side of the vanity!!!

[Mikem]

I agree with flat deck someone told me always use matching products and stay away from crappy tire . Mike

[Ken Orme]

Mario;

If the inside of the hood was sprayed with the same primer as the outside the paints are compatable, you may have sprayed just enough color to cover it. On the outside you wanted a nice shine and you spreyed on more paint. The surface "flash" dried and sharnk. Try using lighter coats. Try this method on some scrap and see what happens.

Ken

[Supermario]

Thanks guys. I'm really kicking myself for two reasons. I shouldn't have tried that primer and the cat paint can be applied without primer!

Today's update, I got the paint off and looks like the primer did more than react with the paint:eek: the crackle you see in the first pics is still there and you can feel the roughness of them:eek::confused:

That's it. I ordered a new cab today:mad:

Mario

[Stuff]

boo urns!! atleast you can get a replacement cab and this didnt happen to a custom built one!!

[RCP57]

Thanks guys. I'm really kicking myself for two reasons. I shouldn't have tried that primer and the cat paint can be applied without primer!

Today's update, I got the paint off and looks like the primer did more than react with the paint:eek: the crackle you see in the first pics is still there and you can feel the roughness of them:eek::confused:

That's it. I ordered a new cab today:mad:

Mario

You should just build an aluminum cab. At least it won't look like an old "B" sack if the paint wrinkles.:p

Sorry for poking fun. I feel your pain because I also struggle with painting. It really should be one of the best parts of the build but for me it is always the most stressful. I painted my Volvo's body with 4 different brands of paint. The one that finally went on the easiest was the Armor coat... Go figure...

On my KH, I used automotive touch up paint(base and clear) but used primer from Princess auto. I had no problems with that one but let the primer cure for days before I laid the color and clear. I think the solvents in the primer need to kick off for a few days if you aren't painting immediately. On some of the primer I have used it said to paint within an hour or wait at least 48 hours.

Reg

[Supermario]

here's what the hood looks like :eek::confused:

http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r620/Kinghauler2012/image-01_zps28e9d041.jpeg (http://s1174.photobucket.com/user/Kinghauler2012/media/image-01_zps28e9d041.jpeg.html)

http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r620/Kinghauler2012/image_zps275a2825.jpeg (http://s1174.photobucket.com/user/Kinghauler2012/media/image_zps275a2825.jpeg.html)


on the bright side, all is not lost. glad to start with a new clean body and a buddy at work contacted his friend who paints at a autobody shop. he will do for free.
and now I have a body to practice cutting and filling!:D I can cut the light boxes off and fill in the fenders. then I want to try cutting doors and come up with a hinge. ( opening doors or atleast one door would really help on a day cab I figure. )

so the crackle cab is now a chop and learn cab.

Id love to build a cab out of aluminum Reg but the money spent to get the tooling required could buy me a new 4200 excavator or Wedico 345 !:D

Mario

[RCP57]

Id love to build a cab out of aluminum Reg but the money spent to get the tooling required could buy me a new 4200 excavator or Wedico 345 !:D

Mario[/QUOTE]

Yes that's probably true! From my experience, plastic or metal I still can't paint worth a $#I+! I think I will keep coming up with details to add to the Hayes. That way it is never finished and can't be painted!

[Backlash]

That to me looks like the reaction you get when you use an oil based primer, and an acrylic (solvent/thinner) automotive based top coat..

It is upsetting though when all of that time and effort preparing the surface goes to waste when something like this happens..

[dabears]

Had the same thing happen with Krylon paint on my day cab. had to sand block the whole cab smooth again. I was really pissed. so cab still sits in primer cause im afraid to paint it. HAHA. no seriously paint terrifies me now... :( so now I will sand and send to someone who can paint good..

you can sand that cab and still use it as a test cab for body work.

Oh and try rubbing alcohol and cotton balls. it may soften the primer and smooth it out too.

[Panther F]

I've been always leery of using brake fluid because it can react to softer types of styrene.

I've had better luck with Pine Sol, but watch the time spent in the fluid as it can heat-up and soften the structure of the plastic.





Jeff

[Supermario]

:DI've been always leery of using brake fluid because it can react to softer types of styrene.

I've had better luck with Pine Sol, but watch the time spent in the fluid as it can heat-up and soften the structure of the plastic.





Jeff

I too was Leery about using brake fluid. I wanted to know how long was too long so I used the back plate of the sleeper as a test subject. I let it soak fully submerged for 12 hrs. The paint wiped right off and absolutely no effect or damage to the plastic. So even with paint removed I threw it back in for 24hrs. No damage or softness at all. Even the moulded rivets are still strong and sharp.

Then I knew I could strip the cab with brake fluid and not have to worry. As Aaron said, painting worries me and should be left to professionals.:rolleyes:;):D

I used DOT 4 type fluid by the way! I have no idea what the effects of using DOT 3 or any other type of brake fluid. I don't want anyone to use the wrong type and then blame me because I said it was ok.:rolleyes::D

[Supermario]

Mario;

If the inside of the hood was sprayed with the same primer as the outside the paints are compatable, you may have sprayed just enough color to cover it. On the outside you wanted a nice shine and you spreyed on more paint. The surface "flash" dried and sharnk. Try using lighter coats. Try this method on some scrap and see what happens.

Ken

Hey Ken. Sorry I missed your post. You are absolutely right! I did go just a light spray on the inside compared to the outside! It all looked good, I should have stopped but I noticed one or two crackles in the hood so what did I do? I put More paint of course! :eek::lol::cop:
The more I tried to cover it, the worse it got! It all makes sense now but....why did it damage the plastic?

[bigford]

the problem with brake juice is not what happens today, but what happens
weeks,month or years later. I lost a Tamiya bruiser body to the juice
20 year old body started to crumble to a powdery pile

[Jakyat]

I agree with flat deck someone told me always use matching products and stay away from crappy tire . Mike

Me 3! I am new to this hobby, but I am fairly seasoned with painting. I do feel there is a reaction between two different brands of paint. My opinion anyways.
I have had the same thing happen to me. Now, I always paint something extra just so I can test for that reaction. Luckily, you aren't dealing with a plastic cab. I had this happen once while building a shelf model kit. By the time I had re-sanded and prepped it again, I ended up sanding off all the rivets and detail. I feel for you!!

[dabears]

Ive had that happen with the primer.. On a new washed cab... so I don't think its a reaction. its just the B**** of painting and temps etc... IDK I hate paint.

[luckless wolf]

personnaly I had this problem just because I painted in closed room so paint's "fog" didn't gone out
after test with same spare parts using same paints in my garden I didn't had problem anymore

[Cooper]

Without knowing exactly what paints used, it's one of the two,-- products weren't compatible or products weren't compatible and too thick of coats. Some useful tips in painting are now a days always use same product. A lot of different chemicals to flash faster/slower, thin/thicken time between coats are used in different companies and the paint may be compatible but the solvents may not. I think that may have been the case along with too thick of a coat. I've always experienced the talent in painting is having the discipline to prep correctly and to spray more coats at a very light covering. Try to do the detail (hard to cover or difficult to get to) first. On these types of things I've switched to all waterborne paints. Can still be used with a 2k clear. And you don't have to be that great at painting or to have a high $ paint gun. Spray cans are fine , just remember to start spraying then hit the part. You just have a harder time applying thin coats with cans. But treat it same, light light coats, read the labels and always make a test sample. The really good guys take the time and have the experience of reading the paint (its flash , thickness, and when to stop!!). The biggest hurdle I had was the discipline to stop when I was ahead not saying "oh there is a little spot that could use some more-then seeing a run cus I put too much on!"

[WhiteWolf McBride]

*Sigh*

Seen this all-so-often when using brake fluid... stuff has petroleum by-prods, and they can attack the plastic.

Me, I use 'Easy Off' oven cleaner, in the pump bottle, not the aerosol. That or sommat called 'Mean Green' bio-cleaner, or 'Castrol SuperClean' in the purple pump bottle.... they have never given me a post-use reaction like this.

All three are 'down-the-drain' safe, where officially, brake fluid needs to be disposed of at an approved depot, like tranny fluid, oil, paint, etc.

Just FYI...

WhiteWolf,
finally painting and assembling a few models...