[cdm]

Originally Posted by carp

Use 3 valves and a t splitter, not sure about the cylinder bore or pump someone else will though.

Vario m13/1 hydraulic kit http://www.vario-helicopter.biz/gb/p...ucts_id=100428

Some aluminium plates to mount the hydraulics
£13 filters you can get for £2
brushless outrunner you can get from hobby king for $30
longshaft pump 169euro you can get this as a complete belt drive for 390ish euro i think from fumotec but the flow will be to much for a small model i think
the valves you can get from fumotec also mine cost £327 for 4
hydraulic tank is an rc car fuel tank you could pick 1 up off ebay cheap

www.fumotec.de

here is the cylinders from vario http://www.vario-helicopter.biz/gb/p...ucts_id=100294
lot of money for cylinder that are to big for your model, once you find out what size you need just pick up some cheap pneumatic cylinders from ebay4

Thanks for the info carp. That picture saved me some aggravation pursuing this as Vario has stopped responding altogether. And i thought eastcoastvario was annoying to deal with when it came to helicopters. ugh .

I have the cyllinders sourced; 69$ each and those things have been tested beyond any abuse i can ever dish at them (they are off the chinese earth digger). never heard bad things about them so i'll make the geometry work with the sizes they sell in (smallest 172mm).

Trying to get the valve blocks, fittings and pump stateside. I should have a confirmation of stock status on those tomorrow. Else its chancing it with germany again (6 weeks in, still waiting on things from there btw, not related to this build).

i got turntable, drive mechanics, metals etc shipping this week. but stuck with the hydraulics as of tonight. hopefully tomorrow brings good news. once i have all main things in i'll start a build thread. don't want to do that now as you can see how one missing thing can throw it all weeks off and it gets too drawn out.

This looks like its going to be good.definately agree with the 3 valves and a splitter for the two lifting rams.it gives an even preasure on each as they automatically ballance through the pipe system.do you have any pictures of the arm you hav strengthened as it sounds like a very good idea?

i normally dont do this as its offtopic but here

just to give you an idea, pretty simple really. i know most like to cut metal to shape and build an inside structure of the stock arms. but i despise working with metal so i opt to keep that to a minimum.

cut in a location where the curve of the boom is smallest, or wherever you want to really. its triangle like so it will shrink in both directions as you expand. but you have to keep it level on one side and just level out the other one afterwards. then frame it from the outside so it stays in place. you can bondene the bruder, just it doesn't hold too well, but strong enough for keeping it secure temporary



split it up and scratch the plastic deep and nice. then lay down plastic epoxy (i bought 200 packs of the ITW stuff, sold under many brands. yes 200. got a deal at 2$ per pack (retail 6) a while back) and it has never failed me where using styrene cannot work or where you have to bond plastic and metal together.



next get some threaded rod - i use m3 as i have 20ft of the stuff since i bought various types a while back testing what i wanted for another project. so i have spares to cut and destroy. cut it to lenght as needed and lay it down over the epoxy and joint. i use 3 rods per side, total of 6 per joint. epoxy over that.



then you go along the entire boom the same way, you epoxy to bottom so it bonds to the stock abs and then on top of that you can lay styrene rods or metal rods (depending your weight needs). i used styrene as filler since i dont want a super heavy boom. but you can go all out and use lead ballast if desired.. right. so once each half is filled up with epoxy and whatever other inert materials you have chosen, lay down another epoxy layer and stick the 2 halves together. then you pour epoxy over the steel rods in the joint just like you would do with concrete over rebar. then you get your dremel/grinder and begin to smooth off any really ugly deformations, like the molded fake cables bruder put. then you go from there and make it pretty or ugly as you desire. thats the tedious part... bondo. the better you grinder skills are the easier your final step will be; mine are rough, i like pain, i fix stuff afterwards.



then for the actual connecting points, i use the stock bruder holes. the truck is to make sure that channel is very well put on the inside with no air in the epoxy. or thats where you would put your styrine or metal bars even.

now get a 6mm/3 OD/id spacer, drill the hole in the arm with a bench press and hammer the shaft down into that. trim the edges before or after as desired. then use 3mm shaft to slide into that. and then you have your connections. the 3mm shaft spins inside the 6mm fitting and there you have it. with some good marine grease between the two, the joint should be as wear proof as anything you can buy from the big boys, if not better.



unfinished but you get the idea. i desided to make it pretty before i drilled. one of many layers to be sanded.

the stock bruder cyllinder mounts are there just for my reference. the actual ones ill cut out of aluminum channel. and screw it down to the boom.