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#1281
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56mm by something like 93~100mm. 1200kv
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#1282
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Misprint on the one post, the gearbox is 4:1, 4:1, 3:1 and diff is 3:1, 1200kv motor on 11.1v Lipo, 144:1 reduction. 13320rpm on motor , axle will be 92.5 rpm. Now i don't know what the motor will actually spin. Kv is not an exact science and these TP motors are cheep so the windings very well could be off a couple hundred at most. And with such a big motor I really don't want to be maxing it out on top end. I think the power will be there and I can limit speed with radio if needed.
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#1283
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you need a large cat under the hood. just so
happens you know where there is one..... |
#1284
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Hummm, get Brian to print that engin around my motor, or I'm stuffing this "shop cat" that keeps jumping on my lap in there!!!
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#1285
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![]() ![]() That's what I'm talking about!! Something wrong with this cat!! It just stares at me like that!!! ![]() Had one shot to get the spacing and brazing on this, I think I got both ![]() ![]() Probably don't need the bearing there but doing it anyway. Two bearings just inside the block on shaft. The exposed one will be in diff housing. It will also add to the integrity of the mounting. ![]() This "should" be beefy enough, I'm thinking.
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#1286
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![]() ![]() Got some bearings, not sure who makes them? Butt I was thinking of you mark, when you asked what the gear shaft was for. HAHAHAHAH
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#1287
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Just couldn't help myself ,,, again,, I know back to the garage i go.
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#1288
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all my bearings say paccar on the box those must be english bearings
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#1289
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![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() I guess those are rear end bearings? |
#1290
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Does no look strait to me.........................
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#1291
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did you use enough presure when insertting the bearing ?
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#1292
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Question for you guys, I don't do much turning on steel,, feed is .005 rpm is 200. This is what the chips look like. I know I can push it to getting ideal blue chips, just want some advise on speeds n feeds.
![]() ![]() At this rate I will be here for a day, have to take gearstock from about 1.2" down to .3125". I may go with shaft and keyway but then I have to broach gears. Wanted to keep one piece shaft and gear. Lathe is 10x22 variable speed. Using insert cutter. Or is it no matter what going to be timely? I just don't know with steel cutting.
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#1293
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That gear stock material is really nice to machine. You may want to put a center hole and use the tail stock for better support. You should be able to hog more off faster.
As far as taking all day; It's a hobby you aren't making any money and its the fun of doing this. I would go with the one piece gear and shaft. Less worry, besides by the time you make a shaft key it bore the gear and broach you will have way more time than just turning the gear stock. |
#1294
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Forgot to mention, More feed may push the gear into your collet. Do you have a stop in it?
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#1295
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No stop, but I did center hole and live center. That was one thing I was worried about, pushing the shaft. I turned a piece of alum and cut it into three for a soft jaw. Clamped down pretty good but still having the teeth there. Have been checking it a couple times.
Yeah, I've got more time than anything ![]()
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#1296
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#1297
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Yeah I need to start getting stuff around for the show also. Messed up my shoulder with work stuff, can't lift above my head so hand cranking wheels at home has been therapy
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() The smaller gear on shaft is the one inserted into gearbox, it will be keyed to shaft. Top gear will be connected to a driveshaft. Only hard part now is getting the correct spacing on gears into gear housing.
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#1298
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Lookin good! When I built the rears for my 850 KW I used a piece of regular paper sandwiched between the gear mesh and then took the measurement for the spacing. Gear lash seamed to be pretty good and hasn't given me any grief just yet.
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#1299
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#1300
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