internal O-ring grooves?

[Mech_Eng]

I am in the process of building the turning cylinders for my adt project and am having trouble figuring out how to cut the internal o ring grooves for the piston rod seals. bore is 0.190 so there is not much room to get a tool in. I tried grinding a tool bit to get inside the hole to cut the grooves but it broke. Any help would be appreciated.

[Bo Wallen]

This is what i got......close you'll might be able to use this.http://www.penntoolco.com/30-464-2/?_vsrefdom=adwords&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIwrLq34-e2QIVkLXACh2zoA5eEAQYBCABEgKVh_D_BwE

[Bo Wallen]

And this one might work depending on depth.http://internaltool.com/products/lathe/26/o-ring-dovetail-groovers

[Bo Wallen]

and this one is great suplier too.https://www.carbideanddiamondtooling.com/.038-.039-Width-Carbide-Full-Radius-Grooving-.312-Shank-Tool-Series-24-ID-2831

[Mech_Eng]

Thanks Bo! Looks like I’m going to have to spend some $$ to get one of these cutters.

[Bo Wallen]

Thanks Bo! Looks like I’m going to have to spend some $$ to get one of these cutters.

Tools aren't cheap if you wanna have a good seal.....i assume it's for hydraulics funktion. Otherwise you could Mc Iver a tool bit with some grinding.
I've saw some for $40 to make one grove it's expensive yes.

[Rimrock]

I use a Iscar Picco tool for internal grooves, paid something like 30 USD. There are many sizes. It has straight corners, function just fine. For a holder I drilled a hole in a square bar, put a couple of set screw.

An example,
https://www.jurassictools.com/store/product/iscar-picco-r007-0200-25-ic228-miniature-carbide-internal-grooving-bar-new

[Cooper]

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/RC%20construction/A6EBCEF0-88B8-4DC0-A83A-F302931737D8_zps9hnxxmbu.jpg (http://s1357.photobucket.com/user/cooperford/media/RC%20construction/A6EBCEF0-88B8-4DC0-A83A-F302931737D8_zps9hnxxmbu.jpg.html)

I had been using tools that I ground myself for a while. Would never get consistency and forget about taking a couple more thousands off after original cut. Finally purchased these and still look new. First time I used the purchased ones I thought they came loose because I couldn’t feel anything. But it was cutting like butter. (In brass). Used them on stainless and on low carbon steels. Still like new. Unless you have a good understanding of cutting geometry and a pretty precise grinding wheel I (knowing what I know now) would spend the $20-40 on it. But on the flip side forming your own tools is rewarding once you get it correct. Me personally, not that I don’t want to learn and understand cutting geometries, I would rather learn how to make the parts :). And if you are making grooves for the cylinders try to get the shortest shank tool. More rigid=better cuts. With these ones above I can secure them in quick change tool holders. A dedicated holder would be nice but these have flats ground into them so as long as they are on centerline and parallel I’m good to go. Hope this helps :).