My first Tonka Conversion

[jerry56]

Ok I know this isn't a new concept, Small Haul, RVJIMD, Frizzen and a host of others have been doing them for more than 10 years. I'm new to RC and really like the concept and I have used ideas from these builders, So here is my take.
First cost was a major concern, I wanted these to be budget friendly and build-able with basic tools. I don't have a lathe or milling machine or a great deal of skill....I have an old benchtop drillpress, a cheap benchtop bandsaw and a cheap benchtop disk/belt sander..and years in building models and 1/32 slot cars...
I used the parts from WPL some are decent (so far) and some ..not so much....
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49439132791_7bfbc1ac0d_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2ijLtKe)239_0011 (https://flic.kr/p/2ijLtKe) by Jerry Mersing (https://www.flickr.com/photos/182218191@N05/), on Flickr

[jerry56]

This first shot is the basic frame of a WPL 4X4 I narrowed the tires to make the duals and modified the front tray to fit the motor.
This is a stock gear reduction motor from WPL....a little on the slow side and not a lot of torque. The frame is the stock WPL these ain't so great...sturdy enough for me to start with but the rails themselves are to narrow....after I figure out the basics I will probably go back and rebuild this one
The axles are the metal upgrade and seem pretty good but really I have no idea how they will hold up, only time will tell.
The linear actuator is a servo city 33rpm gear motor with a 1/4 Black and Decker masonry bit ($2.97) from Walmart I cut it down with a dremel. It will tip a 5lbs weight so it seems to work pretty good the bit moves the slide one inch per revolution so it moves pretty quick.

[jerry56]

here is another view, I didn't want to cut the cab but because of the length of the actuator and motor I couldn't see any other way..there just isn't a lot of room
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49438661678_bb1d1b6d96_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2ijJ4GA)239_0012 (https://flic.kr/p/2ijJ4GA) by Jerry Mersing (https://www.flickr.com/photos/182218191@N05/), on Flickr

[jerry56]

here is a blurry picture from the side
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49439360147_2b3aafa20d_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2ijMDka)239_0017 (https://flic.kr/p/2ijMDka) by Jerry Mersing (https://www.flickr.com/photos/182218191@N05/), on Flickr

[jerry56]

This is the WPL transfer case I replaced the stock gear motor with a 485rpm 20:1 servocity economy gear motor..but the out put shaft was a little long so I drill out a little head space in the transfer case, the walls of the case are pretty thick and I was able got get enough room to mount the new gear motor but it was still kind of underpowered.. So I used a 56rpm 171:1 gear motor and replaced the motor with a 25turn Traxass 7575 and it seems to have the torque and speed I wanted
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49439132886_6b22e5b0be_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2ijLtLS)239_0018 (https://flic.kr/p/2ijLtLS) by Jerry Mersing (https://www.flickr.com/photos/182218191@N05/), on Flickr

[jerry56]

Then I dropped the transfer case down about 1/2 inch because the drive shaft angles were way to steep for me and these are the metal WPL driveshafts
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49438661843_25b749848b_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2ijJ4Kr)239_0027 (https://flic.kr/p/2ijJ4Kr) by Jerry Mersing (https://www.flickr.com/photos/182218191@N05/), on Flickr

[jerry56]

I should have said this sooner but with the WPL the first thing you need to do is throw out the steering servo, receiver, and transmitter these are worthless.....
this is one of my unsolved problems. the funky steering linkage from the WPL ...it's not long enough and curves up at a weird angle...plus the tie rod isn't adjustable so any suggestions on what parts I can get to fix it would be appreciated...I don't know enough about RC suspensions and steering to know of a workable replacement.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49439132911_fbd992e1b4_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2ijLtMi)239_0025 (https://flic.kr/p/2ijLtMi) by Jerry Mersing (https://www.flickr.com/photos/182218191@N05/), on Flickr

[jerry56]

and as you can see this wasn't a collector grade toy....it was beat and well played with...Once the weather warms back up I will probably sandblast it and repaint it....
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49439132966_fd41bf85b3_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2ijLtNf)239_0029 (https://flic.kr/p/2ijLtNf) by Jerry Mersing (https://www.flickr.com/photos/182218191@N05/), on Flickr

[jerry56]

The other thing I can't figure out is a different wheel size..I know smallhaul uses the Lego tires but I have no way of making the wheels themselves. To me the WPL tires and wheels seem to big the OD is about 68mm I believe...and stock they are to wide...I've cut all mine down (there are tons of YouTube videos on how to do that) not the best but the tires are only $5 for a set of 4.

[jerry56]

I like the stance for the most part I would have liked the rear wheels a little farther back but I screwed up my first mounting holes for the bed and it didn't sit level so I had to move it up about a 1/4 inch...hence the reason I want to rebuild parts of it...well most of it.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49438661888_3218cfcbac_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2ijJ4Ld)239_0030 (https://flic.kr/p/2ijJ4Ld) by Jerry Mersing (https://www.flickr.com/photos/182218191@N05/), on Flickr

[jerry56]

The WPL stuff is a mixed bag...the electronics are junk IMHO, the frame rails are so-so but might be good for some light duty just for fun builds.
The tires are a tad wide for the Tonka builds and a tad tall (about 68mm) to me anyway..but because they are so cheap (about $5 for a set of 4) they will work for now..
the metal axle upgrades and the metal transfer case seem pretty good....the Axles are about 5 1/4 inches wide so they work good for the Tonka and I think they will look ok for my crane and with a little work my Bruder Mack Granite. but the tires will be a little small for that one I think.
But for now this is my dumptruck... I see a rebuild in the future now that I have figured out what drive motors and gearboxes work and what mini-econo gear motor works for the dump bed.. I really want to make the linear actuators work, I wanted to use N-20 motors but they just didn't have enough torque..I think part of the problem is because on the Tonkas the lift point is so far back and the actuator sits so flat it takes a lot to get it moving...If there were more room or I could figure out a way to get a better angle on it and or move the lift point forward I think they may work....we'll see.

[jerry56]

Lights are the next thing I need to figure out....head lights and tail lights I think I can get going...break lights and back-up lights I haven't figured out yet

[ddmckee54]

Jerry:

There's guys on this forum and others that are either working on the programming for Arduinos to run their lights, or have completed it. I'm working on a Bruder Manitou 2150 conversion on the MadModder forum where I'll be using an Arduino Nano to run my lights, didn't have any extra channels available.

I've got the lights bread-boarded to the Nano and I'm working on the code to monitor two RC channels, the speed/direction channel and the steering channel, to run these lights at the appropriate time: head-lights, tail-lights, back-up lights, brake lights, turn signals, work lights and safety flashers.

If you aren't stubborn like me, and don't need to write the code yourself just to prove you can do it, there are threads on this forum and other where the codes' already been written for you, all you need to do is copy it and use it. The Arduinos are cheap as chips, my Chinese clones cost me about $3-$4 apiece.

Don

[frizzen]

That's looking great. I probably wouldn't even touch the paint, it looks like an older tight jobsite / offroad work truck, they get dinged and scratched even being really careful. About all i'd probably do would be see if the grill would clean up.

That's a pretty slick way to do the bed actuator. I'm probably going to steal that idea...

There are some steering rod upgrade kits for wpl, or you can roll your own with turnbuckle parts and all-thread.

If it's able to tip a 5lb weight, i'd want to look into the leaf spring upgrades that use metal mounts, better springs, and have shackles.

I think the wheels look good, especially those duallies. It's not a street tread and has plenty of sidewall. The lego tires you mention are about the same height and width as wpl with a larger rim size. I think legos would only shave like 4-6 mm height from your setup. There are some 3d printable rims to go wpl hub to lego.

For your lighting, there are several plug&play options that go inline with ch 1&2 that can give headlight, tail light, turn, brake, rev. I think the light control system i'm running for the normal lights in my ambulance was about $15

[jerry56]

ddmckee54
I'll look into those...LOL I'm more than happy to use code already written...I'm not big into coding....
Frizzen
The actuator works way better than I hoped... with the masonry bit moving the actuator 1 inch per revolution you can use gear motor in the 20-30 RPM range and they have a lot of torque....and I have to give credit to RVJIMD it's the same basic set up he posted a year or so ago I just kind of went the next step...not sure exactly but I think I have less the $20 in it....
I tried the WPL steering up grad but the tie rod isn't adjustable and the angle of the steering rod makes it unusable...I'd like to use thread all and turnbuckles but I'm not sure what size to get....
I cut some helper springs from some lawnmower recoil springs and they helped a lot I'd like to do the shackle thing and I know you can use chain but again being new I don't know what size to get.

[jerry56]

As for the tires and wheels that 6mm would really help and I haven't decided if I'm going to invest in a 3D printer yet and I can't find the older style wheels for the WPL anymore...
Do you have a link for the plug and play options for the lights...
I have a flysky 6i and have downloaded the 10ch mod for it but haven't installed it yet going to look into the Arduino Nano too....

I think the grill will clean up I've worked on a couple small spots and I think with some work I can make it look pretty good.

[jerry56]

I think my next motor mod is to try a 25 turn 380 on a 171:1 gearbox the speed I have now is pretty good I think, I just need a little more torque...

[jerry56]

I found this one....does everything I was asking...for $50...nice but I'm looking for something a little more cost effective if I can find it...
https://www.killerrc.com/products/killer-light-kontroller-v3

This one is a little cheaper and also does everything I wanted it to do...still $40 but seems pretty compact
https://www.mytrickrc.com/shop/uf-7c-rc-lighting-controller/

[jerry56]

ddmckee54
wow... I looked at the Arduino Nano I like the concept but that sure is intimidating to a newbie to RC....

[frizzen]

One bad thing about these trucks is there isn't just 1 upgrade, there are many people selling upgrades and they ALL do it differently, often listed by someone who once knew a guy that spoke a little english. I bought 2 sets of 4-link rods for my van, and only about 10% of the hardware was the same

I'm not sure why most of the steering link upgrades use the short bent drag link instead of giving a longer connection between servo and far side knuckle, but there are a few that are adjustable on both. I'll try to grab some links

Springs
https://www.amazon.com/Upgrade-Lifting-Plate-Shock-Absorber/dp/B07MQ54NCP

Steering linkage rods
https://m.aliexpress.com/item/4000324765586.html?trace=wwwdetail2mobilesitedetai l

Lights
Look for that shape housing, set up this way. https://youtu.be/yxAp-muLabg

[jerry56]

I have a set of those springs coming.....eventually....
I got a set of that linkage but the drag link comes up at an angle and it hits the frame I can't see a way to make it work and the tie rod on the one they sent me isn't adjustable and it toes the front tires in really bad....that's why I was thinking of making my own just not sure what size "eyes" to get...

[ddmckee54]

Jerry:

The Arduinos aren't really that complicated. Some people write REALLY elegant code that can do anything, and it gets complicated. Others, like me, tend to write down and dirty, brute force, does one job, Neanderthal type code and that's actually pretty simple.

I had NEVER done any Arduino programming before, the biggest problem that I had was my Chinese clone Nanos use a different communication chip than the real Nanos use. It took me about a week of evenings to get things up an talking, but Google is your friend, and there is a boat-load of helpful information out there on the Interwebb.

One other thing you might want to think about in the future is using a 3D printer lead-screw and lead-nut instead of your masonary bit. Check out RC Modders,https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCX_3TdT3g8HEBJ79GSjpC7g CAT telehandler conversion, he shows how he did it. The 3D printer parts are fairly cheap and are very smooth in operation. I've got a couple of conversions in process that will use a variation of this for the rams. Crueby has a 340 CAT excavator conversion on this forum that also uses these leadscrews, check it out.

If you are a fan of steam, you might want to check out some of the rest of his work over on the Model Engine Maker website. Be ready to spend a while though there's a LOT of pages to go through. His Lombard model took a year or more to build and I think his Marion Shovel took a couple of years.

Don

[skeeter]

I found this one....does everything I was asking...for $50...nice but I'm looking for something a little more cost effective if I can find it...
https://www.killerrc.com/products/killer-light-kontroller-v3

This one is a little cheaper and also does everything I wanted it to do...still $40 but seems pretty compact
https://www.mytrickrc.com/shop/uf-7c-rc-lighting-controller/

IF you don't need it right NOW, & can wait for a VERY SLOW boat from China, Aliexpress
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32974073022.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.160f7ae 1jfTqNO&algo_pvid=e4d5a41e-cb26-44b2-b0b3-34bfeeb104a4&algo_expid=e4d5a41e-cb26-44b2-b0b3-34bfeeb104a4-0&btsid=12cbda01-43a2-43b3-9569-e27eca9536d9&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_7,searchwe b201603_53

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33043105287.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.160f7ae 1jfTqNO&algo_pvid=e4d5a41e-cb26-44b2-b0b3-34bfeeb104a4&algo_expid=e4d5a41e-cb26-44b2-b0b3-34bfeeb104a4-1&btsid=12cbda01-43a2-43b3-9569-e27eca9536d9&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_7,searchwe b201603_53

[skeeter]

Jerry:

The Arduinos aren't really that complicated. Some people write REALLY elegant code that can do anything, and it gets complicated. Others, like me, tend to write down and dirty, brute force, does one job, Neanderthal type code and that's actually pretty simple.

I had NEVER done any Arduino programming before, the biggest problem that I had was my Chinese clone Nanos use a different communication chip than the real Nanos use. It took me about a week of evenings to get things up an talking, but Google is your friend, and there is a boat-load of helpful information out there on the Interwebb.

One other thing you might want to think about in the future is using a 3D printer lead-screw and lead-nut instead of your masonary bit. Check out RC Modders,https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCX_3TdT3g8HEBJ79GSjpC7g CAT telehandler conversion, he shows how he did it. The 3D printer parts are fairly cheap and are very smooth in operation. I've got a couple of conversions in process that will use a variation of this for the rams. Crueby has a 340 CAT excavator conversion on this forum that also uses these leadscrews, check it out.

If you are a fan of steam, you might want to check out some of the rest of his work over on the Model Engine Maker website. Be ready to spend a while though there's a LOT of pages to go through. His Lombard model took a year or more to build and I think his Marion Shovel took a couple of years.

Don
RC Modders used T8 leadscrew for that conversion. As previously mentioned, they are common parts for 3D printers

[jerry56]

I have some 6mm and 8mm lead screw I plan on trying out, it will need a slightly faster motor but with more turns I might not need as much torque..
Like I said in the first post I'm new to this so with each little project in the build I learn a little more.
I think I will give the Arduino nano a try eventually I like the idea and once I get the right code working I can just reuse it, but for now I'm still working out the mechanics of the conversions ...lol...yeah brute force down and dirty....that works...
I saw that tele-handler build...you guys are really talented I'm in awe of some of these builds

[skeeter]

My first conversion.................when I look back at it, although fun & inexpensive, it was a disaster! With each one we do we learn. When I converted a second Bruder tracked loader for a fellow PNWSTE member, I made his a little better than mine. My tracked loader was the 3rd Bruder conversion I ever did. I made a few mistakes on it, & there was room for improvements.

[Rvjimd]

Nice job on the dump truck conversion Jerry!

[jerry56]

Thanks, It was my first build and I've learned a lot in the last 2 years. As a matter-o-fact I'm in the process of rebuilding it and cleaning it up. I'll get a build thread going here pretty soon.
Your one of the people I have to thank for getting me started.... I also have a couple Nylint Michigan Cranes I want to do....just need refine my skills so to speak before I start them...

[frizzen]

Thanks for bringing this project back up to the top. It's a cool looking tonka.

I'd missed out on the tip about building the Lift around T8 lead screw. Sounds like an easier path with less parts fabricating.

[jerry56]

This time around I'm going to use some screw drives from a Huina 580 these are showing great promise and a T8 lead screw.... I have a t6 to try but it's giving me problems...I also have a 3D printer this time around so I hope to be able to make some aspects of a little neater.