How To Custom Drive Shaft

[Tamiya Cowboy]

Ok guys I normally use RC4WD Punisher Driver shafts but times are tuff and money is hard so I came up with a one better on the Traxxas Stampede drive shafts.

Ok still using a bag of 2 male and 2 female Stampede drive shafts here is how you build a better and very strong drive shaft.

1. Ok you need to figuar out you total length from output to input then subtract the length of the knuckle to the yoke on both ends + a extra 1/8 to a 1/4 depending how much travle you thin you will need in your shaft from the center drive shaft tube.

2. Ok for the alum tube you get the 1/2inch K&S tubing at the hobby shop and cut it to your lenght you just figuared out above in the first step and here is what you should have sitting on the bench in front of you. The K&S tubing is the perfect size the larger "Female" shaft fit very tight in the tubing with no slop it all.



3. Ok take the Female larger shaft on the left in the pick above and force it into the Alum tubing and you should have something that looks like this.



4. Next take the Female larger shaft on the right in the pick above and cut off the yoke like this..



Ok Take the shaft you cut the yoke off of and slide it into the tubing and then slide it in 1/4 in past flush with the tubing so you will be able to run a 1.5 screw threw the shaft that is inside the tubing.



And here is what you have in front of you..



Now notice the 1.5 screw at the left end 1/4 down the tube and on the left end the 1.5 screw about 2 1/4 down the tube these lock in the shafts that are slid inside the tube. I drilled and taped mine and used a hard stainless screw that went all the way threw then I took my dremel and ground off the extra and also gound the head down as close as I could with out removing it.



And there you go I hope this helps if you have any questions please ask..

[Vanisle]

Great idea, easy and inexpensive. I'm always amazed at the many ways people come up with to make things. Thanks for sharing it.

[smart racer]

nice tip...thanks

[mog]

nice very explained thanks for the info

[MACK Daddy]

Wow, Simple and clean


Nice Job Paul


Alfy

[JAMMER]

Paul are those ends you are using plastics? If they are plastic they won't take any power or weight I have two T Maxx and have steel drive lines in them because the plastic ones won't take the power they come apart. Ed

[Tamiya Cowboy]

Originally Posted by JAMMER

Paul are those ends you are using plastics? If they are plastic they won't take any power or weight I have two T Maxx and have steel drive lines in them because the plastic ones won't take the power they come apart. Ed

Ed I have ran the plastic ones and they will hold up just fine if you use the pin instead of the set screw. In that pick them are the black Axail metal ends I run the metal when I build them..

Guys this is super easy to do no need to cobble 2 or 3 stock drive shafts together or one big long one here is another pick of a twin shaft set up I did this weekend.




Thanks for all the great comments guys also..

[tc1cat]

Great tip! You can also use metric tubing with a stock Tamiya drive shaft to make a longer driveshaft. I did this for my Bud. truck. Works very nice.

Lynn

[smart racer]

do you have a part # on the K+S Tube, as I ordered tube that was to big and to small...I may end up using a Esky Belt tail boom, thanks - Steve

[Tamiya Cowboy]

Originally Posted by smart racer

do you have a part # on the K+S Tube, as I ordered tube that was to big and to small...I may end up using a Esky Belt tail boom, thanks - Steve

The tub is a little small.. I have had some the right size and some too small and they were the same part number I just turned the shaft down with my drill and a piece of sand paper and then forced it in and it worked great..

[smart racer]

good call on the drill/sand paper...I started to sand by hand...still I may use the alu. tail boom as the fit will be good and tight and I like the black colour...thanks - Steve

[spudd]

great idea thanks for the tip

[BRICKNICK]

Wow that leaves you with a very realistic finished product.

[Dreamweaver]

Originally Posted by smart racer

do you have a part # on the K+S Tube, as I ordered tube that was to big and to small...I may end up using a Esky Belt tail boom, thanks - Steve

Steve the 1/2" is K+S9413

Tower Hobbies #LXRW80 However it comes in a pack of three and they are 36" long. If you have a LHS they most likely buy from tower and might order it for you and only charge and give ya one.

[jtroyer06]

So i bought some of these drive shafts to modify and i was looking at them and the ends have to flat spots in the i.d of the connector, and my Tamiya input shaft to the axle and the output in the transmission both have just one flat spot for the set screw to seat. So they wont fit together with out being machine to match.. So is that was is required to make these work or did i get sold the wrong shafts from eBay or am i missing something obvious ? Please HELP!

Thanks Jordan

[CAT29]

very clever nice one

[phillyknight]

thanks for the tip! Works well!

[Tamiya Cowboy]

Originally Posted by jtroyer06

So i bought some of these drive shafts to modify and i was looking at them and the ends have to flat spots in the i.d of the connector, and my Tamiya input shaft to the axle and the output in the transmission both have just one flat spot for the set screw to seat. So they wont fit together with out being machine to match.. So is that was is required to make these work or did i get sold the wrong shafts from eBay or am i missing something obvious ? Please HELP!

Thanks Jordan

Sorry I did not see your question.. You must of got the wrong ones or some that were made wrong cause any I have ever bought are a perfect fit so to answer your question no there is not machine work you need to do..

[civic83]

I've done this using styrene tube ( its what I had onhand ) works good, won't take as much torque of corse but works none the less

[Mjr woodie460]

Great how to but I have one question. How do I go about the carrier bearing.