Need ideas for suspension lift

[crazy4yachts]

I started building up my 2.2 beadlocks and tires . and I thought that the 1.9 beadlock wheels were a pain in the A#% man was I wrong these are 10 times harder for some strange reason ?. I'm trying all kinds of ways but still isn't working. Just think I only have to do this 14X, well no one ever accused me of being a Brain stergeon ? Having fun now




John

[crazy4yachts]

Well I finally have made my mind up with the front and rear lift .I'm using these wheels and tires but I made the new lift parts Today at work . It's quite a bit taller now. Heres some pictures of the final mockup.

[crazy4yachts]

Heres some more pictures of the lift I'm working on

[scalelover]

Is that aluminum stiff enough so that your not getting side movement in the axles or axle wrap? It looks like you still need to do the links to the supports right and this should help with some of the axle walk? Every time I see this thing it seems like its getting bigger and longer.lol

--Dan

[crazy4yachts]

Hi Dan


I'm using .120 T6 aluminum on the back supports and .100 T6 on the front brackets. I plan on making side braces for the front and I have some round aluminum stock I'll put between the rear back supports. But I have the basic lift finally done I just have to tweek it , but still having a ball building this Beast.


John

[crazy4yachts]

Here's some pictures of the progress on the rear suspension braces to raise the truck up to fit the new tires and wheels. I like these bigger wheels and tires better.





John

[Espeefan]

John, interesting set-up you have there. I'd like to offer some constructive criticism. I would really try to add some more bracing to your chassis. Especially to the long side plates you have bolted to the c-channel frame. Even something so simple as to run a piece of aluminum plate, or channel, at an angle, down from the main frame rails, to the extension plates you have the suspension bits bolted to would be a big help. You really need to tie those side plate extensions into the chassis rails better and sort of gusset them in, fore and aft, of the axles. Some cross members parallel with the axles, would also stiffen things up a bit, but I'd be mostly worried about the forces exerted on the plates, parallel to the chassis, when the wheels bind up and the torque will want to pull the plates forward or backward. The axles have a lot of leverage.

I think ideally I would build a whole new chassis, and cut it from aluminum sheet, making it a stiffer one piece ladder type chassis, but you could probably stiffen things up without doing that too.

[crazy4yachts]

Thanks for the advice I'm planning on laterial braces along with fore and Aft braces as well. This Beast I'm building is really getting heavy with all this stuff I'm adding to it. I'm thinking about two frame set up right now, I can get all the Aluminum channel I want , not sure yet just thinking about it.



John

[crazy4yachts]

I think I have found what the Beast is going to be as far as the Chassis goes. Here's my idea, tell me what you guys think ?

[crazy4yachts]

Here's some other version I like better.

[crazy4yachts]

Ok so I got my RC4WD 6x6 Beast and I'm thinking about buying those scale axles for this build, instead of using the Tamiya rears I have now . These are really scale looking axles and they are not plastic. Plus I can make them all 4-link suspension that would be killer looking compaired to what I have going on now.




John

[WhiteWolf McBride]

John:

Just read thru the build, and I gotta agree, thing is gonna have chassis torque issues, you may wanna consult with some of the crawler guys on this.

I also saw that last set of pics with only the 6x6 setup, and the center of gravity looks ~really~ high... especially compared to how narrow it looks. You going to suspend the batteries under the frame?

And loved the pic of that Armored HEMTT cab in the last " Maybe this ? " post. I'm thinking of one of those, and with the armor panels, detailing of the cab is minimized compared to a stock Oshkosh HEMTT (and have you looked at the prices of the MAN KAT cabs from Germany? OW.

Something else I'd put to MilSpec builders: wheel covers (NOT hubcaps, fool!)
Think like the ones on the APC in aliens, or the HEMTT's and such. I can think of a few ways to make them - all involve attaching them to a fancy axle-bolt/cap. Ponder this - a bigger 'nut-head' that has 3-6 micro-bolt holes around the head, and you bolt the circular cover to this. How complicated, and how much a pair? They could be used to 'hide' any rims out there...

WhiteWolf, not aiming to thread-jack,
- so post a link to a new thread if you can make 'em...

[crazy4yachts]

I know I'm really thinking about doing a double frame set-up. I had to go tall to accommodate the oversize tires I'm using. I'm going to go with CTIS hubs on the wheels to make it more Military looking . Suspending the batteries is a good idea to keep down the CG. Right now this thing weights about 35 to 40 Lbs and I'm not even close to being done. I would like to either scratch build my own cab or maybe have someone build it for me no sure yet.




John

[nutmag]

If these are the tires you want to use, and you want a military truck style, I would suggest making a bigger frame. The problem with staking two frames is they won't be wide enough. So bigger more to scale c-channel aluminum would be better. And instead of lifting the frame to fit the wheels, I would lower the frame to fit the wheels. Like the trucks in the picture, the wheels should be about level with the frame, that would be a good suspension height. Hope that helps a little. And where do you buy your axles from?
-Craig

[Lmackattack]

Do you have trouble keeping the inter axel driveshaft intact....looks like you will have way more articulation than intended...I know my trucks have more travel and some bumps will let the driveshaft pop out. I run the metal rc4wd drivelines and only have issue with the inter axel driveline popping out sometimes..