D8R +463 in 1/5,6

[JAMMER]

Hello Dan this is only a suggestion but why don't you use a small air pump and a solenoid to work your ripper? Ed

[D8R]

Hello Dan this is only a suggestion but why don't you use a small air pump and a solenoid to work your ripper? Ed

Hi Ed, thanks but I don't have any more channels on RC left, the seller talked me into buying 9 ch instead of 7 ch, and they are used so I will have to use some finger force to change position on ripper.

To something complete different, you may have read about coming model mentioned above (Thanks Reg you gave me some new inspiration), today when buying some helicoil I strolled around in shop and found:



I always looks at shelfs with tires/wheels to see if there is anything that could be useful for coming models, this tire was a new addition to the store, messurments are very close to 315/80R22,5 in 1:5,6 scale:
8" tall, 4" (almost) wheel size and 3,5" wide (a little to wide for us trucks on bogie).
I know this is not a common wheelsize but if it is this or having to get custom made tires ($$$$$$$) maybee I can live with that.
Bad side is that wheel is solid but that can be an advantage when making treads. But as you see, it has a more prototypical look than most other wheels I have seen.
Anyone that has been doing tread cutting in solid wheels??
Pricetag was ok, $15. Wheels will be replaced with prototypical looking ones.

Don't know if I dare to wait and hope finding better ones or make an order for 18 pcs

At home I couldn't resist to dig into the storage to get my old drawing of a Kenworth tractor. If I build one it would most likely be a Pete 359, have a real one so no problem with getting all needed messurments.



Any suggestion or comment velcome
Dan

[doodlebug]

Hey Dan, have you been on the amerityre website, not home, so no link.
They have some nice tire's, I talked with IH builder steve about these a while
Back. Hope to be home in a week.
Cheer's, Neil.

[RCP57]

Awesome! It's funny how we all motivate one another to build more stuff! I've been keeping an eye out for large tires(8-10") as well at a local parts and surplus store and they had some a while back that would have worked for my brain fart of an idea but I didn't buy any and now they don't have them any more.

I hope you start this build soon regardless of what brand of truck you make. If it has half of the detail that your dozer has it will be amazing!

Reg

[D8R]

Awesome! It's funny how we all motivate one another to build more stuff! I've been keeping an eye out for large tires(8-10") as well at a local parts and surplus store and they had some a while back that would have worked for my brain fart of an idea but I didn't buy any and now they don't have them any more.

I hope you start this build soon regardless of what brand of truck you make. If it has half of the detail that your dozer has it will be amazing!

Reg

Yes Reg, know the feeling of not buying when items available. Will order 18 of those this week, 10 needed for tractor but the lowboy needs smaller ones (rest 8 for possible other trailer). Did put the tire in lathe today but wheel/tire assembly was so wobbling so it was not possible to test cut any pattern. Removed wheel, need to make a new holder for tire before testing again.

Truck and trailer will have details to, like to do those and it adds a lot of attention (easier to do in this bigger scale).

Did mill the oval holes in ripper (made of Hardox wear). Got info from my friend having a real one where to position them.



With ripper in lowest position, it will be possible of ripping 22cm/9" of material (I hope so). The weight of this ripper assembly are 22lbs/10kg now. With this position ripper tipp is almost hitting ground when ripper holder is as high it can come.



Pin puller got new pins instead of over sized bolts



Started up next part today, engine compartment with it´s doors and base for hood. This is supposed to be last parts made , after this structure I will concentrate on engine start up and last modification on cylinders/hydraulics.
Of course will door handle work as proto do, have not decided if I should do the safety lockers (no, they are to small)



Dan

[ihbuilder]

looks good , Dan . Any issues on milling the hardox ? I was told by the guys I know @ JMH Trailers that it's a little tough on the mill . Are you making a cap for the ripper shank ?

[Stefan]

Wow, you are really in building mood/mode, Dan (wish I was, too). Very nice parts!

Stefan

[D8R]

Originally Posted by ihbuilder

looks good , Dan . Any issues on milling the hardox ? I was told by the guys I know @ JMH Trailers that it's a little tough on the mill . Are you making a cap for the ripper shank ?

Thanks Steve, milling in Hardox was no problem, started with some drilled holes. I have also drilled and counter sunk holes in the cutting edges (also made in Hardox) for the blade without any problem. Tools with sharp edges seems to cut nice in this material.
Cap , sorry don't know what that is, if it should be there I guess have to make it. Any pics or description?

Wow, you are really in building mood/mode, Dan (wish I was, too). Very nice parts!

Stefan

Thanks Stefan, yes, have been busy making this model finished, spring season coming soon and has some gardening work to do
Or maybee focus is slipping more to next model, BUT I will not start that build before this is ready.

Have worked with the engine doors, got them milled to accept hinges.


When open you have axcess to engine and checking oil. Still need the locking part inside door. Door frame should get some stabilazer side ways, doors are quite heavy, 2mm steel plate.



More steel plates in rear of engine compartment to be done and finishing the hood next on the list "to do".
Dan

[ihbuilder]

"CAP" would be the same on a loader bucket . It's hard to see on the D8 you have posted here pushing snow , But it looks like it's there . I'm going to make some for my 990 . I have no way to cast steel like the realy 1's . So , I'll be machining them in 2 halves and weld them together much like Steve did on his dragline for the cable loops .

[Lil Giants]

CAP- replaceable tooth.

I suppose what Steve is referring to is a wider tooth for your shank to keep the wear off the shank itself while its penetrating the ground.

What you have already looks good for a cap.. can certainly see the parting line of the welded tip from the shank itself.

[D8R]

yes, that´s correct, the tip and cover above are made of 2 identical pieces welded together. The shape of those are removed from shank and parts welded/soldered in place. Missing is the pin normally holding tip in place, that will be drilled and inserted (no function, only visual).
/Dan

[ihbuilder]

Originally Posted by Lil Giants

CAP- replaceable tooth.

I suppose what Steve is referring to is a wider tooth for your shank to keep the wear off the shank itself while its penetrating the ground.

What you have already looks good for a cap.. can certainly see the parting line of the welded tip from the shank itself.

FWIW , I think I was misunderstood . I merely asked if Dan was going to make a "cap" since his level of detail is literally perfect . But , now that I look at it again with my glasses on I see

OTOH , It looks great Dan . As for the Hardox , I might have not heard the guy right . He's a welder and sounds like he has emphysema . Couple that with someone who has 75% hearing lost .

[D8R]

Very little time in workshop right now, but redid the tip so it looks like excangeble parts. Still need some heating to braze it in place (now only hold by 2 small weld spots). The parts was done long ago, didn't have all documentation at that time, maybee do a complete new one later. Only thing bother me now is the material going downwards from middle hole, but that can be milled away. During this build that has been going on for last 10 years (yes slow builder but a couple of 1000's hours invested in it) the information I have on the original dozer has grown, so has my self learned skills in all type of machine workshop works also grown. When looking back, if started all over again, I have made it in another way. But that's what hobby is, enhansing your skills while having fun.



Dan

[buzzy16]

Wow this looks amazing!! How much does it weigh?

[D8R]

Hello buzzy, thanks, the machine is around 450lbs (205kg) now, will be another 25- 30lbs when "filled up" with fluids. Yes, the hydaulic system have more than 2 gallon of oil!

The ripper tooth is 4,5lbs (2kg), the big scale adds up a lot of weight.
When starting this build I made some calculations, in my thoughts then was a model weight of 140kg. The "scale" weight was calculated to 216kg so it turns out that I'm hitting the weight almost spot on!
Dan

[buzzy16]

Ha wow that's going to be an awesome thing to control, I'd love to have something that big to control, and the ripper looks very mean!!
Congrats on the build so far, hope to see lots of running vids of you ripping thing up

[ihbuilder]

looks great Dan, I can see it now

[catmack]

Dan,

It looks great, maybe I missed the thread but, did you make the control valve for the drive motors?

[D8R]

Originally Posted by catmack

Dan,

It looks great, maybe I missed the thread but, did you make the control valve for the drive motors?

HI, I think you find answer on page 8 and #152, there´s good pics showing the control valve mounted. No, I did buy them, they are HAWE propotional valve with open centre making only needed oil go thru valve, rest goes around, making less heat I hope. Drive motors gives 90% torque at 0rpm, but with my reduction 1:4 it will smoothen out motors movement.

Dan

[D8R]

Weekend update:
Finaly got all hydraulics (return lines) inside machine connected together , still to connect cylinders on ripper and cylinder for blade control sideways.

Here's pic showing connections


Have made some handle bars before on cab, needed 2 more on hood. made a small press tool to form end of hand rails like the real ones.



With bars mounted on hood (and hood mounted on sides)


Need now a wall between engine room and cab, will try get some help welding on hood, don't dare doing it myself, hood is $$$

Dan