1/16 Bucyrus Erie 25B

[Jared]

Thanks rustybucket. I for some reason I've always been fascinated with the old cable machines. I run modern excavators but I find the old stuff more interesting.

Thanks Papy. That's the story everywhere. I know of some guys that had a 15 or 22B. Notice my use of the word "had". A few years ago when scrap prices were really high, they fired it up, walked it on the lowboy and hauled it to the scrapyard. If I had known about it at the time, I might have offered them scrap value for it. I don't know what I would have done with it, but I hate to see good stuff like that thrown away.

Breaking news: Instead of a 22B, this has evolved into a 25B. Part of the reason is that the 25 is basically a beefed-up 22 and has a 1-yard rating instead of 3/4 and all I have to do is make 8 hook rollers instead of 6. But the main reason for doing it is so I can put a bigger bucket on it. I spent a bunch of time with the drawings Steve and Dan sent along with some old sales brochures and spec sheets I ordered and did a bunch more tweaking and adjusting of my drawings and here is the latest iteration, but not necessarily the last.
I'd change the thread title if I knew how (hint hint).

Hoping tomorrow to get out in the garage and make chips.

[tc1cat]

Changed the title for you.

[9W Monighan]

Here is what I have for the 25B. I don't have a parts book but I have a few operators and service manuals. They do contain a nice drawing of the carbody though. Hope this helps with the drawing tweaking.

[Jared]

Much appreciated, tc1cat.

Thanks Steve. There was a bit more info I was able to glean from those drawings. I'm finally starting to feel like the drawing is done and now all that's left is the actual building. It seems like with all the time I have into this so far the building will be the fast part , but I know better than that.

Got the fairlead pretty well nailed down.

[Jared]

Today I got the track frames 75% completed. The one I made earlier I had to remake because I changed it so it was 1/8" longer and .100" shorter in height. I didn't get any pictures of making them but I clamped them in the vice side-by-side and then when it was time to turn them over I put some little C-clamps on then turned them twice without disturbing the alignment. The first frame I made a few weeks ago took me about 5 hours to do. Doing these two together took 7 and I still have another hour or so to go, but still faster than making them separately. Managed to break off a 2-56 tap in a hole but I should be able to cook it out with a home brew solution I found on another forum. I can't remember the recipe but I think it uses alum.

[kerst]

Looks good!

[Espeefan]

Very cool build! I appreciate the photos of the stuff that goes on behing the scenes. Often times we just see machined parts in a complete state, and think nothing of it, but to see the fixtures and drawings is pretty neat. I'm always curious to know what kind of mill guys have. Whatchya got?

[Jared]

Thanks guys!

Nathan, I've got a Clausing 8530 mill. It's a pretty nice little machine. Only thing I wish was different about it is it would be nice to have more Y-axis, but other than that it's been able to do what I've wanted it to do.

A little progress over the weekend was the center bearing/slip ring mount or whatever you want to call it. There will be a hollow "pin" that will poke down through the machinery deck and into the bearing and keep everything centered. At least that's the plan, assuming my machining skills are up to it. We shall see. The other unknown is if this little slip ring is up to running mini-servos for the tracks. If it gets fried I might have to build one.

[9W Monighan]

Originally Posted by Jared

Thanks guys!

The other unknown is if this little slip ring is up to running mini-servos for the tracks. If it gets fried I might have to build one.

I was worried about my slip ring on my drag so I put one in that will handle 10 amp per circuit. Now I know my current draw for the whole machine while under a load: (1.5 amp @90VDC)
I could replace it with another twin that I have that has more circuits. With more circuits I can eliminate my radio all together and hard wire the machine to my master switches from the 1:1 machine.

[Jared]

My slip ring had a sticker on it that said "2 amps" but didn't say anything about at what voltage. I got it off ebay from someone catering to the home windmill power generation folks, whatever voltage windmills put out. If it doesn't work I have a bit of room to replace it with something bigger.

Latest progress is the swing circle. All that's left on it is to get the shaper running and cut gear teeth.





I was very happy with how everything bolted together. The swing circle locates the slip ring mount and both bolt to the carbody and it worked! Rotary tables are neat.



I decided to get started on track rollers. Had time for two tonight.

[androiduk]

Nice looking build Jared , there used to be a TV show called Salvage Squad in the UK they restored a 10RB on one of there shows might be worth having a look on Youtube to see if its there might have a few bits worth a look at.

Good luck hope the build goes ok.

Andy

[9W Monighan]

Now that carbody is showing some heft. What does it weigh now? Steel and brass really look nice together don't they.

[modelman]

Great work-it's coming along nicely. On the slip ring I don't think voltage matters. You just cannot exceed -2-amps per wire. If you have extra wires you could use-2-wires per circuit and have-4-amps if needed. Looking forward to seeing more.

[Jared]

Thanks, guys!

Steve, according to Alibre, the three parts together are 1.045 lbs if I made them exactly like they're drawn.

Tom, My slip ring has 6 circuits and my plan is to crimp servo plugs to them so I can make it "plug and play".
I'm looking forward to seeing more myself!

[RCKiwi]

That's some nice solid machining work there my friend and good progress too!
I like the machining/drilling jig
Glenn

[modelman]

Hi Jared-anything going on with this model? I see it 's been a few years since you posted. I enjoy these older machine models. How about some updated pictures.

[Rvjimd]

Tom,

Glad you bumped this thread up, I had not seen this one yet. I may have to steal some of the info for current and future projects. I would love to scratch something like the 22B in the near future.

And, ya, lets see some current info and pics on this build please. Don't tell us it has stalled...

Jim

[Jared]

Thanks guys. I hate to say it but yes it has stalled, but not due to lack of interest. I moved a couple years ago and no longer have a place for my tools so they are in storage. I keep thinking about how fun it will be to get the project going again but I don't know how long that will be. I still have all my drawings and haven't changed anything so it shouldn't be any trouble to pick up where I left off.

Steal away, Jim. That's what I do.

[Rvjimd]

Jared,

Couple of questions for you.

On the spring tension tag line, does it have any difficulty with changes in boom angle? I have done mine with a counter weight and I look at the spring version thinking it would hide the counter weight. But, I see LOT of movement in the counter weight when I boom up or down as the bucket moves further or closer to the boom.

And, I don't know how I missed the sand box clamshell video... That clam works GREAT! Did it work that good right off the bench? Did you have adjustments to make to it? I may take a second look at mine, maybe create another. I tend to use my drag bucket just because it works so much better than my clam. Hope you can find time to get back on the new crane project.

Thanks,

Jim

[Jared]

Wrong thread, Jim, but that's ok. The tagline is led out through the front of the machine down near the boom pins and then up to a sheave so nothing really changes with the boom angle. I had to monkey with the spring geometry trying different tension and pivot points on the lever. I'm still not completely satisfied with it but it's good enough.

It's been long enough that I can't remember for sure, but I think the bucket required adding weight to it. I had to use thicker material for the bottoms and add weight to the center bar to get it to open reliably. That sand is pretty fine so pretty much anything works in it. It's volcanic ash from Mt St Helens when it erupted in 1980. The same stuff the gift shops sell a 1/2 oz vial for 10 bucks and the sand pits sell for 2 bucks a yard.