1/16 Bucyrus-Monighan Walking Dragline

[tc1cat]

HA!! I bet you would get more interruptions in the full sized cab. People would want to see the controls and ask what you were doing in there!! Best bet might be to just wear ear plugs

Lynn

[SmallHaul]

Originally Posted by 9W Monighan

Remember me talking at Brownsville last summer in the 90deg heat? I was thinking about building a cab for the 1:1 controls with air conditioning and sit inside so nobody talks to the operator distracting him so he don't screw up the drag

Yes I do, it was REALLY hot. It was unbelievably hot in the cab of Howards Ensley Drag Line, which is probably why he was happy to let me run it, lol.

Ha, now... I don't know anybody that screws up when talking while operating?

[pugs]

I haven't gotten too much into the Xbee cards yet (the wireless portion of the combo), but I do believe its like the 2.4ghz radios in that they have to be bonded together and are on a code to minimize interference.

I would highly suggest buying the arduino book listed above and taking time to read it, if it looks like something you can handle than start experimenting. The plus side of the Arduino board in the model is that it can be used like a little PLC to monitor and adjust things without you having to worry about it, like maybe limit switches or temp sensors to protect something.

[9W Monighan]

Heck If I made it big enough and like the real ones there's usually a chair for the oiler and I could just draw the shades and sleep in there instead of my truck or tent.

[doodlebug]

Hey Steve, sound's like you have it covered for joystick's. Have you thought about having a camera inside the cab, and tv monitor outside. Let them see and no interuptus
Pug's, thank's for the new link, hadn't heard of ps3 controler's being used yet
Later, Neil#2 aka doodlebug.

[9W Monighan]

Originally Posted by doodlebug

Hey Steve, sound's like you have it covered for joystick's. Have you thought about having a camera inside the cab, and tv monitor outside. Let them see and no interuptus
Pug's, thank's for the new link, hadn't heard of ps3 controler's being used yet
Later, Neil#2 aka doodlebug.

Yes I would like to put a camera in the cab. That would make it more challenging to operate. I just need to work a few more hundred hours to get to that point

[9W Monighan]

Well, I finally got the tip soldered together. Another milestone crossed. I counted 135pcs that were made for this section of boom excluding about 150 bolts. I hope to get on the safety rope mountings soon. There's also a set of deflection sheaves that help guide the hoist rope I talked about before that are made but I need to design the channels that they mount to.

End Plates


Underside


Inside of the rear pillow block


Soldered


Last of the lattice that needed installed


Top section

[kerst]

Beautiful!

Kerst

[9W Monighan]

I doubt it Brian. I don't have any little kids anymore. Now they want diesel pick up trucks.

Thanks, Kerst, I got tired of starring at all the parts so the last two evenings I just had to put it together. I need to learn how to make hand rail and the walkway up the left side now. How will the oilier get up there to grease the point.

[td9clyde]

looks awsome i am still speechless of all the intricit details amaizing keep up the awsome work lol now looks like theres a euclid truck gonna be around to load and i can shove the load around

[tc1cat]

Almost done?? Hand rails and walkways should be no problem for you. Just take your time

[9W Monighan]

I'm never done with anything Lynn, I'm not sure how high the hand rail is, 42''? A friend stopped the other day and said he had some of the wood from trailer flooring and he could cut me some thin planking for my walkways. I think that stuff is Mahogany? That will look nice. Second choice would be Cherry because of the fine grain. I've spent roughly 7 months of spare time on this boom so far.I can't wait to get out and dig again, now this much of the boom is done it will be more realistic over the temporary boom. I need to get out to the real machine now the weather is getting nicer. I'll be able to get more sizes from the house and the A frame bracing.

[rc_farmer]

Your metal workis off the chart!!! Fantastic job on the boom. I wish i had the "metal" skills you guys. I'm still learning how to chuck-up my lathe

[9W Monighan]

Originally Posted by rc_farmer

Your metal workis off the chart!!! Fantastic job on the boom. I wish i had the "metal" skills you guys. I'm still learning how to chuck-up my lathe

My brain is recharging for the next step I have to take and that's to remove the ''A'' frame and drill a few hundred more holes for the diagonal bracing and mainly I need to get the suspension rope sheaves mounted up there.

Just watch you don't chuck up your lathe too much. Maybe you need a bigger chucker.

[9W Monighan]

Got alittle done this weekend on the boom suspension ropes. Not much because I'm getting parts ready to go to the sand blaster for my antique road grader restoration.

I had to drill the "A" frame sheave shafts at a 3deg angle so they will track inline with the boom taper to the point.


The shafts for the point sheaves


I didn't have any 3/8'' hex stock handy,so I milled some round stock to suit.

[modelman]

Very nice work as always steve!! Will the boom be painted?

[SmallHaul]

Looks strong and heavy. I see more counter weight in your future.

[9W Monighan]

I want to darken the brass with black patina hopefully Tom. That's going to take alot of elbow grease to clean everything so it'll take. I could glass bead it but it's too big for my cabinet. I'll have to waste the media into the air I guess. Another media I never tried is baking soda. I don't think it's all the destructive.

Yea, Scott, It is a little heavier we'll have to see how much weight to add. I have lots of room in the floor boards for lead shot.

[steamer]

Steve. The workmanship on your boom is spectacular. You are a very patient man with all the details your building into it. I've used both soda and dry ice for cleaning up parts. I personally like the dry ice best, because there's no clean up after. They both work very well for detailed parts because their meant for that type of work.
Rob

[9W Monighan]

Originally Posted by steamer

Steve. The workmanship on your boom is spectacular. You are a very patient man with all the details your building into it. I've used both soda and dry ice for cleaning up parts. I personally like the dry ice best, because there's no clean up after. They both work very well for detailed parts because their meant for that type of work.
Rob

How does the dry ice method work? Spray a CO2 fire extinguisher at it? I never heard of that other than stripping paint off of airplanes.