Drilling custom frame
 

What is the best way to drill the holes on the tops and bottom of the frame for the cab base etc. I guess I should say to get them centered. The hole on the sides I used stock rails as template guide . Some of my holes on the top aren't quite centered and make everything out of alignment a little

Re: Drilling custom frame
 

Are you using a center punch? Are you hand drilling or using a drill press. Drill presses, at least what you need for this hobby are inexpensive along with a drill press vice help cure that problem.
Check out this thread http://www.rctruckandconstruction.co...ead.php?t=3733

Re: Drilling custom frame
 

I've got a small drill press. The first one I didn't use a punch and hand drilled

Re: Drilling custom frame
 

I always mark center punch and them drill with press so I can keep the hole lined up correctly to the inside.sometimes its tough. If you mess up just make it a little bigger and nut and bolt it. Good luck

Re: Drilling custom frame
 

I've been in a position where I didn't have or couldn't use a center punch and it never tuns out well.

Re: Drilling custom frame
 

Just like this. point where you want, push and it ka-BANGS where you want the hole. bits love it and dont wander. I've tried doing lots of holes by hand and it doesnt work for me lol.

man that sounded bad!


https://encrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com/i...s_leQoXS1UCU4N

Re: Drilling custom frame
 

Without any fancy tools, this is how I would do the holes in the top of the webs. Clamp the two new frame rails back to back, with the webs facing outwards from each other. Measure the distance of the holes on the stock frame rails. Measure and mark the hole locations on one of the new frame rails. Take a combination square and use it to scribe a light line (perpendicular) across both frame rails. Once you've got the lines marked, unclamp the rails. Set your combination square to a depth that is exactly half the width of the rail web. Go back to all the first set of lines you scribed, and using the square set to half the width of the web, scribe another line that intersects the first. Where the lines cross center punch the hole locations. All that's left to do is drill out the holes. Start with a small drill bit so you can drill pilot holes. Larger bits have a tendency to walk in aluminum. Smaller bits will keep the hole more accurate. Once the pilot holes are drilled, go back and drill them with a 3mm drill bit, or a 2.5mm bit for a tapped hole. Use a little cutting oil if you have to. It will help prevent the aluminum from sticking to the cutting edges of the bits. The only other tip I can give you is to make sure your drill bits are always held squarely to the frame rails. It doesn't really matter what you use to drill the holes. You could this with a dremel if you wanted, but of course something like a drill press will give you better results.

Re: Drilling custom frame
 

This is one of best types of center punches you can get. Mine rolled off the bench last week and broke the tip off. I took it apart in an effort to remove the tip and now it doesn't work, time to buy a new one!

Re: Drilling custom frame
 

Thanks guys

Re: Drilling custom frame
 

Good lubricant always helps

Once you break through the black cladding on tamiya rails or just starting out on aftermarket rails you get into that nice soft aluminum.

Since most of our parts are common low alloy aluminum it is fairly susceptible to gumming up a drill bit. By gumming up I mean the aluminum pastes itself to your drill bit or especially thread taps. By using the lube it helps to keep the drilling point cool and gum free.
A gummed up drill bit might wonder off center. Especially since it typically only gums up one of the two cutting surfaces.
A gummed up tap will strip out those nice threads as you reverse and back that tap out.

Try to always use a center punch. A must for keeping centered on the mark.

Izzy

Re: Drilling custom frame
 

Best method I found it to make a template using some Aluminium angle which you can clamp to the chassis rail. One side of the angle can be clamped to the outside wall of the rail, with the horizontal part of the angle drilled to pre-determine the the distance of the hole from the rail edge. Take lots of care to make the template, making sure you get the lateral location absolutely right, then its real easy to drill the holes in the rail with confidence because you only need to slide the template along the chassis rail to get the right 'front-to-back' location. Much more accurate than a centre punch each time....