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Re: Volvo G990 Grader
Stefan, not to be a party spoiler, but are these plates a good idea?
How do you prevent hose chafing and so? I guess you can round the edges, but - not having the pdf of the original at hand - I remember similar plates in other machines having quite generous padding/guidance/radii to prevent cutting/chafing the hoses and wires. |
Re: Volvo G990 Grader
Hey Jens, Are you thinking of grommet's around the hose's?
Cheer's, Neil. |
Re: Volvo G990 Grader
Or sheathing around the hoses - not sure if any of that is realistic in the model.
It's problematic enough on the big machines. I once saw an Australian(?) safety pdf where they talked about best practise in laying and securing hoses. But I cannot find it :( |
Re: Volvo G990 Grader
Jens, that´s not a spoiler, I´ve thought of that, too, but the original has a plate like that, so I made it (them). In reality each hole carries a fitting, to which a hose is attached from both sides. Obviously the holes are too small for model fittings (at least the ones you can buy), and many of them are even too small for the hoses I intend to use. So, depending on how many hoses will actually pass the waist (depends on whether I put valves also in the front frame) maybe I will use the plates, maybe not (edit: What I mean is: for a smaller number of hoses I can use the larger holes and include some kind of hose protection).
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Re: Volvo G990 Grader
Amazing, really nice work...
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Re: Volvo G990 Grader
I have models with rubber gromets & without going through metal holes, but the hoses fit snug! Never a problem yet with rupture.
Apart from UV light, vibration greatest factor to premature failure no matter how properly secured.. not something to worry about on a model I wouldn't think. :confused: 5yrs eh? and 5 more?.. don't let the media find that out or you'll be the new poster boy for "too much time on hands". :p :D |
Re: Volvo G990 Grader
Hm, someone must be drawing the wrong conclusions here, and I don´t know if it´s you, me or those potential media :confused:
Now, if you mean "too much spare time" I must respectfully disagree, cause sometimes weeks and even months have passed without me having had any time for the build :(:(. If you mean something else, you may still be right of course (pls enlighten me) :D:D:D |
Re: Volvo G990 Grader
I'm sorry Stefan :( I was teasing you and making fun of the media & ppl in general who don't understand what it means to have the challenging & exciting hobby that we all here enjoy so much... bad taste, my appologies, I didn't mean any offence to the extraordinary skilled work you are doing. :)
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Re: Volvo G990 Grader
The people that make fun of this hobby have no skills or talent!
My $.02 worth Grader is getting better all the time! Cheer's, Neil. |
Re: Volvo G990 Grader
Sometimes there is different meanings to the slang we use.
For example; I have a Ukrainian guy who has worked for me about 12yrs and one time I was going to the lumber yard close to his quitting time and I said; "See Ya Later" and I left. About an hour goes by and I get a call from my dad wondering when I'll be back. I said I was still loading the trailer and he said well Vladimir is waiting for you because I told him I'd "see ya later" what I should have told him was: "I'll see you tomorrow":D Oh yea, This is the reason I inquired on another topic about requesting more Emoticons and Smiles. |
Re: Volvo G990 Grader
Hi Joe! Having just read your comments on your neighbours' reaction to your own long term project as well as what other people say, I now quite understand what you meant. And in any case, no offence taken! :)
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Re: Volvo G990 Grader
Looking like some of these parts are right out of the factory on a 1:1 machine. The hard solder joints came out nicely too.
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Re: Volvo G990 Grader
Great work. The solder joints look like miniature welds, off a 1:1 machine. I don't know that I could do that clean of work, but you're making some great progress. Watching these big machines come together, in miniature, is a real treat.
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Re: Volvo G990 Grader
Thanks for the warming words. Long time, no show, but here I´m back with a sequence of pictures from the build of the tandem boxes:
First how they should look when finished... apart from the colors :D https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...DBTV2J5MG5WNms https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...2t5c0czYmxHYXM https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...VUtN2dSQVIxNnc https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...TRNdGhrY3FQRFE https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...2E4c3cwX0R0LXM https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...2dldmtYMFhycm8 https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...ks3eDNzUjFocWc This is the dia. 75 mm (3 inches) raw material for the brake housings (without function). https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...XRnQ1YweEZNVXM Two thirds of the material removed. The swarfs filled up one large packing case. https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...2M1STNsVm5helk https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...nRkd1RHdFhuZVk https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...GR4dTlWXzdJeWs And here you see the rear axles and wheel hubs. https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...Gl2bmZhbzlNbXM Stefan |
Re: Volvo G990 Grader
A lot of nice parts! Looking like you are building 2 graders, or is it only spare boxes?
Are the drive axles made in one piece or axle pressed/soldered? What type of material do you use, the surface looks realy good. Dan |
Re: Volvo G990 Grader
Hej Dan!
Yes, my intention was to build two of them, which I've also managed for most of the parts up till now. The calculation was that all the time for planning is better invested that way. The drive axles are a two piece pressed, or rather glued, construction. The axle proper is diameter 12 mm. The material used is stainless 1.4305 (which I think is called 303 in the states). I use this where no welding is needed, for the simple reason that it doesn't weld but is relatively easy to cut (achieving an acceptable surface). For parts to be welded I use 1.4301 (304). Stefan |
Re: Volvo G990 Grader
WOW! Great machining! Impressive!
Kerst |
Re: Volvo G990 Grader
Thanks Kerst! I made some additions for the moldboard installation.
These are the bearing bronze blocks. The actual guide slots will be milled in one setup after finishing the moldboard with its guide rails. https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...E1GR05nb25LTzg This bar connects the quadrants and also protects the moldboard slide cylinder from dirt (final screws will be shorter, of course). https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...lBDOUJ5ZTJxRzg https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...2hHR0dJVTBFWXM Stefan |
Re: Volvo G990 Grader
Finally I was able to prepare some new pics. Have been rather busy with the garden, as usual in the springtime, so didn´t do much on the model in the meantime, and the pics show what has been done before. Sorry for the long delay :o
Anyway, this is the story of the (still unfinished) front axle: https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...zZ3dGtIX1NyV0U https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...HBwU2RpNWVzdGM The knuckle and the spindle data were sent to a 3D print shop for producing master models for lost wax casting by another shop. This way it was possible to reproduce even the part numbers on the castings. Here are the master models having been returned after casting. You may note a pin having been inserted in the spindles to avoid air being trapped. The aluminum plugs in the knuckles were added when it turned out that the (one man) casting shop couldn´t handle holes of the particular depth to radius ratio. https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...kNpOXQxa2tsQ0U Unfortunately, the casting guy had slightly misjudged the castability (or his skill). Apparently, my parts were thicker than anything he had handled before, and came out with a lot of shrinkage cavities. In all, he cast each part six times (I had ordered two), but still was not happy, so he gave me the best pieces for the price of the metal. Here the knuckles: https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...lFUYkd6NlpEcUU And here one spindle already in the mill: https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...k14U3dFaXVpZDA https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...3o4eEFXMmlNR1U https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...y1sSW16TkpETE0 https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...jNRSGRFOFpHVTQ The next step was a bit tricky. The original ball joints for the tie rod and the steering cylinders have a conical insert end and there is of course no drill bit available in the needed size and conicity. Reasonably I should have given up at this point and made a simple threaded hole, but this time I was so determined to stay to scale, that I decided to make my own set of conical drill bits. Below you see the spindle arm for the tie rod connection being drilled. https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...2J4a19kNUhXb0E Whereas this was relatively straightforward, said spindle arm unfortunately obstructs access from above to the steering cylinder attachment point. Consequently, I felt compelled to take yet another step towards insaneness and make this hole by means of reverse drilling. This requires threaded drill bits and an arbor. I suppose the next pics explains this better than more words: https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...nZ2NjlMWk9KUTQ https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...WphZFZiRUtpeW8 https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...WVIbUljYng4OTg https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...zdYR0EybjV6Q3M Next, I turned to the clamp on the tie rod ends. In order to test the design I hand made a single sample from 0.5 mm (20 mils) stainless steel sheet which was glued to a larger bar for ease of handling. It turned out to be a bit on the weak side, so I´ll probably have to increase to 0.8 mm, but that´s still in the future. https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...2VGbEZnZEFuY2c https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...GV5N09RS2o1eHM https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...lgwZ2FOck1vdms During box assembly I apparently forgot to take pictures :(. This is the only one I could find: https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...0d5bGhaWGp2LWM Front hub parts: https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...kdSU2hrRnNYT2M https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...nNvTF8yRmNrN1k The remaining pics show pretty much the current state. Tie rod ball joint seats as well as cylinders for steering and wheel lean still have to be made. https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...DBXaWtYUkNjS3M https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...E83RTdGRFZmUDQ https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...0pPUWg1Ti14cnM https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...XY1WHdNcVJlYzQ https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...VZ5R0ZKcVpqbTA https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yT...0tpSFdSd2xMd1k Stefan |
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