MY NEW GRAND HAULER/KENWORTH BUILD

[lenny]

Can the house come down at all? Bottom of cab and bottom of house should line straight across, and crown tight to cab roof. The time is now !!

[glorydays24]

Originally Posted by lenny

Can the house come down at all? Bottom of cab and bottom of house should line straight across, and crown tight to cab roof. The time is now !!

Yeah, I know the cab and sleeper bottoms should be level with each other. The only way to fix the problem (and easiest) would be to add a strip of styryne to the bottom of the sleeper. But I am planning on having led's running along the bottom of both. Hopefully when I have everything put on, I can hide the mismatch. As far as the roof, I did see a picture of an actual truck with the roof having a bigger gap, so I think I will leave it the way it is.

Big John

[HAZMAN]

Originally Posted by glorydays24

Yeah, I know the cab and sleeper bottoms should be level with each other. The only way to fix the problem (and easiest) would be to add a strip of styryne to the bottom of the sleeper. But I am planning on having led's running along the bottom of both. Hopefully when I have everything put on, I can hide the mismatch. As far as the roof, I did see a picture of an actual truck with the roof having a bigger gap, so I think I will leave it the way it is.

Big John

I had the same issue with my Aeordyne build and I decided to go the 85 w900 look by raising the roof of the cab by inserting a wedge creating a 2mm gap between the cab and lip of the roof. I also lengthened the cab 4mm behind the doors. Looks like your going for the 76 look then you could also separate the cab from the sleeper and raise the cab up 3mm. If do this then you'll need to to add washers under the cab mount to achieve the new height. I did the cab separation and washer with my build as I wanted it to sit a mm or 2 higher than my other King Hauler. As for the bottoms matching up , cut and add 2 or 3mm strips of styrene to lineup the cab and sleeper.

[glorydays24]

Originally Posted by HAZMAN

I had the same issue with my Aeordyne build and I decided to go the 85 w900 look by raising the roof of the cab by inserting a wedge creating a 2mm gap between the cab and lip of the roof. I also lengthened the cab 4mm behind the doors. Looks like your going for the 76 look then you could also separate the cab from the sleeper and raise the cab up 3mm. If do this then you'll need to to add washers under the cab mount to achieve the new height. I did the cab separation and washer with my build as I wanted it to sit a mm or 2 higher than my other King Hauler. As for the bottoms matching up , cut and add 2 or 3mm strips of styrene to lineup the cab and sleeper.

Thanks for the info brother! If I was to cut the sleeper from the cab and raise the cab with washers, wouldn't that make the gap between the grill and front bumper be to much? If you have a thread on your idea, please let me know so I can see what it look's like.

Big John

[HAZMAN]

No thread but a lot of pictures. I actually made a new bumper mounting plate and raised the bumper 3mm. I'll upload the build picks to my post image page and send you the link.

[glorydays24]

Originally Posted by HAZMAN

No thread but a lot of pictures. I actually made a new bumper mounting plate and raised the bumper 3mm. I'll upload the build picks to my post image page and send you the link.

[HAZMAN]

https://postimg.cc/gallery/jzniiriy/

OK, I included a link with build pics of my Aerodyne. I checked the gaps on my Aerodyne with one screw spacer under each cab mount and I'm seeing about a 1 mm gap between the bumper and the fender, and a 2mm gap from the top of the cab to the aerodyne cap. There's a pic of the front bumpers of the 85 KW and of my latest project the W900 Studio Sleeper with a 4mm spacer lift. I wanted body flaring under the cab and sleeper for lights but covered them with chrome step trim. I added flaring to the front lip of the fender to close the bumper gap and purposely left the space under the grille open. if separating the Cab and sleeper you can also elongate the bumper mounting holes to raise it up, which I may do. This only works if using a aluminum bumper as the stock plastic bumper has the molded slot for the bumper mount.