What Paint do you Use?

[up9018]

Been working on my truck and I'm just not happy with the way the paint has come out so far. To the point where I'm stripping my frame for a 2nd time.

So before I set out to try again, I thought I would ask the more experienced builders for some advice.

What brand of paint do you use?

Acrylic, Enamal, Laquer?

Prime first?

Spray can or Airbrush?

Do you Clearcoat?

Do you put in extra work like wet sanding coats, polishing, etc?

How long do you let your paint or clearcoat cure before proceeding with your build?


Thanks for taking the time to share.

Chris

[up9018]

Hard to believe there were 68 views and not a single reply.

[BiLLy bOb]

Last thing i painted was a yamaha rhino. (Not a r/c or even a model, but paint is paint regardless of what is getting colored). i used automotive base coat clear coat. ((Left over from a recolor we did on bro's focus, omni brand paint)). Followed instructions/recommendations on cans. yes, did wet/color sand between coats of paint. Makes for a sweet finish. Sanded each layer of clear too. Smooth finish makes a slicker overall finish.

Since i have relocated after my retirement, going to have to experiment with paints before i paint my globe or other KH.

[tc1cat]

#1- whatever brand has the color that I want. I am not picky on brand.
#2- I have used all 3 types.
#3- Priming is one of the most important steps. Lets you see any flaws that you missed and correct them.
#4- Again, I have used both.
#5- For gloss finishes, it is a must.
#6- Wet sanding for gloss finishes is a must.
#7- I go by what the manufacturer says. Last truck was left for twice as long as recommended and I still had problems with the paint. You need to go by what you see on the model.

Painting is probably the worst part of building for me. I am never satisfied with how things turn out except when doing military vehicles which almost anything will work!!

I hope that this will help!!

[Snochaser]

99.9% of the great looking finishes on the "builds" are done with automotive primers paints and guns. A lot are also sub out do to the finesse and "tools" it takes to get the flawless finish.

Hope this helps....I'd say all the views with no replies (as you stated above) are the others wanting to know what this thread is about and if the is some insight to the process.

[up9018]

Thanks for the replies. My first two attempts were done with Krylon spray cans. I loved the color but the finish was only OK, definitely a 10foot rule. I figured if I spent the money for all of the upgrades, why would I want to hang them on a poor paint job?

I'm not set up for automotive finishing, but do have an airbrush for modeling. So my thoughts were to try Tamiya paint, either can or airbrush, or go with another type of modeling paint for airbrushing. Some of them are acrylic, didn't know how well that held up.

Just trying to get info before I paint it a third time.

Thanks,
Chris

[Cooper]

One of the most overlooked and easiest to accomplish with not being a professional painter, light,light, light coats, it is very easy to spray one more swipe because one little spot looked light. But it will always be better to use several light coats.
I don't have a lot of experience painting styrene, but have paint much fiberglass boats and other projects. I've switched to waterborne paints spraying with gun and airbrush. Using 2k clear coats. This is a pic of auto air waterborne paint with a 2k clear. It hasn't been polished yet but still pretty shiney.
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/9c4bc1c72553c508657f33b59256b759_zps257287d7.jpg

And one of my trucks I've painted with same paint but not sanded and not cleared, just soda blasted the styrene, primed (sanded a little on the primer) then several coats.
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/68A4C7F2-CDEF-4433-82A0-83BD88D1CA56_zpso64puyxd.jpg

The best part is I can paint in garage and be fine on inhaling. But the clear coat definitely need mask, filters, ventilation ect. And clean up is taking tools into kitchen and washing it the white sink. (But again, clear is not water base so none of that easy stuff applies to it)

[dmess62]

How does the regular clear hold up over the waterborne paint. My uneducated thought would be it wouldn't stick right or would mess up the paint

[Cooper]

That's what the boat is done with, spraymax 2part clear ( http://www.repaintsupply.com/spraymax-2-part-2k-urethane-aerosol-clear-coat-p3685.html ) it is one of the few 2k paints in a can. For what I paint (small stuff) the set up, prep, and ventilation is a lot more easy on me having a product like that in a can. The base coat, and color are done in wicked colors createx
http://www.tcpglobal.com/CRE-KIT-WICKED.html#.VLiMQGK9KSM
As far as clear coats, always read and find out what a suitable clear will work with base coats you are using. I have found out the hard way that not all paints/ clears play well with each other. But the waterborne stuff is pretty friendly towards all clears applied over after proper drying. I'm by far not a painter that should be giving advise, just from what I have done. And the boat is now going into its 3 year and looks just as new and shiney at first day. For stuff I've clear coated I've only used two part clears. So I'm not familiar with much else. But I may sand the yellow truck and clear it. Nice thing about waterborne is flash is quick and not really any limit on time another coat can be applied. (But this is from the paints I've been using. Mostly createx and thinned for airbrush or spot/touch up gun.

[up9018]

Cooper, do you prime under the Creatix paints? If so, what Primer do you use?

Thanks,
Chris