1/16 Bucyrus-Monighan Walking Dragline

[SmallHaul]

Looks strong and heavy. I see more counter weight in your future.

[9W Monighan]

I want to darken the brass with black patina hopefully Tom. That's going to take alot of elbow grease to clean everything so it'll take. I could glass bead it but it's too big for my cabinet. I'll have to waste the media into the air I guess. Another media I never tried is baking soda. I don't think it's all the destructive.

Yea, Scott, It is a little heavier we'll have to see how much weight to add. I have lots of room in the floor boards for lead shot.

[steamer]

Steve. The workmanship on your boom is spectacular. You are a very patient man with all the details your building into it. I've used both soda and dry ice for cleaning up parts. I personally like the dry ice best, because there's no clean up after. They both work very well for detailed parts because their meant for that type of work.
Rob

[9W Monighan]

Originally Posted by steamer

Steve. The workmanship on your boom is spectacular. You are a very patient man with all the details your building into it. I've used both soda and dry ice for cleaning up parts. I personally like the dry ice best, because there's no clean up after. They both work very well for detailed parts because their meant for that type of work.
Rob

How does the dry ice method work? Spray a CO2 fire extinguisher at it? I never heard of that other than stripping paint off of airplanes.

[steamer]

Here's a link to some new small one's.
http://www.coldjet.com/en/products/d...FQsGbAodnBc1bA
The one we used the ice came in 4ft square tote and was dumped into a hopper on the machine. I see this small one will use blocks and it even shaves the ice for use. It did a great job of cleaning up the old car body and leaves no rust behind. Two years ago we used a truck mounted one to take the painted runway numbers up at the airbase here. we had a limited time to do it and it worked well. No damage to the concrete.
Rob

[9W Monighan]

Originally Posted by steamer

Here's a link to some new small one's.
http://www.coldjet.com/en/products/d...FQsGbAodnBc1bA
The one we used the ice came in 4ft square tote and was dumped into a hopper on the machine. I see this small one will use blocks and it even shaves the ice for use. It did a great job of cleaning up the old car body and leaves no rust behind. Two years ago we used a truck mounted one to take the painted runway numbers up at the airbase here. we had a limited time to do it and it worked well. No damage to the concrete.
Rob

Interesting, Pretty expensive I imagine, can one be rented?

[steamer]

Yes That's what we did and to be honest with you I can't remember the cost, although it was reasonable compared to sand. Sand on old car bodies can be very aggressive depending on the grit. I would guess in your area a look in the yellow pages might work under cleaning and blasting. Someone may have a setup and you could take the boom to them.

[ihbuilder]

Steve , look into walnut shells . I heard of that being used also

[9W Monighan]

Originally Posted by ihbuilder

Steve , look into walnut shells . I heard of that being used also

I thought of walnut too. I used corn cob media to blast my Caterpillar Sixty engine because I didn't want to tear it apart.

[eef7260]

Wow Steve

This is gone be one of the most detailed and beautiful booms i have seen.
I see you are searching for blasting methods i think you will be a extremely happy when that is done.

When the whole boom is done and blasted you need to sit down around it with a few good friends and simply look at it and enjoy it for hours and a have few beer.

Eef

[9W Monighan]

Originally Posted by eef7260

Wow Steve

This is gone be one of the most detailed and beautiful booms i have seen.
I see you are searching for blasting methods i think you will be a extremely happy when that is done.

When the whole boom is done and blasted you need to sit down around it with a few good friends and simply look at it and enjoy it for hours and a have few beer.

Eef

I'll be enjoying a few cold ones while digging soon. All I need is the boom lighting for the second shift

[ihbuilder]

Originally Posted by 9W Monighan

I'll be enjoying a few cold ones while digging soon. All I need is the boom lighting for the second shift

LOL and a truck to load

[eef7260]

LOL and a truck to load

A truck load of beer ??

[rc_farmer]

Your metal workis off the chart!!! Fantastic job on the boom. I wish i had the "metal" skills you guys. I'm still learning how to chuck-up my lathe

[9W Monighan]

Originally Posted by rc_farmer

Your metal workis off the chart!!! Fantastic job on the boom. I wish i had the "metal" skills you guys. I'm still learning how to chuck-up my lathe

My brain is recharging for the next step I have to take and that's to remove the ''A'' frame and drill a few hundred more holes for the diagonal bracing and mainly I need to get the suspension rope sheaves mounted up there.

Just watch you don't chuck up your lathe too much. Maybe you need a bigger chucker.

[9W Monighan]

Got alittle done this weekend on the boom suspension ropes. Not much because I'm getting parts ready to go to the sand blaster for my antique road grader restoration.

I had to drill the "A" frame sheave shafts at a 3deg angle so they will track inline with the boom taper to the point.


The shafts for the point sheaves


I didn't have any 3/8'' hex stock handy,so I milled some round stock to suit.

[modelman]

Steve-very nice as always! How did you drill accurately thru both pcs. of metal with the A-frame mounted at an angle. Or is this secret stuff?

[pugs]

Spot drill both layers

[9W Monighan]

Originally Posted by modelman

Steve-very nice as always! How did you drill accurately thru both pcs. of metal with the A-frame mounted at an angle. Or is this secret stuff?

Well PUGS is partly correct. Originally I drilled the big plates stacked together with a 1/4'' hole. But when I did that I forgot about the 3deg angle. When I fabricated the channels I didn't drill them. When I set this up,I located the outer hole with my Co-ax indicator then I plunged a 1/4'' endmill down to spot face the next layer (channel) and that made the plate hole oblong. Next I went in with a 7/32'' screw machine drill because I don't have a long center drill handy and drilled through the second and got a longer drill bit for the third. Next came a 15/64'' drill then the 1/4'' reamer. Finally I drilled everything out with a 9/32'' drill. I would have bored to the finish size of 9/32'' if I had a longer boring tool that would fit in a 1/4'' hole. I need to make some bushings that fit the hole and will have the a 1/4'' bore for the shaft yet to come.
All the diagonal bracing in the "A" frame is going to be real fun to figure out. Currently I'm going over my designs from 3yrs ago making sure where to place all the holes for them.
I'm also looking into the wire rope needed. I need a total of 240' of 7x19 3/64'' for the boom. One of the 4 pieces is 167' and that's a small problem. I found I guy on ebay with 100' coils,none longer cheap. I'm going to have to bite the bullet and order from McMaster Carr now and it'll be around $215 instead of the $30 I checked at a local cable and sling co. near me and they couldn't get any either. They did have coated galvanized they use in race car parachutes I could have for next to nothing but too stiff and the OD slightly larger and won't fit in my sheaves.

[td9clyde]

nice work on the point sounds like your having cable problems like me i can't find anything that isn't stiff like the 7 twist galvanized in 1/16th and thats kinda what i need just not so stiff..........keep up the awsome work