Re: First build ,cat D11
 

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...psa1b0389e.jpg

Well it looks like a dozer.

Re: First build ,cat D11
 

Looking good! Keep it up!
Cheers, Neil.

Re: First build ,cat D11
 

Very nice!

What kind of tools/machines do you have avail for this build?

Re: First build ,cat D11
 

My toolbox is pretty light, a hammer and vice grips. :). I'll take some pics of the shop tools to show you.

Re: First build ,cat D11
 

Looking good. Love your detail work. How heavy do you think this beast will be when done ?

Re: First build ,cat D11
 

Great job! You are proving that with talent, you don't need a bunch of fancy equipment to turn out a fantastic model! Very inspiring!

Re: First build ,cat D11
 

Atomic, this is most of the tools / machines I have. In a previous post I have shown the mill and lathe.
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7458409b.jpg

This is the wire welder I have and that saw that I've been using to cut the sheet metal is that Rockwell thing. It's like a scroll saw, pushing it to cut metal.

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...psc53e1c7f.jpg

Drill press (rarely used) the lathe and mill.
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...pse2e04125.jpg

And this is the brake, shear, roller unit I recently purchased. Was originally going to get a 12" one but Xmas gift card helped with the larger more $ version.

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...ps2cadc1cc.jpg

Re: First build ,cat D11
 

Oops, azonic, spell checker auto interfered. :) not atomic.

Re: First build ,cat D11
 

How do you like the 3 in 1 machine? I have been looking at a big one but I am a little apprehensive to spend 2k on a machine that does everything but nothing well. I guess I am most interested in knowing how well the shear works?

Reg

Re: First build ,cat D11
 

I'm curious about that too, I'll try and put everything that I have so far on the scale and get an idea.

And I know it looks like I'm a big fan of grizzly tools, not really as they are just rebranded from the original. But the muncy grizzly store and warehouse is basically in my backyard. So shipping is not an issue as that usually ends up less expensive that other models. There stuff is good however and I'm happy with my purchases. (Once I figure out how to use them. !!)

Re: First build ,cat D11
 

The shear could use a little refinement, on full with pieces a couple quick jerks on the Handel shears a pretty clean edge. But I've only cut 22 guage steel. One piece of aluminum and it felt like butter. Took me a couple hours to adjust everything but then again I didn't know what I was doing. I don't have any other experience to compare to but for what I've done so far I think its a quality piece.

Re: First build ,cat D11
 

Good to know, thanks. Is that a 30"?

Re: First build ,cat D11
 

hey cooper i love your build. im looking into starting my own but i am looking to do a cat 345d. was wondering if i could get some insight from you?

Re: First build ,cat D11
 

Appreciate your request but my lack of experience might not be the best of opinions. This is my first build involving any type of production of equipment.

Re: First build ,cat D11
 

I started building the hydro parts. I'm making the pistons out of aluminum, it doesn't have any contact anywhere. Do you guys think it would be better to use brass, as I don't want to contaminate the oil, or is that the case when aluminum has contact with something? I'm using brass for the cylinder and stainless for shafts. Honed and polished. The piston has two o-rings , more for guides, and one x-ring for the seal. And the rod seal will consist of a actual seal with o-ring for a wiper, or x-ring.
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...ps47cc2713.jpg

Re: First build ,cat D11
 

You look like you're on the right track... my Vario cyls use a aluminum piston too & the oil stays relatively clean for 50+ hrs.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...ps67a45c14.jpg

Re: First build ,cat D11
 

Very nice work on the cylinders. You have a Very nice shop. I see you are coming along very nicely on the dozer great job. Ed

Re: First build ,cat D11
 

Thanks guys, anyone have some pics easily accessible of the rod seal end? I'm working on that today, had to make a internal grooving bit. I assume you want the rod hole to be as tight as possible? Of course some clearance. I have x-ring seals, o-ring seals and actual 1/4" seals. The 1/4" seals have an id of 1/4 and a od of 1/2". No way am I getting that seal into a 1/4" hole for an internal groove. I'm thinking of making a wider portion of the cylinder with basically a washer, with a standoff for the inlet port. So the piston doesn't top out past the inlet port. Then a plug cap bolted on. That way I could use the better seal and just push it in. The plug cap would also get a wiper and oring on the outside for like I guess a gland seal? Not sure if that is right. All sounds complicated but is pretty simple and will be easiest to install.

Re: First build ,cat D11
 

Aluminum for pistons are fine as long as you can keep it from making contact with the tube.

I built race car dampers for 10 years and the dampers were made with aluminum or steel tubes with aluminum pistons.

Some pistons had just 2 grooves cut for a slide ring and an o ring. That's all that was needed to keep fluid from snaking past.

The cover for the rod to exit thru can consist a few ways. Use of a single x style oring can be used with limited seapage past the rod, most dampers i built had a backing oring with step seals and dust ring. Thesis more complex but less dirt can get in...

If you have any questions I will gladly help..

Re: First build ,cat D11
 

This is the little internal grooving tool I had to make. It cuts brass very clean and easy. It's small enough to squeez into a .30" hole.
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...psc22716a6.jpg

Re: First build ,cat D11
 

Ok this is what I've come up with.

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...psbdce6c34.jpg

Originally I wanted to use these seals, little more robust, a little better sealing. But,,,,, the od is just slightly larger than the id of my tube. And they are just too big to be squeezing into a 1/4" shaft hole. (Id is .25, od is 1/2") things got more complex and seeing what others use I'm going to go with the o-rings and one x-ring for the seal.

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...psf4375432.jpg

The tube is necked down just so I have more allowance for bolt pattern for the cap. Piston has three rings, bolted with m4 screw. The rod seals are internal but the three are what go inside. Trying to have the last oring close to end to act as much as a dust seal/wiper.

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...ps984639f5.jpg

This is cylinder top. This is just a mock (f-up) up of what will be made. The shaft hole is too large, I'm using 1/4" shaft and making the passage hole .30. So a couple hundredths of clearance. Does this look, sound, seam, like it will work? The rings will be loaded, squeezed into the groves when shaft is installed making the right seal. I don't know what to expect as I'm not familiar with these pressures or anything whatsoever with hydraulics. I did test one on a blind hole with some coolant and about standing on it when seal let loose and shot coolant to ceiling. I'm thinking that should be good for 100-150 psi? It's a dozer so I don't think I need the pressure like an excavator. What bar/psi am I among for ?

Re: First build ,cat D11
 

Oh and the end of the cylinder with bolt pattern will be drilled and tapped first before being silver soldered to shaft. Little easier to work on a 1/2" piece rather than an 8" piece vertically to drill.

Re: First build ,cat D11
 

.05" is too much IMO . If going .25 ram stay like .2525"-.255" max .I run .0025" on mine. and still feels sloppy .

Re: First build ,cat D11
 

Ok thanks, pretty close tolerance then. One more question, I know I said 1/4 shafts for the hydraulics but after looking at it and holding it in position in model the 3/8 shafts look better. I can't really find specs for cylinders to compare 1:1 scale. I know I already made pistons and they could be used or new ones made. They are easy. Is it better to have more space in the cylinder or less? I would think less as less oil would be need for lower volume. ??? Love this forum and thanks for the help as this is new for me. I did purchase a 5 valve block and pump from premacon. Don't know how to make one of them. But once I get one then I can redneck reverse engineer it !!lol!,

Re: First build ,cat D11
 

.3125" would look more prototypical but the .25" will work . what is your bore ? .375" may be to big . In theory , your only picking up the weight of the blade so your not going to need much volume .

here's a lil calculator I pulled off the net . type in your bore , PSI , and rod dia and that will give you what your cylinder can do for given amount of pressure .
http://www.baumhydraulics.com/calculators/cyl_calc.htm

Re: First build ,cat D11
 

Thanks, that works out well.

Re: First build ,cat D11
 

Here is a small portion of the machining work that goes into one part.
Stock cutoff
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9adb380b.jpg

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...ps93f3db6e.jpg
Lathe work with a four jaw chuck. Making the rotation shaft and a groove for a set screw as a retainer mechanism.

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...ps17527b89.jpg
Cutting out the way for hydraulic cylinder and pivot pins. To be honest and probably reflective of a lot of scratch builds this piece was tossed. As once the pin holes were drilled I realized they were going to be too close and no clearance for pivoting of the cylinder. So back to cut, lathe, groove,,,,,

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...psaf18a04e.jpg
Cutting the pivot blocks

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...ps502ddd38.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...ps33603f3b.jpg
Cutting the angle on bottom

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...ps12cf2761.jpg
Redneck cad drawling.

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...psa7348e8d.jpg
Center drilling pilot hole and referencing hole locations

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...psbc338950.jpg
Clearance drilling for 2-56 bolt

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5abc882b.jpg
Tap drilling for 2-56 bolt. I know most drill smaller through hole first but I didn't want the bit to stray. On such a small drill bit a deep hole can drift off course more easily, so that is why I drilled the clearance hole first.

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9f3c795d.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...ps53312a1e.jpg
Using the slitting saw to part off the pivot carrier.

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...ps362996c4.jpg
Cleaning up sharp edges and holes

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...psb5f1e634.jpg
Tapping 2-56 holes

And finally the unprinted part
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9348cc9b.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...pse676654a.jpg

I know someone wanted to see some of the process so,, all that and double it :)

Re: First build ,cat D11
 

Yeah, thanx Cooper for taking the time to take the pics & post them up... I know how time consuming that in itself can be. ;) How much time clocked to make those two parts?

I made a simple clevis hitch the other day from a block of aluminum... I really got focused at what I was doing & did it all the milling & drilling in one sitting, I'm embarrassed to say how many hrs it took... maybe a mill of your size with its rigidity & digital readouts would have cut the time in half - especially with the use of a slitting saw.

I never heard of a slitting saw or knew of its use in a mill till you mentioned it a few pgs back, what a great tool accessory! I've always used a hacksaw & as hard as I try, never do I even get it unnoticeably crooked. :(

What spd do you run it at? What's the thickness of that particular blade? And is it specific for cutting aluminum?

99% of the holes I drill/tap are 3mm and I have always drilled once with 2.5mm bit b/c bit wonder for me is indeed a problem to go bigger than 1st hole, especially with aluminum.

Also, the blade in your chop saw, what is that? Does it cut the aluminum bar perpendicular with 99.9% accuracy?

Re: First build ,cat D11
 

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...ps2e1495fe.jpg

Some pics of the hydra cylinders.

Lil giants , I'll get some info and give ya some answers later tonight.

Re: First build ,cat D11
 

Level blade, not worrying about blade carry or dump as it is short amount of travel but it was tested for range of motion and all worked out.
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...ps35660753.jpg

Three inches of blade lift from level

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...pse532bf94.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...psf0295048.jpg

Blade tilt left and right. I m hoping that I can possibly use a aircraft radio mix that will allow limited range of tilt in relation to lift of blade. I think it is possible as it's pretty far tilt from max to max I between cylinders and presses limits of components.
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7a16126e.jpg

And two inches of digging depth. 1:1 depth is 30" so that's close, (I think)?

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...pscbdbb7d8.jpg

Re: First build ,cat D11
 

Uhh, I just realized they are valves and not the servos that actuate the cylinders. I guess if I had limit sensors it's possible but I'm not going that far. I guess I'll just have to keep an eye on how much I tilt and not let Dennis the menus play with it. :).

Re: First build ,cat D11
 

Lol, time? Uhhhh,, yea half hour,,,, well all said and done I would think I had about 3hours in them. It wasn't all at once so hard to tell and the second part was about 2/3 less time than the first as I knew what I was doing for the second one.

The slitting saw, my experience is that are somewhat of a mystery to some. I've only used on aluminum. Lots of coolant and definitely not milling speeds. Usually slower speed and slow feed. Lots of coolant. I like to use it for parts as I can make one big part and then have two. Some of those small parts are hard to work. That blade I think was .063? 1/16.

The chop saw is as accurate as the chop table there. The blade is for metal, cuts pretty good. Most metal saws are slow. Using a chop saw is more for abrasive cutting. But you can't abrasive cut alum. Loud dirty mean machine but cuts aluminum stock like butter. Doesn't leave a finish cut but cuts pretty square. Like I said it will cut as square as you can adjust the clamp table to blade. Plan on spending about $80-100 on a blade if you want it to cut. Any carbide tipped circular saw blade will cut aluminum. Trick is in the heat. If it heats up too fast too much it will immediately dull. A dull blade will burn up the saw. Not saying to cut alum with your circular saw but just putting in perspective,,, and this blade is metal specific.

Re: First build ,cat D11
 

Oh and I broke down and ordered pump, valve block and some fittings from premacon. Was hoping to make my own but first time thing, I need to have one in hand and understand how it works. Pricey little package coming from overseas. Kinda a bitter sweet little box in the mail.

Re: First build ,cat D11
 

Looking good so far Cooper, Can't wait to see some more photo of what you have been working on.

Re: First build ,cat D11
 

You wanted some doggie pics,, don't let my wife hear that,, she will flood your email!!!! Lol,, the toys are my domain and the dogs are hers. :)

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...ps8bfa2466.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...psab86acc5.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...ps8cc98459.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...ps376a87fc.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...psafccb2ee.jpg

The Irish wolfhound is almost 4 years, the Great Dane is one year old. And he is a teenager in the worst ways!!!!

Re: First build ,cat D11
 

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...psb87e6969.jpg

That's me, Ira and my boy that is no longer with us, Cooper. My name is R.W. Actually, and Cooper was the Danes name. :)

Re: First build ,cat D11
 

Cooper, thanks for sharing all the photos and information of the machining process! Sometimes I think I can learn way more just by seeing how all of you skilled machinists make the parts that you do. It might make me feel like the things I make are kindergarten projects, but hey, I'm okay with that. Seeing your work can give me something to shoot for. Great job on your D11. The pictures of your dogs are very sharp images. Someone must have some good photography skills too, an awesome camera, and some well behaved dogs!

Re: First build ,cat D11
 

I'll try and include some more machining processes if ya want. I think I have these hydraulic seals figured out. Trying to figure the tolerances for the x rings so they are compressed some but not too much was a bit of trial n error. This is the lift cylinders done. I still have to install a set screw for the retaining pin on the side of machine. I think I'll do it on the inside so it wouldn't be noticeable.
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9e424afa.jpg

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...ps24049ba0.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...ps2dc53982.jpg

The lift cylinders and the blade dump cylinders (tilt I guess)

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...psdad48829.jpg
And some extra parts I guess :). Had some learning curves. Don't mink with the aluminum but brass starts to get expensive. Not to mention the pile of chips :)

Re: First build ,cat D11
 

Made the air intakes.
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...psb252c306.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...psc4d3995a.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...psb1032b4e.jpg
Had to throw this one in, every time the mill/lathe stops a cat jumps in my lap!! Tried to shop-vac up his tail but that only worked for a couple days :)
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...psfaa45d5a.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/...ps62976ad7.jpg
And made some of the hand rail and hand holds.

Re: First build ,cat D11
 

great work - looking forward to the finished item!