evercoat poly-flex filler

[spudd]

dont know if anyone has tried this stuff but it is excellent,it is made for plastic and adheres great and is very flexible.sands like butter
it isnt cheap but well worth the $

it is evercoat poly-flex #100411

[ihbuilder]

thanks Spuddy I'll have to get that next time I go to my paint supply house the evercote glaze can get a lil brittle at times

[spudd]

i have used it on car bumpers now for a month and love it.the flex is outstanding

[chaseracer]

Originally Posted by spudd

dont know if anyone has tried this stuff but it is excellent,it is made for plastic and adheres great and is very flexible.sands like butter
it isnt cheap but well worth the $

it is evercoat poly-flex #100411

I got the same stuff, to use on my autocar project. put it on let it set and was ready to sand , and I could pull it off the body like a layer of skin. wouldnt stick to body. well did in some parts but still not great. so frustrated now the body a mess I feel like scraping the whole thing.

[fhhhstix]

Originally Posted by chaseracer

I got the same stuff, to use on my autocar project. put it on let it set and was ready to sand , and I could pull it off the body like a layer of skin. wouldnt stick to body. well did in some parts but still not great. so frustrated now the body a mess I feel like scraping the whole thing.

I would say it is one of three problems. 1 body prep was not done right scuffing the surface and removing contaminates. 2 the filler and hardener was not mixed correctly. 3 incompatibility of the material being covered. Don't give up just clean it off and try again. I always clean my parts with rubbing alcohol and let them dry for a few min before I add body filler or primer. A good tack cloth also works good for getting rid of the dust left behind that compressed air or a wipe down with a rag just wont get.

I have been using the new poly flex and I have been so impressed I through away the other ever-coat fillers I had.

Travis

[fhhhstix]

Also if you are using compressed air to blow things off make sure you are using a separator and a filter in line to stop oil and water from getting on the model. Even worse if contaminates from the compressed air are getting on the model then you use a rag to wipe it off you are just smearing the contaminants all over the model. Just some things to think about.

Travis

[chaseracer]

thanks travis, I belive it is one of those factors too, I don't get as much time as I want to work on my hobbies so when I do I tend rush it , so it was probably that. I will start peeling the filler off and start all over. time to get my butt in gear and start building and working on that stuff again. have to get motavated hard to do that latley.

[JAMMER]

Rubbing alcohol is not a good product to us it has water in it what you want is denatured alcohol you can get it at Home Depot in quarts and gallons. Prep-Sol is what body shops use to clean off contamination you get that at your body shop supply store. Ed

[fhhhstix]

Originally Posted by JAMMER

Rubbing alcohol is not a good product to us it has water in it what you want is denatured alcohol you can get it at Home Depot in quarts and gallons. Ed

Denatured alcohol is not friendly with styrene it tends to melt it. That is why I use rubbing alcohol and give it time to dry before working with it and at 92% that doesn't have a lot of water in it. The rubbing alcohol wont add near as much water as when we wet sand the cabs.

Travis

[spudd]

all i can say is make sure you scuff up the area you are working on with at least 220 grit.drying time is also a factor as Travis said.i don't bother to wipe down the area but it is a good idea to.i have yet to have a adhesion problem

[JAMMER]

Travis I guess you missed the part were I said that body shops use Prep-Sol to get rid of the contamination and it is more compatible with the materials you use to clean what you are painting or filling. Ed

[fhhhstix]

Originally Posted by JAMMER

Travis I guess you missed the part were I said that body shops use Prep-Sol to get rid of the contamination and it is more compatible with the materials you use to clean what you are painting or filling. Ed

No I did not miss it you edited you post at 5:08 and I posted at 5:07 so you edited your post after I posted so there is no way I could have seen it before I posted. Just so you know Prep-Sol is a water based product.





Travis

[ihbuilder]

easy guys I use to have flaking and peeling with evercoat glase ( can't remember the # ) on plastic > my remedy was a good scratching before use and be sure you have your mix right , not to much or to little hardner. I haven't used the new stuff yet as metioned by Spudd , soon though Oh , obviously make sure you have no impurities ie water , oil , etc .

[Brian in PA]

Adhesion is only going to happen if the surface is scuffed. this is a must with any coating used in auto body work. the surface has to be scuffed/etched for a mechanical adhesion.

[chaseracer]

thanks for all the help guys. I did lightly sand the body with 220 grit but either didn't scuff enough of didn't clean it well enough. I will get it figured out I hope

I have always used 3m bondo filler for my other scale rc projects, and never had peeling problem before, but it srinks to much for my liking . I have heard great stuff about the ever-coat so I will get this figured out.

again thanks for the help guys. nice to have forums like this

[TRUCKMAKER]

I bought the Evercoat Poly-flex 411 and read this thread before I used it, followed Travis'
advice, 220 grit scuff, 91% rubbing alcohol let it set over night and then put the putty on it and it worked nice. As far as peeling and flaking, I used a scrap peice of styrene to mix on, since it was smooth the dried putty peeled right off. I started to get some peeling because the mix started to set as I was going around the top of the cab. When it kicks off it goes pretty fast. I just stopped, cleaned the flakey stuff off and made a new batch to finish with. Thanks for all the help out there!