Screw drive setup/layout

[scalelover]

Not sure if this would be better here or in truck building tech, seeing as it kinda falls under both.

I know I've seen this asked several times in different areas and in some truck build threads but no one has really shown a really solid way of doing it. But for those of us who have never put our hands on one or seen one in person a build up of it can be a bit of a hurdle in designing one. Point being is there anyone on here that would be willing to do a walk through write up or a general step by step with pics to show us rookies a good base to start from so we can join the dumper club. Wow that sounds funny I know because I laughed typing it.. Thanks for any and all input you guys can give.

--Dan

[fhhhstix]

This is the best I can do.

Here is a list of the stuff you will need to build a screw drive and some pics.

First get some rails from Lowe's it is actually 1/2in cap for ply wood.
Next get some delrin to make the slide
Next get a piece of 10-32 all thread and a 10-32 furniture nut and a thrust bearing it is the blue piece at the end of the screw drive by the nut.
Click here for the link to the thrust bearing
next get at least a 50:1 gear motor and a coupler to hook the gear motor to the threaded rod.. I use an all thread nut and drill it for two set screws.















I hope this helps.
Travis

[dmess62]

Hey travis thanks for the pics and shopping list. the pic of the thrust bearing looks different than the one in the link, or am i missing something. Also is that just a nylon lock nut at the end by the thrust bearing.

I know you guys have invested a lot of time and money into developing these screwdrives, so any info is appreciated.

Thanks Dave

Also looks like I missed a good show in St. Louis. maybe next year I'll have project road hawg done with a matching dump trailer

[fhhhstix]

Originally Posted by dmess62

Hey travis thanks for the pics and shopping list. the pic of the thrust bearing looks different than the one in the link, or am i missing something. Also is that just a nylon lock nut at the end by the thrust bearing.

I know you guys have invested a lot of time and money into developing these screwdrives, so any info is appreciated.

Thanks Dave

Also looks like I missed a good show in St. Louis. maybe next year I'll have project road hawg done with a matching dump trailer

The bearing in the link is the same as the one in the truck and yes that is a nylock nut.

I am not hiding anything this is my screwdrive that is on my truck.

Travis

[dmess62]

Thanks I didnt mean to sound like you were hiding anything. sorry for any confusion. I was looking at the single pic you put up there it just looked diff from the one on the link, i was just unsure if it was the same thing or a pic of something different

Thanks Dave

[scalelover]

Awesome!!! Thanks for the detailed pics and shopping list. I'll be stopping to pick some pieces parts up tomorrow. I've already got the plywood channel but the others is what I was unsure of I really appreciate the help and am sure others will as well

Maybe this could become a sticky if others chime in with info or other designs they've built.

--Dan

[fhhhstix]

Originally Posted by dmess62

Thanks I didnt mean to sound like you were hiding anything. sorry for any confusion. I was looking at the single pic you put up there it just looked diff from the one on the link, i was just unsure if it was the same thing or a pic of something different

Thanks Dave

You have nothing to be sorry for, I am just usually short and to the point with an answer as I am not real fast at typing.

Travis

[steamer]

The only thing that I would suggest to change would be the steel furniture nut. After this summers usage and moving over 300 loads of wet dirt, I eventually wore out the nut and threads on the threaded rod.
It was a quick fix, as I just turned the rod end for end and put on a new nut. Even with liberal use of anti size, steel on steel is not a good mix.
My suggestion is to make the nut out of brass and make it the same length as your delrin slider block. The longer the nut the more the pressure is spread out along the threads.
My winter project is to make a new longer nut and I'll post some pictures on my thread.
Rob

[doodlebug]

Originally Posted by fhhhstix

You have nothing to be sorry for, I am just usually short and to the point with an answer as I am not real fast at typing.

Travis

Hey Travis, have you heard of the softwware "Mavis Beacon teaches typing"?



Cheer's, Neil.

[fhhhstix]

Originally Posted by steamer

The only thing that I would suggest to change would be the steel furniture nut. After this summers usage and moving over 300 loads of wet dirt, I eventually wore out the nut and threads on the threaded rod.
It was a quick fix, as I just turned the rod end for end and put on a new nut. Even with liberal use of anti size, steel on steel is not a good mix.
My suggestion is to make the nut out of brass and make it the same length as your delrin slider block. The longer the nut the more the pressure is spread out along the threads.
My winter project is to make a new longer nut and I'll post some pictures on my thread.
Rob

I do agree the furniture nut is not the perfect thing to use but you did not do yours any favor by using anti seize depending on the type you were using. The silver and copper colored anti seize contain metal and are not meant to be used as a lubricant. You can get a graphite based anti seize but it can still be abrasive.

I have thought about just treading the delrin block and see how that would work.

Travis

[Supermario]

Originally Posted by fhhhstix

I do agree the furniture nut is not the perfect thing to use but you did not do yours any favor by using anti seize depending on the type you were using. The silver and copper colored anti seize contain metal and are not meant to be used as a lubricant. You can get a graphite based anti seize but it can still be abrasive.

I have thought about just treading the delrin block and see how that would work.

Travis

Yup, anti seize is not typically used as a lubricant . As the name says, it prevents two combined stationary items from seizing together over a period of time and use. Also the dust and dirt that would cling to it would add to accelerated wear.


Mario

[ihbuilder]

put way grease on them ( mobile XHP 222 ) It's a multipurpose grease I use that in my diffs too Threading Delrin will not last any longer then steel unless you can polish the threads on the threaded rod . an acme threaded rod or ball screw would be the best option . I just never seen a ball screw small enough for this app

[steamer]

The anti seize that I've used on load surfaces is this stuff.
http://www.superior-industries.com/s...FeGDQgod0DoAbg

Got some as a sample at a trade show and it works on pretty well anything you can imagine, bearings or bolts.

Our trouble is the 10/32 all thread is too small to effectively hold it in the thread and it gets pushed out from the extreme pressure.

An engineering friend of mine did the math and figured that it take about 350 lb force to lift a box of dirt weighing just 25 lb because of the lift angle.

I've just got through reading up on threading Delrin, and Travis you may be on to something there.

The only thing they talked about was to use coarse threads so the you got a deeper thread cut in the Delrin for more surface area. I've got some long threaded taps and 1/4-20 rod so I'm going to give it a try.

I'll post pictures later.
Rob