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  #1301  
Old 11-10-2015, 12:34 PM
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Default Re: LilGiantsConstrCO

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tSsibsm0tTc Low speed high torque!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YBqwhedqLXE
Cheers!
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  #1302  
Old 11-10-2015, 03:36 PM
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Default Re: LilGiantsConstrCO

The Blackwell axle is a worm drive, 3.75 ratio, no differential.

Definitely needs more torque, probably have to have a good size kv outrunner & big planetary gearhead... I haven't measured the motor rpm currently, double the speed would certainly help. At 4s (15-16v), at the start of vid motor running slower was about 12-13v... speeding it up later in vid to 14-15v makes the motor hot & the Sabertooth timeout inside a minute!

Biggest problem is this soil type is really dense brown clay & it's much too moist making it very sticky... with more teeth, I figured it would just ball up with mud... you see in the pics how it's building up on the tracks? the hoe don't move around much.

With the ripper tooth, one 5amp batt in 40 minutes will rip loose a volume approx. 5ga pail+, it's pretty sweet digging that way... but vertical ripping is kinda rough on the model when it looses contact & causes sudden drops on the boom.

Thanx for vid links Neil, if only it was possible to scale down the same power requirements to operate such tools without a monstrosity behind it! Eliminating the long stick on the JD850 would certainly take out a lot of the wobble.

An idea that came to me last night is to try cutting up a wire brush... how are those bristles held in the wood?

Thanx for the input guys... maybe deeper in the hole the soil will be dryer & will crumble easier.

Here's a vid ripping & digging last night... some of the rocks the size of a hardball or bigger, wouldn't be good for the grinder.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-6FoACSLPdo
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  #1303  
Old 11-10-2015, 03:57 PM
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Default Re: LilGiantsConstrCO

I like your idea on the cutter joe, but my guess is that it will take a dedicated machine for this. Lots of weight, Lots of power and very precise control of the cutter head. I'm sure you could build this but in the time it would take you can get a lot of digging done. Your old system seems to work good. It may seem slow but that is a lot of dirt to move! I enjoy watching.
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  #1304  
Old 11-10-2015, 05:27 PM
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Default Re: LilGiantsConstrCO

Joe, look at the knotted wire wheels, the ones that look like cable. https://www.google.com/search?q=knot...AtAG6B4IClM%3A
You could make your own with cable.
Cheers.
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  #1305  
Old 11-13-2015, 12:13 AM
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Default Re: LilGiantsConstrCO

Definitely Tom, but a quite bit more involved project than I want to take on & rocks will always be a problem.

I cut up a wooden handled wire brush, the flexible wire bent in a U & stapled into the wood... just shoved the U profile in the hole of the drum, then a 3mm steel pin & locked in place with the set screw. Switched the drums left right so it drags the wire bristles... works muuuuch better! But the motor is still lacking in power... it'd be good if I could get a stronger brushed motor (more poles would that be?) that would fit this spur gearhead so I wouldn't have to completely rebuild the mount. I found on RC4WD the inner shafts, so shortening the drums is possible... try half the width & double up the holes/bristles for a smoother continuous contact.







Here's a vid, grinder cutting away at the sand layer below the cement...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3iVrRdD9nMc
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  #1306  
Old 11-15-2015, 09:26 PM
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Default Re: LilGiantsConstrCO

Joe, How does the brush wheel work? Do you have any plans to resurrect the rc4wd excavator?
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  #1307  
Old 11-16-2015, 11:49 PM
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Default Re: LilGiantsConstrCO

It works ok, but still short on power... I found on ebay a worm drive gearbox motor similar to Andy's grinder, gonna go that route... I'll try these wire bristle drums on it, as well as sprockets like Andy did, hopefully it'll do the job like I want it to.

Digging through the wkend I thought the tunnel was starting to get dry & hard, but it was just my ripper was wearing out & getting dull... welded on a new ardox spike & it's ripping like butter again. The JD850 is just about completely underground... about 4ft, a third the way already!

I sold the RC4WD hoe a few yrs ago.
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  #1308  
Old 11-17-2015, 12:11 AM
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Default Re: LilGiantsConstrCO

hey Joe are you putting in supports in the tunnel, to stop cave ins.

I think if you had a high speed motor on the wire brush drums it work really well, but not dig as such, more of a clean smaller dirt, almost dust.
also have you thought of putting an auger bit on it, or maybe a large hole saw.

cheers andy
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  #1309  
Old 11-17-2015, 10:21 AM
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Default Re: LilGiantsConstrCO

Hey Joe, have you considered using an inline fuel filter, for a hydraulic tank breather?
Cheers!
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  #1310  
Old 11-18-2015, 04:11 AM
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Default Re: LilGiantsConstrCO

Andy, if you look at post #1280, I explained much of my preplanning for the tunnel. Although I see one thing I forgot to mention... the building & cement pad sits atop cement pilings 10 inch diameter - 10ft deep in the ground, so that will certainly help to anchor the dirt walls too. But I will add PWS sheet to the walls for added support, just like I did with the basement.

And the grinder, yes it's more for finishing vs continuous digging, get the sidewalls smooth & straight. And to clean the dirt off the cement ceiling.

Neil, fuel filters generally have a one way check valve in the them, correct? ...wouldn't be very effective for equilibrium.


It's been a long time since I had to split the JD850...





I had this "bright idea" yrs ago to install studs in two of the holes to make re-attaching house to u/c much easier, down in the basement is rather dark & hard to see, but using a locknut it eventually pulled the threads out of the nut. And then ofourse I couldn't then get the locknut to unscrew either.

So that was todays task... cleaned grime off with an electrical cleaner & then dripped crazy glue on the lock nuts to hopefully screw the studs out... but the studs were held in with blue locktite... one locknut actually screwed off the stud & the other one the stud twisted off flush... YAY more work to do.

Cut a slot with a die grinder - cutoff wheel, heat the snott out of it with a small torch... couldn't get it to budge, broke a few small flat tip screwdriver bits. Then decided to drill it out - only to break the 2,5 bit off 5mm inside the hole! ..eventually got the broken bit out, used a smaller 2mm bit to finish the pilot hole, then the correct size bit & finally tapped it again... all in all just 4hrs but it's fixed Amazing how those four little 3mm bolts can take so much torque!!!



Re-adjust the swing motor pinion for a tighter mesh to crown gear, give it an oil change, back to work for another winter.
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  #1311  
Old 11-18-2015, 04:42 AM
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Default Re: LilGiantsConstrCO

wow your guts look just like the kats!! now i don't feel so bad
after seeing coopers 4200 all plumbed and routed neatly..LOL
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  #1312  
Old 11-18-2015, 10:33 AM
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Default Re: LilGiantsConstrCO

Joe, the inline ones that are clear and small don't have check valves, Cat did that one my skid steer. Hydraulic fumes in an enclosed cab made me sick. Fixed that too!
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  #1313  
Old 11-18-2015, 11:36 AM
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Default Re: LilGiantsConstrCO

Hi Joe you swing ring looks a little chewed up. Ed
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  #1314  
Old 11-20-2015, 07:57 PM
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Default Re: LilGiantsConstrCO

Quote:
Originally Posted by bigford View Post
wow your guts look just like the kats!! now i don't feel so bad
after seeing coopers 4200 all plumbed and routed neatly..LOL
Better clean your glasses... bigger components, 400ml oil tank & 6 esc's don't leave much room for "routed neatly"... besides that, mine works & yours rides around on a trailer.



Quote:
Originally Posted by JAMMER View Post
Hi Joe you swing ring looks a little chewed up. Ed
It's a thick crown gear, the bottom of motor pinion is flush with bottom of crown gear, it's the set screws of motor pinion that mark up top of crown gear a wee bit, can't push it up any further & don't want to take any 'meat' off the pinion.


Still finding some big rocks along the way...



Put the tailgate on the pup, 5 scoops of the bucket to heap it up... surprising how much drag it is for the B50 climbing out of the hole, the tires are flexing a lot & a bit of slippage.



Measured the deepest point, it's 63 inches... could be out of a job by Spring!



Outside view, where the tape measure sits is end of tunnel, approx. half way... the house cement foundation is about 20 inches thick.

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  #1315  
Old 11-20-2015, 09:08 PM
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Default Re: LilGiantsConstrCO

Wow, you might need to layoff some workers!! Or are you looking to the bonus for early completion!!! Tunnel diggin going well!! Running into a few big goonies doesn't seem too bad. The underground miner,, andys sprockets look good for hard stuff, if you do go that way, what about multiple sprockets (2?) offset? Like a wood dado cutter. I've used some on furniture projects to cut wide slots. Just another idea & my $.02
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  #1316  
Old 11-21-2015, 01:07 PM
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Default Re: LilGiantsConstrCO

so joe just some advice when you get to the foundation you want to protect yourself from the dust from concrete it is VERY VERY bad for you can cuase cancer from silica use a heppa mask with purple filters
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  #1317  
Old 11-21-2015, 02:13 PM
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Default Re: LilGiantsConstrCO

Hey Joe
You are going to town with the latest project ! I am not up to speed, are you going to be able to walk between your basement and garage through the tunnel ?
Have you ever tried Blasting in that material ! ! Maybe a Rock Drill and fire crackers ? hahahh
greg
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  #1318  
Old 11-21-2015, 08:32 PM
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Default Re: LilGiantsConstrCO

wood dado cutter, so I googled that (while thinking it's likely another idiom similar to thingamajig )... OH! there really is such a thing Andy's idea with an angle cut on the shaft collar would work the same way

Jack, the house cement foundation sits atop the ground, I'm digging under it - not through it.

Yes Greg, a walkway to connect my house to my shop to avoid the outside elements while travelling between the two buildings.
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  #1319  
Old 11-26-2015, 07:10 PM
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Default Re: LilGiantsConstrCO

So today was changing the Jung pump in JD450 from a 0,45ml/rev (4003) to a 0,30 (4002). The only difference between the two pumps is the width of each gear, both gears same diameter. 0,45 has a gear width of 7.36mm & the 0,30 is 4.9mm. And luckily the gear slides off the shaft so I don't have to modify shaft length.

But the way the narrower gear fits shorter shaft, then fits into its respective pump body, the length sticking out is 3mm too short for the gear reduction! Fortunately I have another 0,30 pump with a short shaft & that entire pump assembly will fit properly into the JD450 gear reduction and the other 0,30 pump will still work on the direct drive.

The wide gear that's now on the long shaft, I intend to try out that pump on the JD850, as its currently using a 0,30ml/rev (4002) pump. A 30% increase of flow for the JD850 with its three 18mm (boom & bucket) & 22mm (stick) pistons vs all four 14mm pistons in the JD450.







Plus my gear reduction in the JD450 was getting noisy, kinda looks like the previous grease melted away. Got some hi-temp wheel bearing grease today, hope it does the trick.

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  #1320  
Old 11-26-2015, 10:06 PM
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Default Re: LilGiantsConstrCO

How often do ya think the gearboxes of the premacons need regreasing ? Or I guess I should ask how many hours ya think ya had on that gearbox? I guess it's better to ask hours vs once a year as everyone uses things differing amounts. And I'm pretty sure you are on the more use side. .
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