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Construction Equipment If it digs, pushes, hauls dirt "off road" post it here. |
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#1
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Thanks...glad you like it!! Slowly getting it done....as soon as I decide on a place to store pics I will continue to show more of the build and bring it up to date....
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#2
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Looking Good, If you decide to swap out the rear axle, this an idea to take a gander at.
http://www.surpluscenter.com/Power-T...ET-13-1500.axd Cheer's, Neil. |
#3
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That would work....if it was a bit smaller or if this truck was a bit bigger...LOL
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#4
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Looking good man! I can see that it won't be long now and it will be running! I also know from experience that it sucks to have a truck without a loader so something tells me that the loader will be started pretty soon!
That's a good find Neil. I've never seen one that is that small. Too bad there isn't a place like that in Canada to buy from. |
#5
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(don't tell anyone...but I tried this thing out at the shop today....HEEHEE..) |
#6
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...and how did it go???? Did it steer??? |
#7
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How did what go ??? Can't tell ya !!!
( Hey man.... I told you not to tell anyone !!!!..... LOL....I will add more soon....) |
#8
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Great job on the 777 lot of nice ideas and it also helps to have a water jet close at hand. You have put some great thought into this build and it shows. I would like to do one to match my 1/12 scale excavator with some changer to what you did. Keep up the good work you have a talent. Ed
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#9
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#10
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I see what you mean about "SPACE".
Cheer's, Neil. |
#11
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Thanks for the link!!...yes a diff. would be much better!!! but space is a problem even on this bigger model...the axle housing (pipe) is about 2.850" OD
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#12
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#13
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Sweet! Now lets see it driving around!
A friend of mine is running a brand new PC5500 face shovel in a BC coal mine. Yesterday he dropped by for a Xmas visit with a present for me...A 400 page operation and maintenance manual for the machine... In 1/10 it will be 35" tall at the house, and about 29" wide with the standard tracks. I'm not sure if I will try to build it but if I did it would be huge. |
#14
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Hi, thats a fine steering setup you've got there) The speed seams more than fast enough i would say. Is that just a standard servo? It seams to follow the stick, is it some special programing that makes the servo travel that many turns in each direction, is it available on several kinds of radios? what about the pot.meter that usually is in the servos, is it removed or?
I've got a Airtronics Sd-10G here, that I really haven't started to get that familiar to yet, but I noticed something in the book about adjusting servos up to 150% travel. On your, you must have but it to several 1000% travel? Last edited by Rimrock; 12-21-2013 at 10:44 AM. |
#15
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A PC5500 in 1/10 would be awesome!!! If you build it you almost won't need your mini ex. anymore. What about the PC3000, just a bit smaller http://www.equipmentcentral.com/nort...nt/ACF1184.pdf |
#16
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This is such a cool build to watch, and you are making incredible progress! I'm glad you got some larger photos up. I like your drivetrain and that steering system is pretty cool. I hadn't seen that style servo rack on servocity before. Those guys are constantly coming up with lots of new products. Genius idea on limiting the rear suspension travel, with those new arms and the set screw stops too.
I hope you don't mind, but I'd like to offer a suggestion for your steering knuckle drag links are set up. I've tried an identical system just like that before and I found that you can't get the proper ackerman geometry with it. The inside (of the turn) tire should turn in sharper than the outside. It makes a huge difference in steering. Right now, yours is the opposite. On a heavy truck like this, you might notice an improvement even more so than smaller models. It will 'plow' less in the turns. It looks you could pretty easily fix the geometry, if you wanted, without changing anything but the way your drag links are bolted to the center steering arm. You just need to swap the right and left side drag links, where they mount to the center arm, with each other. Obviously you can't do that without interference, unless you bolt one drag link on the top of the arm to the top of the steering knuckle, and one on the lower side of both the arm and the knuckle. Picture worth a thousand words.... ![]() I don't know if you have the room for changing the drag links to one under, one over, but if you do, give it a shot, and then take your truck for another drive to check how much better it steers. Like I said, I've been there, tried that! Just wanted to share my experiences. I hope you don't mind me suggesting this, and my intention is not to offend you. I can't wait to see this truck all finished up!
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Nathan |
#17
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Best part of being on here is learning from others...thanks for the input!! Here is a screen shot of what I used to set up the steering on the truck at full lock....maybe I did this wrong?? [IMG] ![]() |
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#19
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I need all the help I can get.....I still make things wrong ten times...I just make more mistakes faster....
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#20
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![]() Because your center steering arm swings in a substantial arc, the drag links do not maintain much parallelism with each other. With the wheels turned to the left, the more steering throw you add, the more out of parallel the right side link becomes. The result is the right link pushes the right knuckle more than the left link pulls the left knuckle. The knuckle on the right is at a greater angle, which is exactly the opposite effect you are after. Does that make sense, or am I barking up the wrong tree? ![]()
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Nathan |
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