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Body Shop Tech Body mods and tricks of the trade and painting tricks here. |
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#1
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I know most of you guys do this stuff blind folded but body work is not my thing. Started making my KH a little more 359.
![]() ![]() Here goes nothing. Last edited by Claus; 09-11-2010 at 09:11 PM. |
#2
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Ahh the plunge! Good start. Styrene is great. Just get the parts to fit tight before you use your MEK product. If you get the styrene to fit and shape well, you won't have to use much filler. I hate using filler in tight areas be it bondo or evercoat. Squadron is easy but my experience with it is that unless it is very thin, it shrinks.
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#3
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No turning back now! The hardest part is making the first cut. Trust me, you can do this!
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Nathan |
#4
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That's the hardest part..making that first score...
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#5
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I know what you mean,the cab I'm cutting up is making me very nervous.
![]() Take your time and remember if you mess it up you can always buy another cab!
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#6
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Are all the King Hauler cabs that you can buy now chrome? Will that come off with easy off? God, I hope I don't have to start over.
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#7
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It is easy to patch that up..Styrene is your friend..
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#8
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You can still get plain King Hauler cabs. Most guys are trying to make money with the metallic cabs on ebay.
I know what you mean about making the first cut! Just look at my "Bud" truck. This was my 1st try at chopping into a cab. Making a day cab doesn't count compared to changing the headlights, lowering and shortening the sleeper. GIVE ME METAL ANY DAY!!!! |
#9
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My first cuts looked like this...
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#10
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Then someone suggested cutting body lines..It would be much cleaner like this....for my 379 look...
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#11
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Looking like its headed in the right direction! just get some styrene in there and it'll fall together. I typically use .060 which is approximately the same thickness of the body already
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"If you build it, they will come" East Coast Mini Truckers To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. |
#12
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If you need, you can easily strip the chrome plating off a cab, or any other part. Get some Greased Lighting from Auto Zone, in a purple spray bottle. Soak your parts in that stuff for a few mins and it will come clean. It even removes anodizing from aluminum parts.
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Nathan |
#13
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Hi Claus,
Looks like your going fine just take your time and it will work out well and styrene is your friend, I've seen some guy's do impressive stuff with Styrene from 1/24 down to 1/87, just plan where your cuts will be and and it will work out great ![]() Cheers Cossett
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#14
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Thanks guys. I'll post some more photos later in the week. I have to get some styrene hopefully Tuesday. I made a new crawl through last night to get to the Wedico sleeper that will eventually be on the back.
Last edited by Claus; 09-05-2010 at 11:51 AM. |
#15
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I liked the wedico sleeper builds I have seen. Expensive for just a sleeper, but scale and fits well.
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#16
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The Tamiya sleeper can be made to look good for less money but I'm taking the shortcut. Again my skill level does not equal some of yours.
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#17
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Well it's going slow, but at least it's going. I want to thank everybody for their help, EspeeFan and Stepside have been especially helpful. Just doing one fender at a time. Started with backing pieces then laminated in three very thin pieces, followed by JB Weld for a base then the green putty. Still long ways to go and that's just for this side. Also have the new crawl through ruffed in, still needs to be filled and squared up.
![]() ![]() ![]() Like I said, I'm not a body man! |
#18
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I didn't want to but I'm probably going to lose the rivets going down the hood side. I should have taped them off but didn't and now they have gotten sanded down some.
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#19
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Claus here is a suggestion lose the JB weld and squadron putty and get some of this you can get it at NAPA auto parts stores. This stuff is simalar to bondo but better.
![]() Travis
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AKA "00" Biddle RIP FreddyGearDrive 2-12-59/12-19-11 |
#20
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Dumb question I'm sure, but why is it better? Thanks!
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