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Classy Shak
Hello, for those of you that know of me from the other forum I will spare you the 9 pages of BS and planning stuff.
I still have not got my KH yet, however Rick (Rogue) gave me a cab and an extra sleeper, and other parts about a year or so ago. I have had a heck of a year and am just now getting around to starting on the build. I started this build by drawing up the truck on the computer. I changed a thing here and there till I came up with exactly what I wanted. Believe me it is worthy of the term "Large Car... Or condo which ever.. http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s.../MyKHFront.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...k/MyKHBack.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s.../MyKHSide2.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...ak/MyKHTop.jpg The bumper to back of sleeper will be 20" (280" Scale) and the frame will be 35" (490" Scale) The bunk "House" will be a 144" ARI inspired sleeper. |
Re: Classy Shak
I spent countless hours today sanding, filling, sanding ect.. The hood, the cab other small parts here and there.
Well lets see today I built the rear sleeper door out of the side doors from both the stock sleepers. http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...%20Shak/32.jpg I did some more work on the cab. I got the top done. and cut the blind spot window in the right door. http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...%20Shak/29.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...%20Shak/30.jpg I also made a little more progress on the hood.. Well I am done with the hood basically with the exception of a little sanding on the inside tomorrow. I Will be painting the inside of the hood complete with the graphics that will be on the side so I had to clean up the underside of the hood with some styrene and putty, I need to sand the putty tomorrow and then install the styrene on the inside of the fenders to. http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...%20Shak/31.jpg Now being that this is going to be a slightly larger sleeper than stock, I figured that it will need a good A/C system so I made a rooftop cooler. http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...%20Shak/33.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...%20Shak/34.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...%20Shak/35.jpg And then for that down time, a satellite dome. http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...%20Shak/36.jpg At least I found a use for one of those plastic Easter eggs, or three rather, It's not easy to cut them things straight. http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...%20Shak/37.jpg Now all I need is for my styrene to get hear and then I can start building the sleeper. The bummer part is that once I get that finished I will be out of things to build till I get my KH bought. There is a lot of fabrication that needs to be done, but I need it sitting on a frame and suspension, I ordered the frame from Joe the other day but I still need it siting on it's own. -Mike |
Re: Classy Shak
Hey All!!
I really didnt like the first A/C unit so I built another one. http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...%20Shak/40.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...%20Shak/41.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...%20Shak/42.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...%20Shak/43.jpg Now I got the doors cut off and I am just waiting on my hinges so that I can do my "Special" opening doors. Rick (Rogue) sent me a box of goodies the other day (Thanks Buddy) and among them was some Wedico seats. I wanted these cause they look sooooo much better than the Tamiya seats. So I got them but in temporarily of course, because I still have to make the Marble floor.... http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...%20Shak/38.jpg Also in the package was one headlight for fitting purposes... If you look at the original drawings I was going to mount the headlights on a tube that went in front of the grill. I scratched this idea after getting my hands on the headlights I am going to use. Instead I decided to put them on the side of the hood. Now the lights come with a short tube (Mounting Bracket ?) so I tried them with that first. http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...%20Shak/48.jpg And was not to sure about them. So I then tried it with out the tube, right against the hood. http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...%20Shak/49.jpg I liked this better but think they need a little space between them and the hood. So Rick suggested that I use a cone washer. Boy that Rick...... He is good for an idea now and again.:D:D I decided to tackle the grill last night (because non of my supplies have got here yet, so i have nothing else to do), I removed the bars and built up the inside so that the grill would be moved forward in the grill shell where it is supposed to be. http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...%20Shak/50.jpg I then made new bars and installed them, then gave the Bare Metal Foil a shot... Nice stuff, I just wish it looked more like chrome. Here is what I got... Not 100% on it so might be ordering a new grill and going at it again. http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...%20Shak/57.jpg Well hopefully all my stuff will be here Monday so that i can get started on the house.... I mean sleeper... -Mike |
Re: Classy Shak
Howwwdy..
Well today I decided I wanted to lay some marble tile in the cab... WOW do you know how hard it is to find 1:14 marble tiles... Ok it's impossible so I had to make it my self... Man that is a pain in the butt, you got any idea how hard it is to cut marble let alone into that small of pieces..:D:D:D Well actually I am going to share with you how I did it.. Step one: Get some Transparency Film. Like the stuff they used for the overhead projectors. Cover one side completely with blue painters tape to protect that side from any paint over spray. http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...%20Shak/58.jpg Step two: Chose a few similar colors in different shades. I used Poly-scale paints. They are water based. I used SCL Hopper Car Beige, and Earth. Then you need a Stone color, or a darker gray color. I used a special paint for making stone scenery on a RR layout.. (Might as well, I got thousands of $ worth of RR stuff filling 16 good sized boxes in the basement, why not use some of it) Take the lighter color first, dip a fairly soft brush in the paint and then tap the brush on your other hand about 6-8 inches above the film. This will cause droplets on the film. Then I took my air gun on the compressor and blew the droplets in basically one direction. Repeat this with the second color. Then when that is all done cover the entire thing with the gray color. when it's dry turn it over and remove the tape and see you marble. http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...%20Shak/59.jpg Step three: In order for it to look like tile you have to make it tile... 1:14 scale is roughly 13/16 for a scale foot... Get cutting. http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...%20Shak/60.jpg Step four: Take some of this stuff. http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...%20Shak/71.jpg Before you pull the backing off of it in the front side draw your grid to help aid in the placement of the tiles.. This stuff is EXTREMELY Sticky. if you put a tile on it you will most likely not get it off.. In fact I tried one and I got the acetate off but the paint stayed on the sticky paper... http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...%20Shak/61.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...%20Shak/62.jpg Step five: Spray both the underside of the now completed flooring and the floor you intend to tile, with spray glue. Super 77 is the best. Allow to set for a minute then put the two together.. Step six: Trim to fit. http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...%20Shak/63.jpg I then added the seats and made the Gear shift floor cover. Next I added the shift boots.. YES BOOTS the "S" belongs there.. This is a real truck after all... http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...%20Shak/64.jpg I then made the much beloved (In my book anyway) Peterbilt cup holder stand. http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...%20Shak/70.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...%20Shak/65.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...%20Shak/69.jpg There Ya go.. scale marble flooring... If ya don't have the budget for marble then you can make linoleum. Just first don't blow the colors with the air gun and second don't cut it up. Just glue it to the floor hole.. -Mike |
Re: Classy Shak
Ok now there is no better way to visualize the magnitude of this truck without seeing it.
So I got the rails today. They are 35" long that's a 490" wheel base I believe. http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...%20Shak/72.jpg Those are stock KH rails next to mine. http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...%20Shak/82.jpg The box is the proper length but a little higher than the sleeper will be. However it is just under 13'6" as it sits... There is still 13" of frame behind the sleeper. that's 182" 15" http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...%20Shak/80.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...%20Shak/79.jpg -Mike |
Re: Classy Shak
Howdy all.
Ok a few posts back I said that I was going to do something special with the doors and that is why I cut them out.. Now I am sure some of you were thinking... "What a moron, don't he know several guys have made opening doors." Well YES I do know that.. However have they ever made them like this.... SUICIDE DOORS http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...%20Shak/83.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...%20Shak/85.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...%20Shak/84.jpg If some one has done suicide doors, I have not seen the model. -Mike |
Re: Classy Shak
I started building the sleeper this evening. (wait yesterday evening since it's now Monday)
I started the day off getting my doors hung, and then I made some big pipes!!! http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...%20Shak/90.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...%20Shak/88.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...%20Shak/86.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...%20Shak/87.jpg I'm starting to think that I am going to have to lower the truck from stock, not sure if that would be a good thing with the length though. At least it should not get high centered on anything at stock height. -Mike |
Re: Classy Shak
Hi All..
Well I got the sleeper built. It measures 12"L (168") x 6"H (84") x 65/8" W (92.75") http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/107.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/106.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/105.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/104.jpg I built a mock-up step so that I can get the running boards built as well as the hood. http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/108.jpg It's moving right along for now. I need to take a break, or rather I should say I need my wallet to take a break from it for the rest of the year though, with the holiday's here. -Mike |
Re: Classy Shak
Howdy!!!
Well another day gone to modeling. Today I got a lot done. The problem is I am running out of cheap things to do... I almost have all the styrene work done. I have the hood to finish and then the running boards and rear fenders, but can't do that till I have some suspension.. Well to day I built the whale tail, both boxes, mocked up some fuel tanks out of a paper towel roll and hung them with the stock tank hangers Rick (Rouge) gave me. The funny thing is a paper towel roll is exactly the size I need.. Except to short. I cut it in two and got 5.5" tanks and I need 8" tanks. Or probably some 5" fuel tanks and 3" water tanks. http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/118.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/116.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/117.jpg The light bars I will be making are 1/4" so I built the boxes so they hang 3/8" below the bottom edge of the sleeper. http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/120.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/121.jpg The boxes are built so that they will be flush with the side of the house... I was thinking of making them open but I really don't want the un-sightly hinges messing up the view. I will probably cover these with the Parma Chrome.. or I might get them made out of billet. I plan on mounting the switches in the left box so I did not build a back on them. http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/114.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/123.jpg -Mike |
Re: Classy Shak
Howdy..
Well I got the engine stripped, no more of that ugly yellow paint...:D Travis don't worry man.. the best engines come in yellow, I believe that with all my heart... Well except the ones that come behind the Blue Oval..;);) I find it amazing at the level of detail Norscott put into this engine. It looks like a real block with no paint on it yet. http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/137.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/140.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/139.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/138.jpg The oil pan, valve covers, and exhaust manifold will be chromed. (polished really). http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/142.jpg Got to sand the manifold still. Well I also got the stuff for my fenders and got the inner fender spacers made, I got the fenders cut as far as I could. Now I am at a dead point. I need cross members, a front suspension, and nuts and bolts before I can really do anything else. -Mike |
Re: Classy Shak
Hi Gent's,
Ok well I had to play some more to day. I decided I did not want to lose any of the details from the engine, like the oil filter ect. But at the same time I wanted, and needed, the engine to be lower in the frame, thus the reason for turning the oil pan. I accomplished this by notching out the frame, not like some have done where they just notch out for the oil filter. That would not have been enough to get the engine low enough in the frame. I was not sure it was going to work so rather than screw up my new rails, I used some stock ones that I got from Semi Joe.(Thanks Joe) http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/149.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/150.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/151.jpg I then made the front motor mount like they real things. http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/153.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/155.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/154.jpg This got the motor sitting right where I want it. I just hope it will clear the axle... If anyone with a stock height KH could measure from the bottom of the frame to the top of the axle and let me know what it is, I would appreciate it. I am sitting 1 1/32 from the bottom of the frame to the drain plug, which is the lowest point that could interfere. http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/152.jpg NOW FOR SOME REAL DETAIL Well someone, I think it was Paul, mentioned the detail I was putting into this truck. I made the comment back that he had not seen anything yet.. Well maybe the following will show the level I am going for. I have seen a bunch of pics of these trucks with this engine in it but I have yet to see one with this kind of detail... Oh ya and this is JUST the start. Still to come a Radiator, Air-to-Air cooler with all appropriate plumbing, Engine Fan with fan belt. Notice that there is now only one turbo.... None of that Acert crap... This is a real C15 polluting, fuel guzzling, hill climbing Kitty Cat.... :D:D:D http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/156.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/158.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/157.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/159.jpg The detail I plan on putting in here is the main reason why I added the inch to the hood originally, Well that did not work out so I had to set the engine back into the cab a bit. Judging from the pictures of Semibigrigger's install. I only moved mine back about 1/4 to 3/8 farther back than his. And he was still able to put in that full dashboard and kick panel.. Beside It will give me a place to put some chrome and some light and make it so that you can see the reflection of the back of the motor.. Stay Tuned... -Mike |
Re: Classy Shak
Hi All!!..
I did a little more detail work on the engine today. I scratch built a fan for it. Mounted it and used a real fan belt. http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/163.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/167.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/166.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/165.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/164.jpg The blades at the widest are 5/8 so if I did the math right that would be 8.75" so they are just right. Rough measurements leaves me just under 7/8" from fan to end of hood. There should still be enough room for the radiator and air-to-air cooler. -Mike |
Re: Classy Shak
I had a Brain storm, or at least I think I did. Hopefully when I tell ya what it is then it won't end up being a Brain Fart...:D:D
I went to a couple sites that were furnished by Steve on another thread. The site had all sorts of servos. Looking at the sizes and what Nate told me. I found a place to put the servo for the steering that would be completely trick.... BUT I have to ask questions because I have not got a clue at all about the RC part of this...Give me a train and DCC and I can do anything with it.. RC.... Not yet!! So my first question is.. Can you extend the shaft from the servo to the part that the steering link would connect to? Here is my idea.. If I can extend the shaft, and with the size of the servos. The best coolest place to put the servo would be Ready for this... Inside the engine.:cool::cool: The hole for the stand that the engine comes on would be a perfect place to put the thing through. I think just from eye-balling it it should be just slightly forward of the axle. So will this work, can it be done. I figure I will have to extend the shaft on the servo by about 1/2" max... Any and all comments and help please... -Mike |
Re: Classy Shak
Hello All,
Well today I built my mirror brackets. I modeled them after the 2006 to present brackets. All I need now are the mirrors. I even built the blind spot mirror "L" brackets. http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/171.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/170.jpg Nice and straight... http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/169.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/168.jpg Just like on the 1:1 trucks, all that sticks out past the sleeper is the mirror and the outside hoop. http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/172.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/173.jpg Making progress.. http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/175.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/174.jpg Got the sleeper ready for paint, and the cab is just about there. -Mike |
Re: Classy Shak
Howdy,
Well I got the paints picked out to day, and I got the painter at my families body shop to agree to help me paint the truck. (later got to finish it first) Since I can not find a paint chip of the color, I will post a pic of my 2006 "Award Winning" Pete show truck. I am using the same exact colors as on this truck. Boy I really loved this truck.. Some farmer in South Dakota owns it now, minus the sleeper. http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...ks/881-020.jpg And the inside with my 1st place plaque. http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...ks/881-011.jpg It's a little hard to see to much of the purple, but it is a stock Peterbilt color so we have the paint code for it at the shop... easy to make the painter says. This picture was taken in SLC at the SLC truck show August of 2006. The truck was just right at one year old. This was my third show truck that I built. (keep in mind I never owned any of them, I was just stupid enough to spend my hard earned money on them) I got this truck brand new (25 miles on her, plastic still on the seats, bed, and carpet in the sleeper) I was driving for one of this companies owner operators. He decided to pull his truck off their fleet and go back to running under his authority, so when he did that JFI asked me to stay with them, offered me more money and then bought me this brand new truck. The truck I was driving for the owner operator was also a show truck, my second one to be exact. This truck was bought straight white, no lights or anything else. They gave me the keys a phone number to the local Pete dealer, and a phone number to the man that did the vinyl graphics for the company, and then told me go have the paint, lights, and graphics done how I wanted them... I designed the graphics my self on this truck and had the finders painted this purple and all the lights put on it. In the second picture you see the peddles, I built those out of Red Oak. NO ONE but me ever drove this truck while I was assigned to it. The mechanics would have to do all the work on the truck either why I was there, or I would pull it in and then they would have to call me to come take it out or leave it inside till the next morning when I got there. The whole time I drove this truck to the best of my knowledge no one ever wore shoes inside the truck. First thing in the morning when I would get up I vacuumed the floors and seats, wiped down the dash, washed the windows inside and out, and then weather permitting I would use my California Duster on the paint, and every time I stopped I would dust it again. I was always anal about my trucks, and because of that I was always rewarded with new trucks. I have been driving for 23 year, and in that time I have had 19 brand new trucks all of which had never been driven other than at the factory and around the sales lot. These have been just about even between Pete's and W900's maybe just a few more Pete's. I know these trucks like the back of my hand, inside, out side, top to bottom, all I have to do is think of a part and I can see it in my mind. -Mike |
Re: Classy Shak
Howdy All!!!
Well today I think I lost it. I spent 6 hours building the radiator for the truck and the core of it won't even be easily seen. I used all but 1.5" of one 12 x 6 sheet of .010" styrene to build this. I first sent the sheet of styrene through my paper shredder to achieve several 9/32" wide strips. The strips came out with a slightly serrated edge which I left it gave quit a good effect. I then took some of the strips and chopped them up into 1/16" pieces. Then the fun began. I cut the other strips into pieces 2 1/4" long then welded 5 of the little piece to that then laid another strip on that and kept going from there till I had a core 1 1/4" high. ( I did this in two parts that is why the crooked line of the spacers :mad: But I am not re-doing it.) Then I built a fan shroud for it, and a top and bottom tank with the hose connection. (Bottom hose connection not shown in pictures) Now You have to look just right to see the core in the shroud and I am now going to build another one slightly narrower for the charge air cooler. So therefore when that is done you won't even be able to see the core on the radiator, but hey at least I know it's there and accurate, and now you all do as well..:cool: http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/177.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/176.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/179.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/178.jpg -Mike |
Re: Classy Shak
Well today I received an envelope from Lynn. (tc1cat)
I asked him to make me basically a brass washer 1/2" in diameter with a 2-56 hole in it. I needed this part to finish the air-to-air on the motor. Well with out pause Lynn got them made and to me. So today I got the air-to-air all but finished, I still need to build the core for the cooler it self, I got to wait till Friday when I can get to the hobby shop and get some .010 x .156" strips. (Two paper shredders but they both shred at 1/4") I got the case made last night. I got the mail today at 3pm and had this completed by 4:30. http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/182.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/185.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/183.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/184.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/190.jpg Lets see if anyone can explain this. Look in the last picture of the front of the engine looking in the end of the hood. Now look at the distance between the frame rail and the hood on both sides. The right side of the hood is closer to the frame rail, which means the hood is not sitting right. Now I have taken a straight edge and went from back of cab to the end of the hood on both sides and measured the gap at the point where the hood meets the cab. I get exactly the same measurement on both sides. I have measured the hood standing on end at the same locations on both sides of the hood and get exactly the same measurements. I have measured the new cowling where the hood meets it on both sides and get exactly the same measurement. I have taken a straight edge and placed it next to both frame rails and they are straight. I have measured under the cab from the same spot on both sides to the frame, Yup both the same also. No matter where I measure I come up with the same measurements on both sides of the truck, but the hood still don't fit square. If I move the hood over to where I got the same measurement at the front of the hood to frame then I have just slightly over a 32nd of an inch gap on the left side of the hood at the cowling. Anyone got any ideas? I also got the sleeper mounted finally. I made some L brackets out of brass and attached them on the outside of the frame using the top crossmember bolt and then attached them to the floor supports on the floor of the sleeper. Just like they did the old rigid mounted sleepers. I then got the stacks remounted with the mounts in the proper locations and used some aluminum cone washers as the spacers. It's hard to see in this picture but the stacks are flush on the outside with the side of the sleeper, and this time they are actually straight both up and down and front to back. Of course it is a good thing you can't see the part of the stack where the holes go. **** it only took me drilling 4 sets of holes to get it right.. Well 5 sets if you count the first ones I drilled. I must have been brain dead but the way I drilled the first holes, well lets put it like this. I could use them holes to mount the pipes to the front of the sleeper. -Mike |
Re: Classy Shak
Ok just figured out the hood problem. I actually looked at my pictures and saw it. The front of the hood is crooked. When I set it on a flat surface I get the same measurements on both sides form the ground up but when I take the straight edge and place it next to the hood I have a gap of almost a 16th at the top on the left side and at the bottom on the right side.
So how do I go about fixing that? -Mike |
Re: Classy Shak
good to see you back Mike ! The truck is looking great and the detail is nice i like the drink holder between the seats. I think your truck will be bad azzz when your done !
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Re: Classy Shak
Hi All!!
Been a long weekend. I got off Friday night at 11pm got home at 11:30 then had to put on the awesome little items I got in the mail that morning from Lynn. I got to bed at 5:30am and then got up at 8am and helped my brother move all day. I got home from that at 10pm and commenced to working on the truck till 7:30am at which time I went to bed, just to get woke up at 10am to go help the brother more. It is now 11:15pm and I am sitting here trying to catch up on the forum and then get some updates done. So here we go. Thursday I got a package from New Zealand that contained my front suspension. This is the one thing I was needing to get the fenders made and the hood attached. Then Friday morning I got a package from Lynn containing the mirrors I asked him to build for me. First the mirrors.. THANK YOU LYNN what can I say, I sent him a drawing of what I wanted along with a 1:1 picture and he sent me perfection. I could not be happier. http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/191.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/192.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/193.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/194.jpg In the above picture if you look at the blind spot mirror, I asked Lynn to make them convex so that I could polish them and then they would look like the real thing. Well I got an email back from Lynn saying that he was going to make them a little different than I originally wanted because on the 1:1 mirrors you can clearly see that the mirror is held in the case by a rubber gasket. So he was going to make them just like the 1:1's. Well I got the mirrors, they consisted of the case and the mirror insert. So that when I put them together they look like the mirror is inside the case.. Because they are....:cool::cool: Sorry I don't have any pictures of one completed yet but here is a picture that Lynn sent me when he was building them. ~Mike~ |
Re: Classy Shak
Next I moved on to finally mounting the sleeper. I was struggling with this one because I needed the sleeper to be perfectly centered and could not figure out how to assure that by drilling down through the floor and hitting the legs on the rails.
I solved this problem by making some L-brackets out of some brass angle and then attaching them to the top bolt on the cross members and then centering the sleeper to the frame and drilling up through the floor. Now keep in mind that I am mocking this up on a stock frame, then after everything fits I will transfer the holes to the new full length rails. So as you can imagine this requires me to assemble and dis-assemble the truck several times. I put it together work on an area and then take it apart and drill the rails on the drill press. After fighting with the rear motor mounts three or four times I finally wised up and soldered the bolts to the mount, now it takes a matter of a minute or so to pull and replace the motor. Here is the bottom of the sleeper. http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/206.jpg Next I was assembling the truck again after drilling some holes for the rear shackles on the front end, when I made the mistake of attaching both the cab floor and the sleeper floor first. Well because I did this, and with the way the pipes are built, I could not get the **** cab back on until I removed the sleeper floor again. So I figured I am not going to do this again, and I really wanted to get rid of the unsightly screws under the doors that hold the cab to the cab floor, so I redid the underside of the cab floor and made some L-brackets for it as well. I then drilled and tapped some holes on the front firewall and on the back of the cab in order to mount the cab to the floor.. Great idea, it works beautifully, just one thing... I still have to remove the sleeper floor to get the back screws out...:mad::mad: Oh well at least you can't see them. http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/207.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/205.jpg Now on to the front suspension. After picking Master Builder Brian's brain (wow look at that same letters just different order--no wonder he is so smart:D) I saw how he moved his front axle forward and thought that would work for me but I could not do it exactly like him because if you remember I have the clearance issue with the oil pan. Well what Brian did was to rotate the front of the front spring hanger up and then twist the front spring eye. The first moved it up to lower the truck and then the second moved the axle forward as well as up a little. Now I had to figure out how to move my axle forward and keep it at stock height at the same time. I unfortunately had to accomplish this in an "un-prototypical" way. What i did was to mount the hanger in the stock position and then I bent the eye of the spring way back and up at the same time. I was able to get the axle right where I wanted it. Ah but this caused me a couple hours of head scratching and looking over several pictures by a bunch of you to figure out why in the heck I could not get my axle in the right place. Brian told me that he moved his back shackle forward about a half inch and that after doing his mod on the spring he was sitting at one and a half inches from the front of the frame rails to the center of the axle. I noticed that in the pictures he sent me that the rear shackle was almost straight up and down and that it was as he said about a 1/2" forward of where it was. I set my axle the same way and put the hood on and it was still to far back.:mad::mad: Then I noticed in the pictures Rick (Bucshott) sent me of his hood hinges on the Moving on truck, that the end of the hood was flush with the end of the frame. Well I bent the springs some more till I got them about where I needed them and moved on to making my hood hinges like Rick's. I built the first set of hinges and installed them and WOW I got it bang on the first time. I felt real good about my self till I opened the hood and noticed that the bottom of the grill hit the bumper mount when the hood was at a 90° angle. Well I figured if they hit that that the hood would barely open with the bumper on it. So I went surfing and found a picture of a Pete hood hinge and made a second set of hinges just like them. I got the same result. Now I'm getting ****ed:mad::mad::mad: I sat there for another hour trying to figure out what the crap was going on. Then like as if someone hit me in the back of the head with a baseball bat, I looked at the cab and started cussing up a storm, I found my problem. See the hood sat 1/4" to far forward, because I added a 1/4" to the front of the cab.... DAHHHHH After some thought I decided that I can easily solve the problem by having a custom front bumper made and then moving the part of the hinge that is mounted to the front spring hanger forward till it is just behind the bumper, just like on the 1:1's. Hood Hinges: http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/208.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/200.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/202.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/201.jpg Front Springs: http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/209.jpg As for the oil pan clearance, from the measurements I got from one of you guy's, I figured that the clearance would be about a 16th of an inch, and that is what I turned out to be. http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/210.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/211.jpg Now for the fenders. I went to HD as per Brian's direction and got some 4" ABS end caps which measured out to be the same size as the piece of the black pipe street 45 that Brian said to get, but the ABS is a lot thinner than the black pipe and closer to scale. I used the end cap because it already has the end on it that I used to mount the fender so I did not have to glue one on. I made the fender spacers by holding the hood with the front flush to a straight edge and then measuring the distance at the front and back of the fender, then made them as a box out of styrene. As Brian did with his, my fenders will be held on by three bolts so that they can come off for easier painting and can be fine tuned for placement in final assembly. All I have to do now is figure out how to cut them down to size for width, and do it straight.. http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/204.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/203.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/213.jpg Now keep in mind that the sides of the fenders will come down to the tires like the olden day fenders. ~Mike~ |
Re: Classy Shak
I started making a list of needed parts and supplies, tools and so on.. Wow I had to stop, my wallet was starting to burn.. The way I figure it by the time it is all said and done the cost of building this model will be 1:14th scale as well. I'll leave it up to you to figure out what this 1:1 truck would cost.
But what the heck, it's only money, I mean after all I do have $18,000 bucks worth of HO stuff in boxes in the basement that have not seen the light of day for two years. Once it's spent ya can't get it back right. As long as they still need new truck drivers, I'll still have a job to pay for my hobby. All that matters is I am enjoying this, and I'll have something real cool when done. ~Mike~ |
Re: Classy Shak
Howdy everyone!!
Well in between dinner at my home for my family on Christmas Eve, and then dinner at my brothers house with all my family again along with my sister-in-laws family on Christmas day, I managed to get a lot done. (Since I am such a social person...NOT) I really did not like the fenders being up so high, don't know why I put them there in the first place, but anyway I lowered them down to where they are supposed to be and then made the outer lip of the fenders and the front fender support. If you were to look at the drawing of the truck you would see that the front fenders wrap down to the tire line on the sides. http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/225.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/224.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/227.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/226.jpg I also made the filler panel for behind the inner fenders. http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/231.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/230.jpg I rebuilt the hinge for the hood and now the hood opens fully over the bumper as it is supposed to. the only down fall is that there has to be a larger gap between the bottom of the grill and the top of the fender than I wanted, however if I want the hood to open like the 1:1's then that is the price I have to pay. http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/223.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/222.jpg I also got a BUNCH of holes drilled. There are the nine on the top of the cab, and the nine on the top of the sleeper. Yes I know the middle and the one to the right are to close together. That is a lesson learned about using worn out drill bits. I had a pilot hole but the point was gone on the bit and it walked on me. I made the holes oblong just a bit and should be able to get them mounted at the right space with out noticing it. Then on the cab I copied the slant of the windshield into the mounting of the lights and got them so that they should follow the windows, all except the last two outside ones of course they came so close to the last outside stock holes that if I tried to drill exactly where they should be it would have wound up in the stock hole anyway so I put it there. I don't think it will be that noticeable when finished. http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/221.jpg Ok here is how the lights will be: 48 On top of each side of the sleeper. 96 48 On the light bars under the sleeper. 96 27 Under the doors and on the filler panel. 54 14 On the back of the sleeper. 14 15 On the rear bumper. 15 18 On the top of the cab/sleeper. 18 1 Pervert light on the mirror. 2 1 Bumper light. 2 6 Stop, Tail, Turn lights on the back of the Whale Tail. 6 For a Grand Total of 303 Chicken lights on the outside of the truck alone. There will also be lights inside the cab. There will be lights in all the gauges on the dash along with a left and right turn signal indicator and a high beam indicator. Then there will be accent lighting under the truck. Good thing I have room for batteries. :cool::cool: http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/217.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/216.jpg And the 14 on the back of the sleeper. http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/218.jpg I also got some better pictures of the mirrors Lynn made for me. http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/191.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...0Shak/191b.jpg I have changed the plans a little bit and I will not be putting Brian's steps on the truck. I am going to take a styling Cue from my friend Jeff England (Owner of Pride Transport) He had a Pete that he entered in the '03 SLC truck show (The same show I entered my JFI, white and purple truck in) They are hard to see because I was taking a picture of something else and not focusing on the running boards and steps, plus they are black, but anyway I am going with something like these. http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...R1-026-11A.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...R1-024-10A.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...-R1-018-7A.jpg So that's it for this weekend. Please let me know what you think about what I have done with the fenders. Or anything else for that matter. ~Mike~ |
Re: Classy Shak
Well then you have to also take into count the 53' trailer with one every .5". Lets see that's 45" / .5= 90 x 4 = 360 and then 7.25" / .25 = 29 x 2 = 58
that's 58 x 360 = 418 just on the top and bottom rails and the top front and back. Then add the S.T.T. lights = 6 and then the lights on the front of the spread axles so that is 7" / .25 = 28 x 2 = 56 so now you have a grand total of 480 on the trailer and again not including ground effects lights. So 303 on the tractor and 480 on the trailer... each pulling 20mA. Someone else will have to do the math on that, I know how to wire them but I suck at math. Lets just say a few LiPo's needed. |
Re: Classy Shak
I am working on the front half (cab section of the running boards now. Pictures to come this weekend I promise.
I have been rethinking some things, and I am thinking of changing some things because of funds. I was going to buy four steps from Brian, but cash is tight so as mentioned before I have changed the design which after looking at it I think I like it better this way. Everyone has either steps like Brian's or the stock steps, but I have yet to see anything like what I am doing now. I also have decided to forgo the stainless for the light bars under the cab and sleeper, the fuel tanks made of aluminum or Stainless. One of the main reasons for this is because I can't afford $80 for a 12 x 12 sheet of stainless and risk messing it up trying something I have not done before. I thought about just making them out of brass and then having them chromed along with all the other stuff, but then I found out that there is no one here that can chrome plastic (Side Boxes) so what the plan is now and I think it will look cool specially with the new running board and steps. I am going to make the tanks out of styrene and paint them the purple with the Stainless tank straps. and that will make it so that everything below the cab and sleeper will be purple with the exception of the tank straps. Like this http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s.../MyKHSide2.jpg Also notice on the picture that I decided to keep the full length running boards. Now here is my next thought. I was planning on getting the full function air ride suspension from Tolke. However since getting him to get me a price is like pulling teeth, I was also looking at the EBH simulated air ride. Well I have come to the conclusion that with the full running boards and the full fenders and the back bumper, the only way you would see the air ride is if I was holding the truck up. Plus PMD now wants $130 per axle for them and I don't have that kind of cash, then I WILL be using the RC controls rear ends which cost $200 as it is. So I am thinking I might just go with the stock rear suspension.. Not 100% on that yet, but if I want to get this thing done before next year I need to cut costs. SO hold on Paul and everyone else I will get some up by the end of the weekend. ~Mike~ |
Re: Classy Shak
Hello All,
I got a little work done on the steps tonight and while sitting here watching glue dry I noticed something missing under the hood, so I handled that problem as well.. First the steps http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/237.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/236.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/235.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/232.jpg Notice that I also got the pilot holes drilled for the lights. I made the light bars for the sleeper tonight as well. I will get pictures of them later when I get the holes drilled for the led's. The top of the step is exactly half way between the bottom of the door and the running boards. The steps are 21" scale inches wide by 8.75" deep. Now on to the under hood problem. Every day at least twice I either have to say, or hear my students say during their pre-trip, "I am going to check my steering column, my steering gear box, my pitman arm, drag link, and tie-rods. Someone had mentioned earlier in this thread, I believe it was Nate, that he would like to see a bunch of things. One of the things he mentioned was a functioning steering wheel. Well I will have one for sure now, the hard part is finished. I made a functional steering gear box. I took some 3/8 styrene tube, then went down to the forgotten RR stuff in the basement and found my spare locomotive worm drives. Now of course if you know how these drives work, you can only turn the worm gear side, so because of this I have the worm gear attaching to the pitman arm so that when I turn the truck the steering wheel will turn a bit. http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/238.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/239.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/240.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/241.jpg ~Mike~ |
Re: Classy Shak
Quote:
Thanks Shane, Glad to be back. |
Re: Classy Shak
Hello Gent's
Well I have not done much at all since New Years. I ran out of my styrene weld and ordered some more, ordered it on the 31st but it is not here yet. UPS tracking says it should be here today. I got the front fenders shaped and sanded, and the hood coated and sanded. http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/250.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/251.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/256.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/257.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/249.jpg Notice I left the grill on the hood when I sanded it. I was not happy how the grill came out and I noticed that the line between the hood and grill was not all that good, so I sacrificed the grill's chrome to make the hood look right. So I can still use the grill if I ever do a Mono-chromed truck. But the lines are great now.. Hoping the weld gets here today so that I can do something with it this weekend. ~Mike~ |
Re: Classy Shak
Wow man, can you say "attention to detail"...LOL
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Re: Classy Shak
Today I got the front section of the running boards built.
http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/258.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/262.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/260.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/261.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/264.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/263.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/265.jpg I also added the 359 hood center detail. http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/259.jpg ~Mike~ |
Re: Classy Shak
Ok tonight I installed the light bars under the sleeper. I am basically done with the building from the bumper to the back of the sleeper. I have a few more things like the wings for the sleeper. I have to make the tanks and another side box, and the steps for the rear access, but I need to get the frame done first.
http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/267.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/266.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/270.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/269.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/271.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/273.jpg ~Mike~ |
Re: Classy Shak
Well I guess my mind is made up about the rear suspension, I just ordered the stock rear suspension and the crossmember for it.
~Mike~ |
Re: Classy Shak
Well I'm at it again. This time I started with the necessities, can't drive a Peterbilt if the seats are aired up, you'll get a nose bleed sitting that high.
http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/281.jpg I am using some Wedico seats. They are just the right size and they look better than the Tamiya seats. I built the Pete center cup holder a while back and got it installed now. http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/280.jpg Next I built some scale shocks. The stock Tamiya shocks measure out to be 4-3/8" in scale. I got some 1/4" and some 3/16" brass tubing and made me some proto shocks. the 1/4" = 3.5" scale and the 3/16" = 2-5/8" more to the right size. However diameter was not the only thing that bugged me. The length of the stock shocks is WAY wrong. Making the mounting locations wrong specially on the front. I made these so they are the proper size and then i made the proto shock mounts. http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/276.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/277.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/279.jpg ~Mike~ |
Re: Classy Shak
Howdy All.
Well Today I got the shock for the right side done. Finished the core for the Air-to-Air. Then I had to find something else to do so I made brake cans. http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/286.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/285.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/284.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/290.jpg I have a big roll of 35 pair wire that I got in my RR layout days. I took a strand of that and pulled the wire out of it to make it pliable. I then took two 1/4" long pieces of .020" brass rod and glued them half way in each end. Then I drilled a hole with a #76 drill in the can and in the frame. I glued the brass rod in both. This gives the hose the flexibility it needs but helps give the connections more strength than if I just glued it to the side of the frame and the can. Then a turn to the right and the left to check for clearance and movement, and all is good. http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/292.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/291.jpg ~Mike~ |
Re: Classy Shak
Hi All..
Wow I got a very cool present in the mail today from a real good friend. I will let him say who he is if he wants. All I can say is Thank you very much. http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/293.jpg These things are so cool..:cool::cool::cool::cool::cool::cool: Thanks Friend!!! ~Mike~ |
Re: Classy Shak
Hi All!!
Well I got my package from Lynn (tc1cat) and am glad to add some more of his fine work to my truck. I sent Lynn a drawing of what I wanted and he made it look exactly like what I had in my head...;);) I had him make the Pittman arm and a steering arm for the truck. http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/294.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/295.jpg I told him I wanted it to look like the real thing and that's exactly what I got. Then I needed a special bumper because of how far forward the steering axle is mounted and again I sent a drawing and he made it perfect. http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/296.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/298.jpg Thanks Lynn for the good work. It really adds to this build. I also got a few more parts from RC Dampner. I got the rearend cross member, the radius rods for the rear suspension, and the tank mounts for either 2 or 4 tanks. I have not made up my mind yet. But either way I have enough. http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/299.jpg ~Mike~ |
Re: Classy Shak
Howdy..
Got a much awaited package in the mail today... My rear suspension. Now I got most of what I need to get it to a rolling chassis this weekend, rolling on it's final frame rails that is.. I got the rear suspension put together to make sure I got all the required parts. The only thing plastic on this is the spring saddle, everything else is metal. http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/299.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/300.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/301.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/302.jpg So this weekend I get to cut and drill the frame and start putting it together again. Just need a few more parts, some of which I believe are on the way. Some need to be ordered still.. I got some other parts in the mail the other day from the one and only Tamiya Cowboy. I got the dash and steering wheel, windows, fifth-wheel, and carrier bearings. Thank you very much Paul!!:D:D So she is getting close. To do list:
~Mike~ |
Re: Classy Shak
Well Hello All..
I got my frames done today and I am really pleased with the way they look. The frame rails I got from FGD and the cross are from RCDampner The new and the stock. http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/303.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/304.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/305.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/306.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/307.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/308.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/309.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/311.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/312.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/313.jpg I am hearing this song in my mind going over and over again..... "Give me fourty acres and I'll turn this rig around, it's the easiest way I have found. Some guy's can turn em on a dime or turn um right down town. But I need fourty acres to turn this rig around" :D:D:D:cool::cool::cool::cool: ~Mike~ |
Re: Classy Shak
I am seriously contemplating moving the axles forward to where the center of the suspension is where the cross member in front of it is now.
Now that I have a set of axles on it, it looks a little odd to me being that long. I look at it and it looks like it is sagging in the middle. ~Mike~ |
Re: Classy Shak
Hi Guy's
Well I got my tires today. I also moved the drives forward to shorten the wheel base. I think this looks more realistic. It still is not set in stone yet. I have to get the fenders first and build the steps, in order to place the axle. That way I don't crowd the steps with the cab wings, which I also need to build. With the frame and drives as they are now. http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/314.jpg And with the drives moved forward. http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/322.jpg http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Shak/316.jpg ~Mike~ |
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