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Madda
11-13-2012, 05:49 PM
Very good pictures and models! Thanks for sharing! Those big CAT and Komatsu exavators look really nice!

dabears
11-13-2012, 09:31 PM
Man if we could get our shows looking that cool that would be awesome!! Looked like a cool place to go and look at everything! Great looking machines! Must of been nice to be able to see everything up close and look at details to make purchasing decisions! Thanks for the great pics! that crusher was sweet!

Lil Giants
11-14-2012, 01:33 AM
Fantastic pictures Dan, thank you very much for the great photos! :cool:

Those jaw crushers are starting to appear more & more all the time. The one you have pictured, was it built by a model manufacture or a private individual? I wonder what the pricetag might be for something of that awesomeness? :D

D8R
11-14-2012, 03:17 AM
Fantastic pictures Dan, thank you very much for the great photos! :cool:

Those jaw crushers are starting to appear more & more all the time. The one you have pictured, was it built by a model manufacture or a private individual? I wonder what the pricetag might be for something of that awesomeness? :D

No, this cruser was in Premacon´s stand, they where called Liebherrmodelle before. Besides those models they have some nice scalemodels of Scania to. They do not have the cruser on the home page yet.

http://shop.premacon.com/index.php

The photos from driving area was area designated for 1:14 size. Another one for bigger 1:8 models, in addition to 2 more areas. This was in one of 5 big buildings (like this one), the others filled with everything that a modeller could wish for, from scale nut and bults to CNC machines! From 1000´s gallons water tank for ship models to huge railroad layouts, even a working steam train model running with passengers outside.
I have not been to the other big shows in Germany (yet) but think this one is a good one.
Couldn´t find dates for next year yet but guess it will be 31 october-3 november 2013.
Dan

Lil Giants
11-14-2012, 03:29 AM
Looking on Google maps, I found where you live Dan, then Friedrichshafen... is it about 1500kms for you to travel to the show? Do you take the train the entire way?

Thank you for the info on the crusher, much appreciated. It'll be interesting to see if such a model will ever be produced (or just even the primary parts to start such a project)?

I have found a model jaw crusher in Germany for sale from a private individual and was blown away by the price!!! (then add shipping $ for something that weighs 150kg) ..it'd be interesting to see what Premacon would come up with for a price to compare to the private built model?

Thank you for the notice on next yr's possible show dates. :)

D8R
11-14-2012, 05:53 AM
No we usually fly down there, either to Munich (Germany) or Zurich (CH). With a rental car it´s a ~2hour drive to Friedrichshafen. The area around Boden sea have some breath taking scenery, love the alps!
Some day I hope to bring the D8 with me, guess they need a bigger working area, don´t know if they will allow models with combustion engines in that hall.

Azonic
11-14-2012, 07:11 AM
Here is a link to these shows that Dan went to, i would love to go to the Karlsruhe show in the end of mars, if so i think i will go by car.

I havent seen any info on the crusher on the german sites yet but i have seen som CAD drawings of a Liebherr 754 dozer that Premacon is working on.

Also, thanks for the pics Dan, always nice to see pics from these shows!

Stefan
11-14-2012, 03:40 PM
Yeah, was nice talking to you too, Dan. And thanks for sharing the pictures - me stupid having forgotten the camera in the car :mad: However, I made extensive use of my binocular [sic]... :eek::eek: First time a brought it, and it really paid of despite the weight to carry around; makes a huge difference being able to see the tiniest screw on a model 10 meters away on the driving area. Must have looked pretty strange to other visitors, though - have never seen anyone else with a bino on such a show.

Stefan

Jw.
11-15-2012, 12:15 AM
The fifth picture down of the cat 374d lme. Is that a Hendrick Seipt model? Doesn't Hendrick Seipt from THS Truckmodelle work for Premacon? It looks like one of Mr. Seipt's one off cats. Do you have anymore pictures of the 374? Do you know where the cat 772 from?

Lil Giants
11-15-2012, 03:26 AM
Some day I hope to bring the D8 with me, guess they need a bigger working area, don´t know if they will allow models with combustion engines in that hall.

Well, with your talents, there's surely powerful enough brushless motors on the market to repower your dozer for such indoor events? ...as many times as you've had that model apart during your build, you could make a swap blind folded in record time! :D

apfubar
11-15-2012, 03:39 AM
...
Some day I hope to bring the D8 with me, guess they need a bigger working area, don´t know if they will allow models with combustion engines in that hall.

No models with combustion just very realistic sound and smoke modules.... :D

Cheers,
AP

D8R
11-15-2012, 04:46 AM
No models with combustion just very realistic sound and smoke modules.... :D

Cheers,
AP

Maybee if I say that I have the most/best realistic sound and smoke module inside:rolleyes::rolleyes:
Dan

D8R
11-21-2012, 05:19 PM
Have still some parts to do, one major assembly is the hydraulic control for ripper tooth. My big steel cutter can´t be used right now, don´t have any electricity in that shop anymore (mowing out) so did some CAD on needed parts to be laser cut. Will probably take a couple of weeks before getting the parts but feels good to have this going. Also the sheet metal parts for hood will be done at same time. Those parts are the last to be manufactored (exept for new windows for cab), I hope. Then testing will start :):)

Some printout from program, all major parts, in total this will add up another 60 parts
http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/af270/gulalastbilen/MV44088-1.jpg

http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/af270/gulalastbilen/MV44089-1.jpg

With some yellow paint on. This cylinder will not be hydraulic operated, don´t have any valve position or RC position left. It will be spring activated, push cylinder rod in and ripper can be adjusted. Maybee later it can be changed to a electric cylinder but don´t think it will be used that much.
http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/af270/gulalastbilen/Assem1d.jpg

Since working with ripper assembly this was removed from dozer. Have never had it without any attatchment so got some photos, this way with scraper it will look like some bigger machines at McAninch.
http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/af270/gulalastbilen/DSC_0336.jpg

http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/af270/gulalastbilen/DSC_0332.jpg

Will come back when parts done
Dan

bigford
11-21-2012, 06:30 PM
thats cat is sweet, but i want to see the lowboy and tractor you build to haul it!!

Azonic
11-22-2012, 02:35 AM
Very nice Dan, what a great build this is!

About laser, we got a laser shop in Borlänge called Borlänge Plåtteknik, http://www.dpt.se/system/visa.asp?HID=869&FID=825&HSID=15710, they have helpt me with some laser cutting and make it quick. If you like to try, talk to Fredrik. //Kalle

D8R
12-06-2012, 03:13 AM
thats cat is sweet, but i want to see the lowboy and tractor you build to haul it!!

There has been plans for building this, but it depends on if I can get some drawings to work from. As you might know, I´m living in Sweden and we have different lowboys here, if I build one it should look like an american, Rogers or other brand. Guess it´s hard to get drawings, next option is to make my own drawings (need to go over there :rolleyes::D). If anyone have connections to a manufactor, please let me know, don´t need production drawings, only a nice drawing showing main sizes and positions with side- top- rear view.
Have a KW drawn, as with all rolling models, biggest problem is to find tires looking like the real ones.

About electric drive, there´s always a possibility to change way of powering this model, it´s not that hard to remove all hydraulics (exept for cylinders) but you will need some big batteries to get the power. But I will try with gas engine first, if that fails, that problem has to be dealt with then.

Progress, last (?) parts on order now (Kalle, have a good supplier close to where I live, thanks anyhow) hope to get them before christmas.
Did buy some thin glass (1,7mm) sheet, will try make windows in real glass.

Dan

TRUCKMAKER
12-06-2012, 03:29 AM
Hi Dan, here is the link to Roger trailers
http://www.rogerstrailers.com/
I saved the site for that very reason they have drawings with dimensions, hope it helps. The build is coming along nicely.

9W Monighan
12-06-2012, 04:32 AM
Hey Dan, You may want to cut the glass to size then see about getting it tempered so it won't crack easily.

D8R
12-06-2012, 10:44 AM
Hi Dan, here is the link to Roger trailers
http://www.rogerstrailers.com/
I saved the site for that very reason they have drawings with dimensions, hope it helps. The build is coming along nicely.

Thanks, did look there on a 50 ton lowboy(CR50PL), scaled down to D8R size (1 to5,6), the trailer alone will be 9foot long! Unfortunatly it looks like the drawing is not so good for detail, have to enlarge it with 1500%, but it will give main messurments. Guess christmas holidays saved behind computer making some drawings.

Hey Dan, You may want to cut the glass to size then see about getting it tempered so it won't crack easily.
Steve, I will try cutting the windows first, not sure I can do it, is it specialist that tempers the glass?

Dan

9W Monighan
12-07-2012, 06:03 AM
That thin of glass is not difficult to cut if you score it correctly with a good glass cutter. After cut to basic size, you can grose with pliers sand or carefully grind to get the rounded corners then sand smooth. You should be able to go to a glass shop and they could get the pieces tempered for you. I learned how to cut glass at an early age in my grandfather's stained glass shop.

D8R
12-12-2012, 10:28 AM
That thin of glass is not difficult to cut if you score it correctly with a good glass cutter. After cut to basic size, you can grose with pliers sand or carefully grind to get the rounded corners then sand smooth. You should be able to go to a glass shop and they could get the pieces tempered for you. I learned how to cut glass at an early age in my grandfather's stained glass shop.

Steve,
I got a Silbersch cutting head in the deal with glass, looks like a good tool for cutting. Will keep you posted.

Truckmaker, did go thru Rogers sales documents on there web site, They have some nice drawings like for this 50 tonner
http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/af270/gulalastbilen/century_series-500.jpg
http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/af270/gulalastbilen/SSSDPE_20121207_0750_001.jpg

But on other hand, I have a crush for California style lowboy like this Murray

http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/af270/gulalastbilen/murrayprof.jpg

Not a drawing to build from, have to make some contact there, think the Professional has some advantages, not so long as Rogers trailer.
By the way, have you 1/16 seen this trailer, they have one for sale, no price tag seen

http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/af270/gulalastbilen/38a.jpg

Dan

D8R
12-22-2012, 08:32 AM
Did try milling the track shoes (keeping track in place) on bogies. Did take nuch longer time than expected. Had to start making some angle bits to use as guides when milling

http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/af270/gulalastbilen/DSC_0355-2.jpg

First one done, will see if I do more or wait for Santa, maybee a cnc for christmas:rolleyes::rolleyes:

Have been looking for one, maybee next year:)

http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/af270/gulalastbilen/DSC_0356.jpg

This is the look when mounted, 15 more to go:mad:
http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/af270/gulalastbilen/DSC_0353.jpg

And last but not least

A very HAPPY HOLIDAYS to you all!

http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/af270/gulalastbilen/DSC_0021-2.jpg

(and last pic, you can use a D8R moving snow, here my friend with the proto CAT). This is from 2 years back but we have same amout of snow this year. Ofcourse the machine is to heavy to walk on top of snow, have to use a D6LGP there.

http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/af270/gulalastbilen/DSC_0168.jpg

Dan

td9clyde
12-26-2012, 10:55 AM
I can't help but to set here and look and study the pics and details of you dozer build it is just very nice work

TRUCKMAKER
12-26-2012, 01:09 PM
Steve,
I got a Silbersch cutting head in the deal with glass, looks like a good tool for cutting. Will keep you posted.

Truckmaker, did go thru Rogers sales documents on there web site, They have some nice drawings like for this 50 tonner
http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/af270/gulalastbilen/century_series-500.jpg
http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/af270/gulalastbilen/SSSDPE_20121207_0750_001.jpg

But on other hand, I have a crush for California style lowboy like this Murray

http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/af270/gulalastbilen/murrayprof.jpg

Not a drawing to build from, have to make some contact there, think the Professional has some advantages, not so long as Rogers trailer.
By the way, have you 1/16 seen this trailer, they have one for sale, no price tag seen

http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/af270/gulalastbilen/38a.jpg

Dan

Hi Dan, Sorry It took so long to respond, I missed the thread update, yes the drawings they have on the sales sheets are great, it was the main reason I posted the link. I have not seen the Murray trailer it looks nice! I like the multiple duals on the axles and lightening holes!

D8R
12-27-2012, 05:10 AM
Hi Dan, Sorry It took so long to respond, I missed the thread update, yes the drawings they have on the sales sheets are great, it was the main reason I posted the link. I have not seen the Murray trailer it looks nice! I like the multiple duals on the axles and lightening holes!

No problem, not decided yet if going east or west coast style. Have a Rogers 35 ton trailer for my full scale Pete, no problem with sizes there.

I can't help but to set here and look and study the pics and details of you dozer build it is just very nice work

Thanks Henry!

Did some more milling (no, Santa didn´t come with cnc) on rest of all shoes needed. Amazing how much time can be spent making small parts that for most observer will never be noticeable. But they have a reason, guiding the tracks. (yes, there is one to much, spare part:rolleyes:)

All done, threaded M4
http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/af270/gulalastbilen/DSC_0370.jpg

Will sandblast blade and ripper parts tomorrow to get a nice surface to add more details. More about that later.
Dan

D8R
01-05-2013, 07:27 AM
Did get laser cutted part this week, still gets very exited when new parts arrive. And there is some times supprises, forgot one part :mad: and had some minor miss alignment on some others :mad::mad:

http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/af270/gulalastbilen/DSC_0388_zps739c45a9.jpg

Did blade cylinder piston cover, don't know if this is a CAT part but it makes sence. Pusherarms was also modified, the right one with an extra cylinder cover plate.
http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/af270/gulalastbilen/DSC_0389-1_zpsc38b34a8.jpg

Left one with 3 different holes to set angle of blade and new square push arm
http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/af270/gulalastbilen/DSC_0395_zpsb1cea056.jpg

Still to do on arms are the ladder steps on outside and a more prototypical conector (end) to dozer


On blade I made some more details, covers for cylinders, holder for GPS reciver and blade angle reader with cover.
http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/af270/gulalastbilen/DSC_0392_zps17664cf2.jpg

1st time I did mill a part like this,
http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/af270/gulalastbilen/DSC_0394-1_zps2370b4aa.jpg

GPS antenna made, lenght to be adapted as soon I have correct heights.
http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/af270/gulalastbilen/DSC_0375_zpsc5ebea06.jpg

Some parts for ripper tooth control was also cutted, here some TIG welded together (new expirience to me)
http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/af270/gulalastbilen/DSC_0396_zpsdea42256.jpg

Cutting windows for cab on hold due to computer problem. Have an old Windows 98 computer with CAD program. The printer broke down and is not possible to replace with a newer one (needs higher than W98). So now I need to find spare parts to get out the drawings to use as guides.

Dan

9W Monighan
01-05-2013, 08:40 AM
Love seeing this kind of fabrication work. Keep it coming!
What does the blade weigh?

footprint
01-05-2013, 12:44 PM
As usual amazing build thanks for the updates, did i mention we love pics :)
The printer broke down and is not possible to replace with a newer one (needs higher than W98). So now I need to find spare parts to get out the drawings to use as guides.

Dan
Could you save/export as a PDF and print elsewhere? depending on the filetype you could export the plot file, just a suggestion but i've no idea on such an old version of Solidworks.

Keep up the fantastic work can almost smell it running

D8R
01-06-2013, 01:33 AM
Love seeing this kind of fabrication work. Keep it coming!
What does the blade weigh?

Thanks Steve, yes it felt good going back welding again (still beginner at that to:o)
The weight of blade is 54lbs or 25kg but you get a good grip on it holding in guard. The pusharms weight another 16lbs.

Could you save/export as a PDF and print elsewhere? depending on the filetype you could export the plot file, just a suggestion but i've no idea on such an old version of Solidworks.

Keep up the fantastic work can almost smell it running

Thanks, yes hope to to smell engine soon, been waiting a long time for that.
Pdf could be a solution, remember getting some distorsion (lenght vs height) when making pdf sometimes, will check
Dan

D8R
01-07-2013, 09:50 AM
Pin puller assembly done (except for pins instead of bolts)
CAD model:
http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/af270/gulalastbilen/Assem1d.jpg
and how it turned out:
http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/af270/gulalastbilen/DSC_0399_zpsece46f78.jpg

Do not have room for any more hydraulics so it has a spring loaded cylinder.
Testing doing videos with the dozer cam, see here:
www.youtube.com/watch?v=TsZIEjif7eM

Spacers inside ripper assembly (where tooth will be) will be milled in alu and bolted in place. Not shure how tight/loose the ripper should be, some movement needed for shure. Will get alu tomorrow, pics coming.
Have a nice monday night!
Dan

JAMMER
01-07-2013, 12:19 PM
Hello Dan this is only a suggestion but why don't you use a small air pump and a solenoid to work your ripper? Ed

D8R
01-09-2013, 11:02 AM
Hello Dan this is only a suggestion but why don't you use a small air pump and a solenoid to work your ripper? Ed

Hi Ed, thanks but I don't have any more channels on RC left, the seller talked me into buying 9 ch instead of 7 ch, and they are used so I will have to use some finger force to change position on ripper.

To something complete different, you may have read about coming model mentioned above (Thanks Reg you gave me some new inspiration), today when buying some helicoil I strolled around in shop and found:

http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/af270/gulalastbilen/DSC_0404-1_zps4d5f5155.jpg

I always looks at shelfs with tires/wheels to see if there is anything that could be useful for coming models, this tire was a new addition to the store, messurments are very close to 315/80R22,5 in 1:5,6 scale:
8" tall, 4" (almost) wheel size and 3,5" wide (a little to wide for us trucks on bogie).
I know this is not a common wheelsize but if it is this or having to get custom made tires ($$$$$$$) maybee I can live with that.
Bad side is that wheel is solid :mad: but that can be an advantage when making treads. But as you see, it has a more prototypical look than most other wheels I have seen.
Anyone that has been doing tread cutting in solid wheels??
Pricetag was ok, $15. Wheels will be replaced with prototypical looking ones.

Don't know if I dare to wait and hope finding better ones or make an order for 18 pcs:confused:

At home I couldn't resist to dig into the storage to get my old drawing of a Kenworth tractor. If I build one it would most likely be a Pete 359, have a real one so no problem with getting all needed messurments.

http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/af270/gulalastbilen/DSC_0403-1_zps5dcb1e80.jpg

Any suggestion or comment velcome:)
Dan

doodlebug
01-09-2013, 07:14 PM
Hey Dan, have you been on the amerityre website, not home, so no link.
They have some nice tire's, I talked with IH builder steve about these a while
Back. Hope to be home in a week.
Cheer's, Neil.

RCP57
01-09-2013, 07:37 PM
Awesome! It's funny how we all motivate one another to build more stuff! I've been keeping an eye out for large tires(8-10") as well at a local parts and surplus store and they had some a while back that would have worked for my brain fart of an idea but I didn't buy any and now they don't have them any more:(.

I hope you start this build soon regardless of what brand of truck you make. If it has half of the detail that your dozer has it will be amazing!

Reg

D8R
01-13-2013, 01:44 PM
Awesome! It's funny how we all motivate one another to build more stuff! I've been keeping an eye out for large tires(8-10") as well at a local parts and surplus store and they had some a while back that would have worked for my brain fart of an idea but I didn't buy any and now they don't have them any more.

I hope you start this build soon regardless of what brand of truck you make. If it has half of the detail that your dozer has it will be amazing!

Reg

Yes Reg, know the feeling of not buying when items available. Will order 18 of those this week, 10 needed for tractor but the lowboy needs smaller ones (rest 8 for possible other trailer). Did put the tire in lathe today but wheel/tire assembly was so wobbling so it was not possible to test cut any pattern. Removed wheel, need to make a new holder for tire before testing again.

Truck and trailer will have details to, like to do those and it adds a lot of attention (easier to do in this bigger scale).

Did mill the oval holes in ripper (made of Hardox wear). Got info from my friend having a real one where to position them.

http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/af270/gulalastbilen/DSC_0406-1_zps9fd4d115.jpg

With ripper in lowest position, it will be possible of ripping 22cm/9" of material (I hope so). The weight of this ripper assembly are 22lbs/10kg now. With this position ripper tipp is almost hitting ground when ripper holder is as high it can come.

http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/af270/gulalastbilen/DSC_0410_zps9b91a652.jpg

Pin puller got new pins instead of over sized bolts

http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/af270/gulalastbilen/DSC_0408_zpsd3678e7c.jpg

Started up next part today, engine compartment with it´s doors and base for hood. This is supposed to be last parts made :D, after this structure I will concentrate on engine start up and last modification on cylinders/hydraulics.
Of course will door handle work as proto do, have not decided if I should do the safety lockers :rolleyes: (no, they are to small)

http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/af270/gulalastbilen/DSC_0411_zpsfc921797.jpg

Dan

ihbuilder
01-13-2013, 02:02 PM
looks good , Dan . Any issues on milling the hardox ? I was told by the guys I know @ JMH Trailers that it's a little tough on the mill . Are you making a cap for the ripper shank ?

Stefan
01-14-2013, 06:54 AM
Wow, you are really in building mood/mode, Dan :D (wish I was, too). Very nice parts!

Stefan

D8R
01-17-2013, 12:32 PM
looks good , Dan . Any issues on milling the hardox ? I was told by the guys I know @ JMH Trailers that it's a little tough on the mill . Are you making a cap for the ripper shank ?

Thanks Steve, milling in Hardox was no problem, started with some drilled holes. I have also drilled and counter sunk holes in the cutting edges (also made in Hardox) for the blade without any problem. Tools with sharp edges seems to cut nice in this material.
Cap :o, sorry don't know what that is, if it should be there I guess have to make it. Any pics or description?


Wow, you are really in building mood/mode, Dan (wish I was, too). Very nice parts!

Stefan

Thanks Stefan, yes, have been busy making this model finished, spring season coming soon and has some gardening work to do :D
Or maybee focus is slipping more to next model, BUT I will not start that build before this is ready.

Have worked with the engine doors, got them milled to accept hinges.
http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/af270/gulalastbilen/DSC_0414_zps2aa4c594.jpg

When open you have axcess to engine and checking oil. Still need the locking part inside door. Door frame should get some stabilazer side ways, doors are quite heavy, 2mm steel plate.

http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/af270/gulalastbilen/DSC_0417_zpsb9a527d5.jpg

More steel plates in rear of engine compartment to be done and finishing the hood next on the list "to do".
Dan

ihbuilder
01-17-2013, 01:29 PM
"CAP" would be the same on a loader bucket . It's hard to see on the D8 you have posted here pushing snow , But it looks like it's there . I'm going to make some for my 990 . I have no way to cast steel like the realy 1's . So , I'll be machining them in 2 halves and weld them together much like Steve did on his dragline for the cable loops .

Lil Giants
01-18-2013, 12:07 AM
CAP- replaceable tooth.

I suppose what Steve is referring to is a wider tooth for your shank to keep the wear off the shank itself while its penetrating the ground.

What you have already looks good for a cap.. can certainly see the parting line of the welded tip from the shank itself. ;)

http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/af270/gulalastbilen/DSC_0410_zps9b91a652.jpg

D8R
01-18-2013, 02:59 AM
yes, that´s correct, the tip and cover above are made of 2 identical pieces welded together. The shape of those are removed from shank and parts welded/soldered in place. Missing is the pin normally holding tip in place, that will be drilled and inserted (no function, only visual).
/Dan

ihbuilder
01-18-2013, 04:31 AM
CAP- replaceable tooth.

I suppose what Steve is referring to is a wider tooth for your shank to keep the wear off the shank itself while its penetrating the ground.

What you have already looks good for a cap.. can certainly see the parting line of the welded tip from the shank itself. ;)

http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/af270/gulalastbilen/DSC_0410_zps9b91a652.jpg

FWIW , I think I was misunderstood . I merely asked if Dan was going to make a "cap" since his level of detail is literally perfect . But , now that I look at it again with my glasses on :o I see :o

OTOH , It looks great Dan . As for the Hardox , I might have not heard the guy right . He's a welder and sounds like he has emphysema . Couple that with someone who has 75% hearing lost :eek:.

D8R
01-26-2013, 01:15 AM
Very little time in workshop right now, but redid the tip so it looks like excangeble parts. Still need some heating to braze it in place (now only hold by 2 small weld spots). The parts was done long ago, didn't have all documentation at that time, maybee do a complete new one later. Only thing bother me now is the material going downwards from middle hole, but that can be milled away. During this build that has been going on for last 10 years (yes slow builder :o but a couple of 1000's hours invested in it) the information I have on the original dozer has grown, so has my self learned skills in all type of machine workshop works also grown. When looking back, if started all over again, I have made it in another way. But that's what hobby is, enhansing your skills while having fun.

http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/af270/gulalastbilen/IMG_0300.jpg

Dan

buzzy16
01-26-2013, 01:29 AM
Wow this looks amazing!! How much does it weigh?

D8R
01-26-2013, 01:50 AM
Hello buzzy, thanks, the machine is around 450lbs (205kg) now, will be another 25- 30lbs when "filled up" with fluids. Yes, the hydaulic system have more than 2 gallon of oil!

The ripper tooth is 4,5lbs (2kg), the big scale adds up a lot of weight.
When starting this build I made some calculations, in my thoughts then was a model weight of 140kg. The "scale" weight was calculated to 216kg so it turns out that I'm hitting the weight almost spot on!:)
Dan

buzzy16
01-26-2013, 02:08 AM
Ha wow that's going to be an awesome thing to control, I'd love to have something that big to control, and the ripper looks very mean!!
Congrats on the build so far, hope to see lots of running vids of you ripping thing up :D

ihbuilder
01-26-2013, 04:43 AM
looks great Dan, I can see it now :o

catmack
02-01-2013, 03:18 PM
Dan,

It looks great, maybe I missed the thread but, did you make the control valve for the drive motors?

D8R
02-02-2013, 06:03 AM
Dan,

It looks great, maybe I missed the thread but, did you make the control valve for the drive motors?

HI, I think you find answer on page 8 and #152, there´s good pics showing the control valve mounted. No, I did buy them, they are HAWE propotional valve with open centre making only needed oil go thru valve, rest goes around, making less heat I hope. Drive motors gives 90% torque at 0rpm, but with my reduction 1:4 it will smoothen out motors movement.

Dan

D8R
02-03-2013, 08:43 AM
Weekend update:
Finaly got all hydraulics (return lines) inside machine connected together :), still to connect cylinders on ripper and cylinder for blade control sideways.

Here's pic showing connections
http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/af270/gulalastbilen/IMG_0335_zpsddfad6c7.jpg

Have made some handle bars before on cab, needed 2 more on hood. made a small press tool to form end of hand rails like the real ones.
http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/af270/gulalastbilen/IMG_0343_zps480ffae5.jpg
http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/af270/gulalastbilen/IMG_0330_zps98b775cc.jpg

With bars mounted on hood (and hood mounted on sides)
http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/af270/gulalastbilen/IMG_0331_zpsb1946f38.jpg

Need now a wall between engine room and cab, will try get some help welding on hood, don't dare doing it myself, hood is $$$

Dan

D8R
02-09-2013, 01:38 PM
How to turn a bowl shaped part?
Well, do not have any radie-turning tool for lathe, so had to do as good as possible with normal bits and then making the last steps with a file. Doesn't feels good working with file when lathe is running.
Have seen some solutions on net, anyone having suggestion, all input appriciated, need that if making some wheels for next model.

Aircleaner top bowl
http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/af270/gulalastbilen/IMG_0357_zps61ed669d.jpg

Anti skid plate mounted outside cab,
http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/af270/gulalastbilen/IMG_0358_zpsad2d4715.jpg

and got some nice cable for GPS, here just testing how it looks. Cables are those that stores selling phones use for safety (prevent stealing the phone). There's different sizes of cables, this one was the smallest one and has right diameter of the spool. Connection in both ends will be remade.
When building models, you should always keep eyes open, useable parts are everywhere!
http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/af270/gulalastbilen/IMG_0360_zps7e878307.jpg

Dan

9W Monighan
02-09-2013, 05:38 PM
Nice job on the pre cleaner Dan. If you had a lot of those to make you could make a wooden pattern and spin thin aluminum over it.

td9clyde
02-10-2013, 03:35 PM
nice work I can't wait to see this move and hear it run

D8R
02-16-2013, 01:08 PM
Thanks guys, me to waiting to hear it.
But found out that aircleaner was missing something, here the real one
http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/af270/gulalastbilen/DSCF5250_zps1c9f0ada.jpg

and model
http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/af270/gulalastbilen/DSC_0437_zps49a9f773.jpg

A little hard to see, mesh should should be finer, but this done for durability. Have learned from shows so far that visitors can't read (signs say DO NOT TOUCH) leaning, peeling, and looking with the their fingers:mad::mad:
Here a close up pic, don't know the reason for why some holes missing but that's the way its looks.
http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/af270/gulalastbilen/DSC_0438-1_zps3d58b37c.jpg

Dan

Stefan
02-16-2013, 01:41 PM
Nice detailing again, Dan! Really incredible. Don´t want to push you*, but I see the original air cleaner has some kind of flange at the bottom :rolleyes:

Stefan

*) (yes, I do) :p :D

doodlebug
02-16-2013, 07:07 PM
Ever thought about putting up an electric fence around it?
Lol! Shock the ???? Out of them!
Like the progress!
Cheers, Neil.

D8R
02-17-2013, 04:01 AM
Nice detailing again, Dan! Really incredible. Don´t want to push you*, but I see the original air cleaner has some kind of flange at the bottom :rolleyes:

Stefan

*) (yes, I do) :p :D


Happy now Stefan? I could see that coming:rolleyes:
http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/af270/gulalastbilen/DSC_0443-1_zps033def6a.jpg

No laser shop open this morning so did it old fasion style with drilling, file and so on:p

Ever thought about putting up an electric fence around it?
Lol! Shock the ???? Out of them!
Like the progress!
Cheers, Neil.

Well Neil, sometimes you wounder about how people think :confused:(or maybee do not), have had parents being angry when I tell the kids to not touching/mowing things like the doors. Just waiting for that day when they steal the driver or his dog inside cab. BUT most visitors are realy nice, interested in the build and eager to see all details and how things was designed:)
Dan

Stefan
02-17-2013, 05:26 AM
Ha, very quick reaction, Dan :eek:. I´d say that´s 1:0 for you. :D:D

dirtpusher9
02-24-2013, 01:43 PM
Looking better all the time Dan. But you are killing me having to wait and see this master piece run.

D8R
02-25-2013, 02:47 AM
Looking better all the time Dan. But you are killing me having to wait and see this master piece run.

Thanks, yes I know it's taking so long time :o:o but who's waiting......
Will try starting/breaking in the Honda engine next weekend , I hope.
But the goal is to have it up and running this summer
Dan

D8R
03-10-2013, 09:35 AM
Did not get it started:mad: will not say anything now until I have done the start.
This weeks evenings (have max 2 hours of time/day) redid the connections between machine and pusharms.
(old photo some years ago when planning how cab should be done)
http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/af270/gulalastbilen/DSC_0381-1_zps079f1742.jpg

Was never happy with the simple solution, did mill new ones from a bar. Amazing how much time it took, did use an old steelplate (have not yet made that cheeseplate Reg used) to mill some parts at rotary table.
http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/af270/gulalastbilen/DSC_0490_zpscdec9170.jpg

Didn't separate the 2 parts until almost finished, have a swivel bearing inside
http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/af270/gulalastbilen/DSC_0496_zpsadf00fca.jpg

Had to modify the bolts to fit inside swivel and getting as much movent as possible
http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/af270/gulalastbilen/DSC_0500_zpsc8bb9be5.jpg

The new connectors welded to pusharms, looks now like proto
http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/af270/gulalastbilen/DSC_0501_zps88a22fc7.jpg

Dan

Kingcam2
03-10-2013, 03:40 PM
Hi Dan

OMG what a Big Build you have worked on for over the Past ten years.

Love you work, can't wait to see I Video of it running.

From Cameron.

doodlebug
03-10-2013, 07:30 PM
Hey Dan, read thru Jeff's forum, http://www.hydraulicinnovations.com/forum/showthread.php?t=449 and get some idea's for your future transport truck & trailer. I can give you idea's for hydrostatic drive. pm me with questions.
More progress on the "Kitty":D:D:D
Cheer's, Neil.

D8R
03-17-2013, 12:12 PM
Hey Dan, read thru Jeff's forum, http://www.hydraulicinnovations.com/...read.php?t=449 and get some idea's for your future transport truck & trailer. I can give you idea's for hydrostatic drive. pm me with questions.
More progress on the "Kitty"
Cheer's, Neil.

Neil, thanks for the link! Have not decided what type pf power there will be in the truck, would like to have a small gas engine , like Honda GX25 or GX33 with a real gear box. Have looked at Eatons hydro parts, we'll see.
Havn't figured out how to move dozer without starting engine. Today I have to remove gears in hub reduction but that will not be practical to do every time machine is moved. Don't know how much force needed to get hydraulic motors turning.

This weekends update:
Steps om push arms was missing, did weld a 6mm steel rod on and increased height with some welds, grinding down to get the anti slip pattern.
http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/af270/gulalastbilen/DSC_0554_zps0e1d7151.jpg

The rear part of engine comparment was finaly done:)
Connection to ripper is with quick couplings (will use same outlet for scraper), was not satisfied with the small blocks, did make new longer with a recess to take strain from bolt when cylinder moves. Of course, first one was made with connection wrong:mad:
http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/af270/gulalastbilen/DSC_0560_zps5ca5ed1c.jpg

Planning for some painting next weekend on new or remade parts. Still windows to cut, make the connections at cylinders, but no more new parts on "to do" list. Goal is to have model running 3 rd weekend of june at a show north of Stockholm. If everything goes as planned it can be done but still not convinced that all hydraulic will work flawless from beginning.
/Dan

tracksntreadslou
03-17-2013, 01:30 PM
Dan awsome work...Cant wait to hear this cat run and see it in action..You must get alot of compliments on it at the shows ..dont know if you have seen there are a few larger rc dozers workig on youtube
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dCKJQ5S1hcw
Hey Dan seeing you are doing the windows soon thought this may intrest you ..I am going to order some for future projects http://www.greathobbies.com/productinfo/?prod_id=FOR133

doodlebug
03-17-2013, 07:38 PM
Hey Dan, do you have room to tee in a couple of high pressure ball valves
On the drive motor's? That would give freewheel to the beast!
Cheer's, Neil.

apfubar
03-17-2013, 11:56 PM
Dan,

Have you tried just opening the valves up that are there now? You could do some smarts with the servos... Its gotta be easy to run the receiver and servos without the motor?

Cheers,
AP

D8R
03-18-2013, 02:50 AM
Dan,
Have you tried just opening the valves up that are there now? You could do some smarts with the servos... Its gotta be easy to run the receiver and servos without the motor?
Cheers,
AP

Hey Dan, do you have room to tee in a couple of high pressure ball valves
On the drive motor's? That would give freewheel to the beast!
Cheer's, Neil.


Thanks guys for the suggestions. Have not filled up system yet, don't want to stress hyd motors before they have oil. Today it's almost impossible to move the machine if not gears are removed.
Neil, there's not room for anything more inside, it's cramped!
Will test these when filled up, until then go without gears.

Yes Lou, have tried to follow what's shown on tube. I know of one BIG norwegian D11 (1:4 750kg=1600lbs) that has not been seen there yet, guess that will come when snow/winter is over.
FOUND IT:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-MxKX_bhwRI

/Dan

pugs
03-19-2013, 12:32 PM
Looking really good Dan. As far as moving it, not much different than todays skid steers and track loaders. If engine dies, it sits where it is till fixed, no moving it without something to pick it up. Don't ask how I know (new perkins engines aren't cheap lol ) Old ones had a manual bypass valve you could turn out to beable to tow them, new ones with hydraulic released parking brakes can't do it.

Does the guy with the 1:4 D11 have a build thread anywhere?

modelman
03-19-2013, 12:54 PM
D8R-the dozer is looking great! If you want to see how a good operator works, check out D9Joes videos. He is by far the best operator I have seen. Looks just like a real machine working. He is the class of the field in my opinion.

catmack
03-19-2013, 07:52 PM
Too bad you couldn't put a release on the planetaries like I have on my manlift, when it breaks down, you remove covers for the release buttons, push them in to freewheel the hubs.

doodlebug
03-21-2013, 12:49 PM
Too bad Warn 4wd hubs are out of scale, lol!
(they're on American 4wd pickup trucks)
Cheers, Neil.

Espeefan
03-23-2013, 11:17 AM
Wow! I love the little details! In a larger scale like this, you really can see all the small touches, and they add so much to the model. I bet when it's finished, and in the proper outdoor setting, it's going to look like the fullsized machine it replicates!

D8R
03-24-2013, 11:47 AM
Wow, over 50.000 views! Could never dream that there so much interest in my build:o:o

Thanks for all nice words, keeps me going. Guess I owe you a update, no pics because nothing new to show. Did work this weekend sandblasting some components, old paint was chipping (2K). With new primer and a top layer today, went back to borrowed shop to pics up att parts, only to discover that new paint didn't dry correctly like before:mad::mad:

Since the shop I borrowed will be in business tomorrow morning, had to bring all parts back home, trying to do as little harm as possible. This is the last time I will have a limited time when painting. So much can go wrong and it did!

Was planning for a show 2 weeks ahead but guess has to cancel that now. Will not do any repainting before machine is working.

But weekend was not totaly disaster, did find a solution on the rubber cusions in bogie assemblies. Did move the steps on push arms to a correct lower position (did not have any pics with me when I welded them last week:mad: )

By the way, said earlier that I have built this during the last 10 years, that's correct but found a drawing I made, dated to 1998 on a D8N. Lucky for you that this forum was not started at that time, compared to other builds here this is a borring slowly build!

Happy eastern
/Dan

D8R
04-07-2013, 03:59 PM
Last update before start up of engine:)

Did get most things done for this weekend show here in Stockholm, now only missing windows for cab, hydr lines to ripper tooth cylinder, lamps.
Everything else done. No, engine not started, the gray over engine is some sun reflections!
http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/af270/gulalastbilen/DSC_0068_zpsd2cc2ac5.jpg

Yes, I know the ripper should be yellow but couldn't start up painting equip only for this item, will do that later
http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/af270/gulalastbilen/DSC_0067_zpsdc163bc6.jpg

Some other pictures showing displays
Next to me was nice gentleman with a 1/6 Tiger tank, electric powered
http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/af270/gulalastbilen/DSC_0046-3_zps67921979.jpg

Some RC trucks at display
http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/af270/gulalastbilen/DSC_0052-2_zpsa72a7992.jpg

Nice small scene with a Beetle bus
http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/af270/gulalastbilen/DSC_0077_zpsf2ba54c1.jpg

A 1/24(25) scale model of an UPS tractor
http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/af270/gulalastbilen/DSC_0060-2_zps3c6b20fc.jpg

Old beaten Volvo F16 truck, plastic 1/24
http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/af270/gulalastbilen/DSC_0080-1_zps1696f840.jpg

/dan

Lil Giants
04-07-2013, 04:37 PM
Yes, I know the ripper should be yellow but couldn't start up painting equip only for this item, will do that later


Screw that!!! Sink it in the dirt & burn the paint off... is how it should look. ;) :D

RCLogger
04-07-2013, 09:16 PM
Thanks for the update Dan, great photo's... I am sure your CAT WOOOWED the people at the show...

cheers
Greg

jack van
12-18-2013, 01:09 AM
This has to be the best build ever your skill is amassing do you keep a parts list and cad drawings for parts

ptebbe
12-22-2013, 02:31 PM
Truly amazing work. Can't wait to see some video....

D8R
12-25-2013, 10:56 AM
Hi everyone, hope you have nice holidays!
Have not been so active with this Cat, but did get it running 3 months ago.
Found out that servos did not work as well as planned, felt like not having enough power (they should).
As you can see on link to vid bellow, that day model was only doing a left turn.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=psCaubtK4uo

Now I have new servos, got the holder cut only to get it together. But it's winter and have no warm garage to work in so have to wait (what is a couple of months, been building for 10+ years now).

Another problem is heat, engine getting to hot. Have tested removing noice damper inside homebuilt muffler, ended up mounting original silencer instead, hood and sides can not be on model with this muffler. Have to find another solution. Will try make a exhaust system without muffler to see if temperature gets lower.

And there's still some issues in hydraulic system. Can say that I was quite close to remove engine and hydraulic drive line, replacing it with electric motors. I know now that my size of model is as small as possible to build with this, components, tubing, hoses and all oil needed to get it running is just to much. A scale 1:5 should have been useful, every bit inside is used (of course cab could been used for oil and others but that's no option for me).

Some design errors made on homebuilt hydr cylinders has to be corrected to, but I'm supriced how good cylinders for blade turned out. Still more than 3 months since model was runned, blade is in air! That's tight cylinders, and weight of blade is almost 50 lbs.

Yes Jack, have all drawing saved on the model, but there will never be another made by me, just to many other interesting models to be built.

During the last months I have been active building some railroad stuffs, will post that in a seperate tread later.

Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to you all!
Dan

tc1cat
12-25-2013, 11:31 AM
Very nice dozer, to say the least!! Your issue with the motor may be not enough air flow over the motor to keep cool. Electric may be the best way to go. With your machining abilities, it should be no problem to make a drive system for the dozer. Ripper looks OK to me. Just needs to be pulled thru the dirt a few times and nobody will know its not yellow.

D8R
12-25-2013, 11:39 AM
Very nice dozer, to say the least!! Your issue with the motor may be not enough air flow over the motor to keep cool. Electric may be the best way to go. With your machining abilities, it should be no problem to make a drive system for the dozer. Ripper looks OK to me. Just needs to be pulled thru the dirt a few times and nobody will know its not yellow.

The Honda engine has a built-in fan that should keep engine cool. Have been thinking to add extra fan to get more air in-out of engine room.
Can't so much about engine (either), but if muffler don't let exhaust out easy I guess engine will have to fight harder to get mowing. Will test with new exhaust pipe.
Yes, yes, know wrong color on ripper:o but a soon model is up running good, all paint will be gone:D

JAMMER
12-25-2013, 11:52 AM
Hi Dan Merry Christmas to you. Only a suggestion but you could try some computer fans under the hood to cool it and help remove exhaust gases. This is a very nice dozer and Big hope you get the kinks worked out so you can really enjoy using it. Ed

modelman
12-26-2013, 04:31 PM
D8R-dozer looks great and seems to have plenty of power. Hope you get the cooling problem worked out. This machine could do some big time pushing!!!

D8R
12-27-2013, 08:02 AM
Hi Dan Merry Christmas to you. Only a suggestion but you could try some computer fans under the hood to cool it and help remove exhaust gases. This is a very nice dozer and Big hope you get the kinks worked out so you can really enjoy using it. Ed

Yes Ed, have had same idea using such fan being powered from rc battery (have a large one and radio has voltage warning). Still think it's the homemade muffler causing the problem. A friend of mine installed a electric device that starts fan automatic when engine gets to a preset temperature.

Dan

D8R
01-12-2014, 11:50 AM
Did finaly get new servos installed for hydr valves to drive motors. Did run good with full control:).
Next day it was planned to put model in (warm) storage during winter, started up engine only to realize that there was something wrong with valves for blade. Cylinders was pushing the blade downwards all time, only having control when lifting blade (then back down again):mad::mad:

Had to remove gears in hub reduction to move it for transport to storage and knowing that machine has to be disassembled AGAIN totaly (except left track) to get valves and servos for blade/ripper function out.

Not so happy anymore, model in storage now for next 3 -4 months. Don't know what's the problem but guessing I'll have to change servos for those functions to. A little frustrating, as said before, was very happy with blade sitting in air for 3 months time.
Next model will be electric:)
/Dan

D8R
05-13-2014, 04:53 PM
Let do like this
:mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad:
http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/af270/gulalastbilen/IMG_0003_zps8088c9a2.jpg (http://s1014.photobucket.com/user/gulalastbilen/media/IMG_0003_zps8088c9a2.jpg.html)

http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/af270/gulalastbilen/IMG_0061_zps718842cf.jpg (http://s1014.photobucket.com/user/gulalastbilen/media/IMG_0061_zps718842cf.jpg.html)

After a long brake (winter) I finaly had new servos installed in almost complete empty shell. The positive is that new servos are stronger, easier to "hold" centre position on valve. They are a little bigger, did check that compared to hydraulic motor diameter, it should fit.

http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/af270/gulalastbilen/IMG_0063_zps430da44b.jpg (http://s1014.photobucket.com/user/gulalastbilen/media/IMG_0063_zps430da44b.jpg.html)

It did NOT, the lower connector to motor, it's screw hits the servo, making it impossible to get assembly in right place. The valve hits rear end of chassis, no margin there. After another hour trying to get in place I packed up.
It looks like model has his own life, trying to make it as hard as possible for builder.
As I see it today there's 3 options
1. replace servos to same as before
2. rebuild hydraulic connectors and valve position (not much room available before hitting cab floor, maybee a complete redesign of hydaulic system.
3. rebuild machine to electric drive

My interest in this model is dropping, after 11 years and say +2000h in it, not to mention the cost, it's to much to scrap (luckely I didn't have a big hammer today).
Will let it sitt there for a couple of days, then decide what to do.
/Dan

modelman
05-13-2014, 05:17 PM
D8R-sorry to hear that. This model is way to nice to give up on :eek: I can say this is one of the problems of almost finishing a model without checking all systems but you probably don't need or want to hear that :D. I no nothing about hyds. but I was not aware that it took a strong servo to hold valves on center. Could it be the quality of servo that you are using? I say just give it a few days and then slowly work out each problem. You have built a great model and I am sure you can figure this out.

tracksntreadslou
05-13-2014, 07:50 PM
Hey dan how much room do you need ..Is it possible to turn the hex part round on your lathe then machine a hex into the backside so you could tighten with an allen wrench ..I take it thats an o-ring seal

Cooper
05-13-2014, 09:27 PM
Yea don't give up, never give up,,, I am new to these things and have found many many misfortunes with build design. But after being excited to see it work to only be let down by something failing I've left it alone for a bit to come back with something that works better. I'm sure with the talent you have displayed in the building of this model that you will find a way to make it work. It's all there just have to find that final solution. Sometimes I think of breaking out the small toolbox I have in the corner, it's got a hammer and vice grips,, a big hammer!! I haven't had to use it yet,,lol!! Have you thought of low profile servos? This is a really cool model you have and how sweet will it be when you do get it running how you envisioned!!

Cooper
05-13-2014, 09:40 PM
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__8782__BMS_705MG_Low_Profile_High_Torque_Servo_Me tal_Gear_6_0kg_18sec_34g.html
Just some cheep low pro servos

RCKiwi
05-14-2014, 07:17 AM
Hey Dan, This is quite the build and there's no doubt that none of us what to see you give in on this. As tracksntreadslou said; could you perhaps fabricate some smaller hydraulic fittings? The pipe work looks to dominate the rear section. Given the thread sizes, it was no doubt easy to pick "off the shelf" fittings for plumbing it up, but i'm sure a man like you with such skill could miniturise some of the bigger fittings. Perhaps it may hinder flow rates and performance to some extent, but would result in better setup of the servo's, etc........

Keep at it buddy!

kerst
05-14-2014, 07:56 AM
Hi Dan

This is a great model with fantastic engineering.
I know what you mean when you think the problems can't be solved. But don't give up!
Let it sink in, give it time, then you will find solutions and make it a better model.
See it as an engineering challenge.

Kerst

9W Monighan
05-14-2014, 10:07 AM
Hey Dan, Like everyone has said; DON'T GIVE UP! I want to see this model work too. I know it's fun to operate a model but Modelman has said in the past to me that building it and the challenge is more fun than just operating it. I have found that out with my dragline. Once this is figured out you will be able to say; "I've been there and done that"
With my model as time went by and more information was acquired, there are parts earlier on in the build I made that I could go back and re do to make it even better. So with your trial and error now you know what you have to do and I know you can do it! Who cares how long it takes, This is supposed to be your hobby to relax. There isn't some customer who has no knowledge of what it takes to do something breathing down your neck wanting it done NOW!

Espeefan
05-15-2014, 03:08 AM
Sorry to read about your frustrations! It's such a nice model I'd hate to see you give up too. Sometimes you just have to take a step back and work on another project that can give you some level of satisfaction and accomplishment, while thinking of ideas and solutions to the problems with the model. You'll get it figured out! You've made it this far, and have overcome what I think would be the biggest hurdle already. This part of the project is just fine tuning. It's a pain to have to redesign and revamp things, but if you can come up with a better way, go for it! You'll be glad you did in the end.

D8R
05-15-2014, 04:35 AM
Thanks all friends here at RC T&C for nice words and suggestions. You are probably right that this is a part of the process building from scratch. But I thought I had ovecomed this stage now but obvius I havn't.
Next step will be to clean everything and move model inside workshop again. Have some ideas that needs to be checked, will keep you updated. Will go to us within 2 weeks to visit ATHS truck show in MO, that will be a nice break.
I'm a little afraid to start another modeling project, I have already one decided but will try to stick with this one a little more.
Thanks again, will remember your comments when hands full of oil!
Dan

D8R
05-10-2015, 02:52 PM
Finally got some inspiration to start with the model again:o.
All connections between the valves and hydraulic motors replaced with new parts. Those banjos are little smaller making it possible to keep the bigger servos (the blue ones) for blade and ripper functions. All tubing had to be redone to, changing here to a little smaller diameters.
http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/af270/gulalastbilen/IMG_0002_zpsjyajk62w.jpg (http://s1014.photobucket.com/user/gulalastbilen/media/IMG_0002_zpsjyajk62w.jpg.html)
Now remove and mount everything again, install lower oiltank, engine, pumps and outside oiltank (fueltank in 1:1). As you see, tracks and hubs removed to be able removing hydraulic motors. Have got a lot paint damages on frame, it was painted with 2 component paint, it's chipping. Guess something gone wrong with the primer, bare metal shown Most other part with 1 c paint with out problem:mad:
/dan

Jared
05-12-2015, 12:39 AM
Good to see some progress, Dan. I was wondering about this build the other day.

Lil Giants
05-16-2015, 11:19 PM
Great to see you working on this again Dan. :cool:

Hopefully you've overcome some of the prior issues you had before & this model works they way you want it to now. :)

Wiskybilt
05-28-2015, 10:31 PM
how is it coming Dan? very curious how the solenoids are working out. I have an old t66 davis track ditch witch that could use some of this technology. I would like to convert it and make it autonomous with a flailing mower for steeper pasture ground.

D8R
06-01-2015, 03:48 AM
Sorry Wiskybilt, have no report from tests yet. Got another problem yesterday when remounting the return oilhose system, didn't fit. This due to the relocated valves. Will have to redo the connection to rear oiltank or find a smarter way to connect this tank to return system.
/dan

Wiskybilt
06-01-2015, 01:29 PM
I'll keep checking. Can you use hard line to create more space?

D8R
06-01-2015, 04:11 PM
Your right, checking now how to find alternative route for a 15mm pipe instead of hose. Thanks for all comments!

D8R
06-03-2015, 10:06 AM
New piping tested. There's low pressure on return side, that's why I use copper tubes instead of steel (easier to work/bend and bigger inside diameter).
Final adjustment today, then solder everything together :D
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/503/17798871323_1da05fffe7_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/t7PSkM)20150602_201440 (https://flic.kr/p/t7PSkM) by DgS Persson (https://www.flickr.com/photos/131413866@N03/), on Flickr

Wiskybilt
06-03-2015, 10:32 AM
Looking goood�� hope to see it moving some dirt for you real soon!

D8R
06-09-2015, 04:18 PM
Sloooooowwwwlyyyy coming together. One problem fixed results in another one!
Did find some small LED lamps that will be shortened and connected to wires instead of batteries.
http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/af270/gulalastbilen/20150607_151243_zpscd6rw21n.jpg (http://s1014.photobucket.com/user/gulalastbilen/media/20150607_151243_zpscd6rw21n.jpg.html)

Pressure hose 1/2" to long, have to get a new one tomorrow
http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/af270/gulalastbilen/20150609_201923_zpsy3nhkbdr.jpg (http://s1014.photobucket.com/user/gulalastbilen/media/20150609_201923_zpsy3nhkbdr.jpg.html)

All cylinder heads reworked. Gasket was wrongly placed just inside cleaning gasket. Will now be inside head and not possible to pop out when cylinder comes in end position. Today it's seems so unlogical to place it where I did from start but still learning:o

Wiskybilt
06-09-2015, 09:08 PM
Glad to see it working out for you. Seems like your looking a little closer to the finish line. That alone can be rewarding and disappointing at the same time.

D8R
06-14-2016, 06:52 AM
A short update:
Did try out latest changes yesterday, only to discover some leaks in 2 of the cylinders connections. Honda engine did not run well either, felt very weak.
So still no dirt moving, will probably leave machine at a friend to investigate what's coursing the problems.
Dan

9W Monighan
06-14-2016, 09:42 AM
Would that friend be in the United States?:bounce:

D8R
06-14-2016, 11:16 AM
Would that friend be in the United States?:bounce:

Guess you would be happy then, but sorry to say, it will still be in Sweden.
If I/we get it up and running it would of course be a challange to send it over to us to parcitipate at some shows.

D8R
09-11-2016, 03:21 PM
Today's report
Decided to haul dozer inte workshop again for dismantel.
The good side, have done it some times now and is very easy to brake down into pieces.
The bad side, I hate oil, and oily you get. Always oil in all tubings, valves and that is coming out when you don't want to.

http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/af270/gulalastbilen/20160911_194528_resized_zps1h1dgdbq.jpg (http://s1014.photobucket.com/user/gulalastbilen/media/20160911_194528_resized_zps1h1dgdbq.jpg.html)
As you can see everything has to be removed, incl one side of track to get hydraulic motors out. The valves (with blue servos) will be removed and replaced.

Decided is to seperate the 2 drive circuits from rest of hydraulics (blade , ripper, 463). If that will make dozer run is to be seen. The other hydraulics will be a seperate system with electrical driven pump, smaller valves, same as you guys use for models with bigger demand like excavators. Supplier can be Premacon or Tobias Breaker. With this change a complete new tank (diesel in 1:1 machine) will be built with new pump and motor built in. This is needed anyhow if, IF dozer should be electrified in the future (should have done that from beginning :mad:)

A question for you used to build with electric motors. Any suggestion of supplier? The size and design on dozer requier 120Nm torque on each side and with a 1:4 reduction in hub results in a 30Nm (rpm between 80 and 250 for correct speed). 12V or 24V? Type of elec. control?
Space available is W 7,5" L 20-24" H 8" for everything incl battery.
Thanks in advance.
Dan

9W Monighan
09-11-2016, 06:32 PM
Can you run the final drives with an electric motor/pump combination?

D8R
09-12-2016, 04:09 PM
Can you run the final drives with an electric motor/pump combination?

Having 2 options now:
1-gas engine/hydrostatic drive as today + electrical driven pump for blade/ripper
2-electrical driveline (complete new) + electrical driven pump for blade/ripper
Option 2 will need more rebuild than no 1 of course, but have other positives like running inhouse (if there's a floor for a 500lbs machine with steel tracks)

If I can find suitable motors incl 90 degree gearbox within spec above, that would be a good solution.

Dan

dozerbuilder
09-12-2016, 11:59 PM
Hey Dan. I did a lot of research for drive on my 1/16th CHTZ T-800 dozer and went electric for all the reasons you are considering.
http://www.rctruckandconstruction.com/showthread.php?t=11337

I chose 25amp (stall) car seat motors @ 12V. Of course yours is heavier than my 60lb weight model.

Have you considered 24V wheechair worm-drive gear-head 90 deg motors? They are very powerful and generally run around 100-200RPM which could be controlled with an ESC motor controller, maybe a Dimension Engineering 60Amp.

Like these on aliexpress:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2013-new-Wheelchair-Gear-Motor-Brushed-motor-24V-wheelchair-motor/1479201429.html

Or this type here:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/250w-24v-700rpm-low-speed-brush-motor-44mm-Longer-shaft-Shaft-Diameter-17mm-wheel-chair-used/32719954216.html?spm=2114.01010208.3.9.li5YNZ&ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_0,searchweb201602_3_100 57_10056_10065_10068_10055_10054_10069_10059_10058 _10073_10017_10070_10060_10061_10052_10062_10053_1 0050_10051,searchweb201603_3&btsid=8e713692-2414-4288-b241-17b1309b4cc1


They have all the engineering data you'd need to assess them. You could gear them down easily with say 06B ISO or 08B simplex chain drive at say 4:1 or 5:1 which would provide an output speed at the sprockets of approx 30-40rpm and would be very powerful.

D8R
11-15-2018, 11:41 AM
It's been a long time with nothing happening. now I think it's time to finalize this build :)
My thought now is to make it electric drive and get a new smaller hydraulic system for blade and ripper (like Premacon).
Have checked a lot motors from China and most can not be fitted inside frame.
So, question to you guys, what's your expirience with using motors from drillmachines. Here's a picture of one possible motor, a Makita drill with a very powerful motor (up to 110Nm). Model needs 30Nm on each side to get a prototypical drawbar so there's some extra and motors do not need to go at maximum power. Will try use speed control and battery incl with drill.
Picture in next reply (due to slow loading)
Dan

D8R
11-15-2018, 12:06 PM
https://scontent-arn2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/46291372_10212745655293042_145319887747678208_n.jp g?_nc_cat=109&_nc_ht=scontent-arn2-1.xx&oh=18aa17a10b33cbfd0ded30968e7685e7&oe=5C6EFF1D

frizzen
11-17-2018, 06:44 AM
https://scontent-arn2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/46291372_10212745655293042_145319887747678208_n.jp g?_nc_cat=109&_nc_ht=scontent-arn2-1.xx&oh=18aa17a10b33cbfd0ded30968e7685e7&oe=5C6EFF1D

I know some elect drills give a 2speed trans. If drill motors don't fit, i've also heard automotive Power Seat Motors can work pretty well

Cool project, that's pretty sweet.