1/16 Bucyrus Erie 25B

[Rvjimd]

Jared,

One more question for you. Was there any specific reason for using brass and steel for the lower rollers? I am about to start making those parts and not sure what to use or why. In think I can see using steel for the shafts but I was going to use aluminum for the rollers as well as the drivers and big rollers. I think the aluminum is cheaper than brass but I'm not sure, I do know I have more aluminum stock on hand than I do brass.

If I get a but more done here I guess I could start a build thread of my own?

I sure would like to see you get back on yours!

Thanks

Jim

[Jared]

I used stainless rod that was somewhat polished to have a smooth shaft that wouldn't corrode in our humid winter climate and brass because I hadn't turned it much and wanted to play with it. I think next time I would use acetal (Delrin) for the rollers because it's self-lubricating and real easy to machine. Aluminum is certainly cheaper than brass and I think it would work just fine. It will wear out sooner since it's softer but unless you're planning on putting a serious amount of hours on it there shouldn't be much trouble. The main thing is to use a shaft material that is harder than the bearing material so you don't wear out the shaft since generally speaking bearings (or bushings) are cheaper and easier to replace. Using the same material for both isn't a good idea. Looking forward to seeing yours and don't be afraid to start a thread.

[Rvjimd]

Jared,

Thanks for all the answers! And, thanks to Steve as well for the pictues of the BE, I have been using the drawings in my build. I have a pretty good start and made some design decisions yesterday so I think I am ready to start producing track pads.

Jim

[Rvjimd]

Jared,

When you made the axels for the rollers did how did you insure the second end was in the same plane as the first when you milled the second end? Same question I guess when you drilled them?

Thanks,

Jim

[Jared]

Have a look on the second page at post #27. You can see the fixture I made to hold them so I could mill and drill both sides. I milled the flats on all the parts first and then drilled the holes so I wouldn't have to be swapping endmills and drill bits twice every part. This way all you have to do is remember your settings on your dials to come back to for repeatability. When you mill the flats lock the Z-axis and don't move it so each shaft is at the same height when you bolt them to the side frame.

[Rvjimd]

Jared,

Thanks! I am learning how important it can be to recognize how the order you do things impacts the production of parts.

Jim