View Full Version : Heat exchanger
cosworth34677
11-10-2015, 08:56 PM
What would be a cool thing to use as heat exchanger? Make something out of brass?use a pc cooling radiator? Or just use a huge tank? Any ideas? Also do you put this heat exchanger before the pump after the pump, before it goes into the cylinders or before it goes into the tank?
chris deacon
11-10-2015, 09:20 PM
What do you need this heat exchanger for buddy?
cosworth34677
11-10-2015, 09:35 PM
What do you need this heat exchanger for buddy?
Trying to help cool my blazing hot pump and oIl in my excavator, the pump it get stupid hot ! Almost can't touch it hot.
Rakthi
11-10-2015, 09:41 PM
Would seem logical to put it in the return line before the oil goes into the tank.
chris deacon
11-10-2015, 09:50 PM
Trying to help cool my blazing hot pump and oIl in my excavator, the pump it get stupid hot ! Almost can't touch it hot.
Well to me it seems as though you are trying to treat the symptoms rather than cure the problem. Simple matter of fact is something must be wrong with your setup mate.
I agree with chris deacon. But...... do you at least have a fan blowing over the components?
Rimrock
11-11-2015, 05:29 AM
Sorry, but in my opinion, the main problem here is basically the typically 'cheap equipment' issue. Looks to be the same pump as in the Magom Bruder excavators, which many owners have had issues with, at least the early versions.
Cheap pump => low low efficiency => crazy high rpm constantly => hot hot hot (if the pressure is abnormally high, caused by some obstructions in the system that should not be there, or system pressure set too high, one can add another; 'hot', or two..;) )
- Try reduce the system pressure to a point you got enough forces in the cylinders, but not more than that..Adjust the 'pressure relieve valve', if it exists in the system/pump..If it's even not there...well, there you go..)
- I would possible also try to do some mix operations on the radio; let the pump rpm down to e.g. 10-30% of max speed when no valves are operating (as soon as one of the valve servoes are moving, pump motor speed goes to max)
- Installing a compact PC cooler and fan in the system, on the return line before the tank, can help reduce the heat. A larger tank will also be helpful (not as much as a cooler). Even a fan blowing air out of the machine house will help a bit.
- Magom offers a heatsink incl. fan for your motor. Can help a bit.
- The early Magom systems was made to operate with brake fluid, not oil. Don't know what you're using.
- Evaluate replacing the old pump with the latest Magom version with a brushless motor (not the 900 ml pump..way too big here..) With or without tank as you wish..
ngward79
11-11-2015, 01:12 PM
http://www.rcspecialequipment.com/1/radiatore_olio_per_modellini_idraulici_9823924.htm l
http://s10.postimg.org/43290nbax/Radiiatore_4_attacchi.jpg
JAMMER
11-11-2015, 02:07 PM
FreddyGearDrive made an exchange way back when. Ed
cosworth34677
11-11-2015, 09:38 PM
Thanks guys for the info, love that one in the link
andyathome
11-11-2015, 11:35 PM
or gut an old PC that has water cooling and use that as a radiator/heat exchanger, that way is almost guarantied not to leak .
personally I would use a bigger tank and slow the motor down, and fit a pressure bypass.
my 4200 is running at half the speed it came with, twice as long run time and no heat issues, leaks have almost become non-existent.
cheers andy
thetractorfan
01-31-2016, 11:32 AM
if the oil is hot, change the oil. if it is dark, contaminants may be clogging up the system, making pressure causing heat. a proper sized pc radiator should do, you don`t want the bearings in your pump to burn out.
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