Great Dane excavating co.

[Cooper]

Thanks for the info earl. These cylinders are what I would call inverted, the smaller stage is on bottom and larger casing cylinder is the top. It's how the cylinders are mounted on cat haul trucks. That's why I had the oil entering from smaller stage as it will be the bottom. I guess this way dirt and debris are kept to a minimum on the rods.

[bigford]

there are a few rock tubs with the piston upside down

[Cooper]

http://youtu.be/IZPJOa2tmrc

Think this guy got fired?

[bigford]

super mario testing out the repair job

[RCP57]

Wasn't there some sort of training video where they were driving crazy as well? That one just looks like someone got laid off and said "oh yeah"?

[Supermario]

Yup. That would be your typical traction control test. Much more fun when doing on purpose compared to when the truck decides when it wants to do it.

[Cooper]

I'm worse than a girl in a dress shop!! Can't figure out what to build yet. 797 is too big, Brian got the 793 down and I'm now thinking 795b. It's a simpler design to build, more square front end. Tires, problem. 777 are 7.35". 785b are 8.35" and 797 are 12.9" scale. (Just a quick internet look up and I may be wrong. 1:14 scale). I found some hand truck tires 8" that are not correct but I'll just say I got retreads!!! Now the height of bed for loading on the 797 is like 19". The 785b is 14". That would be ok for me to load with the cat I got. I think, a test apparatus I set up. The black line is 14".

And that is with stick level

That is with boom and stick completely extended. So I think at 14" I'll be ok loading on even ground. Want to make as big of one as I can and still be able to load it.

[bigford]

how about a international pay hauler 350
50 ton machine and its different
http://www.silverstatespecialties.co...ler350C_01.jpg

[Cooper]

That would be nice!! Never knew they made that.

Just got off the phone with Brian and I don't know why I didn't think of it before but the master of 3d printing gave me the idea of printing a mould for whatever size tires I want. So I think I may try that. Another thing to "learn",,,, casting stuff. Just another reinforcing for our hobby, if you can't find it make it!!! Now all I have to do is move computer out to garage, start a argument with wife, get banished to garage and in a couple months possibly have a new baby addition to the construction company

[Exclusive RC]

Originally Posted by Cooper

That would be nice!! Never knew they made that.

Just got off the phone with Brian and I don't know why I didn't think of it before but the master of 3d printing gave me the idea of printing a mould for whatever size tires I want. So I think I may try that. Another thing to "learn",,,, casting stuff. Just another reinforcing for our hobby, if you can't find it make it!!! Now all I have to do is move computer out to garage, start a argument with wife, get banished to garage and in a couple months possibly have a new baby addition to the construction company

Thanks for the compliment brother im still learning myself, im just glad I was able to help you out and your tires are coming out AWESOME so far, cant wait to see the first run, those solid tires will hold up excellently! Now stop reading and start building! btw im sending you the bill for my "scratch"

[Cooper]

Ok I had a little time , about an hour to make this. If I knew what I was doing it would have been about 10 min!!! Not sure about how to make a negative mould. It may be better for me to make a scale tire, trim sand the plastic tire and then make the mould from that. It's just a start to see if I can do it. The treds will be more accurate on final but it's a start.

[9W Monighan]

What software is this?

[ihbuilder]

Make your master in the printer . Clean it up smooth it if necessary . Then make a mold and cast them like Tom did . I made the negative of the tire for machining the mold , but I forget what I did . I have 2004 autocad

[Cooper]

Originally Posted by ihbuilder

Make your master in the printer . Clean it up smooth it if necessary . Then make a mold and cast them like Tom did . I made the negative of the tire for machining the mold , but I forget what I did . I have 2004 autocad

That's what I think I'm going to do, make a master that I will be able to clean up the lines from printer. Then make a negative. Still researching what silicone to use. Rtv with pigment for final. Not sure what hardness, looks like around 60? Still not too knowledgable on that part. Like I said another thing to learn how to do!! So far in this hobby I'm a machinist, designer, frabricator, metalergist , ect,,,, and still don't know any of that stuff!! Would make a heck of a resume, until I got hired and didn't know squat!!! what hardness are those tires on your loader? A little soft if I remember but they are holding up great. (Kind of felt like some surgical implants . ) lol.
Once I figure out what I'm doing I'll get more precise with tread pattern. I'm sure a few "oops" will be along the way. But if they turn out I might be able to make a few for others? Do you know what products were used in the making of the actual tire? Rtv silicone? Pigment?

[ihbuilder]

look for modelman's (Tom) 777 thread , he goes over the whole tire making . Or he'll see this and help you out .

I know my loader tires are made from latex rubber . you'll see it again on sunday . I got er checked out and greased for werk

[Cooper]

Originally Posted by 9W Monighan

What software is this?

The free stuff, autodesk123 design. I'm not too knowledgable with this stuff but from what I've found it works to an extent. From what I researched most are making a extrusion for treads on a different layer but with this I can't do that so I used the circular pattern and just increased the number till treds looked full.

[modelman]

Cooper-If I were doing this I would simplify the tread pattern. In this picture the mold would have some very thin sections and if prepped correctly and waxed properly it might work but if it sticks any to the small sections the mold will tear and be ruined. Here is a place that will tell you everything about the different rubbers, waxes, etc.-
http://www.smooth-on.com/Silicone-Ru...tml?catdepth=1
Good Luck

[Cooper]

Originally Posted by modelman

Cooper-If I were doing this I would simplify the tread pattern. In this picture the mold would have some very thin sections and if prepped correctly and waxed properly it might work but if it sticks any to the small sections the mold will tear and be ruined. Here is a place that will tell you everything about the different rubbers, waxes, etc.-
http://www.smooth-on.com/Silicone-Ru...tml?catdepth=1
Good Luck

Thanks!! The pic was just an idea, the final tree pattern will be more like the 1:1 machine tires. Maybe some modifications to make release a bit more easier too. I was just happy that I figured out how to use the software !!!!

[Old Guy]

Cooper
Back to the 3stage cylinders, we also made a double acting 5 stage cylinder, I had 3 oil baths but got it working in the end. In this cylinder we but oil in on the small end, this was done by inserting a tube into the end you but the oil in, the tube went down to the bottom end of the small stage which had a solid piston with a hole the od size of the tube and a o-ring in the hole. This tube allowed the oil to enter the bottom of the cylinder always had the large stage move out first followed by 2cd then small stage. Now if some of you out there want a double acting 2 to ? cylinder I can supply the information, there is a trick to it, but it sure makes the dump box come down faster.

Earl

[RCP57]

Originally Posted by Old Guy

Cooper
Back to the 3stage cylinders, we also made a double acting 5 stage cylinder, I had 3 oil baths but got it working in the end. In this cylinder we but oil in on the small end, this was done by inserting a tube into the end you but the oil in, the tube went down to the bottom end of the small stage which had a solid piston with a hole the od size of the tube and a o-ring in the hole. This tube allowed the oil to enter the bottom of the cylinder always had the large stage move out first followed by 2cd then small stage. Now if some of you out there want a double acting 2 to ? cylinder I can supply the information, there is a trick to it, but it sure makes the dump box come down faster.

Earl

I'm intrigued Earl. Our Euclid has a 3 stage cylinder and it powers down because the box tips past center. I would like to know how it works.