Great Dane excavating co.

[ihbuilder]

Originally Posted by Cooper

Lol!! Our Maine coon cat will sit on my lap at the mill and lathe if I let him!! And yes I quite often hear a woman's unhappy voice coming from the inner house rattling on about fur-carpet-floor and shiny pieces of aluminum.

you should see the floor in my wife's Jetta she use to park in the shop in the winter till the new lathe came . I don't think those chips will ever come out

vibration in trans did you use the oil-lite bushes or put ball bearings in (not needed by a long sea mile ) .

on edit : how tight do you have the mesh with the motor pinion and input gear ?

[Cooper]

Figure I can post some building tips if it helps anyone. Ever have these little tinny critters? Always a hard place to get to? Get some silicone hose (fuel line ect).



Press it into end of hose. Make a flexible nut driver to get started at least.


Like these ones inside the cab for the mirrors. Just thought I would share some tips along the way for those that have gorilla fingers and two left thumbs

[Cooper]

Originally Posted by ihbuilder

you should see the floor in my wife's Jetta she use to park in the shop in the winter till the new lathe came . I don't think those chips will ever come out

vibration in trans did you use the oil-lite bushes or put ball bearings in (not needed by a long sea mile ) .

on edit : how tight do you have the mesh with the motor pinion and input gear ?

Uhhhh , nope and I donna know? Lol!!! Bushings that were with kit. I assume I set the mesh lose, I do know that, guess I should just tear down. I coated everything with graphite instead of grease. Figure I have like a huge tub of it and no use for it .

[Cooper]

Getting ready for paint. I'm trying something new, I'm not using a adhesion promotor on the plastic but instead I soda blasted all plastic surfaces being painted. Just enough for some traction for paint but not gouging surface. This is the first time in trying this so we'll see how it works. I am using a sealer base coat.

[Cooper]

Sealer coat, some color mixed in


Final coat. Depending how durable it feels I may not clear. But it's turning out well so a clear is possible. Probably a urethane clear. I don't have any experience with this type of plastic, anyone use clear coats? As I didn't really seal or coat insides and don't know how a urethane will react. Can find out but figured I'll ask, as I will be using a test piece.

[Cooper]

And what a better time to start another project, getting back to that dump truck!! Building a 10wheeler. All drive axles. Pic in background is what I'm aiming for, close.

Purchased a rather rough shape dumper a little while back and quickly realized it would be a parts truck. Some left overs from aeromax daycab will help also. And this one is going back to my original idea of hydraulic lift cylinder. Have the one from magom(?). It's pretty small and uses 3mm tube. I think like 12 bar. And no guessing or math on this one!! Going to build it and then see if it's got enough pressure to lift a rather overloaded box!! Yup that good ole redneck logic!! (If you don't know how to fix it ,, tear it apart and look at the left over parts when you put it back together!) lol!!

[Cooper]

BOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



I would have had this done and been able to drive down to the pit outback in daylight but this pest kept getting in the way!!!









And the easy battery access



I did get a trip down to the pit but no video as it was too dark. This is my first rig and I don't know what to expect but have followed many others advise and threads. I quickly found out that any imperfections in the dirt road stopped the truck. Going down was easy but kept getting stuck on the way out. Now it's making me rethink the dumper build.


Ok which one is better for dirt roads and uneven surfaces? Axles with lockers or having front wheel drive? Obliviously front drive with lockers all around is best but I have rear (2) and front drive axles for the dumper build. But would have to purchase locking axles. My thoughts are for building the Aeromax dump truck with lockable rears and just stock front. Figure if it gets low on traction I can lock and still be able to have a good turning radius when not locked. Is that what you guys are doing?

[steamer]

Two things I would suggest are, six tooth pinion gear on the motor shaft, gives you way more torque. and go back on the rear end rigging and loosen all the hardware bolts so the axles will articulate better. If it's too ridged back there you can get stuck most anywhere. One more suggestion is softer more aggressive tire tread and super singles on the front. The Tamiya tires just plug up with sand and are too rigid just like your last picture. RC4WD tires work well on mine!

[Supermario]

Originally Posted by Cooper

Hey the truck has a vibration in the tranny? Common with plastic gears? Just ignore or should I look for bent shaft or messed up gears?

I had a similar problem with a noisy tranny. It wasn't improper meshing of gears. Turns out the pinion gear set screw was contacting the spur gear teeth. I'd check to see if that's the problem.

Mario

[RCP57]

I was super disappointed with how easy these trucks get stuck last year when I got mine. Coming from all 1/10 scale equipment that is WAY heavier and runs tires nearly twice the size, I guess I should have known but I was still like WTF? Anyway, at the urging of some friends I locked the rear axle to try it and it works much better. I just used hot glue and it is holding up fine so far, the best part being that with greasy gears the glue doesn't stick. It cools and takes the shape of the teeth but the pieces just come out when you take apart the diff without any fuss(I didn't have spare spider gears to use). Chaseracer has both axles locked permanently in his Autocar dump truck and it still steers fine loaded on dirt. I will be locking the front tandem in both my trucks too in the near future just to try it. My Hayes also gets better traction than my KH because it has my own springs and the shocks removed. Like Rob said, if you tighten everything up properly it won't articulate.

I also had the same issue as Mario with a smaller pinion I swapped on. I had to shim the motor back for clearance so that the set screw didn't hit the driven gear. Luckily for me I remembered his experience first and shimmed the motor prior to running it. May not be your issue but it's worth a look.

[TRUCKMAKER]

"Ok which one is better for dirt roads and uneven surfaces? Axles with lockers or having front wheel drive? Obliviously front drive with lockers all around is best but I have rear (2) and front drive axles for the dumper build. But would have to purchase locking axles. My thoughts are for building the Aeromax dump truck with lockable rears and just stock front. Figure if it gets low on traction I can lock and still be able to have a good turning radius when not locked. Is that what you guys are doing?"

Cooper, if you haven't read through LMACKATTACKS build thread on his ten wheeler dump truck it will help you decide how to set up your dump. http://www.rctruckandconstruction.co...ead.php?t=7706
I drove this truck for about 2 hours at the RCTandC spring meet and had a blast. It would go just about anywhere in the sandy mixed dirt. I'm currently building a dump using a TLT front drive axle with a scale 72.5" tandem spread based on a Hendrickson walking beam suspension. The steer axle is locked and the rear rear drive is also locked. It will have a scale 19' bed. This was based on things learned from LMacks build and the spring meet in Ill.

We need more animal pictures in this thread!

Sorry forgot to say nice job on the Areomax! I like the color.

[Cooper]

http://youtu.be/ArWMPF2HEYY

Hey trucker, it's not pictures but it covers all my animals (I was happy with one each but I caved into wife) and the Aeromax finished. I'll get to that thread, thanks!! It's what I want, as I'm planing on running the dump in dirt 99% of the time.

And I figured on beefing up the suspension. If I go with the front wheel drive I can now make new springs heavy duty. I got a sheet of spring steel, easy to work annelid, just have to heat treat when done.

Bottom spring is stock tamiya, top two are test builds. I made a quick jig to accurately bend. And surprising that steel in its state is really easy to shear and bend. Same thickness as stock (22 gauge I think). Once I get the right length and eyes bent the other leaves will be easy.

[TRUCKMAKER]

Nice video! I might get one of the cats to ride but I'd have to put a cardboard box on the trailer for them to ride in! There are empty boxes in various places around the house if you don't throw them away as soon as you take stuff out they fill up with a cat.

I bought F350 add on leaves from TamiyaUSA, 4 different lengths, in packs of 4 for about $4-6 a pack. Put them in the front and rear.

[Cooper]

4-6$ would be a lot easier!! I still like trying to make stuff too .

I did a quick test on two springs I made, one heat treated and one not. I just used mapp gas to heat, rather quick to glow. I don't know what the exact target temp or what temp I got to but for what I'm doing its fine with me.



Clamped both springs and applied pressure at eye to flat.



And the return rate. Must have tempered some. Definitely a lot more spring. The treated one will vibrate three times longer than non. So I'm on the right track.



And another project I've been thinking a lot about lately. Very few multi stage hydraulic cylinders out there. And ones that are available are very expensive. So,,, one I don't know what I'm getting into and that's why they are so pricey. 2, too much work and don't scale very well. 3, I'm just too green and ignorant to know any better. . 4, all of the above!! I'm going with # 4 and going to bite off more than I can chew. But I like the challenge. (At least that what I'm saying now.

Have some brass to experiment on. Stainless would be my choice but hard for me to work with.

[ihbuilder]

you will soon see why the price of a good 1 is what it is

[Cooper]

Originally Posted by ihbuilder

you will soon see why the price of a good 1 is what it is

Yea, I think your correct!! Maybe I should kick my own a$$. Lol!!! Gluten for punishment

[Cooper]

http://youtu.be/nRhksQpMkVM

Had to fire up the dozer today. Had some dirt that needed piled. And because we are a shoestring backwoods construction company we don't have a dump truck for moving any dirt. So the d11 gets to push up piles.

[Cooper]

Well I settled on building a single cylinder for the scissors lift I had originally built for the dumper. I wouldn't really know if it will work until I have it all hooked up and put some weight in the bed. Here are some pics of it so far. I will be removing some material from side of cylinder as walls are 1/8" . The bed will have plenty of dump angle, maybe too much.

[Supermario]

Nice work Ralph. Can't wait to see testing videos of it.

Where the heck is the pump/motor going to fit? Using a fuel tank style set up?

[Cooper]

That's what the plan is so far, pump to be housed in side tanks. I was going to eliminate a valve by using two pressure release valves. One on each line. When hoist reaches top or bottom prv will kick in if I don't stop pump. And hoist will be controlled by direction of pump. Basically be two loops and a cylinder in between. (Again that redneck physics kickin in) lol!!!

After eyeing this for a while I'm pretty sure I should move the pin at end of hoist , the one attaching to dump bed, closer to hoist hinge. To me it is too far and just going to create more force to lift. I could do the math and figure what force would be needed on the cylinder to lift X amount of weight , but no fun in that!!! As it is this type of fulcrum isn't really efficient but it is compact. And the further that bed pin is the harder to lift. But I have it as is and can do some tests (will video ) to see how she works before having to do all that relocation. A touch complicated to get all lined up!! I have one of those little magom pumps and I don't know what condition it's in. Have to get to work on plumbing the lines for cylinder.