D9R and 463 pull scraper

[dirtpusher9]

Originally Posted by modelman

Well joe-you gonna show us how you made the cylinder or is that "top secret".

Don't tell anyone Tom.lol

Here is the cylinder all torn down. The bore is 1/2'' and stroke is 7'', with a 5/16'' ram. The material is all from McMaster-carr.




Sorry about the pics being a little fuzzy.

[td9clyde]

yea we need a step by step and where to find the parts lol i was going to bore mine out and have them nichol plated and the stem chromed and just use O rings in it

[pugs]

Great looking work

[9W Monighan]

Yes, Very nice machine work Joe. What size threads are on the packing flange?

[td9clyde]

why can't a guy use regular metal like cold / hot rolled steel for what we are doing? and hone them real fine inside?? would it work? i was thinking i would have the inside and stem nickel plated but it would be nice not to have to do all that when boring and honeing would work i mean how much hydralic preshure do they push ?? in psi i know 10 bar or so but i donno what that actually is lol and i know it has to be smooth right? any detailed help would be great that is one nice pan and cylinder you have built very cool

[dirtpusher9]

10 bar is 174 psi. The steel will work if seemless and honed. I useed the brass because it machines better and and the price is'nt much different. I haven't even honed this brass yet. Most tubing I've seen don't take much to clean up. I used regular o-rings on mine and is doing fine so far but I'm ready to put it to work.

Steve, I used 1-72 bolts on the gland packing.

[modelman]

Joe-that is some nice and precision work! Will the standard o-rings handle the hyd. fluids?

[dirtpusher9]

Originally Posted by modelman

Joe-that is some nice and precision work! Will the standard o-rings handle the hyd. fluids?

Standard in size I guess is what I meant to say, they are Buna, made for hydraulic applications.

Henry, you would save a lot of time just getting the tubing insted of boring them. I would use 260/330 brass tubing and just a polished steel precision ground rod. I think I went with the 260 brass on my cylinder (been laying there a couple years, can't remember).

[ihbuilder]

Originally Posted by dirtpusher9

Standard in size I guess is what I meant to say, they are Buna, made for hydraulic applications.

Henry, you would save a lot of time just getting the tubing insted of boring them. I would use 260/330 brass tubing and just a polished steel precision ground rod. I think I went with the 260 brass on my cylinder (been laying there a couple years, can't remember).

Joe's right Clyde , trust me I've been there and lost some hair . I got some seemless ss tube and rod . I was going to tread both ends of the tube and make brass ends but I like joe's glad end set up

IHSteve

[tracksntreadslou]

Another option is to check the local auto wreckers for hatchback cyclinders...Rod diamater is fairly close to scale size and if your careful you may be able to salvage seals ..might be worth a try

[JAMMER]

Henry don't get the inside of the cylinder to smooth you have to have some roughness so the oil will hold on, a polished surface is not good I am using brake cylinder hones on my cylinders and some I got from a place in Florida that they use on automatic transmissions to clean up bores. Ed

[td9clyde]

well i was going to use round stalk lol as like in my pics that i turned out no seem i don't think lol and i think i could use a set of fine brake hones and on the stem what could be used zink plated ? i really don't know i know how it all works just don't have a clue what to use for materials ............sorry about hyjackin your thread

[pugs]

I would use brass or plain steel tubing for the cylinders and just hone out smooth (oil will coat inside and paint outside for rust proofing) For the Rod I would look at precision ground stainless, should be plenty smooth enough (most anyway, some ground stainless rods aren't the best and would need polishing) and the stainless would keep rust away. Much cheaper and easier than zinc and chrome plating for what it is.

[dirtpusher9]

Hey Ken, The o-rings are already sized, by that I mean that if you needed an o-ring for a 5/16'' shaft, it is made with the right tolerances that it needs to do the job. When I cut an o-ring grove I use the same tolerances.

The end cap and the large end are soldered, yes.

When do we get to see what you are building, Ken? It's been a long time.

[tc1cat]

Joe, I think what Ken wants to know is- if you use an O ring for a .5" diameter cylinder, what diameter groove do you put in the piston? Do you just measure the O ring thickness and make the groove that dimension smaller than the cylinder? Or is there some sort of chart or rule of thumb that you go by when making the piston grooves?

Lynn

[dirtpusher9]

I don't have a chart, just made the piston groove a thousands bigger than the o-ring. You don't want it to tight and stretched or it will change the OD of the o-ring. Here's a link to what I referenced too. http://www.allorings.com/gland_dynam...iprocating.htm

[td9clyde]

I think we need more video's of those awsome machines at work lol i can set and watch them all day as i have before

[dirtpusher9]

I'd like to oblige you, but I burned up my hydraulic motor yesterday doing a little test and tune on the radio, so waiting a motor. The motor kept getting oil in it since I bought it and it would burn it out as soon as I fired it up. I brought a whole new meaning to the phrase (fire it up), yesterday.

[td9clyde]

AWwWwW that is bad does that mean you have to get a new hydralic pump?

[dirtpusher9]

No, pump is fine, just the motor. $27 Thank you Lord.