Ny-Lint Mobile Dragline Conversion

[Rvjimd]

Kent,

I had forgotten about yours. That extension looks nice and must be at least twice as long as the one I'm building.

Tom, I checked the boom. My extension is 4.5" and the new total is 27" center to center.

Jim

[Rvjimd]

Getting the boom extension finished up. I saw this sheet metal tip on a YouTube channel I think it was mrpete222. He was cutting sheet metal with a hammer and chisel. I saw it and thought it looked pretty crude and completely nuts. But, I got bored and had to try it! I can't believe how GOOD it actually works, so I made a quick video with some pictures and video of the last section of boom extension.

http://youtu.be/CbCeD10j9hg

Jim

[Rvjimd]

Here is the boom extension installed and painted yellow. Didn't have any blue on hand, not sure what to think about the yellow section?







Jim

[Mikem]

Looks great !

[Rvjimd]

Man, this thread is worthless without the photos.

Here are a few of them in a video format.

http://youtu.be/h_wDThHiDg4

Jim

[frizzen]

Thank you very much for the montage video!

Do you still have any of the other videos on your youtube account?

[Rvjimd]

Frizz, glad to help out. I think the dragline videos of mine that survived are the new ones of the crawler undercarriage.

Did a bit of work in the shop yesterday, made two pulleys on the lathe and found a fairlead drawing that I'm going to use as an example. We will see how it goes. I'm not sure how I'm going to do it yet? I found an old thread on the die cast forum where 9W milled the one on the 9W from a solid block.

I was looking at it yesterday thinking maybe making it in two or three parts and bolting it together. I would like to keep the easy conversion from drag to clam if I can.



Pulleys to check size/scale.



Jim

[Rvjimd]

Question:

Since this thing sort of floats and is able to pivot, should the final rollers be positioned a bit off center high so that the rope would tend to keep the final rollers vertical? In the drawing it looks like it is on center.

Jim

[modelman]

Hi jim-good to see you working on the dragline again. I have this one old picture that may help.-

I think most of the old machines drove from the lug in the center of the track pad. You can see in this picture one lug is inside and one lug is outside of the tumbler.

[Rvjimd]

Tom, thanks for the picture. Do you know what brand or age the machine is? I'm curious about when or why they decide to use various style lugs and drive tumblers.

Jim

[modelman]

Jim-sorry but no I do not know the year or model. Here is another picture. It doesn't help but just shows it is a small machine.-

It could be a Koehring, not sure. There is a guy on here named "bartles" that is building a model of a Koehring 305 dragline. He sent me these pictures. Look on page-8-for his thread but he hasn't been on here for a long time.

[Rvjimd]

Progress on the crawler update. I machined a few new drive dogs for track pads and made a new main and center idler wheel. I need at least four more small idlers then I can test the new design.



Jim

[Jared]

Wow, those are some nice track pads! I think you will want to make the sides of the rollers and idler thicker so they don't wear down as fast. Maybe about twice as thick. At least that would be a problem on a 1:1 machine that sees thousands of hours of operation.

[Rvjimd]

Jared,

Ya, you are spot on! Problem is, to do them any wider I will have to move the frame rail out and that changes everything else down there. So for testing, I'm going with it as is. If I like the new tumbler and drive arrangement i plan to widen the rails and make new parts.

Jim

[modelman]

Jim-I like the way you made the lugs on the track pads but was just wondering why you made the tumbler so wide. I'm sure you have a plan. Have you wrapped the pads around the tumbler to see if they will work. I always had a problem with this part. I never quite figured out how to do this. I got close but never got it perfect.

[Rvjimd]

Tom,

They wrap around pretty good, I am hopeful that they might work better than the old style I tried first.

I know what you mean about the width. I may be wrong, but to fit/clear the lugs on the pads I made them as wide as the base of the lug plus the width of the side walls of the tumbler.

Thought I was going to be testing by now but I busted off a 6-32 tap in the tumbler and screwed it up trying to get it out. Darn I hate breaking taps!

I have a replacement half finished, but got sidetracked the rest of the day getting camping gear ready for the trip out to Brownsville.

With any luck I will get to try one side Sunday.

Jim

[9W Monighan]

Get some #5-40 taps Jim. They are smaller but the finer thread make it easier to tap.

[Rvjimd]

Made some progress this weekend. Here is the new prototype drive tumbler just about ready to go back together for a test. I will make a new wider one with wider side flanges, once I see how it works. I moved the side rail out another 1/4" and made new lower idlers.



Jim

[Rvjimd]

I am reworking the frame rails for my crawler, but, it has a twist in it. Here is a short video that should explain what I mean.

http://youtu.be/0Eqewf_Ekmc

Part of the reason I wanted to rebuild these parts was the same twist in the old parts.

I tried to carefully drill the two sides while clamped together in the mill vise.

I tried to carefully turn the spacers in the lathe. The order was...

Chuck the stock in the 3 jaw, center drill, drill center clearance hole to size.
Turn outside diameter down just enough T to make it round and concentric to the center hole.
Part off. I faced one of them to match the length of the first.

I DIDNT machine the inside mating surfaces of the bar stock.

If I loosen the clamping screws a bit and tweak it as I tighten it is better but I want to try and figure
out what I might be doing wrong.

Jim

[ptsg]

Try to check if the bar stock is straight without the spacers and then face both sides of the spacers. I think it is something to do with the face of the spacers.