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The dog pic was me when I impacted the ground from 8 feet up and then at the hospital when the doc said I broke 4 ribs . Cooper sorry for putting this on your thread . Mike

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For thin bearings, try looking here: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from...earing&_sop=10



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Very nice job Cooper. You can fill the imperfections with some black silicone. Ed

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Coop that tire is excellent! It can only get better from here! Color isn't bad especially if more pigment will start messing with the rubber.

I definitely like SuperGirls paint job!

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Thank you fellas!! Got home and found a big box on porch. Figured it was for wife. Found my name on it and was surprised as I only had one thing coming in mail and it wasn't going to be here till Friday. The box looked really big for the small 1:50 diecast truck I got. Figured they went nuts with packing peanuts. Was surprised to actually get a side by side eye on how big my next project is going to be.
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7ixunbap.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...psxcplmeu7.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...psjuz9bofg.jpg

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the kill dozer just got small!!!

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GREAT job on your tire! SUPER first run.

=Terry

P.S. Check your PM's

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Cooper-your first tire looks good. You probably don't need my advice but I will offer a bit of what I learned in this process. I see a little air and this will be a small problem but I noticed one of your vent holes may not be on the highest point of the tire but I could not see all of them. That could be some cause for air. Also I think you will have a better chance of getting the air out if you keep the mold level in both directions when you are close to being full. Another thing I found was to not fill the vent holes. Just let the rubber barely get into the vent holes and the air still has a chance to escape. Also, if you have the working time, stop for a few minutes when it is about 90% full and let the air escape. Then finish filling it up. One other thing I found that saved a lot of time was to leave the mold open and pour the bottom half almost full then attach the top mold and finish filling.This will take a little practice but I'm sure you will get it right.

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Keeping with the topic of big pink silicone things. I have to wonder if a little vibrating motor would help to disperse the bubbles or would it make things worse? I'm not talking paint shaker here but just a little gentle vibration to help settle out the bubbles...

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oh like a mfu shaker unit !!

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Yeah maybe not even that violent. Just a gentle vibration to get the juices moving;). Rub-a-Dub has been pretty quiet for a day now so my guess is he will be back tonight with 6 perfect tires.:cool:

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But where is the picture of the tire ? Mike

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knowing ralph already mounted to the axles

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Mike- Go back 2 pages to post #1093. :D

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I should have more material to make another one in a couple days. This time I got enough to make one with a hardness of 40, first one is 60 comparable to sneaker shoe. The 40 is comparable to wine cork. And I'll add a lot more pigment. Originally I figured two learning parts till I get one right. More of trying to figure out how soft I can make them. and if the first two "test" tires don't make the cut maybe another project, worlds largest 1:14 scale motorcycle!?!
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...pswpg7gp4y.jpg

As far as the casting, this stuff has a pour time of 5 min. Sounds like plenty but mixing, degassing, and then pouring slowly, it starts to set up quick. It's not completely necessary to degass (vacuume) and that may give me more pouring time. I think what is happening is the material is starting to thicken while some of the bubbles are still rising. And the air has been introduced from the pouring into mold. I do t think I have enough time to pour half set mold top and box up before it thickens. But quick mixing and not degassing will keep it thin and hopefully that will allow any poured air to escape. And I did cut bigger vent holes on the two small ones. It's easy to grind the casting plugs flush so I would rather do that than have to fill big pockets. And they will always be on the non visible side anyway. So a couple days more before test number two. And then I should know what to get for the production line:). If this stuff were cheaper I would have gotten enough of both and been done by now!!!

Oh and reg, I'll go check on that aeromax now, keep forgetting to , or getting sidetracked with all this silicone implanting , I ment casting stuff :)

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speaking from having absolutely no experience or knowledge about making tires,
instead of pouring the material into the mold. ( which I'm thinking is the major cause of air bubbles) is there a way to pump the solution into the mold from the bottom of it, or the "good side" and then trim the fill port when done?
No pouring, no air?..... Just saying:confused:....

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So lemme get this right Cooper your doing silicone implants ?lol

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Well Mario if Cooper had an factory then a injection machine might be ideal but I think he is doing great job and from the first test it looked like there weren't too many air bubbles I could be wrong though
But your idea is a good one as well

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Sort of like low pressure injection molding :confused: factory made rc tires probably use some kind injection molding. so you may be onto something there. :thinking:

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so instead of a $5000 dump truck cooper into it for $105,000.

keep plugging away r-dub and watch this
https://youtu.be/QC5xzmeYP74

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Truck maker ,thanks for the post number missed a couple days of due to rib issues . Cooper when I use to moulding I got rid of those tiny bubbles you have at the top by putting it in a vacuum pot it worked well . Mike

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http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...pseawyn74k.jpg

Hate dismantleing such a nice model but it's needed. Making an early Xmas list for metals:)

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this what you did for the d11?

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Yup, same thing, bit the bullet and bought one of those models, scaled off of it. Also various pics, company brochure , and shop manuals. Pics from Mario will help. (Would be nice if cat would give me access to detailed manufactuering blueprint) blahhhhahahah:lol:

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Hey Cooper/Cat

Have you looked at this : http://www.the-blueprints.com/vector..._mining_truck/

You R doing AWESOME work Carry on :cool:

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R W you might want to take a look here too. On page 17 there's a three view drawing of your truck. Load it on a zip drive and take it to your local copy center and have it enlarged so the axle wheel base is 14.571 and you'll have a drawing you can measure strait off of.
Good luck, she's going to be big!!! 32.5 L x 16" H x 19" W

http://s7d2.scene7.com/is/content/Caterpillar/C637177

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Thanks bo, and steamer, they will help!!

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Well I wasn't sure about power of the gearhead motors I got, so I got some new ones in mail, they are .55horsepower each. They should move it fully loaded;). But on the serious side, this thing may be pretty heavy, tires are 4 pounds each, that's 24 pounds just in the tires!! I really don't know what weight she will be but it's probably gonna come in around or over 80 pounds. I'm planing on frame and most structural stuff alum, the dump bed sheet steel. I hope my brazing skill will improve. I really don't want to have a bunch of ugly tack welds on dump box necause it will be pretty visible when raised.
Steve, thanks for the kaydon bearings, they are the slim type I was looking for, but,,,,, those little suckers are $100 or more for one!! Changed my ideas around on the axles to suit more practice bearings. I have almost 6" between rear tires and duel wheels spread almost 5" so plenty of room to hide motors/support bearings and anything else in rear axle. I also thought about 1:5 and 1:8 scale gas RC trucks rear differentials but I'm thinking they are even small for this!! And the gearhead motors I am getting have a 1/2" shaft, 1 1/2" long. Keyed and end hole tapped on shaft. That will make a really solid set up for removing load from motor shaft to the truck axle.

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This thing is going to be almost 3' long, 18" wide and with dump bed raised almost 32" tall. This may be on the limits of what I can comfortably carry around. !!!! One thing about this is it is a fast mover compared to the dozer, as long as it's is running I'll be using it to move me possibly!!!! I'm just guessing here but I imagine it should be able to haul about a five gallon bucket of material. Should be built to support 80 pound load or more.

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glad to see it all coming together brother, cant wait to see this bad boy i action! :bounce:

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And don't forget the battery weight and size. Probably going to need a good sized one for decent run time. Or maybe wire up a whole bunch of those lipos you got should work.:eek:

I'd hate to see you strain your back carrying the beast. Better build a tow cart or something for behind the ATV? :)

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Hey Cooper !

This might avoid future BackPain Just train Mr Nutter to drive The RockBeast and the transportation is solved. Roll on roll off :https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OPdCDj_RiKI

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Good idea Bo, but mr nutters has moved onto another worksite, he now works for the forestry department:).

Well I know I got the pigment right this time. And I mixed for 1 min, immediately poured and had the mold slightly unlevel, tapped mold, basically did everything I could to eliminate the air. Time will tell, about two hours and I get to see if hero or zero!!!
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...psk9zgb4xs.jpg

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Drumroll, Please !

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Here ya go mark,Bo,, and some scale along the aeromax

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...pseftpvf0e.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...psoh1hrso8.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...psyyzrhyc5.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...psv4irssg4.jpg

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SCORE !!! You Sillycone Guru :bounce:

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the tire is as tall as the aeromaxxxxxx
epic build going on here!!



back to my little kat

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Impressive cooper . I think you'll be able to put all my trains in the box ! Mike

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May Santa bring you a box full of hero cookies! That is awesome my friend!

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Nice! They barely look like a permit load.