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10 bar is 174 psi. The steel will work if seemless and honed. I useed the brass because it machines better and and the price is'nt much different. I haven't even honed this brass yet. Most tubing I've seen don't take much to clean up. I used regular o-rings on mine and is doing fine so far but I'm ready to put it to work.

Steve, I used 1-72 bolts on the gland packing.

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Joe-that is some nice and precision work! Will the standard o-rings handle the hyd. fluids?

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well i was going to use round stalk lol as like in my pics that i turned out no seem i don't think lol and i think i could use a set of fine brake hones and on the stem what could be used zink plated ? i really don't know i know how it all works just don't have a clue what to use for materials ............sorry about hyjackin your thread

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Standard in size I guess is what I meant to say, they are Buna, made for hydraulic applications.

Henry, you would save a lot of time just getting the tubing insted of boring them. I would use 260/330 brass tubing and just a polished steel precision ground rod. I think I went with the 260 brass on my cylinder (been laying there a couple years, can't remember).

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I would use brass or plain steel tubing for the cylinders and just hone out smooth (oil will coat inside and paint outside for rust proofing) For the Rod I would look at precision ground stainless, should be plenty smooth enough (most anyway, some ground stainless rods aren't the best and would need polishing) and the stainless would keep rust away. Much cheaper and easier than zinc and chrome plating for what it is.

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Joe's right Clyde , trust me I've been there and lost some hair . I got some seemless ss tube and rod . I was going to tread both ends of the tube and make brass ends but I like joe's glad end set up :)

IHSteve

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Another option is to check the local auto wreckers for hatchback cyclinders...Rod diamater is fairly close to scale size and if your careful you may be able to salvage seals ..might be worth a try

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Henry don't get the inside of the cylinder to smooth you have to have some roughness so the oil will hold on, a polished surface is not good I am using brake cylinder hones on my cylinders and some I got from a place in Florida that they use on automatic transmissions to clean up bores. Ed

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Joe, awesome job, as usual. Do you have a reference for sizing the o-ring grooves? O-rings are easy to find, but I'm not sure how much clearance or squish to allow for proper sealing without excessive sliding resistance. Did you solder the large end on to the barrel or turn it from one piece of thick-wall tube? Thanks!

Ken

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Hey Ken, The o-rings are already sized, by that I mean that if you needed an o-ring for a 5/16'' shaft, it is made with the right tolerances that it needs to do the job. When I cut an o-ring grove I use the same tolerances.

The end cap and the large end are soldered, yes.

When do we get to see what you are building, Ken? It's been a long time.

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Joe, I think what Ken wants to know is- if you use an O ring for a .5" diameter cylinder, what diameter groove do you put in the piston? Do you just measure the O ring thickness and make the groove that dimension smaller than the cylinder? Or is there some sort of chart or rule of thumb that you go by when making the piston grooves?

Lynn

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I don't have a chart, just made the piston groove a thousands bigger than the o-ring. You don't want it to tight and stretched or it will change the OD of the o-ring. Here's a link to what I referenced too. http://www.allorings.com/gland_dynam...iprocating.htm

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Machinerys handbook has all that info in, strongly suggest anyone that tinkers with machining get a copy, lots and lots of good info.

O-ring groove sizes are in my 25th edition on page 2400.

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Thanks Joe and everyone for the response and advice about the orings. My Komatsu dozer is a very slow build. Been traveling a lot for work - last time I even took my mini-lathe and turned out four bottom rollers during the evenings at the hotel. I finally figured out the drivetrain and got gears, bearings and motors. Have modified cordless drill planetaries for the final drive and sourced pinion and bullgears along with bearings. Got a mini-mill about a month ago and have practiced using it - much more accurate and easy to use than the Dremel-in-a-drill-stand I "machined" the pivot shaft covers with. I will be building the tracks completely, which will take time, but have found only one product that is close to correct pitch (20.4 mm) for my dozer, but would cost about $500 just for the links and pads - too much for my wallet. Have taken pictures - just reluctant to post yet, since it will be a while before it looks like anything. I am always amazed how quickly some of you build things - to me it's astonishing fast! Machining is a skill I'm aquiring slowly - have to double check everything I do, which slows completion times. But I'm getting better at it. Seeing the work that people on this forum do, keeps me motivated.

Sorry for the lengthy posting...

Ken

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I think we need more video's of those awsome machines at work lol i can set and watch them all day as i have before :)

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I'd like to oblige you, but I burned up my hydraulic motor yesterday doing a little test and tune on the radio, so waiting a motor. The motor kept getting oil in it since I bought it and it would burn it out as soon as I fired it up. I brought a whole new meaning to the phrase (fire it up), yesterday.

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AWwWwW that is bad does that mean you have to get a new hydralic pump?

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No, pump is fine, just the motor. $27 Thank you Lord.

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Joe you do this with your grader?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ot_AOuVYw_w

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I'm gonna practice that grader move... Hope the company doesn't mind!