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Re: Great Dane excavating co.
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Re: Great Dane excavating co.
Misprint on the one post, the gearbox is 4:1, 4:1, 3:1 and diff is 3:1, 1200kv motor on 11.1v Lipo, 144:1 reduction. 13320rpm on motor , axle will be 92.5 rpm. Now i don't know what the motor will actually spin. Kv is not an exact science and these TP motors are cheep so the windings very well could be off a couple hundred at most. And with such a big motor I really don't want to be maxing it out on top end. I think the power will be there and I can limit speed with radio if needed.
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you need a large cat under the hood. just so
happens you know where there is one..... |
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Hummm, get Brian to print that engin around my motor, or I'm stuffing this "shop cat" that keeps jumping on my lap in there!!!
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http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...psg7tnngxx.jpg
That's what I'm talking about!! Something wrong with this cat!! It just stares at me like that!!! http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...psk1j4c2mg.jpg Had one shot to get the spacing and brazing on this, I think I got both:) http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...pslen1ctti.jpg Probably don't need the bearing there but doing it anyway. Two bearings just inside the block on shaft. The exposed one will be in diff housing. It will also add to the integrity of the mounting. http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...pshpft0h1b.jpg This "should" be beefy enough, I'm thinking. |
Re: Great Dane excavating co.
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...pswaocqioh.jpg
Got some bearings, not sure who makes them? Butt I was thinking of you mark, when you asked what the gear shaft was for. HAHAHAHAH |
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Just couldn't help myself ,,, again,, I know back to the garage i go.
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all my bearings say paccar on the box those must be english bearings
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I guess those are rear end bearings? |
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Does no look strait to me.........................:lol:
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did you use enough presure when insertting the bearing ?
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Question for you guys, I don't do much turning on steel,, feed is .005 rpm is 200. This is what the chips look like. I know I can push it to getting ideal blue chips, just want some advise on speeds n feeds.
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...psnn9egj8o.jpg http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...pslknnratz.jpg At this rate I will be here for a day, have to take gearstock from about 1.2" down to .3125". I may go with shaft and keyway but then I have to broach gears. Wanted to keep one piece shaft and gear. Lathe is 10x22 variable speed. Using insert cutter. Or is it no matter what going to be timely? I just don't know with steel cutting. |
Re: Great Dane excavating co.
That gear stock material is really nice to machine. You may want to put a center hole and use the tail stock for better support. You should be able to hog more off faster.
As far as taking all day; It's a hobby you aren't making any money and its the fun of doing this. I would go with the one piece gear and shaft. Less worry, besides by the time you make a shaft key it bore the gear and broach you will have way more time than just turning the gear stock. |
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Forgot to mention, More feed may push the gear into your collet. Do you have a stop in it?
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No stop, but I did center hole and live center. That was one thing I was worried about, pushing the shaft. I turned a piece of alum and cut it into three for a soft jaw. Clamped down pretty good but still having the teeth there. Have been checking it a couple times.
Yeah, I've got more time than anything :). Thanks Steve, see you in a couple weeks? |
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Yeah I need to start getting stuff around for the show also. Messed up my shoulder with work stuff, can't lift above my head so hand cranking wheels at home has been therapy :). You are right about that gear stock being easy to cut. I guess I base my steel experience on hardware store stock. Doesn't cut well, and never a good finish. Last project I got steel ordered, easy to machine kind. Slowly learning to get the correct materials to make the job easier. That shaft wasn't bad to cut :) my inexperience showing again:).
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...psuhhsyb3f.jpg http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...psdvuzqy6g.jpg The smaller gear on shaft is the one inserted into gearbox, it will be keyed to shaft. Top gear will be connected to a driveshaft. Only hard part now is getting the correct spacing on gears into gear housing. |
Re: Great Dane excavating co.
Lookin good! When I built the rears for my 850 KW I used a piece of regular paper sandwiched between the gear mesh and then took the measurement for the spacing. Gear lash seamed to be pretty good and hasn't given me any grief just yet.
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Nice...well done!!!
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its starting to look like something! what are you building again??
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http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...pstipicmiv.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5l2srwyb.jpg http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...psffthqgnn.jpg Brazed an end onto the final driveshaft. Had to make the end a bit bigger diameter so no slop would be in the diff ends. Some play, and the bronze is a bushing for shaft to rotate in. No weight on that just torque, figured a bushing would help guide it. http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...psecurjonk.jpg Internal and external snap rings will "lock" the bearings to hub and driveshaft housing. Now all the lateral forces will be eliminated from hub. That's what I'm working on next. Wanted to broach a hex pocket in hub,,, but way too much $ for rotary broaching. So most likely set screws or locking pin. |
Re: Great Dane excavating co.
What size hex are you trying to broach?
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Through hole or blind hole for your broaching ? You can make your hexes on the rotary on the mill if they are blind hole ;) . If through hole, a hex broach similar to your key broaches aren't that expensive .
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Was thinking around 5/16. If I went the broaching way I would make the female part out of steel not alum. That would be the wheel hub cap. 1 , I don't have 2.5" steel stock, 2, not my favorite material to work with using small size drills/mills. (If I used the rotary table ).
I don't think a steel hex shaft would last too long in a aluminum socket, do you guys? Referring to the aluminum wearing quick, developing slop. What's your guys opinion on making the female hex socket in alum? My thoughts are on this small size 5/16 or 1/4" it wouldn't last. Or would a square hole be better? That is if I don't just go with set screws and a flat spot. |
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i think your best bet is the K.I.S.S method
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Is this for a drive hex similar to the trucks ? If so , .3125" is a lil small . The more surface area the better . Steel to alum. should be an issue if you go bigger other then the reaction you get when steel and alum are mated ( can recall the term :confused:)
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Re: Great Dane excavating co.
I decided to go with set screws, I have three equally spaced radially onto drive shaft. Using cone point set screws and will make small divits into shaft for added security. The shaft is just rotational force, retaining rings internal and external lock bearings to not allow wheel hub assembly to slide off.
She finally is showing signs of life, a temporary heartbeat from dewalt but some forward progress,,,,,,,, http://youtu.be/zE10GtlxjUo |
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Looking sweet RW. You got me all excited! :D
Ok now, minus the drill, what does that completed rear axle assembly weigh? :bounce: |
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Wow:jaw:nice! Thanks for posting about Fusion 360 on the other thread, I'd thought about going after it and after reading your post last night I downloaded it and spent most of my free time today watching the tutorials.
Can't wait to see more of your truck come together:bounce::D |
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I forget who told me last year about fusion 360 at cabin fever, thanks to them!! And Brian made a good point about learning with it, it's top of the line stuff so any updates in future I'll already have learned and will be easy to use.
Mario, you ready for this????????? http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5f7athom.jpg |
Re: Great Dane excavating co.
For you north of the border (or if pic isn't clear) it's 13.64 kg
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So for the guys south of the north border with piss poor eye sight and a slightly out focus number that's 30 lbs? What is the 1.2? :lol:
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30 pounds 1.2 ounces :) translates to BFT. BIG FUN TRUCK!! lol :). She may be a bit on the plus side model.
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Amazing, so all up may be around 75 to 100 pounds?
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It would be nice to keep it around 80#, easier to carry around. Or should I say lift:(
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