Question About Shapeways "Goose" Peterbilt Parts

[Tommy R]

Thank you! Got another question as I'm still learning all the differences between the various Pete models. I see there are two different hoods available.

One is a "long hood" that says it's for the Tamiya cab, but what model Pete is this modeled after?


Then they have the "389" hood, but it does not say anything about fitting the Tamiya cab.


What I don't know is the difference between these two other than some subtle design features. I suppose the fenders bolt up to either hood, but would either one work on the KH cab?

[Claus]

I see the 389 has a rib running down the center of the hood, Shapeways is not very clear on what fits and doesn't fit but Goose or Russ are very good about answering emails and PMs.

I used the "long Hood", Pete fenders, Pete cab and 60" sleeper from them on my truck. There is some grain in the plastic to deal with. Also, the Long Hood is no longer than a Tamiya hood but it moves the front axle forward and gives it that look. Cab, hood and sleeper are all bolted to Grand Hauler rails in stock bolt hole locations.

[scottyk]

I got a Mack cab and hood from them, was told the nylon material was not friendly to sanding and would just ball up on you. Use high build primer first then sand that down till its smooth. I know the parts I got would not fill well even using automotive paint, real auto clear coat MIGHT be thick enough to give it a smooth look but I dont know.

[Tommy R]

Thanks again! I've been through your build thread on that truck twice now. LOL So if I run the "long hood" I'd need to plan on a slightly longer wheelbase, it would seem. That might actually work for me, but not sure if it would then create clearance issues between the bumper and tires when turning. Didn't you run into that situation in your build?

[Tommy R]

Originally Posted by scottyk

I got a Mack cab and hood from them, was told the nylon material was not friendly to sanding and would just ball up on you. Use high build primer first then sand that down till its smooth. I know the parts I got would not fill well even using automotive paint, real auto clear coat MIGHT be thick enough to give it a smooth look but I dont know.

Thanks for the input! So what did you end up doing on yours and how did it come out? A rough finish is a concern of mine.

[scottyk]

Originally Posted by Tommy R

Thanks for the input! So what did you end up doing on yours and how did it come out? A rough finish is a concern of mine.

I dont have mine in paint yet, I plan on painting my dump bed the same color as the cab so I figured might as well wait till I have everything ready and paint it all at once.

but I have about 9 coats of primer total on mine right now and it is pretty darn smooth. I would sand after 2-3 coats of primer until you just start to see white nylon, then its time for primer again.

IMO you NEED to fill up the texture of that 3d printing or its just going to be too rough, I mean that texture is probably similar to sandpaper of less than 100 grit. If you going to use metallic paint than its very important to have it totally smooth with something like 600 grit so the metallic doesnt fall into the low spots.

[huber1918]

I am looking to get the hood and use it on my king hauler cab.. What is the best way to glue the hood to the cab? do I have to move the axle at all to use that hood?

[Claus]

Originally Posted by huber1918

I am looking to get the hood and use it on my king hauler cab.. What is the best way to glue the hood to the cab? do I have to move the axle at all to use that hood?

The front axle will defiantly need to be relocated.

[up9018]

Claus,

What did you figure out on the windshield?

Chris

[Claus]

Originally Posted by up9018

Claus,

What did you figure out on the windshield?

Chris

I sent my body parts to Exclusive RC for paint and body work including custom windows, firewall and brass mirrors. Will post photos when I get the parts back.