Great Dane excavating co.

[Cooper]

Just an estimate if I can run 400 psi. I have hose rated to 350 and have been using it with no heat breaks or leaks. That's what it's rated for so I'm sure it can handle a bit more

[Cooper]

This is the cylinder I had made for the dump project, just to show size,



One of the 4200 cylinder side by side. Same .75 od with same .315 rod. (Standardmetric ruler ). 4200 has id of .635, that equates to more hydraulic pressure but I think 80 pounds will be plenty with the .5 id of the brass rod I have. I purchase the rod already. I tried to drill/lathe out but it's me or my machine, I can't get precise results on the longer cylinders.

[RCP57]

Sweet! I think the air line that I use is rated for 300psi and the burst strength is 1200psi. I run around 435psi in my excavator and have never had a hose blow.

[thebigo]

Very nice Coop, I think you made the right decision. These excavators , in my opinion, are kinda nice the way they come stock, but the scale of the cab is really off. Really think you are doing it the right way and I need to remember this thread when I go about my transformation on my 4200 some day.

Oh, I like that you are making it a Cat, Joe Idea is good for the 345 series.

David

[Cooper]

Ok it's done 345 it will be . Or close to resembling one , logo and number .



Last night I got most of the wiring done. I put bullet connectors on most everything. I hope to make enough room that I can have those two 3s batteries in there, more weight at back and 10amps to play for a while. I wish I could find a controller like saber tooth for brushless motors. I could then mod the radio with an xbox joystick for track drives.

[Cooper]

Had some time before it got dark to formally test the dumptruck.

http://youtu.be/ZVABVUYxeqQ

And did a little off roading, it had rained early in morning so dirt was wet but not muddy. The camera doesn't really show but it was a pretty decent incline for her to walk up. And then just had to use the front bumper for a plow in the piles

http://youtu.be/rDs9KJvIA7s

[Supermario]

Love the dump truck Coop. looks like a great job site workhorse for all seasons.

I also wondered what Cat model to repaint my 4200. Based on undercarriage width of 10" that does suit a 345. Adding to the upper structure will definitely add to the 345 look.

For me, I'm going with a 330B. I've worked on so many of them years ago, only seems appropriate I have one at home to work on again.

[Cooper]

Originally Posted by Supermario

Love the dump truck Coop. looks like a great job site workhorse for all seasons.

I also wondered what Cat model to repaint my 4200. Based on undercarriage width of 10" that does suit a 345. Adding to the upper structure will definitely add to the 345 look.

For me, I'm going with a 330B. I've worked on so many of them years ago, only seems appropriate I have one at home to work on again.

Thanks Mario, I never get to run the big stuff, usually mini exes and skidsteer. I think if I can get the cab scaled down and a bigger exhaust cover that will help the scale look. Like I said before if I mess it all up the logos and numbers will be good enough for scale . Lol!! I would love to put better hydraulic pump and valves in but cost is making me think. Oh maybe Santa can read this

[Cooper]

And just an idea of undercarriage speed. I have it set to 45% and brakes too.
http://youtu.be/fq0uvQuRmuc

[Lil Giants]

The undercarriage would be a great deal of work to reproduced in steel, but seeings how you're re-doing the house anyway, why not do it all from scratch with plate steel to get your weight up? No point going big power on hydraulics if it aint gonna stay planted.

You could mill down each center grouser bar of each pad a few mm so it grabs the ground better too.

[Cooper]

I'll look I to that joe, more weight would be good. And if it's possible to mill the middle groused out and keep tracks together I may do that. There should be more spacing between shoes also. Wouldn't bind as much. I just don't want to have to remove and install all those roll pins .

Between shoveling and plowing I got a good window seat today

[Cooper]

Between sporadic work calls and thanksgiving I got some more done, I'll just post the pics. Hope you guys like pics, I always like to see what others do

[Cooper]

Made this up so I could get precise 180 degree cuts, I had this collets and never use them, use r8 now. And don't want to switch to ER collets.





Soldered ends on temporarily to mill ends




Reusing the ball ends, saves a lot of work turning those little ends!!





Now on to the hard lines and trashing a lot of wrong bends!!! (Hopefully not but pretty sure). Some thing I've learned along way, I'm using stainless (forget the number ) but got the easy machinable stuff and wow it's like easy to cut!! Got new industrial (not hobby grade ) taps and cutting oil. It really makes a difference on this stainless. I always cringed when I had to work with stainless, work hardening and just tuff on my tooling. Now that I got correct stuff and tightened up the lathe it really isn't as difficult to work as I had experienced before. Yup I'm capable of learning!!! Lol!!! Now I have to drill and tap a bunch of 2-56 holes for the cylinder hardware. I use to use rotary table but for anyone fairly new to machining purchase a dro unit!! I don't know how I could do without!! Oh and took the time to get precise numbers on loading the seals and clearances on cylinder/rod. Have been exact down to .0005+\- on seals and .001+\- on length of cylinder/rods/pistons. So hopefully some long life before any leaks and not too much resistance on hydraulics.

[Lil Giants]

Many great pics of the process RW, thanx for taking the time to post them.

[doodlebug]

Yah, that stuff!
Cheers!

[Cooper]

No problem, hope some might give some insight into the processes. And for those that are machinists, if you see something wrong or easier please tell

Well spent the better part of my toy time making parts to make tools to make parts.
First I had to make a cutter for 5/16 tubing die


Then had to turn out a couple 5/16 dies, 3/4", 1" and a 1/2". And this is what I came up with to get those impossible tight bends in tubing (and making them look good).


That's the 3/4" bend. I don't know if I'll need a tighter bend.

[Lil Giants]

Did you use heat to bend it or just bend it?

[Cooper]

I did take the hand torch to it before bending. And let it cool then a bit of oil on the roller and bent to shape. The brass will re temper over time, not by a quench. Now if I can make some measure marks and degree lines I'll be in great shape!!

[Cooper]

Made some boom support for the stick like the cats have, drilled-bolted together to keep symmetry.


And that Crome ball in the vise is from my wedding, the name cards were in the slit for on the tables. They are hard steel and have a flat bottom. Perfect for irregular shapes in the vise





I wanted to take apart the boom and stick but the hardware is seized. Heated and pounded but a few will not move, stripped the heads so it's being worked on as one piece.

[Cooper]

Replacing all the pivot parts and installing bushings and stainless shafts. Also trying to reinforce the arm but keeping it simple.




Once everything is together and ready for paint most of the hardware is going to be filled over and sanded smooth. I figure I can't take it apart and if I had a tig it would have been welded anyway.