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Highway Trucks and Trailers On road trucks and trailers single and twin axle trucks. |
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#21
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Hello very nice looking trailer. Those arm that go from the back frame to the front frame to the fifth wheel are called draft arms and you only need one set the outside longer ones. Just thought I'd make a suggestion I have pulled these trailers before they actually tip over easier than a solid frame do to the fact of the bushing wearing quicker and getting sloppy. Ed
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#22
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![]() ![]() ![]() Last edited by TRUCKMAKER; 03-05-2014 at 02:26 PM. |
#23
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Hi guys...yea the inner arms are attached to the screw drive and they push down on the 1/4 frame and force the Draft arms To sissor,thus the box goes up....you are correct that you would not see those on a 1:1 1/4 frame end dump.
Poor pic but you can see where the inner arms attach to the screw drive. ![]() I have pulled all 3 styles of end dumps....Full frame,frameless, and 1/4 frame. Each have their good and bad...personaly I like the 1/4 frames as they are more stable than a frameless yet you can " inch worm" out if you get hung up after the load comes out.... First trailer I pulled was a full frame...nice and stable just don't get stuck! I have not made a video but will try to make one this weekend... Trent Last edited by Lmackattack; 03-05-2014 at 02:56 PM. |
#24
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Quick video of how the 1/4 frame works....
You can see that it moves pretty fast and needs much more reduction. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LYEcT...e_gdata_player |
#25
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veryy nice
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#26
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so ? out of curiousity does that design cause your wheel base to shorten when dumping? if so has it been difficult for you to dump in a single spot?
ekim jr |
#27
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Yes the trailers wheel base shrinks as the box goes up. The Idea is you back into your spot. Set the tractor brakes and then raise the box. As the box goes up it pulls the trailer axels close to the truck and the load starts to come out. Then you release the tractor brakes and when you lower the box it moves the tractor forward...kinda like an inch worm. It can help you get out of a soft spot where traction is limited. some people set the trailer and let it drag the truck back but I prefer walking the trailer out so the load spreads.
As long as you keep the truck and trailer straight when dumping you are fine. And actually you should never raise the box when the truck is not straight to the trailer. It's hard to see if it's leaning when you are on an angle?. Not to mention you should be backing in on a flat surface and pulling out in the same path. |
#28
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All you have said about dumping a dump trailer is true in a perfect world but the world we live in is not perfect. I have dumped them jackknifed across the Cross Bronx in New York when they rebuilt it in the late 60s during morning rush hour the contract got a $1000 fine for that. Ed
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#29
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Nice working trailer. Did you cure the lifting issue . I am. Building a straight frame end dump and having a hard time find a motor to raise it. I am on third motor cobo witch is out of a small impact screw gun speed is a little fast and will raise a 5/8 load of sand. But not a full load. A full load is 3/4 of a 5 gallon bucket.
Patrick. |
#30
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Havent found a solid solution. My box sounds about the same size as yours and will also hold 3/4 of a 5 gallon bucket. I am Also trying a small screwdriver motor right now. It has 2 planetary gear reductions limiting the revs to a max of 350rpm and puts put 110 lbs of force. Problem is the out put shaft is not set up for adding a gear. I will need to have something machined. I'm also clueless how to figure out the needed power to lift a fully box of sand or dirt.
What size screw driver motor are you using? Does it have reduction? |
#31
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Just thinking : Is there any trust bearing installed on the screw ends ?
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#32
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Yes I used a 1/4 -20 threaded rod with brass bushings and thrust bearings to carry both top and side load of the rod when moving...
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#33
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I am confused :0/ How much angle do the screw/or arms got when it start lifting the box ? the greater the stronger it will get. Any close up photo to look at ?
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#34
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The starting angel of the screw drive push rod is 12 degrees. the screw drive starts to push at the same spot that the draft arms meet in the middle of the trailer. I made longer push rods that put the starting point of the screw drive further forward but it seamed even worse.
The arms move freely, no bind. And obviously the hardest part is the first few inches of lift. Once it gets going it seams like a little more reduction will be all that's needed. I don't have any close up pics but I can get some tomorrow... |
#35
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This is the screw gun that I used to get motor and gear reduction from. With 12 v it turns 750 rpm with 135 in lb torque. It won't lift a full load.
Patrick |
#36
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Here's a pic of motor installed in my end dump
Patrick |
#37
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Thanks for the info im very Well glad you headed me off before I tried installing my screwdriver motor....your screw driver is rated for more power than mine so this one won't work....looks like time to invest in a hydraulic 4 stage ram and pump.
I saw scale art has a nice one but way over priced. Weidco has one but I hear its a leaky pig.... Any suggestions on a middle of the road hoist. If not looks like I will have to make my own... |
#38
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wedico is a hit and miss . I just did an install of 1 and was surprised, no leaky . as for scale Art , you get a very well constructed cylinder also rebuildable . In my calculations , for a cylinder built like scale arts , the price is more then fair .
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#39
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Yea the scale art looks very correct and built well. Im just trying to do this on a budget. |
#40
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6 bar is 87 psi, that makes sense. But 6 kilopascals shows .87 pounds force per square inch, on my conversion app, not sure the kp is correct? Can you send a link with more info?
Cheer's, Neil. |
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