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Re: Volvo G990 Grader
I see problem's with the quality of there sand, I see gas problem's, and I don't think they understand how to vent the mold properly! They need to pay attention to what temperature they pour at.
Yes, I understand your frustration! Cheer's, Neil. |
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I´ve found another foundry to entrust with the next, much beefier part(s). Hope they´ll do better.
In the meantime I´ve started making cylinders. They come in two rather small sizes, namely 10 and 13 mm inside dia., respectively. This is my CAD drawing of the the circle turn cylinder. The piston rod is a mere 4 mm in diameter, even in 1/8. The cylinder piston is the 10 mm one. The stroke is 39 mm. https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...lNyVHRoeDk3Z2s This is, obviously :D, the real one: https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...zBPS2VBWFhaZGM The tubes here are just pre-cut. https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...TFQdExtZ0t5b0k https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...lFKa25rc05SM0E The cylinder heads are at a 14.4 and 17.4 mm outside diameter, respectively. https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...HlGbHB2TFJKcm8 Stefan |
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What is that green part next to the O-ring in your Cad drawing?
Great build, always gives me so much ideas and inspiraion! Keep posting! |
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Thanks Madda! The green part is supposed to symbolize a wiper and support for the O-ring.
Stefan |
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That is some very nice machining on those caps, Ed
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Wiper, okay, what is the material you use to make this?
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That is some outstanding machining!! What are you using to be able to thread that close to the bottom of the caps??
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Thanks! Well, I too thought that would be a problem, but luckily I found out there are tools like this:
https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...mVUWG15cjhnWjg |
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Stefan,
when you make up the wipers for the cylinders can you provide photos and description of how you make them as well as what material you use apart from the PTFE please. Learning a lot from builds like yours and appreciate any detailed information that helps to make the parts in the home workshop. Cheers Paul |
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Paul,
Sure! When I know what works I´ll show you. Stefan |
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OK , now where did you find that id threading bar ? been looking forever :eek: OTOH , the grader is coming along nicely :eek:
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Your cylinders are off to a great start!! You have some major talent with those machines
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@Steve: The threading bar is a SIR S16x07 M08 from AKKO. Needs a minimum 11 mm id hole. They also sell on eBay (Germany). The insert is a 08 IR 0,5 ISO BMA from www.bachgmbh.de.
Another german supplier (they don't seem to have any englich page, am sorry) sell threading bars for holes down to 6.2 mm (1/4"). Stefan |
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Stefan,
thankyou for the reply I look forward to following the rest of your build. Cheers Paul |
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Wow, the attention to detail! Incredible. You are very talented. It's just amazing to me, to see this project, and others like it, come together.
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Thanks Nathan! Despite all intentions to plan well ahead I run out of brass for the cylinders build and have to put it on hold for a while. But thanks to that I had time to prepare some pics from the circle build.
The basis is this 210 mm (over the tips) toothed wheel, which was laser cut from 6 mm (1/4") stainless. Here with an MDF fixture for centering the ring (see further down). https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...nI5bjZkTmtFZkE https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...Hg3a254T0xRcVU Here you see the shaping of said ring from a 4 mm x 19 mm bar in a simple bending device. If you wonder what the black dots at the edge are, here´s the story: As I milled away 1 mm along the edge from a 4x20 bar I must have released some surface tension having the effect of bending the whole bar in its main plane, the milled surface being convex by about 2 mm in the middle portion :mad:. Trying to straight that out in the vice in a controlled way I imagined to be rather frustrating if not infeasible :(, but I remembered that there´s always this problem with contraction with welding. So I made all these welding spots with the TIG, starting sparsely and adding more until the bar was back to straight. I´ll tell you it was a good feeling turning that problem to my advantage and watching the bar returning to straight almost effortlessly. https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...0VfZTFMQ3pEUWc https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...WlKb3NTSlBSX1E Due to the elasticity (you see the spring back two pics above) the bending core is this small and makes an overlap necessary. I reckoned a coiling overlap to be less detrimental to the end result than a layer on layer kind of winding. In any case, it allowed the forming wheel (the ball bearings) to be closer to the core. https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...2VNS3lFRnRyVEE The ends stay straight or become bent with the wrong radius, so have to be cut away. https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...0I1YklwR05rejA Attaching the ring to the cog wheel. https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...1NOT2ZBR0doOW8 Then the bearing surface was ground. https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...md2ZHF5Rkd2UkU https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...XByWXFlNEc5cm8 The resulting surface compared to the raw laser cut to the right. https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...HhiQTdfbzVURHM The edge if the ring is internally reinforced by this narrower ring. https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...UJlU1h3NE1YVmM https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...llLVHVtVVhnc0E https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...2FZaFBqS0VCX00 Thanks for looking. Stefan |
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WOW! Just wow! Amazing work on your models, I really wish I had your talent. I love the wooden bending jig too.
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Glad you like it, Brian :) . The fork portion of the circle is now ready. Final fixing to the gear and ring portion to follow when I have tested the circle turning drive.
https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...UkyNjViLW8yY3c https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...2NkcjdpUjZ6R1E https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...1dBTlY5RGU0QTg https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...1ozRmpqNFlsY3M Stefan |
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Pretty tricky work cutting that ring to fit inside of the circle. I do that alot at my work on some of the products we build.
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Can sure agree on that. I actually calculated and marked the length to cut before bending. The first cut was just a bit too long (and luckily not too short).
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Yep, I meant the length of the neutral axis ;). Btw, what dimensions are we talking about in your case?
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Here some "making of" pics. First the brackets for the blade tilt cylinders.
The original. Actually, I just realize I forgot to round of the outer corner :o Well, better that than rounding of something which should be well defined. https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...HJLRUtYRUc2TVU Cutting at an angle saved some material. https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...VFsdm5iMTk0bTQ Getting the top surface of the pieces parallel with the top of the jaws (having made sure the latter are at a right angle to the spindle axis). https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...Vd6b1FWcHQzYm8 https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...DB4c2s4MjFWTGs Later, same procedure but new set-up for drilling. https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...UJlWUFWQmJrMWc 1.2 mm drill. https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...DdPN09qQlk0azQ Tapping M1.4. Always quite scary tapping the smaller threads in stainless 1.4301 (SAE grade 304), since this material has a strong tendency to work hardening. But I need it for its weldability. https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...G0zaW9lc0s5VFk To be continued. Thanks for looking. Stefan |
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looking good. Wish I had a thimble full of the talent displayed in these projects.
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Some more circle making pics. To start with a "quick and dirty" jig for adapting the bracket base to the radius of the circle ring.
https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...l8wRXJNLWNkeVU https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...VdGTVNFc3BUUDA https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...29OZmlFOThQdFE And another setup for rounding the bracket ends. The center of the bracket hole is offset by 0,5 mm from the center of the turning table. https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...VJKQ3J3Y3g1R0U https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...0c1ejRwMzJ4NjA https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...XBYOF9reXB2WWc Each bracket was provisionally fixed with two welding spots to a circle arm. https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...XQzM0ZuQlNkRG8 https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...lFqcDFCRmI3STA Here the brackets have already been hard soldered and the circle arms are being connected with a 16 mm rod. https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...nc3MHlHNUlVcjA Thanks for looking. Stefan |
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A lot to do 1 model, here´s 2 at the same time! guess you will have spare parts for rest of life, ha ha.
dan |
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Yeah, Dan, assuming the build itself doesn't take rest of life...
Sometimes I wonder whether making two was the wisest decision :confused: Now, having come this far, I will, and I'm still motivated to, continue not only building both models, but doing it more or less in parallel, since repeating all steps later for the second model would seem to be less efficient. Stefan |
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The tandem bearings are ready. There´s a split outer ring attaching to the tandem box, an inner ring attaching to the rear axle and a bronze ring there between, fixed relative to the inner ring. The bronze ring has the same dimensions as a certain "standard" 4-point contact, thin section bearing with a split inner ring. Unfortunately, however, the only supplier I know of couldn´t deliver :mad:.
To the left the two faces of the outer ring. https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...FFuSlVSeGRCNFk https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...XkzY096STFwUVU https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...zFXS3pQR2gtSEk https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...VVOOU9raUJDTm8 https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...W5DREp3R2UwRzg At the end I decided to split the bronze ring and make a one-piece inner bearing ring. https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...kgydXdMVmYwbU0 Finally, everything fits. https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...W1WelFVUVlJNUk Making of The bronze rings were made first, to allow for easy test fitting with the other rings. https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...DAtWEZsV1FDMms https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...GRDSWVWNG9KdEk https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...GxDWVVjUXRQSVU https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...UF6dWlDQjNVaWc The main outer ring portions being parted off. https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...npaS0J3cnE3aXM https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...3ZXa0dmVEN3YTQ Test fitting during grinding. https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...XptemFJVmxHa2M The stub was barely long enough for machining the other outer ring portions. https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...kVpaXRadjVtYTA I hate making thin things. Either you have this rather insecure and hard to adjust grip or you have to make a jig. https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...WVVRVd0TExGVEE https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...HZOemotVUZyb2c This threading apparatus is really an excellent tool. https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...E9wSzBmRHF5b28 Thanks for looking. Stefan |
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Once again, excellent job Stefan. I don't have any more words to praise your work:)
About the threading apparatus for how small tap can adjust it ? |
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Your skills are amazing ,a true artist.
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As to your question: My device from Vertex (VTA12-JT6) officially takes M3 to M12, but I just test inserted an M2 (shaft dia. 2.9 mm) and an M2.5 (shaft dia. 2.7 mm [sic]) and that seems to work too (for the M2 only the threaded portion was visible). For the smaller taps the lower limit of the adjustable torque might be too high, but I still think it would work for M2 in aluminum. According to the user instruction there´s a smaller model (VTA7-JT6) for M2 to M8. Stefan |
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May I ask where did you by yours ? |
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You´re welcome. I bought mine from Wabeco at a fair, but since then I saw it much cheaper (for 199€ - 30% off) somewhere else (don´t remember where), so search carefully.
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Can imagine it served you well during the excavator track build ;)
I on the other hand haven´t spent much time in the workshop lately :( (My wife had some other plans for "us" and the house after the summer, something which will still take some months). Could occasionally sneak into the workshop, but have only managed to turn the end caps and started making the front inserts for the cylinders. https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...DNIejBHaXJqVmM What looks like a shadow in the right uppermost (finished) insert is actually an O-ring (11/1 mm). https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...3lQd0hXb21rXzA Stefan |
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This is definitely a build to watch I love the detail I must say all you guys that work with a lathe and milling machines are very talented
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Sorry "speedy8305" and everyone else, it has not been so much to watch lately, but I did manage to make some more parts for the cylinders.
Here the circle drive cylinder parts. Only the cylinder brackets are still missing. Of all cylinders I´d like to finish the circle drive cylinders first in order to be able to perform tests and find out whether the control valve can be made to scale (if at all :confused:). https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...nVhVG9Ickd0U2s https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...i11dVZuckJvZVU https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...WRWa3pZSTJsbDg https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...UpBLWZLMzEtUkE Stefan |
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Stefan, nice to see that you started building again, looking forward doing an inspection locally maybee in april!
Are all the "white" parts made in Delrin? /Dan |
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