Quote:
Originally Posted by rockNmayhem
Just to answer a few of your questions in order the best I can from what experience I've had over the past year with my hydraulics from when he first started.
1. 10 bar pressure is actually a little underrated for full power that is more lower end operating pressure, I constantly have pressures around 150-170 and even peaking to 210 at times when testing the system.
2. A pressure relief valve is not necessary on these models if you have your pump set on a mixed channel that uses a master and slave setup. For instance the RDS8000 is great for this. I also have a Turnigy radio but it is not nearly as easy to setup.
3. I would run the plastic until you can figure out how to break it. The stock Bruder plastic on these models is really tough for, well "plastic". I have used the plastics as mock up and made some other pieces but the stock plastic is plenty strong for the pressures and forces you will be throwing at the model with the setup you are talking about.
4. Here is the fun part. Antifreeze is what Manolo recommends and uses in his models but a few things to keep in mind. DO NOT USE GREEN OR ORANGE/YELLOW ANTIFREEZE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I say this from lots of testing and down time of setting. These two antifreeze solutions are notorious in vehicles for building up and causing problems and they are even magnified in this small of an application. I have done a lot of different testing of different types of oils and weights along with other fluids such as virgin olive oil and simple water just to see the characteristics.
I have great pressures with a fully synthetic 10wt oil but volume and load on the pump is way too much for my likings to run it constantly.
I am going to have to suggest going with an RV antifreeze (pink in color usually) as it is a great weight non damaging fluid that still has some minimal lubricity to it for these machines. DO NOT and I repeat DO NOT mix it with water in the system. You want to run it straight out of the bottle into whatever tank you are using and have only that fluid in the system.
I hope this gives you a little insight into what you are getting with the system you are ordering and I have no doubts that you will enjoy it and have fun building your new project.
If you have any questions about anything feel free to ask away.
Tyler
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thanks thats a lot good info there , yep now im just waiting on stuff to get here the part i hate.
Quote:
Originally Posted by cdm
3. you should redo the bucket linkage. thats the first thing to go on the stock bruder. the boom itself is sturdy enough that the weight of the stock bruder will not allow you to damage it! you will drag and tip the model way before the plastic snaps.
it took me 25lbs of weight in wet ground (not mud) trying to do a 360 pivot to snap the stock tracks.. you aren't even going to get near 8lbs total so you are good with all stock components but the bucket H link
welcome to hydraulics. you wont stop there. then you will want more, so you will start doing metal.. and it keeps on going.
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thays what i was thinking buckets are easy to make with the router at work.
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Originally Posted by dabears
Do they sell the Bucket linkages anywhere? or should you just make them from brass or steel?
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im thinking you just make them out of steal or brass. i use tierods from a old touring car on my old build.