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#1
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Hi everyone. today for the first time since I got it, I actually drove my king hauler, it took 8 months to acquire the funds to outfit it with electronics. my question is this, when shifting from first to second,and second to third the gears clunk a bit? is this normal? and is it best to return to neutral before climbing through the gears, or just simply toggle the stick from left to right at the speed you are already going? thanks
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#2
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You problem is that when using the left stick to shift you cant shift fast enuff and the other issue might be a stock servo they are weak I found you stop most of that noise by going to a better servo like a 645..
Congrast on getting you truck up and running now for some fine tuning and you will be mini trucking..
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Paul W. "Tamiya Cowboy" HI.. My name is Paul.. And.. I.. Have a Cabover Addiction. RIP FreddyGearDrive 2-12-59/12-19-11 "LET IT EAT" Like Us on Facebook "Corn Field Mafia" To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. |
#3
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Ok, now that it's running time to meet up!
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#4
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the Tamiya transmission is a shift on the fly style - but if your hauling around a 90+ pound dozer you should stop and shift - but under 99% of our use its shift on the fly!
You might also check to make sure that your center point is accurate on second gear. Ive seen several trucks where the linkage is mis adjusted. Best way to check this is to pop the joint loose and let the linkage find its natural center point, then start up your electronics to let the servo center itself, then compare the 2. If your using a higher end radio with end point adjustements this is a whole lot easier... Lastely check the full swing points of the servo on shifting. Standard Tamiya linkage can be tweaaked to where it likes each endpoint and the center point (within some compromise on each). Chris |
#5
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so am I running the risk of damaging any of the gears? I haven't actually had it out of the kitchen , so the gear grinding has only happened on my work bench with the wheels in the air. maybe on the ground it won't be as bad? any thoughts...and what is the best way for me to get a more realistic speed with this truck, I can already tell that it is going to be way too fast and the last thing I want to do is roll the **** thing.
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#6
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Check out this video of my truck and you can see what kind of speed these trucks are capable of without putting in a GRU.
![]() http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/t...9/1ed27cdf.mp4 Travis
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AKA "00" Biddle RIP FreddyGearDrive 2-12-59/12-19-11 |
#7
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I put a 55 turn crawler motor in my globe made the speed alot better
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#8
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that video was insane, I had to watch it 3 times. so where do you get the gear reduction unit?
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#9
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I use the integy GRU it fits in the truck with no mods needed. When you look at the listing at integy it says 2.5 ratio but they give you an extra gear to make it close to 4:1.
Pic of the GRU installed. ![]() Link to the GRU. Click here Travis
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AKA "00" Biddle RIP FreddyGearDrive 2-12-59/12-19-11 |
#10
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Thanks for the link Travis, now I am no newbie to RC, but I am to the world of these trucks. So Am I correct in assuming that what this unit does is to reduce all of the stock gear speeds by 4 times the usual seeing as it is a 4:1 ratio. and it looks like some longer motor leads might be in store with this unit??
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#11
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Yes it will reduce the input to the transmission by 4 times and when you get the new motor you will need some new leads as well unless you want to unsolder the old ones and reuse them.
Travis
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AKA "00" Biddle RIP FreddyGearDrive 2-12-59/12-19-11 |
#12
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I also encountered an unusual situation yesterday. when hooking up all the electronics, I as usual installed the on/off switch that came with my futaba 4yf 2.4ghz radio that I got. then a bit later as I was testing things I realized that with the switch off, everything was working??? i found this puzzling, but decided to completely remove the switch. Is this something new?? My guess is that simply plugging in the battery acts as the on/off? does this sound right to you?
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