Scania airport fire truck

[Wombii]

I'm a beginner at styrene stuff. I started this project a year and a half ago on scale4x4rc, but this place seems like a great place to get input from people interested in big rigs. I don't know what I'm doing, and really welcome constructive criticism, even for things that are too late to fix! Do not be afraid to point out errors.

Link to the original post at scale4x4rc (http://scale4x4rc.org/forums/showthread.php?t=82630) with details of all my beginner mistakes.
Here's the full album: https://imgur.com/a/E9L4j. The following 2 posts are a quick summary.

Project:
Scania Rosenbauer airport fire truck, As delivered by Egenes AS to the Royal Norwegian Air Force in 2009. Very similar trucks have since been delivered to the Norwegian civilian airport operator Avinor. The RNoAF trucks are based on a Scania P470 in 4x4 and 6x6 versions with a combination of winch and water cannon or a F-16 rescue platform mounted on the front. The Avinor trucks are slightly newer, and seems to be based on a P550. The Avinor versions are equipped both as crew cab and single cab in 4x4 and 6x6. The most notable difference on the outside is that the Avinor versions have a smooth side panel on the water tank module and orange stripes instead of a red, white and blue stripe on the RNoAF version.

Specs of the Avinor 6x6 crew cab version:
SCANIA P550 CB6X6HHZ
Length: 1055 cm
Width: 255 cm
Weight: 16 metric tons, with max allowable weight 30 metric tons.
Tire dimensions: 395/85R20

Specifics of my inspiration, RNoAF 6x6 delivered to Rygge air force base in 2010:
http://www.egenes.as/news.asp?id=9714&c=167&t=425
SCANIA P470CB 6x6
10200 liter water tank
600 liter foam tank
RM60C mounted on the roof, 4000 liters per minute.
RM8E mounted on the front bumper, 1000 liters per minute.

Specs of my model:
To be determined
Roughly 73 cm long.
186mm wide at rear wheels.

References and links:
Google site search of Egenes.as, because they've only indexed newer trucks in their table of contents:
https://www.google.no/search?q=site:egenes.as+luftforsvaret&safe=off&filter=0&biw=1334&bih=790

Egenes AS website, a true treasure trove of info and pictures of fire trucks delivered by Egenes:
http://www.egenes.as/

Rosenbauer Buffalo Airport fire trucks, including data sheets for sample vehicles:
https://www.rosenbauer.com/en/svc/rosenbauer-world/vehicles/arff-vehicles/buffalo

Brochure and specs for Rosenbauer RM60C water cannon (PDF):
https://www.veljeksetkulmala.fi/uploads/media_items/rosenbauer-rm-60-c-ohjelmoitava-vaahtotykki.original.pdf

Norwegian vehicle database with basic specs for all registered vehicles:
https://www.vegvesen.no/Kjoretoy/Kjop+og+salg/Kjøretøyopplysninger

Some nice builds with detailed photos. The Scania and Man TGX builds have been very helpful:
http://robse.dk/

Flickr albums with reference shots of the roof of a crew cab:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/111333892@N04/sets/72157681852507242/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/111emergency/29612523816/

Notes:
The CP31 crew cab is longer than the CP28, and has room for an extra window in the middle.
The rear door of the crew cabs is slightly higher than the front doors. (about 3mm on CP28 in 1/14 scale).
The Tamiya Scania body is not perfect, especially with the height of the door handles and door groove. If you base your cut on those reference points, you will run into trouble.
The part number for the main body is 9335474.
The color of European ambulances and yellow emergency vehicles is RAL 1016 Sulphur yellow. It's not available from Tamiya. It's weird and looks deep yellow, unsaturated yellow or almost lime green depending on the light.

The water tank level lights on the trucks delivered after 2009 are only lit when the pump is powered. They're lit when the ignition is on in the earlier Avinor trucks.
The round rear lights are rear lights and brake lights combined in the LED ring, and turn signal in the middle.
The work lights on the top of the rear module is also used as reverse lights.
In Norway parking lights and side markers are always on. Driving lights have to be on when moving during the day. Low beam has to be on at night and auxiliary high beams may only be on if the normal high beams are on. Driving lights may or may not be on when low beams are on.

The RNoAF trucks have the older non symmetric dashboard instrument panel. The newer Avinor trucks have the newer symmetric dash.
The RNoAF trucks have a reverse cam display mounted to the panel above the windscreen near the ceiling. The newer Avinor trucks have it integrated in the dashboard.


Useful English/American synonyms: Parking lights - sidelights. Rear lights - taillights. Turn signals - indicators. Brake lights - stop lights. Full beam - high beam - main beam. Dipped beam - low beam.

*Constructive criticism is very welcome*

[Wombii]

Started off with a Tamiya Scania R620 kit.
Modification of the air deflector things from R to P model:
http://i.imgur.com/6cHqRrql.jpg (https://imgur.com/6cHqRrq)

I used the bracket as a template for where to drill the new holes. The upper hole for mounting the corner nostril is now its lower hole.
http://i.imgur.com/rhTAXOtl.jpg (https://imgur.com/rhTAXOt)

Cab split in half and the bottom cut away to make a P cab.
http://i.imgur.com/OvwItkcl.jpg (https://imgur.com/OvwItkc)

100% homemade rear doors from 3 layers of 1mm styrene sheet.
http://i.imgur.com/mE4jv1il.jpg (http://imgur.com/mE4jv1i)

Large 1mm plate as the main section of the roof
http://imgur.com/RWNQaM9s.jpg (http://imgur.com/RWNQaM9)

5mm x 1.5mm strips on both sides of the cab, with another strip angled on top.
0.5mm sheet cut into long wide strips, layered together to form an appropriately angled base on top of the cab.
http://imgur.com/2EUeVgmm.jpg (http://imgur.com/2EUeVgm) http://imgur.com/nFpNZJxm.jpg (http://imgur.com/nFpNZJx) http://imgur.com/63Ftx26m.jpg (http://imgur.com/63Ftx26)

0.5mm strips and the sunroof cover in place. 4mm wide 0.25mm strip on the outside of 1x1.5mm strips for the sides.
https://imgur.com/E7Nzdzrl.jpg (https://imgur.com/E7Nzdzr)

Extending the bottom of the doors and rear corners by 4mm
https://imgur.com/9M93MpNl.jpg (https://imgur.com/9M93MpN)

Converting the front bumper
http://imgur.com/AfM1KiGl.jpg (http://imgur.com/AfM1KiG)

And fenders
http://imgur.com/91FGsYYl.jpg (http://imgur.com/91FGsYY)

The rear modules are mostly big flat pieces glued together.
http://imgur.com/V2qE8F7l.jpg (http://imgur.com/V2qE8F7)

Simple hinges for the rear lower lockers, with the same movement as the 1:1.
http://imgur.com/KH1QGb6l.jpg (http://imgur.com/KH1QGb6)
http://imgur.com/GZYvSIRl.jpg (http://imgur.com/GZYvSIR)

Uhm…. Tadaa. There are more pictures of the rear modules in the album.
http://imgur.com/wAbdpHHl.jpg (http://imgur.com/wAbdpHH)

Rear suspension is raised as much as possible by using custom brackets from forum member egronvold, and mounting them lower on the frame. The front axle is turned upside down and should be about the same height as it will be if I swap it with a TLT axle.
https://imgur.com/ljK1lrel.jpg (https://imgur.com/ljK1lre)

[Wombii]

If I don't split this into multiple posts, the forum page is going to end up miles long and very bandwidth heavy.

7 chamber taillights using 1206 SMD LEDs.
https://imgur.com/cqbuAool.jpg (https://imgur.com/cqbuAoo)
https://imgur.com/bQL1tVTl.jpg (https://imgur.com/bQL1tVT)

With license plate light
http://i.imgur.com/bvjW4OUl.jpg (https://imgur.com/bvjW4OU)
http://i.imgur.com/djrpDjbl.jpg (https://imgur.com/djrpDjb)

Prototype for the high mounted taillights. Taillight + brake light in the LED ring and turn signal in the middle with fiber optics and 5mm LEDs.
http://i.imgur.com/V3k4QgCl.jpg (https://imgur.com/V3k4QgC)

New old style headlights. 1mm and 0.5mm styrene.
http://i.imgur.com/v17CQBtl.jpg (https://imgur.com/v17CQBt)

Back of right headlight unit with improvised heat sink for the main light. Orange 1206 and warm white 2835 LEDs.
https://imgur.com/8nODsdtl.jpg (https://imgur.com/8nODsdt)

http://i.imgur.com/fmq2X9Ql.jpg (https://imgur.com/fmq2X9Q)

I'm building a light and servo controller around an Arduino Mega. This is a system testing interface panel for switching lights and checking the state of the controller.
https://imgur.com/ropdhzZl.jpg (https://imgur.com/ropdhzZ)
https://imgur.com/loqRDfhl.jpg (https://imgur.com/loqRDfh)

interface panel demo:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cbddWVinL7c

2x 3528 blue LEDs on each side of the grille
https://imgur.com/LJzlOXgl.jpg (https://imgur.com/LJzlOXg)

1mm holes through the grille and a small piece of clear plastic
https://imgur.com/aDdsZHRl.jpg (https://imgur.com/aDdsZHR)

https://imgur.com/E01t7qkl.jpg (https://imgur.com/E01t7qk)


Front emergency lights demo
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kBJakXZSqis

[Zabco]

I think your work so far on this fire engine is fantastic. It is very difficult to match up all those compound curves and you've done a great job. I really like the lighting systems you've put together. I've never yet messed with SMD LEDs but now after seeing what youve done I think I will have to find a place to use some on my next project. A license plate light of all things, never ever seen anyone do that before. You'll have to explain more on what/how you are using the Arduino for also. Another thing I've thought about using somehow but never have.

People on these forums say all the time something to the effect of "boy, I wish I had your skills". Well there's only one way to get those skills and that's by doing exactly what your are, dive in and start building. Screw something up, toss it and try it again. Nice thing about using plastic is it's relatively inexpensive. Experience is the only way to learn. That's what I really like about this hobby, always something new to try. Keep up the great work and I look forward to seeing more of your progress.

[skeeter]

EXCELLENT work! It looks great!

[Efroeh]

some great work. look forward to seeing more progress

[Wombii]

Screw something up, toss it and try it again.
That is the true skill to master. It's so difficult to throw away something you've worked on for weeks, but sometimes you just have to start fresh. The next time will always be easier.

I'm hoping to do an intro to LED stuff and Arduino for RC purposes if I find the energy. There's a little bit more info on my Arduino project in the album and in the thread on the other forum, but I'll be sharing as much as possible, including wiring diagrams for the whole truck.
In short, the Arduino is decoding the SBUS signals from the receiver and controlling all the lights. It will also be controlling the water pump and servos for the water cannon and some trickery with a sound module. The switches on the troubleshooting/interface panel can be used for switching the lights without a radio when displaying the truck. The only functions running directly from the receiver will be ESC, steering and gear servo.

SMD LEDs are fragile, but cheap. 3528 LEDs are a nice start and almost as easy to solder as normal LEDs. They can take a lot more beating than 2835 and 1206 which will rip themselves apart when they hear you turn on the soldering iron. 5050 are bright and big enough to pick up, but they have 3 pads on each side, and one will desolder when soldering another. Just buy enough of them and you won't stress when they burn :)

[Zabco]

That is the true skill to master. It's so difficult to throw away something you've worked on for weeks, but sometimes you just have to start fresh. The next time will always be easier.
I have been doing modeling of one sort or another for over 50 years and that is probably the hardest thing I've ever had to learn.


I'm hoping to do an intro to LED stuff and Arduino for RC purposes if I find the energy. There's a little bit more info on my Arduino project in the album and in the thread on the other forum, but I'll be sharing as much as possible, including wiring diagrams for the whole truck.

Yes, please. Would be very interested in seeing.


In short, the Arduino is decoding the SBUS signals from the receiver and controlling all the lights. It will also be controlling the water pump and servos for the water cannon and some trickery with a sound module. The switches on the troubleshooting/interface panel can be used for switching the lights without a radio when displaying the truck. The only functions running directly from the receiver will be ESC, steering and gear servo.

Another thing I would love to see. Had no idea an Arduino could be used like that. Would really like to learn more about it's capabilities. Would open up a whole new world of RC control.


SMD LEDs are fragile, but cheap. 3528 LEDs are a nice start and almost as easy to solder as normal LEDs. They can take a lot more beating than 2835 and 1206 which will rip themselves apart when they hear you turn on the soldering iron. 5050 are bright and big enough to pick up, but they have 3 pads on each side, and one will desolder when soldering another. Just buy enough of them and you won't stress when they burn :)

Already learned more than I knew about SMDs. Think I was leery of using them in past because of their small size but I believe I will give them a go now. Thanks for info and keep up the good work your doing.

[Wombii]

2019 update:

This paint is not consistent between production batches. I now have cans from 3 batches, and they all have slightly different colors. The newer cans are easier to work with though. They work fine with Tamiya primer, giving a semi-gloss finish. They can give a perfect gloss on smaller areas, but the paint is too thick and dries too quick to do wet coats on large areas without the paint pooling or running. The advantage of the thick paint is that it covers up imperfections nicely, like a filling primer. I can not recommend it for modelling use.

--------------------

Spring is here and the cab is yellow! I love this color. It changes between a pale chicken yellow and rich yellow and almost lime green depending on the light, but mostly looks like a tennis ball. It is also impossible to accurately capture on camera.

This specific paint is really difficult to get a good result with. I've used a full can just trying to get comfortable with it, spraying all the leftover body parts. The paint is quite thick, the nozzle spray pattern is messy, and it dries very fast. The spray distance difference between runny and dust that won't stick is about 2 inches. The result when you get it right is amazing though. It's much thicker than Tamiya spray paint, and fills small scratches. Nice for this project, maybe not for smaller plastic models.

Motip acrylic RAL 1016, NCS 0362-G82Y, sulfur yellow. Click image to view can.
https://imgur.com/GjrBS2Ds.jpg (https://imgur.com/GjrBS2D)

The manufacturer and importer recommends the clear Motip plastic primer. I decided to make it difficult for myself by wanting to use gray Tamiya primer because of all the steps of priming, sanding and filling on the cab.

Some of my test pieces using the Tamiya primer had some subtle crazing show up after a few days. It only affected the finish. I could still hit it with a hammer and screw driver without any cracking or flaking. I tested using little primer, a lot of primer and different drying times, without much difference. A Fresh thick layer of primer actually gave a smoother finish, but showed no difference in crazing after a few days.

The paint grips to itself without issues. Painting over itself after a few days of hardening shows no negative effects.
Note that spraying directly on unprimed body parts seems to be safe for the styrene, but it can be scraped off, or pulled off with masking tape.

Crazing with Tamiya primer after first paint coats.
https://imgur.com/SG1xq7ns.jpg (https://imgur.com/SG1xq7n)

Thin layers are safe to touch after about 15 seconds. The finished paint job is safe to touch softly after 15 minutes, but can still be marked with a nail for a while. It can be polished after 2 hours. 95% of the smell goes away in the first 24 hours.

My final method is as follows:
- Prime and let harden for a week
- Start painting with thin dry layers, waiting 10-15 minutes between each layer. Go slightly thicker and wetter with the later layers. 4-5 layers in total.
- Let it the paint sit for 4 days. Wetsand it smooth with 1200. This will remove any crazing. (I didn't have any crazing when doing the cab, but a very rough finish from the dry layers.)
- Repeat the painting, starting thinner, finishing with a layer that is as wet and thick as possible without any running. The paint should not react to itself, and won't craze.

Shiny roof
https://imgur.com/vxR5vCjl.jpg (https://imgur.com/vxR5vCj)

Shiny left side
https://imgur.com/jhNA9Uxl.jpg (https://imgur.com/jhNA9Ux)

Shiny right side
https://imgur.com/msZ6b8sl.jpg (https://imgur.com/msZ6b8s)

On the truck
https://imgur.com/LsugcIXl.jpg (https://imgur.com/LsugcIX)


Sun visor modification:

Sun visor extra lights and marker lights. 3x 2835 warm white and 4x 3528 neutral white LEDs.
https://imgur.com/TDwGXFvl.jpg (https://imgur.com/TDwGXFv)

https://imgur.com/qnZxiWGl.jpg (https://imgur.com/qnZxiWG)

Built a small casing around the side marker lights. Trying to keep the wires as tidy as possible. I may need to paint them black.
https://imgur.com/xBXRwYAl.jpg (https://imgur.com/xBXRwYA)

[Zabco]

That paint job really turned out nice, good job. Have to admit though that I would never have associated a color called "sulpher yellow" with a fire engine.

[frizzen]

Wow, that color looks great on there!

That looks Really close to the main apparatus color at my airport.

http://www.indianafiretrucks.com/Station.aspx?StationId=624
http://www.indianafiretrucks.com/Station.aspx?StationId=625

[skeeter]

That loks amazing!

[Wombii]

Thanks for the links! That Oshkosh 8x8 looks fantastic.

I've spent the last couple of weeks fighting the urge to rebuild the rear sections. After making them last year, I've since found some better reference photos that shows they're too narrow at the top, by about 3mm on each side, or around 1/4" total. With the bottom at 180mm, the top should be 170mm wide, instead of 164. The error doubles the angle of the side panels and brings the top inside the roof corners on the cab. This is only visible from specific angles. The thing is that even if I fix it, that alignment will still be wrong because of some inaccuracies on the cab. This is probably a silly detail to spend so much mental energy on. I should just leave it alone......right? But maybe not? :p

[Wombii]

As far as I can tell, the front winch / monitor / rescue platform mount is mounted to the chassis through the lower grille on the real thing. To replicate that directly I would have to do some advanced metal work, and I don't have the skills or setup to do that. I'll do what I can with styrene and hope it's strong enough for some light winching. With the bumper raised by 10mm on the cab mount the lower mounting holes are exposed, and can be used as anchor points for some extra strength. I drilled a set of holes in the middle of the cab mount plate and screwed in a set of brass hex spacers.

https://imgur.com/i3uxaQol.jpg (https://imgur.com/i3uxaQo)

The new holes work as both mounting holes for the bumper itself and the winch platform.

https://imgur.com/qhgU6ftl.jpg (https://imgur.com/qhgU6ft)

The two things at the bottom are removable to hide the screw holes as much as possible.

https://imgur.com/GXlCdxLl.jpg (https://imgur.com/GXlCdxL)

I don't like that the lower screws are visible, but they're needed for strength if I ever use the winch. Hopefully they'll be less prominent when it's all painted black.

https://imgur.com/aPsSLPWl.jpg (https://imgur.com/aPsSLPW)

The lower grille is moved out from the truck, like the real thing. I believe that's how they make room to mount the platform to the chassis. The winch is a 1:10 crawler winch that is almost the perfect size.

https://imgur.com/W1Y9ZLcl.jpg (https://imgur.com/W1Y9ZLc)

I had to make some adjustments to the width of the RM8E water cannon body to fit it next to the winch, but I'm pretty happy with how it turned out. I don't think I'll put servos on it because the front is a bit cramped, but it is fully articulated.

https://imgur.com/IPrBIpCl.jpg (https://imgur.com/IPrBIpC)

https://imgur.com/Vb7PTOIl.jpg (https://imgur.com/Vb7PTOI)

[Wombii]

Second attempt at making headlight guards. My 30w soldering iron struggled with heating that 1,5mm copper wire. Not sure how to mount them on the truck though.

https://imgur.com/ZWHaC56l.jpg (https://imgur.com/ZWHaC56)

[frizzen]

About hiding the lower screws under winch, Can you hang a set of D-ring shackles (like used on 1/10 crawlers, or cranes) in the winch support brackets?

[Wombii]

That's a good idea. I also need to add a bundle of fake hydraulic pipes and a thick water hose which should help. Counter sunk screws might help too.

After hours of trying to make functional scale accurate clips that doesn't break, I noticed the guards were too short. Fortunately they were also a bit too wide, so I could fix it by adjusting the corners. While I was in there with the soldering iron I also soldered on some pins so I can give up on the clips.

https://imgur.com/OIVh0ajl.jpg (https://imgur.com/OIVh0aj)


Primed and ready for painting in what will inevitably be the wrong shade of gray. (I'll test TS-63 nato black first, but TS-82 rubber black might be better)

https://imgur.com/ums8Ewtl.jpg (https://imgur.com/ums8Ewt)

[Hostile]

Great work wombii. Been watching the thread on the other forum. Loving what you can do!

[Wombii]

Thank you!

I sprayed the bumper with TS-63 Nato black while painting some other body parts with TS-29 semi gloss black. Turns out bringing out two cans of different blacks is a bad idea. This is a picture of the bumper accidentally painted black on the third coat.

https://imgur.com/XrPMgkTl.jpg (https://imgur.com/XrPMgkT)


After a few extra coats of Nato black, this is the result. In certain lighting conditions it looks green, and it's a bit too dark.

https://imgur.com/bIMuKiOl.jpg (https://imgur.com/bIMuKiO)


Currently respraying with TS-82 Rubber black, and it's looking much better. Left is TS-63, right is TS-82. It's very hard to tell them apart in real life without a direct comparison like this, but the TS-82 has a slight hint of blue and looks like slightly faded matte black plastic.

https://imgur.com/oCTVKfwl.jpg (https://imgur.com/oCTVKfw)

[Wombii]

Front of the cab sprayed TS-29 semi gloss black.

https://imgur.com/cM0WeI5l.jpg (https://imgur.com/cM0WeI5)


I don't have an airbrush, and I didn't want to risk any leakage around the masking with a spray can, so I decided to try hand painting the door handles and red stripes with a brush and Tamiya acrylics. Note to future self: Just go with the masking and spraying. Brushing is too much work, you'll have to mask anyway, and the paint will wick under the tape edges if you thin it enough, leaving jagged edges.

https://imgur.com/aY9QxHvl.jpg (https://imgur.com/aY9QxHv)


End result looks pretty good though :)

https://imgur.com/u9zmhPZl.jpg (https://imgur.com/u9zmhPZ)

[Zabco]

Acrylic or enamel, red is one of those colors that is just a pita to paint with a brush. Really looking good.

[Wombii]

Reworking the fenders, so I get a second attempt at getting the rear steps right.

https://imgur.com/P3is2dHl.jpg (https://imgur.com/P3is2dH)

https://imgur.com/Skf3trZl.jpg (https://imgur.com/Skf3trZ)

Torture! I've tried so many times to find a simple way to make the steps, but none of them looked convincing. This is a weeks work, so this better end up looking perfect.

https://imgur.com/k7OGHOJl.jpg (https://imgur.com/k7OGHOJ)

https://imgur.com/AobYQzrl.jpg (https://imgur.com/AobYQzr)

[egronvold]

Amazing to follow:)

[Hostile]

Thats crazy good work. Time consuming but its that level of detail that makes it stand out 10/10 build!

[Zabco]

Those look amazing. First class craftsmanship.

[gismow]

It's an amazing work, brilliant. Please keep on going to flash us with your skills.

[Wombii]

Thank you for the words of encouragement.


Just enough left over for the extra hanging front steps.

http://i.imgur.com/oTXJTeWl.jpg (https://imgur.com/oTXJTeW)


The older truck doesn't have this bump. I think they're turn signals? The whole "shelf" should ideally be removed on the driver's side, but I've decided to leave it for the sake of structural integrity.

http://i.imgur.com/MuXnnkPl.jpg (https://imgur.com/MuXnnkP)


I've tested many ways of mounting the fender sections. I made a mounting system holding it with magnets from the top, but it ultimately wasn't stiff enough. Finally ended up removing most of what I did earlier and simplified it. A plate on the left side, a box for electronics on the right side. Mounts to the chassis rails with 2 screws.

http://i.imgur.com/We0uTG7l.jpg (https://imgur.com/We0uTG7)

http://i.imgur.com/pTYqIJrl.jpg (https://imgur.com/pTYqIJr)


One of the most difficult tasks is making this stuff in a way that physically possible to mount it. Here's my solution for removing the rear steps to access the screws for mounting the fenders to the chassis.

http://i.imgur.com/rc8yXXNl.jpg (https://imgur.com/rc8yXXN)

http://i.imgur.com/o8BmsdSl.jpg (https://imgur.com/o8BmsdS)

http://i.imgur.com/j2hoqENl.jpg (https://imgur.com/j2hoqEN)


Foldable ladder for the back.

http://i.imgur.com/kmngcszl.jpg (https://imgur.com/kmngcsz)

http://i.imgur.com/2Yp8gYbl.jpg (https://imgur.com/2Yp8gYb)

[Zabco]

Like your tab and slot solution for your fenders. Finished fenders look great.

[egronvold]

It's looking better and better. Will be interesting to see it fully painted.

[Wombii]

Sorry for the long break. I haven't really had the energy to write up the documentation or actually do much work.

Lift mechanism for the telescopic floodlight mast. It technically works, but it could use some refinement, and I'm not sure how to mount it so that I can do maintenance on it later. I've been trying to figure out the best way to design the mechanism for this for more than a year. There's not much room and I want it to extend as high as possible. I would rather have a static prop than a telescopic mast that barely reaches above the roof. This version uses a micro servo modified for continuous rotation with physical microswitches and diodes cutting off power to the servo motor to stop at top and bottom. The rack and pinion is a drive belt harvested from an old RC car.

http://i.imgur.com/gZ3DE36l.jpg?1 (https://imgur.com/gZ3DE36)

http://i.imgur.com/0Sz8w3vl.jpg (https://imgur.com/0Sz8w3v)

http://i.imgur.com/4RDj2pjl.jpg (https://imgur.com/4RDj2pj)


One set of top mounted floodlights is done. Again using the 2835 LEDs (and again broke a couple while soldering) mounted in a plastic case that pops into the mounts. Round tube through a round hole is a pretty simple way to mount stuff, as it turns out. Why do I not have a 3D printer yet? I deeply hate making multiples of something. Just 4 more to go though.

http://i.imgur.com/dB3fqfhl.jpg (https://imgur.com/dB3fqfh)

http://i.imgur.com/RPqlU0Il.jpg (https://imgur.com/RPqlU0I)


Started on the water level indicator lights for the middle pump module.

http://i.imgur.com/Xa5jjD4l.jpg (https://imgur.com/Xa5jjD4)


Took out the mysterious but cheap fingernail tool again and scribed the last shutter.

http://i.imgur.com/xCWMjH7l.jpg (https://imgur.com/xCWMjH7)


Simple mounting for the plates that the taillights are mounted on. I think I need a truck dictionary to figure out what everything is called. They'll probably be glued in eventually.

http://i.imgur.com/hxfNmXMl.jpg (https://imgur.com/hxfNmXM)


Roughly started on the cab interior to find out where to hide the wiring. Fortunately the 1:1 P crew cab also has the engine in the middle of it, so I can make it reasonably accurate. I'm planning to hide the ESC under the rear bench. I'm hoping heat won't be an issue. I can't do much more work until I've figured out the wiring for the middle section.

http://i.imgur.com/BFKWyBll.jpg (https://imgur.com/BFKWyBl)

http://i.imgur.com/5PkSPwml.jpg (https://imgur.com/5PkSPwm)

[Wombii]

The middle module is where I'm planning to fit the battery, a huge pump, ESC for the pump, the BEC for the LEDs and micro servos, a voltage step up module, some switches and a distribution point for most of the wiring. I'm sure it's a brilliant idea to place a lipo battery and lots of sensitive electronics in the same compartment as a high pressure pump.

I found some 12v 30A switches that can hopefully survive the current. From right to left: Battery master switch, switch for all the extra electronics like arduino, lights and microservos and a master switch for the high pressure pump system.
Building a small enclosure for them that will let me access the wiring behind them.

http://i.imgur.com/1L2thuKl.jpg (https://imgur.com/1L2thuK)

http://i.imgur.com/IBPW4SCl.jpg (https://imgur.com/IBPW4SC)

http://i.imgur.com/b2ctAEKl.jpg (https://imgur.com/b2ctAEK)

[skeeter]

This looks nice.

[Wombii]

Small update.
The side marker lights on the middle compartment are a challenge. The side walls are 2mm thick, so there's not much room for LEDs. Fortunately they just need a small point light.

http://i.imgur.com/zpRvcWYl.jpg (https://imgur.com/zpRvcWY)


Broke four drill bits drilling a long 1mm channel for a fiber optic cable in each corner. A tiny 1206 SMD LED is inserted into a hole in the side lighting the back side of the fiber optics. A lot of light is lost doing it this way, but the side markers won't need to be very bright.

http://i.imgur.com/fn5a37Pl.jpg (https://imgur.com/fn5a37P)

http://i.imgur.com/2WEmJkHl.jpg (https://imgur.com/2WEmJkH)

The lights are just a small rectangular plastic piece.

http://i.imgur.com/EsJ2k7Rl.jpg (https://imgur.com/EsJ2k7R)

[kaptain Jack]

Iv been following your build and its nice to see how well its coming along.
Cant wait to see the finished product.

[Wombii]

Thanks!
I was just doing some test fitting. I had this all planned out now. When mounting the middle compartment on the chassis, I would connect the ESC power connector right before "touchdown". Turns out I can't get a good grip with my fingers on the connectors. I'll have to do a major rethink. Also, I don't have room for the receiver anymore. It wouldn't be a hobby if things went according to plan :)
edit: Does this planning thing become easier after a few builds?

[kaptain Jack]

Nope, just more surprises.

[Wombii]

We have movement!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7OKDRRXtG1k
Yes, that drive shaft is spliced together with masking tape.


Nope, just more surprises.
That's comforting :)

[frizzen]

I love the solutions you're coming up with for lighting.

Glad to see it's a roller. That cab already has a good presence, i can't wait until the whole body is on and we can see everything working together.

[Wombii]

Had to start with the dashboard modifications to figure out how many resistors I need on the front resistor board. Added some switches and backlighting for the reverse cam display and instrument panel. Green LEDs for turn signals.

http://i.imgur.com/4Hl0youl.jpg (https://imgur.com/4Hl0you)

http://i.imgur.com/9p5TdkUl.jpg (https://imgur.com/9p5TdkU)

http://i.imgur.com/hvcx0HKl.jpg (https://imgur.com/hvcx0HK)


Final design for the front resistor board.
http://i.imgur.com/tLnL2EGm.jpg (https://imgur.com/tLnL2EG)


Started working on the floodlights for the telescopic light mast. A lot of guesstimation based on photos to get the dimensions and angles right, but I feel it's pretty close. Mostly 1mm styrene. 5730 neutral white LED soldered to metal strips in the hope that they will move some of the heat to the outside.
http://i.imgur.com/StkfsAYl.jpg (https://imgur.com/StkfsAY)


Of course one broke when bending the metal strips
http://i.imgur.com/CyFL6Shl.jpg (https://imgur.com/CyFL6Sh)

http://i.imgur.com/DxP6S1xl.jpg (https://imgur.com/DxP6S1x)

http://i.imgur.com/TxhVm6yl.jpg (https://imgur.com/TxhVm6y)


I swear I tested them all before filling them with CA glue! Only tested at low power though. Turns out that when tested at full power for more than a minute one of them started blinking. Most likely damage from soldering. Always fun to carve out fully cured glue.
http://i.imgur.com/ui4ffIml.jpg (https://imgur.com/ui4ffIm)


I was hoping to run them at 60mA each, but I'll stick below 40 as I'm a bit concerned about heat buildup and don't feel like replacing any more LEDs in them for the next decade. I think they're bright enough anyway.
http://i.imgur.com/431cO3gl.jpg (https://imgur.com/431cO3g)

[kaptain Jack]

Dashboard looks very promising.

[Wombii]

Thanks, I have hopes that it will turn out ok when done. I decided against trying to backlight the buttons, but I'll do some testing to see if it's possible to do something with UV fluorescent sharpies and a UV LED.

The desk lamp works:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CXhw7GcKJFM

[Wombii]

Some extra fine tuning and wired up the side facing work lights for the first time.
http://i.imgur.com/XosiTQhl.jpg (https://imgur.com/XosiTQh)

http://i.imgur.com/5GeeLN1l.jpg (https://imgur.com/5GeeLN1)

Video of the above.
https://youtu.be/27gz7NAnVI0

[Bo Wallen]

Now that's pretty sweet. I'm following this for sure.:)

[Wombii]

Magnet mount for the water tank section.

http://i.imgur.com/L2Dwcncl.jpg (https://imgur.com/L2Dwcnc)


Workaround to get the rear crossmember at the right height compared to the body. The frame rails are too high because of reasons I no longer remember. The plan is to also use it as a mount in a transport case if I ever get around to making one.

http://i.imgur.com/plIrzgil.jpg (https://imgur.com/plIrzgi)

http://i.imgur.com/qBhc5FVl.jpg (https://imgur.com/qBhc5FV)



More side facing work lights. They all worked right after building them, but one broke while the glue fully cured a week later. I should probably get a cheap USB microscope to check these fragile 2835 LEDs for damage after soldering.

http://i.imgur.com/v2KJOmHl.jpg (https://imgur.com/v2KJOmH)

http://i.imgur.com/8fBUFTPl.jpg (https://imgur.com/8fBUFTP)

http://i.imgur.com/EKjtvefl.jpg (https://imgur.com/EKjtvef)


I've also been doing some work on the rear storage compartments. The right one now contains a mini-usb that serves as both 5v supply in display mode and programming connection for the Arduino. Two switches selects USB or battery power for the Arduino and USB or BEC power for the low power LEDs.

http://i.imgur.com/UfOQgD6l.jpg (https://imgur.com/UfOQgD6)

http://i.imgur.com/9bT8sDGl.jpg (https://imgur.com/9bT8sDG)

http://i.imgur.com/ZE9NRevl.jpg (https://imgur.com/ZE9NRev)

http://i.imgur.com/HCJTdDbl.jpg (https://imgur.com/HCJTdDb)

http://i.imgur.com/dMmeprHl.jpg (https://imgur.com/dMmeprH)


And hopefully done with the soldering on the main circuit board.

http://i.imgur.com/ekAmLoMl.jpg (https://imgur.com/ekAmLoM)


I'm completely rebuilding the RM60C roof monitor / water cannon / turret. This time I'm trying to get as close to scale as possible. Simple hinge mechanism located as close to the center as possible to replicate the way it lowers and rises with the pitch motions. I've really been struggling with figuring out how to make this work. I was hoping to fit both the rotation and pitch servos, but even after downsizing to 3.7g servos I've ended up with moving the rotation servo to the roof to keep the scale size of the monitor body. There just isn't room in there for both of them with that hinge, lights and the stiff nitro fuel line.

http://i.imgur.com/7XYXlz5l.jpg (https://imgur.com/7XYXlz5)

http://i.imgur.com/jiOqNhAl.jpg (https://imgur.com/jiOqNhA)

http://i.imgur.com/HXCdVVWl.jpg (https://imgur.com/HXCdVVW)

http://i.imgur.com/8QxJmxvl.jpg (https://imgur.com/8QxJmxv)

http://i.imgur.com/nosfA2hl.jpg (https://imgur.com/nosfA2h)

Video of pitch movement:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uy_qYI0ExHk

Bonus picture

http://i.imgur.com/mdYHt6Al.jpg (https://imgur.com/mdYHt6A)

[Efroeh]

wow this is a amazing build. cant wait to see more.

[Zabco]

Just keeps getting better and better, keep up the great work.

[frizzen]

Those power and lighting panels are looking about as complex as the real pump panels.

That new monitor is looking great. Could the pitch servo be trimmed a little and fit up in the rounded side with a fwd/aft pushrod instead?

If nitro fuel line is too stiff, would some Silicone wire insulation be any better for you? Removing conductors isn't alwaysthe easiest, but it's about the most flexible 'tube'.

I love the snow night picture!!!

[ChILd_ReBoRn]

If you need silicone tubes, go and buy urinary catheters. Cheap as dirt, soft as a feather :)

[Wombii]

Could the pitch servo be trimmed a little and fit up in the rounded side with a fwd/aft pushrod instead?

I was hoping to be able to do that. Part of the problem is my lack of experience and the order of operations. 3D printing could probably solve the issue, but I'm building the shroud by first making a support structure and then adding thin strips to shape the 3 dimensional curve. I don't know how much of the support structure I can remove without weakening the shell too much. I also need that support structure to build the bottom third with another inward angled curve. After building that part I no longer have access to cleanly remove the support structure.
Another part is not having enough room in there. I want the shroud as close to scale accurate as possible. I also don't want the servo poking out through the side of it. The bottom third is angled inwards and the top curves. That means the servo has to be moved close enough to the center that it the hose starts to give me trouble. The 3.7g servo is already as compact as it can get, and the next size down would probably be the linear servos in ultra micro airplanes which I think will be too weak. The hose takes up a lot of room because I can't bend it too sharply to avoid kinks. This doesn't even take into account the need to make a good rotating mount which will take up even more space on the bottom. Now that I have one way that I know works, I'll take another look to see if I can rotate the servo in a weird angle and make it fit back there though. It would make it cleaner and avoid water dripping on the servo. Another solution would be to hide the servos in the cab, but I spent 6 months on that roof, and I don't want to drill holes in it. :D

Thank you both for the suggestions about tubing. I'll look into them. The fuel tubing I'm using has a pretty thick wall. My initial concern with more flexible tubing is that the line will either kink in the bends or try harder to straighten out when pressurized with water, making it just as stiff. In the small amount of testing I've done the nitro tubing starts fighting pretty hard when I turn on the pump.
The oversized pump has nipples for a very thick 6 (or is it 8?) mm inner diameter tube. I'll be running that from tank to pump and pump to roof. On the roof I'm connecting it to the shorter line of fuel tubing through the monitor. The fuel tubing perfectly fits inside the thicker tubing which make that job easier. This is all a huge experiment though, and I don't know what I'm doing, so I appreciate the suggestions.

[Lil Giants]

Some fantastic old school skills in modelling here that you don't see any more b/c of 3D printers. Good job! Subscribed :cool:

[Wombii]

This fire monitor keeps throwing problems at me that I never considered. One of them is how to make a simple swivel mount with low friction that is both stable and can be attached and detached reasonably quickly. Another issue is the geometry of a flexible tube. If it bends at another radius or another location than the hinges, the tube will need to stretch. This causes strain on the servos that they can't overcome. I've solved it for the pitch servo, but I don't see a solution for the rotation axis. Currently, rotating the monitor 30 degrees moves the end of the silicone tube by half an inch.

This is my current attempt at a swivel mount using a ring magnet on a thin tube that snaps to a ball bearing inside a large tube.

http://i.imgur.com/0yg90Twl.jpg (https://imgur.com/0yg90Tw)
http://i.imgur.com/1jh5odHl.jpg (https://imgur.com/1jh5odH)
http://i.imgur.com/WdkyXFAl.jpg (https://imgur.com/WdkyXFA)


Carving cosmetic ridges on the nozzle shroud. They really made a huge difference to the scale appearance.

http://i.imgur.com/MITAZnOl.jpg (https://imgur.com/MITAZnO)
http://i.imgur.com/Jqw5SiBl.jpg (https://imgur.com/Jqw5SiB)


I gave it another shot and managed to carve out enough support structure to mount the swivel rotation servo on the inside, made a removable structure to hold the pitch servo and swivel mount and got the skirt mounted. I also apparently killed the pitch servo. I was hoping it was due to glue, but it looks like I bent the output shaft a fraction of a degree. That's a bit worrying, as I can't fit larger servos. Also visible to the rear is a bent styrene guide tube that helps reduce the strain of the pitch servo caused by the silicone tubing.

http://i.imgur.com/pdlnNIKl.jpg (https://imgur.com/pdlnNIK)
http://i.imgur.com/l4BwEVHl.jpg (https://imgur.com/l4BwEVH)



Other than these issues I'm very happy with the shell. The construction with thinner layered materials make it surprisingly strong and light.

http://i.imgur.com/YwzbDBCl.jpg (https://imgur.com/YwzbDBC)

[egronvold]

Bare å bøye seg i hatten, som Weng sa :)

[Wombii]

Switched to a thinner tube (2,5mm vs 3,5mm inner diameter, but much thinner walls) and now I'm not that worried about the servos. Did some testing, and the water flow is still acceptable. The nozzle still needs to be smaller than that anyway, to get a suitable throw distance.

I've hidden the connection between the 7mm and 2,5mm tube inside the dummy pipe going to the monitor. The thin tube needs a loose S curve or a loop to not hinder the rotation of the monitor, but I'm not 100% sure this is the best way to do it. The alternative is to let the water tube exit the top of the monitor. The real monitor has a thinner tube there (I believe it's for foam chemicals). That would mean another major change to the monitor though.

http://i.imgur.com/EysYi4Bl.jpg (https://imgur.com/EysYi4B)

http://i.imgur.com/J3llndrl.jpg (https://imgur.com/J3llndr)


I really don’t want to do that change though, because I'm almost happy with the filling and sanding on the back of it.

http://i.imgur.com/j6Uj13Nl.jpg (https://imgur.com/j6Uj13N)


In other news, I also tested the design for the water level sensor, and It's nowhere near reliable enough. I'm ditching the transistors and went with another arduino. This will also let me send the water level and all the battery + BEC voltage levels as telemetry data through the receiver, or I could display the current gear or other data on the LEDs instead.

https://youtu.be/bfd05Ux-Fx8

My main pump operates one way only, so I'm going to use my backup 12v nitro fuel pump to fill and drain the water tank. By chopping off some bits with a hacksaw I can just about fit it in the space on the left side below the tank compartment, giving me plenty of room for the tank itself.

http://i.imgur.com/KEInCynl.jpg (https://imgur.com/KEInCyn)

[Wombii]

http://i.imgur.com/qFkkriAl.jpg (https://imgur.com/qFkkriA)

Major hiccup / minor disaster. Confirmed my suspicions with some paint tests today. Turns out of the 3 cans of paint I bought, one of them has a newer production date. That can is far more gray/green than the first two. Now I'll either have to buy another can and hope it matches the first two, or find a better paint and repaint what I've already done.

[skeeter]

This project is really looking good!

[Wombii]

Thank you!

Started a very simple roof liner. Holes for interior dome lights and mounted using the same magnet setup that holds the roof platform.

http://i.imgur.com/wxmaWIpl.jpg (https://imgur.com/wxmaWIp)

http://i.imgur.com/UH0J5nkl.jpg (https://imgur.com/UH0J5nk)

http://i.imgur.com/W2n16chl.jpg (https://imgur.com/W2n16ch)

[Wombii]

Rough center console / divider / shelf thing.

http://i.imgur.com/yflcI64l.jpg (https://imgur.com/yflcI64)

http://i.imgur.com/LbWt6xtl.jpg (https://imgur.com/LbWt6xt)

[Wombii]

Finishing up the rear fenders. Side marker light should hopefully work with a 3mm LED, no fiber optics.

http://i.imgur.com/goBQCgwl.jpg (https://imgur.com/goBQCgw)


5mm warm white LEDs in the monitor.

http://i.imgur.com/nx2blo3l.jpg (https://imgur.com/nx2blo3)

http://i.imgur.com/LwNKAwhl.jpg (https://imgur.com/LwNKAwh)


Got another two boxes of yellow paint. This batch still doesn't fully match the first two, but it's less green than box 3. I also got the correct plastic primer which I'll be testing both alone and in combination with the Tamiya primer. Tried spraying it, and it's tricky to ensure good covering of a clear spray on white plastic.
Painted the pump section with yellow paint on white Tamiya primer.

http://i.imgur.com/na9SwuRl.jpg (https://imgur.com/na9SwuR)


This is very much not a scale feature, but I'm cheating a bit and making a carrying handle. It shouldn't be too obvious hidden in the other mess on the roof, and it will make it a lot less scary to move the thing.

http://i.imgur.com/tuW8mGJl.jpg (https://imgur.com/tuW8mGJ)


Final image is a follow up on an earlier test. Tamiya TS-63 Nato black and TS-82 Rubber black. Bottom half was no clear coat, top half Motip clear coat. On top of that is a stripe of Tamiya Flat clear crossing both parts. Observations: Nato black is more green, rubber black is more blue. The glossy clear coat makes them look much darker and closer in color. Tamiya flat clear on top of the glossy clear returns them to their natural look, but flat clear on top of the "raw" paint adds slightly more light gray.

http://i.imgur.com/UlwyNYQl.jpg (https://imgur.com/UlwyNYQ)

In the last week I've started to feel I have a chance of actually finishing this someday. My todo list fits on one page now.

[frizzen]

That rig just keeps getting cooler!

Maybe hide the carry handle by etching it with "scania" or "rosenbauer" logos / Mount some lights on it?

[Wombii]

A logo would look good. There's going to be some boxes and ladders up there, so it should hopefully be able to blend in.

Glued the side panels on the tank module.
I had tried fixing some issues with one of the panels, but did a poor job. Tried to ignore it and glued it on anyway. After priming I eventually decided this would bother me, even though no one else would probably ever notice, so I spent some time ripping it off again and made a new one.

http://i.imgur.com/rJFpidSl.jpg (https://imgur.com/rJFpidS)


Painted the bottom black, sides yellow. The new paint cans look pretty good, but it's now super obvious that I'll have to repaint the rear section again because that can 3 was way too green. As a bonus a gust of wind sprinkled my newly painted side panel with grass, so I had to do a bit of sanding and paint it again. Tamiya gray primer for the sanding process then Tamiya white primer then yellow seems to work fine now.

http://i.imgur.com/8Jhj7ajl.jpg (https://imgur.com/8Jhj7aj)


I'm still struggling with the fiber optic light shining through the side walls of the pump module though.

http://i.imgur.com/6z3xARyl.jpg (https://imgur.com/6z3xARy)


This is after spraying primer - Tamiya silver - primer - yellow - yellow on top. It's still shining through, but much better. I've also painted the bottom half of the sides, gave the rear section another coat with the new can and moved the rear wheels again, hopefully for the last time.

http://i.imgur.com/86kBRR6l.jpg (https://imgur.com/86kBRR6)

[egronvold]

Thumbs up! Nice weather for painting these days ;)

[Wombii]

The weather has really been perfect for painting this week, except for the pollen and other stuff in the air.


Very happy with how the RM60 roof monitor turned out in yellow.

http://i.imgur.com/QBCC04el.jpg (https://imgur.com/QBCC04e)

http://i.imgur.com/QhLLlQDl.jpg (https://imgur.com/QhLLlQD)

[Wombii]

I've tried to make as much as possible in separate parts so I don't have to do a lot of precision masking.

http://i.imgur.com/jD7kyFPl.jpg (https://imgur.com/jD7kyFP)

http://i.imgur.com/SHT5czcl.jpg (https://imgur.com/SHT5czc)

http://i.imgur.com/6LTxJv7l.jpg (https://imgur.com/6LTxJv7)

[Wombii]

The chassis looks good in black.
Motip etch primer + Motip high gloss black.

http://i.imgur.com/pgdDYq5l.jpg (https://imgur.com/pgdDYq5)

http://i.imgur.com/Ag6ZHdIl.jpg (https://imgur.com/Ag6ZHdI)

[Wombii]

I couldn't take it anymore. A bit of sanding, gray primer + the rest of a decade old can of Tamiya flat black, then white primer and resprayed the whole thing with yellow. No more light bleed, but I added so much paint that I need to shave down the rolling shutter door panels to make them fit again.

Two observations: I'm now out of primer again, and ten+ year old paint cans can technically work, but it's more like whipped cream than a precision instrument.

http://i.imgur.com/zmUhBv8l.jpg (https://imgur.com/zmUhBv8)

http://i.imgur.com/iSWjLhzl.jpg (https://imgur.com/iSWjLhz)

It's bothering me a bit that the cab is a slightly more saturated yellow than the rest, but I'm working hard on talking myself out of repainting that too.

[egronvold]

You aim for perfection, that’s for sure :D

[Wombii]

Doing my best. Fortunately, most of the flaws don't show up well in the photos ;)


Hit a roablock for a few days. I had so much lovely articulation in the rear, but never thought to check with the rear dog bone. Turns out that doesn't like articulation at all, so it kept falling out or binding. I found out that I also couldn't easily replace it with a proper drive shaft, because it's so tight and the 45-55mm type that would fit would end up stretching too far and disconnect. The only way I could find was to limit the travel enough by mounting the stock shocks. They prevent the wheel from dropping too far, but there will be a lot of force trying to pull them apart.

http://i.imgur.com/fMowPHUl.jpg (https://imgur.com/fMowPHU)

http://i.imgur.com/iN26Xzhl.jpg (https://imgur.com/iN26Xzh)

Started wiring everything up and final assembly (hopefully).
Didn't double check the switches when I soldered the last time, so they got mounted upside-down. Got a chance to turn them around after painting, so now USB power is selected by flipping them down towards the USB port.


http://i.imgur.com/1k93u3Tl.jpg (https://imgur.com/1k93u3T)

http://i.imgur.com/Tp0SQK2l.jpg (https://imgur.com/Tp0SQK2)

http://i.imgur.com/JsWDtxKl.jpg (https://imgur.com/JsWDtxK)

http://i.imgur.com/dgPZcqLl.jpg (https://imgur.com/dgPZcqL)

http://i.imgur.com/64LFe4Wl.jpg (https://imgur.com/64LFe4W)


Floor for the cab interior.

http://i.imgur.com/NmUDFmjl.jpg (https://imgur.com/NmUDFmj)

http://i.imgur.com/RBGTITLl.jpg (https://imgur.com/RBGTITL)

http://i.imgur.com/n5v2S2ml.jpg (https://imgur.com/n5v2S2m)

http://i.imgur.com/bET6Gyhl.jpg (https://imgur.com/bET6Gyh)

[skeeter]

Sorry to hear that you had to limit the travel. The amount of wiring in this project................it looks difficult to keep it all sorted.

[egronvold]

Sorry to hear that you had to limit the travel. The amount of wiring in this project................it looks difficult to keep it all sorted.

I think the wiresalesman sent him a Christmas card last Christmas :D

[Wombii]

Rainbow colored ribbon cables help with keeping it under control, but sometimes it's just easier to change the Arduino program to match the connections ;) . I'll post the full wiring diagrams when they're done. I'm glad I've documented everything since the beginning now that I've taken everything apart and started rebuilding it.

I put a cheap 5$ servo in as the gear servo, but apparently never actually tested it. Today I've spent most of the day troubleshooting and ended up swapping it out, because it's got full right deflection as the internal center position. No way to trim that out. Never seen that before. Again, the lesson (still not) learned is to test everything properly before building a truck around it.

[frizzen]

I dunno what they're going on about, it could still use more wires. Looks pretty empty to me. Then you can start tying them into harnesses or raceways so its pretty.

[Wombii]

I should have laid out all the wiring before installing it for some photos :p


The cab is now a slightly different shade of yellow, even though everyone told me not to risk ruining it with another coat from the newer paint can. Fortunately very happy with the results.
http://i.imgur.com/LrEm8ccl.jpg (https://imgur.com/LrEm8cc)


Accelerometer for roll over alarm connected to an Arduino that acts emulates a bunch of telemetry sensors, transmitting voltages, water tank level and accelerometer value to transmitter.
http://i.imgur.com/93bZ2bql.jpg (https://imgur.com/93bZ2bq)


Middle distribution board mostly populated
http://i.imgur.com/ldMCTiul.jpg (https://imgur.com/ldMCTiu)


Main board in the back with most of the wiring done. Missing the wires for the light mast and sound module.
http://i.imgur.com/46q4kB2l.jpg (https://imgur.com/46q4kB2)

Fully wired tail end. It looks a bit messy because I make sure to leave enough slack in case of future repairs or modifications.
http://i.imgur.com/jJC4MP1l.jpg (https://imgur.com/jJC4MP1)

http://i.imgur.com/tPCiFcUl.jpg (https://imgur.com/tPCiFcU)


Detailing the shutter doors
http://i.imgur.com/nFlKRNLl.jpg (https://imgur.com/nFlKRNL)
http://i.imgur.com/eeU08oLl.jpg (https://imgur.com/eeU08oL)


Ceiling:
Glued in some LEDs above the ceiling panel and soldered them up. Looks a bit messy, but it works.
http://i.imgur.com/hM6DtBYl.jpg (https://imgur.com/hM6DtBY)

Yellow dome lights when it's parked:
http://i.imgur.com/kaJ5kgol.jpg (https://imgur.com/kaJ5kgo)

Red map reading lights:
http://i.imgur.com/8vmM2Tyl.jpg (https://imgur.com/8vmM2Ty)

Painted the roof platform TS-17 gloss aluminum:
http://i.imgur.com/qyiFpbhl.jpg (https://imgur.com/qyiFpbh)

http://i.imgur.com/cOnPVfQl.jpg (https://imgur.com/cOnPVfQ)


Simple but very effective mod for the cheap chinese light buckets. Styrene tube painted with Molotow liquid chrome helps with the rotating beacon illusion.
http://i.imgur.com/hgdP8cUl.jpg (https://imgur.com/hgdP8cU)


Made one more piece for the side steps and got them painted. The hanging front steps are fastened with a small bit of paperclip so they can easily be popped off.
http://i.imgur.com/JsGOV7hl.jpg (https://imgur.com/JsGOV7h)

http://i.imgur.com/SApfUsAl.jpg (https://imgur.com/SApfUsA)

http://i.imgur.com/F0pQqujl.jpg (https://imgur.com/F0pQquj)

http://i.imgur.com/kc34bFgl.jpg (https://imgur.com/kc34bFg)

[egronvold]

Wiring is insane...

[Wombii]

Wiring is insane...
I forgot to take a picture of the mess behind the battery switch panel, and I'm afraid of opening it up again.



Shutter doors painted with TS-30 Silver leaf. Looks much more like aluminum than TS-17 gloss aluminum. White and navy blue stripes on the cab is Model Technics trimline tape. Painting the Scania letters on the front with a Molotow liquid chrome pen was a lot easier than cutting and applying the letter decals. (Do that after the final clear coat and don't touch it).

http://i.imgur.com/bUIhVFyl.jpg (https://imgur.com/bUIhVFy)

http://i.imgur.com/XmlRhxjl.jpg (https://imgur.com/XmlRhxj)


When I made the rear doors I didn't consider the curve of the windows. I may have posted an image earlier of me boiling an extra set to straighten them. While that technically worked, it also left them with some stress damage. To try and fix that I sanded away a lot of material on both sides with 180 sandpaper, then 600, 1200 and 2000, leaving an evenly frosted surface. Acrylic polish is expensive, but somewhere online recommended whitening toothpaste, and that worked extremely well. (If it's still too scratched up after polishing, go back a step or two). I spent two days on this because this is my first time trying to fix clear parts, and the result is absolutely not perfect, but I've now got a pair of rear windows I can use. Unfortunately the right one had a stress mark too deep to fix and it also doesn't completely fit in the frame so I had to cut the top off. It will be cold in the winter, but I'm sure the tiny people inside will appreciate it in the summer.

Forgot the before photo. This is after 600:
http://i.imgur.com/pm2BUKGl.jpg (https://imgur.com/pm2BUKG)

Left: 2000, Right: toothpaste.
http://i.imgur.com/d0i8XGTl.jpg (https://imgur.com/d0i8XGT)

Rear windows on the left, original front window on the right.
http://i.imgur.com/KbmhOmUl.jpg (https://imgur.com/KbmhOmU)

[Wombii]

Trust nothing, test everything, and even if you tested it, something will ruin your day anyway. A pen I used to draw up the door panel lines is now bleeding into the final coat of glossy clear. Even the red Tamiya paint is bleeding a bit because I went way too heavy on the clear trying to get a smooth finish.
http://i.imgur.com/gRQRiBzl.jpg (https://imgur.com/gRQRiBz)

To be clear for the accident report: The pen lines are bleeding because I didn't test it with the clear coat. The red is bleeding because I significantly overdosed it with solvents from the clear coat.

[Wombii]

Looks like the ink floated to the top of the clear coat, so most of it could be removed with light sanding. The red paint is deeper, so I might have to live with that small flaw.

Mirror mounted reverse lights (?)
Warm white 3528 LED glued to transparent plastic inserted into a 6.3mm outside width square styrene tube. Inside filled with more glue and a 2mm thick piece of styrene glued to the back. Mounted to the mirror with a piece of a paper clip. The wires are harvested from a broken HDMI cable. They're very thin, feels like about half the size of the 28awg wire I've used for the other lights, and I'm not sure if I'll be able to crimp connectors to them.

http://i.imgur.com/fZskpC9l.jpg (https://imgur.com/fZskpC9)

http://i.imgur.com/w3ip9fFl.jpg (https://imgur.com/w3ip9fF)

http://i.imgur.com/kwH4vBCl.jpg (https://imgur.com/kwH4vBC)

[egronvold]

The level of detail and patience...

[Wombii]

My patience got tested today when I had wired everything up and mounted the cab and then realized I had to disassemble everything again because I crossed the connectors for the cab dome lights :)

Milestone: All cab lights wired up for the first time.

Connections for cab dome lights and visor lights.
http://i.imgur.com/eW2iaDdl.jpg (https://imgur.com/eW2iaDd)

http://i.imgur.com/Qt5v55El.jpg (https://imgur.com/Qt5v55E)

Sure, I could cut the wires shorter, but then I wouldn't actually be able to get my hand in under the cab to connect them.
http://i.imgur.com/SPNR4i5l.jpg (https://imgur.com/SPNR4i5)

It works! Does it look okay with the rear side window rolled down a bit? Should I cut it down lower?
http://i.imgur.com/2zuKDnal.jpg (https://imgur.com/2zuKDna)

[egronvold]

Looking good! Wait with the cut until you have place the «people» inside. Then you can better decide.

[Wombii]

You're right. If I find or make some good looking people, I might want one of them to lean an elbow on the window, so I could cut it a bit more then.

Minor update.
Did a very rough trimming of the inner rear rims and painted them black so they look more like brake drums.

http://i.imgur.com/pnL9dh7l.jpg (https://imgur.com/pnL9dh7)
http://i.imgur.com/r1cn1bal.jpg (https://imgur.com/r1cn1ba)

[Wombii]

Some clips from the first test of the roof monitor and pump mounted on the truck. Seems to be sucking air somewhere, possibly the filter on the supply side. Nozzle also needs some work.
The pump is currently drinking about 2.5 liters per minute.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fGMQzeoWdYY

edit: if you're as easily entertained by flashing lights as I am, here's a minute of flashing blue lights:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q4rnpqTKm18

[egronvold]

Happy to see you’re ready for the last part of the fire season;)

[skeeter]

Hopefully it's an easy fix getting the air leak repaired, & we can see some RC fire fighting action videos soon.

[Wombii]

Working on the water tank. It's made from 1mm styrene and comfortably holds about a half gallon / 2 liters of water. The bottom is sloped to help the last bits of water find its way to the pump.

http://i.imgur.com/5CE0hEcl.jpg (https://imgur.com/5CE0hEc)

I want a large opening for maintenance access. Using a 2mm plate for the lid. I hope I'll be able to make it somewhat water tight.

http://i.imgur.com/unq5WoFl.jpg (https://imgur.com/unq5WoF)

The water level sensor drops down through a hole in the top. 5 wires connected directly to an arduino with its pins configured as INPUT_PULLUP. When the water reaches a powered sense wire a connection is made to ground and the arduino does whatever it needs to do.

http://i.imgur.com/xYoOxhnl.jpg (https://imgur.com/xYoOxhn)

http://i.imgur.com/zhpoR5hl.jpg (https://imgur.com/zhpoR5h)

Here it is in the truck. The plan is to add another tube to the top that will let air in and out, and a tube somewhere for the fill/drain pump.

http://i.imgur.com/oPlnMfol.jpg (https://imgur.com/oPlnMfo)

Video of sensor, tank level lights and telemetry:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VphOW5oXx9A

[Wombii]

Got the red stripe painted and have started test printing some decals.

http://i.imgur.com/o3aYJCwl.jpg (https://imgur.com/o3aYJCw)

[kaptain Jack]

How do you print decals?
Tnx

[Wombii]

Sorry, I should have been more precise. I've just printed them on normal paper after making and scaling them with photoshop and illustrator. When I'm happy with them my plan is to either use printable water slide decal paper at home or have someone cut them out of vinyl for me. I have two local companies that does signs and car graphics, so I can check with them how small they can make the details.

[skeeter]

How do you print decals?
Tnx

I as well would LOVE to learn how to do this!

[Wombii]

The quote I got for making the decals was about 100$ more than I expected, so there's a chance I might have a go at making them myself.

Meanwhile:
Chest for the roof. Started by making a small table out of 2mm styrene, then wrapped it in Plastruct styrene tread plate. It doesn't open, but it's hollow so it can slide over the water tubing sticking out of the roof.
http://i.imgur.com/eDe0Adol.jpg (https://imgur.com/eDe0Ado)

http://i.imgur.com/a9pPE1fl.jpg (https://imgur.com/a9pPE1f)

Started making the ladder. I was going to use precut strips for the sides and rod for the steps until I realised the total length of just the steps are more than 6 feet. Now I'm cutting strips out of 1mm styrene instead. The sides are 1x4x300mm + 2 pieces 1x2x300mm. Steps are 2 pieces of 1x3mm in 30, 36, 41, 36 mm lengths. Ladder itself is 3 elements and it rests on another element that is mounted to the roof and slides+tilts down to ground level.
http://i.imgur.com/SKDGuJYl.jpg (https://imgur.com/SKDGuJY)

[skeeter]

$100.oo for decals, OUCH!

100ft of plastic is a LOT too!

[Wombii]

$100.oo for decals, OUCH!


No, I said $100 *more*. It was actually close to $200 for a decal sheet around A4/letter size (large elements cut from black vinyl and small printed on clear vinyl).

I've just ordered 3 sheets of 20x25 cm size filled with text and logos printed on clear vinyl for $30 from stickerapp.com . I'll have to cut them out myself and I don't know how thick or invisible the clear vinyl is, but I'll make sure to update when I get them. Another alternative is printable waterslide decals, but I feel those need another layer of clear coat to protect them, and I don't want to risk messing up anything else right now.

[agriRC]

:jaw: Skills here are incredible. Matching bodywork and curves like this is amazing!

[Wombii]

Thank you!

Ladder progress. I'm not sure how the pulley system works on the real one, so I don't know if I'll make it functional or just glue everything together.

http://i.imgur.com/4nsaL0Vl.jpg (https://imgur.com/4nsaL0V)

http://i.imgur.com/lQ2UbOtl.jpg (https://imgur.com/lQ2UbOt)

I think I finally found the perfect water tubing for the monitor. 3mm ID, 5mm OD, 1mm wall thickness black silicone tubing. I tried 0.5mm wall thickness too, but that was way too thin and would kink at almost any bend radius. This one doesn't kink but is still very flexible and won't stress the servos.

http://i.imgur.com/g8hMHz6l.jpg (https://imgur.com/g8hMHz6)

[frizzen]

Glad to hear it works right, and the black monitor tubing looks good on there. What use was it originally intended to have?

It's come this far, got to make the extension ladder work...
I'm assuming ground ladders? Is that like a single 3-fly ladder with a support base, or a pair of 1-fly ladders?

[Wombii]

It's apparently nitro fuel tubing, although I've never seen anyone use black fuel line in an rc car, and I've never seen these dimensions. https://www.ebay.com/itm/401073783505

As far as I can tell, it's one ladder with 3 sections. Some kind of pulley system mounted to the side, a pair of spiked feet that digs into the ground and a pair of long support legs that can fold out from the sides. A short section is mounted to the truck and can tilt up. The final section seems to be mounted to the tilting bit and can slide out and down towards the ground. I think the ladder is then just strapped to this sliding section.

I'm having trouble finding reference material of it in use, but here's one image.(Image of aftermath of house fire, noone physically harmed)https://www.folkebladet.no/nyheter/article7327821.ece/ALTERNATES/w980-default/Brann%20leilighetskompleks%20Olsborg

Better image of the truck mounted section extended, and a video that I just now discovered of that part being retracted by a firefighter: https://www.sa.no/varteig/nyhet/matte-kalle-inn-hjelp-fra-bade-borregaard-og-flyplassen/s/5-46-50230

[Wombii]

Finally found the ladder. Wibe NOR-BAS. Here's a spare parts pdf with good drawings of the ladder and pulley system. Maybe there's hope of figuring it out now.
http://www.wibeladders.no/globalassets/wibe-ladders-new/documents/product-information/2015-reservdelslista-spare-parts-list.pdf

Edit: and here's even a video demonstrating how to use it. I love how you can look for something for months on the internet with no luck, and then suddenly you find that golden clue and everything turns up.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=LrFnRqdL4rU

[Wombii]

Got started on the pulley system. Still not sure if it will actually work, as there will probably be too much friction in those tiny pieces. And I'm 99% certain that the rope actually passes through one of the steps to go from the right to the left side at one point, so I might have to simplify that.
It's also one of those fun situations again where I can't paint it until it's finished, but I can't disassemble it to paint it after it's done because of interlocking pieces.

http://i.imgur.com/auWFZ9ol.jpg (https://imgur.com/auWFZ9o)

http://i.imgur.com/JBzB75Il.jpg (https://imgur.com/JBzB75I)

[Wombii]

A lot of friction, but it's working!
https://youtu.be/u6E1-i7fYuM

The people who designed this ladder are a lot smarter than me. The pulley system for the bottom/middle section has a 2:1 reduction ratio with no loose rope ends. It starts attached to the lower left of the middle section, then loops through a pulley on the upper end of the bottom section, goes down to a pulley on step 2 of the middle section, through the step to the right side, through a pulley there and up to a pulley on the top of the bottom section. Then down to a double pulley on step one of the bottom section, up to a pulley on step 2 of the middle section and back down to the double pulley on step 1 of the bottom section before it ends attached to the middle section right side. Simple, right?

[frizzen]

Now it's back to the "how did he do that" level of awesome! The ladder reeving sounds like a headache to set up. I used a razor perpendicular to the work to adjust some sticking points on the FWD extension ladder, but it's much simpler...

If you say the ladder were to have been powder coated aluminum, it wouldn't need painted.

[Wombii]

Got the ladder smoothed out a bit, so it's actually not too bad now. Currently working on the part that's mounted to the roof.

Got the stickers from Stickerapp (http://www.stickerapp.com). I expected it to be printed in the US, but I'm not actually sure where they're from. I ordered them from the Scandinavian version of the web store (stickerapp.no). I got a shipping notification from USPS with a tracking number after a few days, but the tracking info only shows that a shipping label was made. Turns out that the very same day they actually arrived at my local post office in what seems like a Norwegian cardboard envelope with a different tracking number.

Quality seems very good. They're printed as a single large sticker on clear vinyl like the Tamiya decals. Neither my vernier caliper nor my digital caliper can tell a difference in thickness (0.1mm), but the Tamiya decals are much more stretchy and somehow feels thinner. The clear vinyl in the Tamiya decals are maybe a very tiny bit more clear, but it's on the order of 97% vs 99% transparency. Print quality is very good. Blacks look about 5% lighter than the Tamiya ones. Colors look like I expected. Most importantly, the size is pretty much exactly as ordered.

What I did to make them: I measured the size of the decals on the truck and on photos. I used Illustrator and made the text and numbers with the type tool, imported logos found on the internet, traced them if they weren't in vector format and modified them if they were not accurate (like adding "austria" to the Rosenbauer logo). I made the artboard 20x25 cm and added a thin border around everything to help mark the exact size. When I was happy with everything I used the stickerapp web store, selected a custom 20x25 size, imported the illustrator file and resized it so the border matched the template.

For info, 3 identical sheets cost me about 30 USD shipped.

http://i.imgur.com/m3HRoPOl.jpg (https://imgur.com/m3HRoPO)

Quality example: The smaller of the computer thingy is 14mm wide. The smallest visible text near the knife "BRANNTEKNIKK AS" is 0.7mm tall and looks good.
http://i.imgur.com/1mBFezul.jpg (https://imgur.com/1mBFezu)

The Rosenbauer logo is from stickerapp. The Tamiya logo on the right is from the Tamiya decal sheet.
http://i.imgur.com/Ew5ta1rl.jpg (https://imgur.com/Ew5ta1r)

Tried cutting away the clear vinyl around the text.
http://i.imgur.com/VqetWjtl.jpg (https://imgur.com/VqetWjt)

Used a weak masking tape as transfer tape. This is my first time trying this.
http://i.imgur.com/DNYcVGfl.jpg (https://imgur.com/DNYcVGf)

http://i.imgur.com/3PK1yu2l.jpg (https://imgur.com/3PK1yu2)

Applied to the truck on the second attempt (Had to scrape off 3 letters very carefully and reattach to the tape after I accidentally touched it to the surface. It's almost straight!
http://i.imgur.com/mcTL44Zl.jpg (https://imgur.com/mcTL44Z)

Air force bird logo.
http://i.imgur.com/0rLzvAPl.jpg (https://imgur.com/0rLzvAP)

[egronvold]

Looking good!

[Wombii]

Finished the top of the light mast. Plastruct diamond tread plate on top. Front part of the lamps: Sanded lexan as glass surrounded by 0.5mm styrene strips with 24AWG wire as bars. Painted with primer -> gloss black -> TS-17.

http://i.imgur.com/1j78jrjl.jpg (https://imgur.com/1j78jrj)

http://i.imgur.com/4cc795bl.jpg (https://imgur.com/4cc795b)

[Wombii]

The light mast and ladder both ended up a bit too wide, so I've very carefully cut out some support pieces to shrink the light mounts. I'm very happy with how the paint finish ended up on these.

http://i.imgur.com/8eF0Eq5l.jpg (https://imgur.com/8eF0Eq5)

http://i.imgur.com/wXfPM6yl.jpg (https://imgur.com/wXfPM6y)

Made a joystick and control panel for the cab interior.


http://i.imgur.com/5PDtqHol.jpg (https://imgur.com/5PDtqHo)

http://i.imgur.com/yBr3Lx1l.jpg (https://imgur.com/yBr3Lx1)

The control panel / display is a box with a 3528 LED with a transparent plastic piece and reflective tape to spread out the light, and a sticker on the front.

http://i.imgur.com/FZmIWXbl.jpg (https://imgur.com/FZmIWXb)

The joystick paint doesn't look super clean in this shot, but it's tiny and looks fine in real life. For reference, the control panel is 14mm wide and the widest part of the joystick is about 5mm.
http://i.imgur.com/VdusJK6l.jpg (https://imgur.com/VdusJK6)

[frizzen]

The light mast looked good, but that remote station for the cannon is absolutely killer!!!

[liddy102]

Very nice
Great job.

[Wombii]

It's a bit rough, but I don't think I'll dive deeper into the details than this. Obviously missing a steering wheel and gear lever.

I'm no expert, but I believe the main joystick has all the relevant controls for the big monitor on the roof. The small stick would be the small monitor on the winch platform? The display / control panel shows info about and controls all the added functions on the truck, like emergency lights, flood lights, siren, pump, tank levels, and so on. In addition to that there would be a portable remote control for the winch and optional jet fighter rescue platform (which this truck does not have), which I have yet to model.

http://i.imgur.com/pE9bS6nl.jpg (https://imgur.com/pE9bS6n)

[Wombii]

http://i.imgur.com/KXmrdQkl.jpg (https://imgur.com/KXmrdQk)

The dash panel sticker is mounted on a 0.5mm styrene plate which diffuses the light nicely, but that unfortunately means the turn signal indicators look lit even when off. Will have to fix that. The switches are painted with liquid chrome and white paint, but the next build I'll definitely add light boxes to the whole panel after seeing how good the hazard light switch accidentally looks as it's right on the border of the backlight for the gauge panel.
http://i.imgur.com/MWqDcA0l.jpg (https://imgur.com/MWqDcA0)

[Wombii]

I've been looking for wheel hubs for the rear wheels, but never found a good match. Turns out the truck has reduction hubs, with planetary gearing inside, and that's why they're so big.
https://www.scania.com/group/en/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2015/09/74676_highres_jpg-highres-033241.jpg

I've also been looking for a better match with the wheels. I believe Tamiya's rear wheels are made to match the front wheels of the American trucks like the King Hauler, and after some research I believe those are modeled after 24.5 inch wheels with a 285.75 mm bolt circle. That means the scaled down bolt circle is very tiny compared to the European style 22.5 inch wheels with a 335 mm bolt circle that I'm using for front wheels.

The real fire truck uses 20 inch wheels, so the perfect scale version would probably use 1.55 rims, but I'm not going to get custom wheels 3d printed and cut down the tires. What I will try is to do some basic modifications to the Tamiya rims. I've mocked up a couple of different sizes of the hub to find a good looking compromise between what's actual scale and what looks scale.

http://i.imgur.com/ATKoELil.jpg (https://imgur.com/ATKoELi)


(And for reference from the first page: )
http://i.imgur.com/ctpy2rFl.jpg (https://imgur.com/ctpy2rF)

edit:
I think this will work

http://i.imgur.com/uL2f6PNl.jpg (https://imgur.com/uL2f6PN)

http://i.imgur.com/u4E3Za0l.jpg (https://imgur.com/u4E3Za0)

[egronvold]

An eye for details :)

[Wombii]

I've spent a lot of time playing around with building a sound unit, so there hasn't been a lot of updates to the build. I never planned to use a proper sound kit, because I was never convinced they sounded good enough to be worth the price, so I didn't design a space for it in the truck. This winter I found an open source engine sound project, using an ESP32 microcontroller to play multiple sounds together with the engine sound. It's also in control of the ESC signal, so the truck has a simulated inertia, with slow acceleration and coasting.

I liked it better than the TBS/Dasmikro/Benedini micro sound unit out of the box, so I started to play around with modifying it to my use. I've now coded in an approximation of an Allison automatic gearbox, so it sounds like it's changing gears, and I've added recordings of two Norwegian sirens (a fast one and a slow one).

Because it's now in control of the ESC, I was also able to code in a function that lets me switch between reverse and forward mode with a separate transmitter switch, while keeping the brake function of the ESC. It works by sending a "double tap" of backwards input to enable reverse mode, and staying in backwards range when the switch is flipped, and makes sure to blip the throttle in normal mode when coming off the brake, to ensure it doesn't accidentally enter reverse mode when it shouldn't.

This is what it currently sounds like:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9ex9XDmr8_Q&

Short test drive:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qc6XIntvkuc


Youtube channel of the original author of the project:
https://www.youtube.com/user/TheDIYGuy999
And the original code:
https://github.com/TheDIYGuy999/Rc_Engine_Sound_ESP32

My poorly documented and highly specialized fork of the code, for anyone curious:
https://github.com/Wombii/Rc_Engine_Sound_ESP32

I managed to squeeze the controller and amplifier under the rear bench in the cab. The amplifier has a volume pot sticking out under the cab floor. Well hidden, but usable without opening the cab.

http://i.imgur.com/jm3lue2l.jpg (https://imgur.com/jm3lue2)

I also made a custom telemetry screen for the transmitter. Here's a shot of that, with an overview of my control layout.

http://i.imgur.com/lDhw4zWl.jpg (https://imgur.com/lDhw4zW)


After some digging, I was able to find the correct SCBA fixtures / rear seating. Here's a nice reference pdf from Rosenbauer:
https://www.rosenbauer.com/fileadmin/sharepoint/products/stowagesystems/comfort/Dokumente/Prospekte/SCBA_fixtures.pdf


1mm + 2mm styrene sheet with the Tamiya seat as size reference:

http://i.imgur.com/HCxeRxYl.jpg (https://imgur.com/HCxeRxY)

http://i.imgur.com/HCEv17jl.jpg (https://imgur.com/HCEv17j)

Mounted using magnets and shims

http://i.imgur.com/B6dn42Yl.jpg (https://imgur.com/B6dn42Y)

http://i.imgur.com/MvrWkzhl.jpg (https://imgur.com/MvrWkzh)


Most of the interior is now painted. Still needed are some hand rails, door panels and rear bench. Very happy with how much the locker box between the front seats looks like painted metal. I painted the seats with a brush because I wanted a slightly worn look, but I went a bit too rough, so I might have to do another coat.

http://i.imgur.com/4Kj2OfXl.jpg (https://imgur.com/4Kj2OfX)

http://i.imgur.com/51hNNurl.jpg (https://imgur.com/51hNNur)


Warm white cab dome lights when ignition is off

http://i.imgur.com/iu5Lsrpl.jpg (https://imgur.com/iu5Lsrp)

http://i.imgur.com/14pPJiCl.jpg (https://imgur.com/14pPJiC)

http://i.imgur.com/5lvSRmal.jpg (https://imgur.com/5lvSRma)

Low intensity red lighting when ignition is on

http://i.imgur.com/xI4vNb6l.jpg (https://imgur.com/xI4vNb6)

[Wombii]

One step (or bench) closer

http://i.imgur.com/Lqd5aEPl.jpg (https://imgur.com/Lqd5aEP)

[Wombii]

Some more wheel hubs. Rear:
http://i.imgur.com/k4FRmbIl.jpg (https://imgur.com/k4FRmbI)
http://i.imgur.com/XjPzohll.jpg (https://imgur.com/XjPzohl)

Front:
http://i.imgur.com/zjqYgVRl.jpg (https://imgur.com/zjqYgVR)
http://i.imgur.com/ZUivwljl.jpg (https://imgur.com/ZUivwlj)
http://i.imgur.com/b7WXCwol.jpg (https://imgur.com/b7WXCwo)

I made them so they screw onto the end of the center axle bolt, to cover the wheelnut, but if you're smarter than me you will of course know that the bolt and nut on the non-driven front axle doesn't actually rotate with the wheel, so I might have to find a low tack glue and stick them to the rim instead.

I've been trying to come up with a simple way to add baffles to the water tank without ripping it apart, and I spotted some spare separators from some component / assortment boxes. Perfect fit, can be assembled inside the tank and are easily removed for maintenance.
Video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m6BDHUII7Jo

Bonus picture. It's odd how small details change the whole truck. The black wheel hubs helps a lot with making it look heavier, and makes the wheels look less like plastic:
http://i.imgur.com/ZOqYhXLl.jpg (https://imgur.com/ZOqYhXL)

[kaptain Jack]

Spectacular !

[Wombii]

Exhaust pipe. Styrene tube with Tamiya primer, then a smooth coat of Motip gloss black as base for the silver. Top third is then sprayed with Tamiya TS-85 Rubber Black and the bottom half a light dusting of TS-30 Silver leaf. I'm starting to see that I would really like an airbrush instead of spray cans for my next build.

http://i.imgur.com/iDamQXFl.jpg (https://imgur.com/iDamQXF)

http://i.imgur.com/fcfxxHal.jpg (https://imgur.com/fcfxxHa)

I've also started on some shackles for the rear end. Yes, scale shackles are cheap on ebay, but it's hard to find accurate measurements for most, and it's fun to try and make stuff even though I'm finding I don't have the patience for doing metalwork properly.

http://i.imgur.com/hmVO5o3l.jpg (https://imgur.com/hmVO5o3)

http://i.imgur.com/ML6v5ujl.jpg (https://imgur.com/ML6v5uj)

http://i.imgur.com/M2C2n8ol.jpg (https://imgur.com/M2C2n8o)

[egronvold]

Your patience is top tier :D

[skeeter]

You've got more patience than you give yourself credit for! It is extremely difficult to make a matching set of shackles.

[Wombii]

Tank internals. The black stuff around the edge is a thin rubber or silicone sheet with adhesive backing.

http://i.imgur.com/eBCs2FAl.jpg (https://imgur.com/eBCs2FA)


I wanted a way to access the tank without removing the roof plate so I stole a screw top off a juice or milk carton and made some holes.

http://i.imgur.com/rpnvCQOl.jpg (https://imgur.com/rpnvCQO)


Hot glued on the inside of the tank lid.

http://i.imgur.com/28AfnZPl.jpg (https://imgur.com/28AfnZP)


Very low profile, but just enough grip to unscrew it.

http://i.imgur.com/agReRZGl.jpg (https://imgur.com/agReRZG)


It will be hidden below one of the tank inspection hatches.

http://i.imgur.com/KHCbjtvl.jpg (https://imgur.com/KHCbjtv)

I had to do a lot of guesstimation as I don't have any good direct reference shots, but the end result is passable from a distance. (Top left is the model, the rest are all the reference material I have.

http://i.imgur.com/yI9vGPql.jpg (https://imgur.com/yI9vGPq)

[Wombii]

Blind spot mirrors and front work light. The work light seems to be mounted on the sun visor on most Norwegian fire trucks, but looks like it's mounted on a plate sticking out from the roof platform on the RNoAF one. This is the only non-functional light on the model because when I planned this out I didn't actually know that it was a light. Carved and sanded from a few layers of styrene. The reflective part is from a roll of a sort of self-adhesive home interior vinyl (d-c-fix) that will last me several life times at this rate.

http://i.imgur.com/Nn5L6nnl.jpg (https://imgur.com/Nn5L6nn)

http://i.imgur.com/mB9kWg4l.jpg (https://imgur.com/mB9kWg4)

http://i.imgur.com/LUX5MHPl.jpg (https://imgur.com/LUX5MHP)

[Wombii]

Emergency stop button for winch/hydraulic rescue platform if mounted and activation switch for remote controls.

http://i.imgur.com/qHWWJE9l.jpg (https://imgur.com/qHWWJE9)

http://i.imgur.com/NJ4nPyel.jpg (https://imgur.com/NJ4nPye)


Driver's side external start button. The driver can hit this button while getting dressed and jump into a ready to run truck.

http://i.imgur.com/cJHBJL2l.jpg (https://imgur.com/cJHBJL2)

[jerry56]

Such attention to detail, I don't even know how you even handle something that small. I like your reflective material, I tried something like that with some silver mylar ( actually a poptart wrapper) the first attempt didn't work so well I'll probably try it again at some point.
Very impressive truck..!!

[Tgrzes]

Amazing detail throughout! Is all your diamond plate painted styrene?

[Wombii]

Yes, it's all styrene. I don't have the patience or equipment for metalwork. Plastruct 1:16 scale diamond plate number 91683 to be exact. The other styrene is Evergreen.

[Tgrzes]

Can I also ask what kind of battery setup you have and what kind of run time you get approximately? I picked up a cheap pair of 7.2V 3600mah NIMH batteries to get me through build and testing, but I have no idea whether one will be sufficient or if I’ll need a second battery for the pump, solenoid valves and lights. I assume I could get to it using some math, but I’m just looking for a rough idea so I can plan for battery space.

[Wombii]

I did the planning for a NIMH, but because of the specific mix of electronics I ended up with, I went with a 2s Lipo pack (Standard r/c car hardshell pack, same size as the NIMH stick but rectangular). 7,4v 5000mAh, I think. I ran into some edge case issues because the NIMH pack will start out around 7,8 and discharge down towards 6v and give issues with some of my voltage regulators. The Lipo starts at 8,4 and stays above 7v during its useful range.

Will the solenoids work at 7.2v? I also hope you describe your plumbing in details, including where to find the tubing, valves and connection hardware if you're going that route, as I chickened out and went with tank -> pump -> monitor and an option for a second pump for filling the tank.

If you go with Lipo, there are many sizes to choose from, and even the hardshell racing packs come in a compact "shorty" version.

With regards to runtime, I haven't actually been running it enough to give a good answer. I'd guess 30-80 minutes of real playtime based on prior experience with other cars. I can easily do short test runs and long light/sound testing sessions several times in a week without charging.
Guesstimation factors: 3500 mAh NIMH would give me just under an hour of runtime in a Tamiya m-03 with some lights and with a CC-01.
My LEDs theoretically draw ~740mA. Arduinos + receiver + sound is roughly the same. I think the pump was around 2A last time I checked, but it drains the tank in a minute or so and won't affect runtime much.

If I were to plan it out all over again, I might consider going 3s for something closer to 12v to get some extra power to the 12v pump. That way I could also go with a smaller pump instead of running an oversized 12v pump on 7-8v. I'm also using a boost circuit to boost the battery voltage to 9v for some of the LEDs to allow wiring them in series where the space is extra tight and could avoid that with an extra battery cell.

I don't think I've uploaded a diagram for my power setup yet.
I've set it up so I can use two power sources: An R/C battery pack for everything or a USB port for low power lights only (display mode).
The battery wires split through switches into 3 main branches: pump (esc), drive (esc) and electronics. The drive ESC has an onboard BEC supplying steering + gear servo.
The electronics branch split into:
A: BEC (vBatt->6v for servo and lights).
B: Boost (vBatt->9.5v for high power LEDs)
C: vBatt into Arduino mega (onboard 5v regulator)
D: vBatt into Arduino nano (onboard 5v regulator)
E: sound (vBatt -> 3.3v for sound amplifier board and ESP32)

Most of the LEDs are on a separate voltage bus that I call vLED. This bus can be connected to either the BEC for 6v operation on battery or to USB power for 5v display mode through a switch.

[Tgrzes]

Wow! Great info. I have a lot to think about! The pump I have is rated 6 - 12v and the solenoid valves are 3.5-24v. Both seem to be working fine with the 7.2v battery.

I have some windshield wiper tubing that I’ve been using during tests, but I’m going to see if I can get some of the tubing you recommended for the monitor. I picked up 6mm ID x 12mm OD black silicone tube; it’s a perfect scale match for the 6” hard suction that we use for drafting. I originally didn’t think of filling the tank thru the pump, but now that you’ve mentioned it, I think I’ll include another solenoid valve for tank fill while drafting. I’ll post plumbing details in my thread when I get to that part of the build. Thanks again for all the electrical info!

[Wombii]

6x12mm silicone tube is what was included with my main pump. I'm also using some of that for the same purpose. It's very stiff, but I inserted a bent large paperclip to force it to bend the right angle when stored on the top of the tank.

Block diagrams for power wiring below. I don't know how much sense it makes to anyone else. You may have to download the full size version to read anything.
https://i.imgur.com/THFX3gU.png <-full size
http://i.imgur.com/THFX3gUl.png (https://imgur.com/THFX3gU)

One of the most important thing to plan out with a complicated electronics setup is the negative/ground wiring. I have frequently had to rethink and review the diagrams to avoid ground loops or accidentally sending motor currents through signal wires. I've tried as much as possible to send all ground paths in a star pattern back to central points closely connected to the battery.
For example, one critical point is the signal path that sends the SBUS signal from the receiver to the Arduino mega. To ensure that the difference between ground and signal voltage is the same at both places, one might usually directly connect the ground between the two components, but that's risky when they have different power sources. For the final design the signal goes from receiver to esp32 to arduino mega. The ground path goes back to the ESC, through the battery wires to the central distribution board and then to the arduino mega. Including a ground wire with the signal wire could send several amps of servo current through the ground traces on the arduino mega itself, or even motor currents, at best raising the voltage on the ground traces, at worst burning the arduino.

I still feel doing a master battery switch was correct, but now I would have placed a switch on the "drive" branch too, so I could disconnect the motor while testing. A switch on the pump seemed like a good idea to avoid water accidents and the idea behind the switch on the electronics branch was so I could disconnect it while developing the arduino stuff. Of course with the arduino stuff mostly done long before the truck was driveable, that switch is quite useless now.

[Tgrzes]

More great info - thanks! I’ve been thinking along the same lines for power distribution and master switches. I’d like to learn Arduino some day, but for my build, I’ll be going old school mechanical switches on servos (except for the drive ESC).

[Tgrzes]

Just curious...do you have more work planned for this truck?

[Wombii]

It's definitely not done. There is still a long list of exterior and interior details, maybe some waterproofing, some structural fixes.

[Tgrzes]

I was looking thru your pictures again, specifically ones where you're hiding stuff like switches and pumps in compartments. I was just wondering how the doors to those compartments articulate and how you keep them closed. I'm not at that point yet, but I've started thinking about how to possibly handle it. I was thinking of maybe using very small magnets.

[Wombii]

The only compartments that are actually articulated are the lower rear switch boxes as seen at the bottom of post #2 and #44. I made a reasonably scale accurate but simple hinge with styrene and 2mm brass tube. Keeping them closed was an issue. Friction fit is an option, but in the end I went with tiny magnets and an M2 metal washer in a corner of the door.
The lower side plates (and the rear wheel arches) for the center/tank module are long plates attached with cube magnets. I suggest 1 cube magnet + 1 screw per corner, as that makes it adjustable.
The shutter doors for the front/pump module are pretty much plastic sheets attached with cube magnets in a way that lets me push the top to flip up the bottom (small piece of plastic tube in the middle to force the plate to rotate around the center).
The Rear shutters are not designed to open, but they are slotted in so they're removable after taking off the rear module for maintenance.
You might find that the magnets are strong enough to crack the glue and snap off if you let them slap together, so something softer than CA glue is advised.

edit: I'm using 4 or 5mm neodymium cube magnets. They're very strong, small enough to fit and large enough to not lose track of them. I'd love to use smaller cubes, but the thought of handling those tiny things without losing a couple in my eye or something honestly scares me. There's also an issue of pets or kids accidentally eating them if they fall off. I also have a variety of small neodymium disc magnets for other places like the interior ceiling.

[Tgrzes]

The pivoting door was one I wanted to test, so I'm definitely glad to hear it was something you used. Seems simple to construct and adjust. Yesterday while working at my desk, I pulled apart a retractable pen and started playing around with the push button mechanism, lol. I think something could be done with it and it would be a nice feature, but ultimately too much trouble. The info on the magnets will also save me some trial and error. Thanks for the great info again!!