ScaleART - Assembling a MAN TGX/XL 6x6 tractor & Trailer

[Rakthi]

Filing the ridge worked.





Before clipping the sides back onto the fuel tank, did a quick test set up to finalise the servo settings.



Sides clipped on again and re-installed in position.



Final test

Diff unlocked



Locked



Reattached the little clip I made to push the bowden cable forward to better clear the front propshaft.

[Rakthi]

Been a while with an update ...partly because I've been without computer for 10 days but mostly because lack of time.

So after a 2 week wait the new servo for the rear diffs arrived. I filed off one of the attachment points and installed it. Hooked up the cables and found out out the servo isn't strong enough to lock both diffs and I ended up frying the servo. Totally my (stupid) error that.



So ordered new servos again and decided that I would either only be able to lock one rear axle or I have to get one servo for each axle ...

Took a good look at the frame and figured that just possibly I could manage to tuck the extra servo reasonably unobtrusive in the frame.

In the servo kit from an 6x6 or 8x8 kipper I ordered extra, there was also this part:



Which (with a bit of filing and cutting) would just be able to fit in this area next to the transfer case.



To be able to attach it, some holes in the frame would need to be enlarged to fit M2 screws. This turned out to be more complicated than it sounds because I couldn't remove that one screw of the four that hold on the exhaust ...



Thanks to Dremel, flexible attachments, strong language and a repaint of the fuel tank ...



The primer in the above pic looks bad because it started raining just after I painted it and in the rush to get it inside I dropped the piece.



So after sanding, a new coat of primer and the final coats of red, I installed it.
Mounted one of the non-operational servos to see how it would look. (This servo would lock the 2nd rear axle)





Will need to make a red cover for the servo, but that should be something that isn't too difficult (we hope)



Also might have to do something about the run of the bowden cable of the first rear axle as they cross one another



So now we have to wait for the replacement servos to arrive. After a lot of searching, I also succeeded in locating a couple of the Robbe FS 70 MG servos that ScaleART used to supply. Will see if those are less temperamental.

I could go ahead and start the electronics compartment, but I rather wait until I have the servos so I can get the wires to run cleanly to the front. Something that will become less easy with the electronics compartment installed.

So we wait again ...

[Hofabooz]

Hi

Great build and thanks for documenting it in such detail.
Shame about the server problems but these things are set to try us as they say.

Looking for forwards to your next update.

Regards

Mark

[Rakthi]

Hi Hofabooz, those servos wouldn't be such a big problem if I could just pop out to the nearest shop and get some extras ... now there is this long wait between ordering and receiving them, causing the loss of my momentum. On top of that I then start other non-rc related projects making it even harder to get back on track.

Well the good news is the servos arrived, both the Hitec and the Robbe ones I found after checking what seems 100 on-line shops ... There are still some out there, gathering dust on shelves.

Not much difference in size between the Hitec and the Robbe, but that little bit sure helps.
Tried the Robbe servo in the longer fuel tank, and it fitted without the need for filing ... perfect fit. Too bad they went out of business. Another nice thing about their servos was the little plastic clips you could use to fix the servo in place instead of the rubber ones (also included)



Here some pictures for comparison





Here installed in the carrier. A perfect fit. (Took me the best part of an hour to locate the little bar to hold it in the front).



That's it for this short update. Now setting up these 2 servos and figuring out to put them on a mixer. Running the electrics to the front, shortening/lengthening wires etc. (all jobs I don't really like). Just have to get my head set for it.

[Rakthi]

Did the 2 servos today. Decided to go for the Robbe for the first rear axle and a Hitec for the 2nd rear axle. Will keep the extra Robbe ones I got for a next project that would need servos in tight spaces.

To install these, you need to set the servo to the locked diff position, and then pull the cable up (helps if you push the lever at the back up).

So servo horn in the lock position and cable inserted



Pulled cable till diff is locked (picture got messed up a bit by the flash)



Tension cable and tighten the worm screw holding it in place.



I ran the wire through the hole I had drilled in the frame (I also made sure the hole was in the 2nd servo holder I altered). Added a bit of black heat shrink on the outside of the frame



and red heat shrink on the inside



Next up the Hitec servo - picture in diff locked position (note the difference in servo horns! The Robbe one is way bulkier than the Hitec)



And other side (will need to come back out to touch up paint on some screws but at least I know it works/fits)



For now I put the 2nd servo on channel 4 that was supposed to operate the rear coupling I didn't install.

After touching up the red paint inside of the frame, pull 2nd servo cable to the front and fabricate a cover.

Had a look at the rear lights and how to run the wires there ... My first plan was to run the wires attached with a bit of heat shrink to the fender support, but I had forgotten to do this when I installed the fender. So fender would have to come off again. Still would look a tad "messy" ...



Since I would have to partly disassemble the rear fenders, another alternative (and more work) would be to drill hole in the fender where the rear light attaches, run the wire on the inside to the centre support and from there through another hole (widening one of the existing ones from 2 mm to ±3 mm) inside the frame.



Well, the wife had told me to get my money's worth out of this model and take my time finishing it ...

[Rakthi]

Redoing the rear lights was not as big a job as I thought. Took longer to take fenders off. Came down to a simple bit of grinding and drilling two holes.

So here a trial fit after doing one fender. (the paint did suffer from unbolting all the bits, so after taking these pics I stripped the paint off and repainted - as you can see, sanding did not work well on diamond plate)

The light is at an angle because the screws are not tightened yet.



Can barely see where the wire runs through the fender.



Back side before cleaning up and filing of the sharp edges.



Will not have to drill a bigger hole in the frame. The wires fit through the existing 2mm holes.



Wire can run along the middle support of the fender and then go behind it



To come out on the side and disappear in the frame.



Now waiting for the new paint on the fenders to dry before reassembling the lot and running the rear light wires to the front.

[Rakthi]

Re-installed the right rear fender today. (Expected to do both, but more time consuming/fiddly than I thought)

First attach the centre support. Had to be very careful not to scratch the paint





Put the extra mud flaps I had to use by giving fender one on each side. This time I took care not to tighten the nuts too much to prevent warping the rubber.



After this, install the light and then loosely attach the clamps holding the fender to the front and rear support. Then carefully slide the fender in place. There is just enough space to tighten the screws without having to remove the wheels.



Didn't run the wire for the light as I planned. It just runs on the inside of the fender, goes through the centre support. Near the frame I made a little clamp of copper wire to hold the cable in place. Wire still needs to be attached to the fender and centre support with some hot glue or double sided tape. Haven't made up my mind yet. Once finished, a bit of red paint on the wire and it will be barely noticeable.





One done, the other one in a couple of days ...

[liftmys10]

So much detail! It's rare to see close up photos like this.

[Rimrock]

Admire your patience..There must be thousands of screws) Fine to see the up- close pictures)

[Rakthi]

@liftmys10 & Rimrock ... The detail on the parts is what makes it worth while to take the close up pictures. As for the amount of screws ... it's like an addiction really ... just trying to pace myself a bit. (Keep in mind that I've been at this one for close to 9 months already with all the interruptions and waiting time.)
I kind of bungled this assembly in comparison to the Arocs I did before, where I strictly followed the instructions.

=================================

Did the 2nd rear fender today.

This picture just to show that this time they provide plenty of wire to the rear lights compared to the ones I got with the Arocs.



Tried out something to hold the wire to the rear fender. A left over from Land Rover Defender ownership (needed to stop the leaks and rattles)





Fender ready to be attached



Clamps loosely attached to allow them to slide over the supports



All went smooth until one of the screw that the centre support screws onto unscrewed itself when I tried to fasten the nut (too much paint stuck in the threads) ... What happens if you forget to use Loctite. Was a bit of a problem to sort out but thanks to a flexible driver got it back into shape.



Forgot to shorten the bolts for the 2nd mudflap ... so wheel had to come off.



Put some heat shrink on the wire from the rear light and routed it.



Not too pleased with the way the wires run. Will have to rethink this one.



Also have to find a good way to attach the Infra Red led for communication with the trailer. Was thinking of putting in one of those openings in the rear cross member but have to figure out a way so it doesn't stick out so far.

[Rakthi]

Found a bit of time today, so a short update.

Been messing with the IR wire/led.

Stuffed wire in some red heat shrink and found a little rubber O-ring in the box of spare plumbing stuff. The O-ring is just the right size for the led.





I can glue the o-ring to the inside rear cross member and it will hold the IR LED securely. Haven't glued it in yet. First have to figure out where the receiver mounts on the trailer. Might have to move position closer to the fifth wheel

Got a temp solution for running the wire, but not too pleased as of yet. Would like to combine it with the rear lights and the fifth wheel servo, but haven't got red tubing of that size ... Maybe run one tube on each side would work better.



Will have to run the wire through the mid cross member and hope it fits and doesn't interfere with the bowden cables from the differential and transmission already there.

[Doggy]

You cant put enough photos in this thread! This is great to look at, and best place to get ideas for a build. Thank you!

[buff69]

Excellent first class

[Rakthi]

Hi folks, my wife had a "life altering" medical problem. Lucky for her (and me of course) things worked out. However there is no guarantee she will not go through the same again. Since we live on an island with limited medical provisions, we have decided to move back to Europe.

At the moment we are busy trying to untangle ourselves here and sort out our move back. Especially the move of our 3 felines is a major head ache, even when using a professional service.

Once in Europe and back on our feet this thread will be continued.

So if all goes well you can expect updates in February 2017 (fingers crossed the container makes it as scheduled)

Thanks all for your patience.

Stephan

[Bo Wallen]

Best wishes and good luck with everything. It's going to be alright.
Bo

[Cossett]

Hope it goes well with the wife and the trucks always come second to ones health....

Cheers Tracy

[Rakthi]

So the trucks left our home yesterday ... they are in the white boxes liberally plastered with fragile stickers and well padded inside with foam and bubble wrap.

Might be 6 - 8 weeks before I see them again and continue this build thread - will have to buy a table to work on first too.

We are following our boxes 20 days from now ... These international moves sure take a lot out of one.

Our 3 cats are still unaware of the long trip back to Belgium that is in store for them.

[TRUCKMAKER]

Good luck to you and your wife, and take good care of those kitties!

[Rakthi]

Thanks Truckmaker!

Our 3 felines will do the trip with a company that specialises in pet moving. They will have to go to Kuala Lumpur for 10 days to have some blood test done to get the necessary export / import papers to enter Europe. We will stay in a hotel near where they will be boarded so we can visit them every day.

Here a pic of them from a year ago .. our 2 Abyssinian brothers Billy and Percy and Rakthi, the Egyptian Mau

[Cossett]

Good luck with the move, missing your upades on your builds that are great reading...........

Cheer Tracy