View Full Version : My Mruder (bruder cat320 something look alike)
This will be a quick and disorganized run down since i have about 400 things on the honey do list for today alone.. hard to find me time lately.
This is a pooper scooper. Its job is to go in the reptile cage and turn over the soil. Not as hardcore as digging a basement ( i love that thread!), but it allows me to get away with building it less than milspec tough. Besides its all red clay out where i live; you aren't digging through that regardless.
At first i thought about simply converting the bruder cat but the thing is a joke and so I opted to make a lot of my own parts, just using the body canopy at the end. I thought about extending this as well to make it into a 40 or 60ton but I dont want another super long project to drag on. So it will stay as a 20 ton with a custom long reach arm, which is what i really need.
Initially i extended the lower arm on the stock cat, but it was still too small and the geometry was wrong as far as cyllinder and bucket control angles. So i machined one out of reinforced plastic stock. Drilled and tapped with 6mm sleeves and the shafts are 3mm hardened ss stock.
There are 2 of those holding the bucket itself, the epoxy is there to help keep it all centered as i mounted it and what not. most if not all of that will be cut away. The range of motion is phenomenal with the 172mm cylinder and the longer than scale bucket oscilting links.
To give you a size idea of mine vs the stock lower arm:
http://i.imgur.com/LJ1R0.jpg
The long arm is custom extended bruder one (3 extensions to get the proper geometry). I could cut that too out of plastic stock but i already invested a lot in the stock extension. Pics of that later when im done prettying it up. I still might cut one, depending on how much power i get out of the system - that solid plastic is heavy!
Quick test of the tracks section. This is weighted with lead (epoxy is a good bonding agent for that, again that will be machined away, prettied up and painted and hidden with top attached) and it weighs as it stands at close to 5lbs. I can make it 10lbs easy if i ballast it all. So there is room to play with that if COG is off down the road. Right now i left it as is since i have a few lbs in the top floor ballast. Also there will be a battery in the lower body for the turn table motor (it gets it's own battery yes - fewer wires to run between the 2 sections this way)
The servos are factory modified robotic servo motors producing over 100oz of torque each at 6v. This test is with an almost dead 4.8v pack and the throttle didn't go over 20% even here. Of course, friction on the floor was pretty slim so im quite i'll use all of the 200+oz down the road. If i really wanted to i could have made it a quad sprocket for over 400oz of power, but that's an overkill.. Could have also gone with direct motor drive (have them here) but i just WANTED to play with these awesome servo blocks. As you can see quite easy to mount and adjust height and position to get the perfect mesh with track and ground level. The tracks have also been extended a few links over stock. Width is the same; see comments above about making the body scale bigger.
I have the base plate, the turntable main floor - all that ready -1/8 and 1/4 t6 alum plate that was interesting cutting to shape. Waiting for some hardware to attach the bottom floor to the main beams. Then it's time to tinker with the hydraulics. I decided to stay brushed for now, using a cool new motor over the stock 540 can. It's shorter to boot.
The drive section will not be as scale as other's but this isn't a conversion per say. I will opt for function over realism any day when it comes to something like that. I will probably lose the H pattern the tracks section has but it's ok.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0fB9vQ8YkWk
Lil Giants
12-12-2012, 09:19 PM
Cleaning the reptile cage..? That should make for an interesting video.. titled Cat vs Snake should get you some views! :D
Red clay.. would that put you in the midwest somewhere between southern Kansas & Texas?
further down, southern red clay. slippery as ice when wet, hard as a rock when dry. there is a bit in between where it is mallable but our seasons have been either dry or monsoon the past few years.
took the cab out and i'll use that to store the electrics. The stock cab had no detail so no point in preserving it. I'll cut some lexan and make windows but that's about it.
http://i.imgur.com/Znf44.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/hhrRN.jpg
drilled the holes and mounted the main components. I have plenty of space for batteries and what not now. My valves came with the straight fittings and i ordered none first time around of the 90d ones. So i just put in another order for the swivel ones tonight. The good news is i can run the system with the straight ones so i can at least test it before the new ones arrive. Filter is hooked to the valve which is the shortest and weirdest connection i had to make so far. No kinks in the line or any real strain points.
The filter should be connected to the pressure line, right? P on pump > top of filter, bottom of filter to P on valve block?
Servos are in the mail. Ill try the 3153 futaba digital and see if that will fit. The HS55 is too short on the horn area and too long on the mount holes (which can be fixed). Futaba is slightly different sized, by a mm or so.
Next up, the boom.
the s3153 digital is a direct fit in the control valve! the 4 way default horn takes 30 seconds to cut and grind to size.
no reason to not use it over the 4.8v limited analog version.
mounted the turntable to the tracks today. still need to lower the rear sprockets about 1mm down to the ground.
http://i.imgur.com/tlkRI.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/rhCfz.jpg
Lil Giants
12-15-2012, 02:22 PM
The filter should be connected to the pressure line, right? P on pump > top of filter, bottom of filter to P on valve block?
Correct, filter the oil before entering the valve block.
Decided to test the rc4 cyllinders today since they are very stiff so i had some doubts about what it will take to get them to move. With your instructions from the other thread servo setup on the valve took less than 10 seconds, including remounting the horn. Thanks! So easy to zero it in i was surprised actually. Response is amazing with the digital unit. Not sure if the video shows it but i can feather the stick for instant response all along the range. I have mixes off but can turn those back on after the pump is broken in to further modulate the speed and power depending on stick pos.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5wHPCyrJkvg
12bar stock on this pump @ 29% power on the motor (can go all the way to 125% if i want to). Tried to hand grab the bucket and no dice. it kept moving so power is awesome from what i can see so far. Took it easy as the pump is still new but from what i can tell, no leaks on the leimbach gear.
Going to go test the other cyllinders now but i expect no leaks there either. If you can live with the 6mm mounting holes and the sizes they are in, they seem a great unit that you can get stateside. So far.
Back to working on the main boom now.
dabears
12-17-2012, 05:29 PM
Your conversion is coming along nicely! I have a bruder excavator i plan on doing as well i just havnt decided hydrolic or not yet
caterpillar
12-17-2012, 10:37 PM
great work, i will be following this build!
Lower boom after its first primer. Lots of little things left to smooth out. I should have just cut it out of solid stock. There is now enough metal (alum angles, u channels, threaded rods) in it to say that weight savings are nil.
The only weak point i can think of are the mounting ears for the short section. If those break though (can't see why unless i push it) i can make the whole part out of 1/4 stock. But for now i'll just carry on with the reinforced bruder ears, which i still need to trim out to get max travel. If they break i'll make a new part. If they dont, less work for me.
http://i.imgur.com/sFC2e.jpg
started working on the boom to chassis mounts. then i wore out my blades. waiting on the new one to get in, should be in tomorrow. i really have no tools to cut stainless. even aluminum destroys what i have in no time. hmmm.
also ordered a new esc to handle the voltage. the one i was using was only up to 8.6v and it didn't like the heat. good brushed escs are hard to come by it seems. but china to the rescue. got one up to 18v with built in cooling so i should be covered.
td9clyde
12-20-2012, 02:59 PM
2x12 sabertooth from robot market place or a 2x25 those are good up to 24 volt lol
too expensive, laughable amps.
Sabertooth 50HV Dual Motor
is nice but for that price i can go so many better routes. robotic escs are really way behind hobby ones for some reason.
they are still stuck in the 80s
Began working on mounting the main boom (which will use another detail over before the paint goes on)
http://i.imgur.com/3ALkU.jpg
had to chop up the cyllinders a bit at the base and replace a few 13mm orings. 1 due to my fault, the other chipped from the factory and leaking. anyhow, i couldnt mount the boom today because I decided to go with 5mm shaft vs the original 6mm. the outer collar for the 6mm is way too thick requiring too much material removal for my taste (less material = less strenght). 5mm i can go down to 8mm OD or 10mm OD vs 13mm OD for the 6mm shaft which is used for the cyllinders themselves.
parts are on order for that part. as soon as i mount the base of the boom i'll be able to begin cutting and bracing the little "ears" to shape and make them all pretty along with any other metal pieces i need to pretty up. i wont leave them square :)
in other news, the body is getting extended. why, you'll see later. simple version: its too small. but i'll cheat! i'll extend the upper canopy and just add solid material to the base plastic on the outside.
so much for a quick and fast build eh. you know, you double the boom and go with 14mm bore hydraulics, and expect to keep the stock bruder. im such a noob..
in other other news... leimbach uses 4mm holes on the pump and filter, 3mm on the valve and reservoir.
my last batch of 90d connectors only fit half the joints. but at ~7euros for 1 of the 4mm ones, i might just ignore them.
it was a busy night.
as soon as i mount the lower boom and machine the mounts to shape i'll be able to drop down the guts and begin wiring it up.
http://i.imgur.com/Qzv6X.jpg
i love the hitachi orange. never cared for the puke cat yellow.........
Lil Giants
01-03-2013, 03:20 PM
Gosh!! that's quite a reach.. you using a block of lead for a counterweight?
ihbuilder
01-03-2013, 03:37 PM
:eek: 1st thing I thought was an old 6644 Koehring .
RCP57
01-03-2013, 04:11 PM
Probably out reach my Volvo! It will be more fun to play with having a longer reach though IMO.
Gosh!! that's quite a reach.. you using a block of lead for a counterweight?
Oh there is lead.. and more can be added if needed. I didnt go overboard since the tracks are well.. plastic. But i figure with the batteries (3 of those) et al in there it should be more than enough.
1st thing I thought was an old 6644 Koehring
I googled that. the boom is eerily similar. Thing is i still have to fiddle with the body since the twin cyllinders can't fit in the space of the stock clearance width wise. I might just make a new smaller cab for it. 1/2 the cab = 2x the tonnage. :D Will deal with this when i get there. It just might turn into a koehring by the time im done with the styrene.
Probably out reach my Volvo! It will be more fun to play with having a longer reach though IMO.
big booms are bigger fun and imo just looks better.
And speaking of booms, i got it mounted tonight.
http://i.imgur.com/KsfAT.jpg
i think it can go higher, not sure if this was the max position when i took the photo. i took the turntable pinion out so im using a tool to hold it from spinning :o
http://i.imgur.com/SpcAn.jpg
sideways balances just fine. empty deck.
i was copying the geometry of this thing: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rchz0ob8sAk
hopefully the angles arent too crazy for the model version and the boom doesn't stall. if it does, well i'll just have to recut new ears and remount in another position. we will know soon enough
bolted the hyds in and tested the tracks and turntable. tracks have loads of power and turntable could use a slower motor (i was trying to calculate it but i overshot a bit). instead of 27rpm final its more like 40. it works fine as long as you dont go all the way on the stick, but like i said, just a matter of swapping the motor unit for a lower rpm one. overal im very happy
now, initially i planned on using 1 battery in the chassis to power the turntable and feed the rest of wires between the 2 halves. that would of course give me a limit to the numbers of turns you can make before wires get twisted.
tonight after some beers i had the stupid idea of trying 2 receivers to 1 radio at the same time. lucky for me (hitec is my deity now!), that actually worked (some dont).
so i have optima 9 upper deck, optima 6 lower deck. 0 cables between body and chassis. i can spin it round for hours :D
lower receiver is channels 1 (track1),2(track2) and 6(turntable esc) and upper is 3 4 5 (valve block) 7 (pump esc). perfect. still have 8, 9 on the upper as spares for whatever i might add.
no videos etc as it is 4am and i just got out of bed to test that theory.
trying to see the best way to get it all in there. i ended up with more space than i thought would be. ignore my sloppy dremel grind marks. that's what the hood is for.
ordered the styrene and will fiddle with the canopy. as if i needed another styrene project, but it has to be done.
http://i.imgur.com/Y0qmL.jpg
mounted and wired everything up today, began working on the underside skirt (just to make things pretty on the undercarriage).
i have 1 leaking cyllinder.. could be my fault since when i took them apart i might have nicked the oring in the process.. the one i didnt replace. so new orings in that size are in order.
the good news is the geometry is perfect on everything and no other leaks.
got one air lock up the main boom due to not bleeding it properly but took care of that.
video after i fix my leak
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=coURIJHQLn8
Lil Giants
01-19-2013, 04:31 PM
Quite a wide range of movement! What's the reach @ ground level?
Pump sounds slower than it should be.. what the rpm of the motor you substituted? Batteries full charge?
Now for the vid in the snake tank w/the snake. :D
I was getting lots of leaks on the 210mm piston. seals kept getting cut and what not. ended up beveling all edges to prevent that upon assembly.
rpm is low as this is my bleeding speed. i need to turn it up. how could you tell tho lol
i'll measure the reach once im done with the tracks section canopy. i don't want to get anything dirty yet because im using the kitchen counters as a table now. all my machinery is on that floor of the house and im not running up and down to my usual RC bunker.
the small arm was designed to level almost horizontally on the pull, but after testing by hand the pull force seemed excessive to get it to that position, so i cut the mount for that cyllinder a little forward, so the arm bends more than it levels. makes sense? otherwise the space is there. i might rework it down the road.
Lil Giants
01-20-2013, 04:17 AM
A white lithium grease works well for lube on o rings & sharp edges, and it then dissolves in oil well too.
I've been listening to the whine of that pump for over a decade now, I know how it should sound when running at optium speed. ;) :D I'm curious to see what your cyl cycle speed is like when you do tune the pump to 6000rpm (est)? I've been thinking for awhile of installing a Leimbach pump & valves into this HK hoe I have with the oem cyls.
No need to get your hoe dirty to measure the ground level reach... while on the kitchen floor, measure from the center point of the house pivot to the very tip of your bucket with the arm fully stretched out along the floor... my 850 is 1400mm, as an example.
I understand what you're saying, and yes it does take alot of hyd power to nearly level the stick, especially with a bucket full of dirt.. it's a negative leverage. ;)
Your custom Mruder is taking shape nicely in just over a month.. your early pics of hacking & wacking & gobbs of expoxy widen my eyes with much WTFism!!! :eek: :D Now I'm looking forward to seeing it in motion. :cool: ..especially with the snake in the same area. :D
I meant dirty as in digging video
The reach is ~2.5ft up, down, across. 1400 comes to 4.5ft. that's insane. i cannot counterbalance that long of a boom on this thing anyway. after i beef up the top side to a scale body, i will be maxing the undercarriage to its "looks small" limit. and i even stretched that 1" over stock as is. i considered making a totally custom bottom out of robotics tracks and what not, but that would push into another realm of expensive and labor intensive
http://i.imgur.com/qGAwnL8.jpg
66% rpm
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7qxv4-eXdoY
82%
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iV4BSQLdaGc
I am getting a lot of foaming in the tank and it sometimes overflows when the main boom is lowered all the way down, then when it's raised, it runs low on fluid as you can hear/see. That leaking piston isn't helping any either im sure.
http://i.imgur.com/FbPs4VX.jpg
I need a bigger fluid tank. Any way i can jerry rig one on top of the stock without screwing up the venting system? All bigger capacity pump/tank combos were special order so i didn't go for them.
Epoxy i know.. i have never done that before honestly. Not on such large scale anyway. I have 0 access to CNC, or cad skills to even produce a model for 3rd party machining. The 2 companies in the area that do custom cnc produced a look of utter disbelief so this was a no go. So it's hand tools only and unorthodox approches to everything on this build it seems
ordered another 210mm one. this one i couldn't rescue. i resealed it so many times with all sizes of orings but still not good enough. issue is there is only 1 oring @ shaft and that one is supposed to both seal the shaft and the casing where the shaft goes. if you try to oversize it, it won't fit. if you go smaller to seal shaft tighter, the casing area leaks.
their quality control is pretty bad. 1/4 bit the dust. thats 25% failure rate? i know i know sample size too small to claim that but we will see if replacement is good
Well fixed my leaks and in my attempts to get the reservoir to not overflow (its just too small ) in a fit of brilliance i decided to plug both vent holes. half a second later i blew the cap out and am still mopping up fluid. what a nightmare. pump side seals should be fine. the cap just flew out (its held in by an oring apparently).
anyway doesn't matter because i will have to extend the reservoir. im thinking pipe/spacer stock and some creativity with jbweld. we shall see.
the big leim pump is NLA. id much rather buy the 480ml one with the big tank but what can you. unless somebody can point me where it is available?
dabears
01-24-2013, 08:41 PM
Looking pretty good!!!
Lil Giants
01-25-2013, 03:33 AM
What does NLA mean?
I'd just put an extention on the exsisting tank, pretty simple lathe job to make a sleeve joint, then epoxy in place.
Those large cyls you have, similar to my 850, the piston rod is quite thick, probably less than half the volume of oil on rod side vs piston side.. greatest reason why the boom drops like rock! I have the EPA set to 70% to go down & even then it's rather sensitive, especially with screener.
No Longer Available.
picked up the perfect 6061 pipe stock i can sleeve over; 1.37id vs 1.36 od for the stock leimbach. jbweld should seal it well. im not even going to attempt to weld that! im glad i live an hour away from a mcmaster warehouse. lifesaver i tell you.
i set programming mixes now. pump idle is at 30 and it goes up to 60 with a single valve use (faster results in no higher speed that i can visually note). then when 2 are activated it runs at close to 90. 3 pushes 100. this gives me enough flow to move all cyllinders at once for short times without killing the pump or pulling massive battery amps constantly. i will likely tweak these down the road. but my experiment was cut short last night as i mentioned
began extending the body as well. more on that later down the road when i have something complete to show. i'll make a whole new canopy and cab, scaling it to at least a 60ton machine. no particular brand on model. i'll also double my counterbalance.
the rod is something like 7.5mm D (odd number i know) at first i thought they were 6mm but that is not the case. 14mm inside diameter of the tube. i am using digital servos @6v so control is more precise than my frame skipping camera shows. although there is grat momentum on the downward swing. i can rock the whole model if i stop the boom suddenly.
Pump is done, even kept the clear plastic cap so you can see the level. Managed to actually bleed the system properly and get no more foam/air/bubbles/goo in there. Capacity is now a little over twice stock, around 2.1 times stock due to the larger bore of the extension.
If i had the space i would run 2 pumps. 1 for the main boom and the other for the bucket and arm, but no space means it isn't happening in that build. I am loving the big bore of the cyls so i am not downgrading those to more leimbach friendly sizes (i guess nothing over 10mm).
I am drawing a lot of power, eatin up 3400mah or so in a few minutes. I will eventually check power draw and see if i have to go to a higher turn motor. I know that without the fan this one overheats... Likely a torque issue. I was trying to go brushless speeds on a brushed but seems i've overdone it a bit. But ive decided to go nuts on battery at 12800mah main and 2800mah for the undercarriage. so ultimately it doesnt matter i suppose......
Started working on the cab.. Got the new counterweight extension and base area completed. I can now scale up the body into at least a 60ton and add a few more lbs of counterweight.
Lil Giants
02-04-2013, 05:15 PM
The Leimbach excavator cyls are 14mm, the speed seems slow some times too.
The current draw is about 2.1 amps with no cyl movement, 1.1 amps with cyls moving.
My Stahl track hoe, I had one 2700mAh running just the pump & another 2700mAh to run the rest of the model. The pump batt lasted about 40mins & the other was hours. That's with the Johnson that comes with the pump.
I was drawing something like 5 amps if i am to trust my meter.. After reducing the speed i consumed 1400MAH every 15 minutes on the same motor. But getting the speed up by another 15% tripled the draw.
Got my new torquemaster 45turn in today, haven't tested it yet since i have the thing apart but im hoping to do that tomorrow after i paint the undercarriage. Speaking of that
http://i.imgur.com/iynCvbm.jpg
Some early stages of the cab. It is not supposed to look like anything real in particular. I was experimenting with front windshield angles and this one i liked best.
http://i.imgur.com/E8OTCvv.jpg
Here you can see the new scale of the machine. The new counterweight will allow me to add about 8lbs of ballast on top of what i already have (im still deciding how high i want to make it, hence as you see it is not really closed up yet). Side to side i've extended 1/4" each way; total of 1/2" (any bigger will look funny on the carriage after i add the walking ramps) Front is about 1/2" and about the same in the rear. So total about 1" of lenght added. Dimmensions are almost identical to a liebher 944 now.
http://i.imgur.com/HsOukKr.jpg
The undercarriage... 2 3s lipos for the drive servos (~250oz torque @ 6v), a full size ESC with active brakes forward and reverse, a 6ch receiver, the turntable and the BEC all fit in there. Want to finish trimming it up and pulling out the switches and charge plugs tonight so i can paint it tomorrow. It goes down all sides, not just on top.
It cannot look any more scale and support the weight and have the unlimited rotation of the body.. I planned it more scale but decided function over form. It is a small model :\ I have the entire beam support system around the sprocket servos, vs gluing them to the side like everybody else does. It will carry a lot of weight which was the point. Stock bruder buckled so there went that idea.
Turntable and bearing are rated at something stupid like 200lbs distributed weight but with the hollow shaft call it 100lbs. Plenty! I do have a solid shaft too but what's the point. This one ain't bending
Its raining buckets so no painting can take place. Instead if took the boom apart and inspected the joints. No stress damage so it was time to address something that has bugged me.
recut the stick and made a whole new mount to allow for full range of motion in both directions.
Also loving the new motor. Much quieter.
http://i.imgur.com/hAx9LWE.jpg
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pje467gi0GE
full functions test a success. I walked it out there under its own power (no way to film and operate it at the same time, will have to tripod later).
And found another problem. The incline getting down on the deck from the inside ran the hydro dry despite it being 3/4 full. so now i have to rebleed (hence my limited use of the pump in the video). unfortunately there is no way around that with the leim system. and that's why folks vario has a 50 gallon reservoir in there, to avoid things like that among others. i remember people saying how big theirs was.. well now i personally know why. inclines are bad :i
but that asides, im happy. now i can finish up the bodywork and maybe add some details and i am done.
i am already thinking of my next excavator with a true scale underbody and lots more metal (and a better pump! and maybe valves if i could find any)
Forgot to mention, current weight is 20.08LBs. I expect to top at 25 with the extra ballast. Right on my target of 20-30lbs final weight. :)
Styrene work last night and some earth box testing. none of that you can see here.
Today it was time to give it a real test
Keep in mind my yard is packed gravel and clay; Not natural earth by any means.. years down i still can't even get grass to grow despite me dumping topsoil and what not on there. Anyway learned a few things today.
I was awkward on the controls because my fingers were freezing and im still a noob as is.
dont care about the tracks..but it made me laugh; yes i was trying to turn it.... yes they are too loose, no i never made a working tensioner. no im not making one now. yes i have spare tracks.
because
new SCALE all metal undercarriage will be coming soon! this one is mainly to just screw around with. its the top side im concerned about and it performed flawlessly. numerous hydro stalls and nothing broke!
yes i remated and rebalanced the motor/pump connection last night. was off center or something resulting in scary sounds. didnt know it was even possible to kink that but i guess it is!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2s6qQYe5w6A
Some better shots of the cab..
http://i.imgur.com/xI375WK.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/dyOmWzE.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/yiI31Fp.jpg
Haven't decided if the door will be a slider or a hinge.
As well as other details like window guards (super tedious to make). Interior.. not sure. the floor will be separate and the cab will slide atop the floor piece. Once i put the glass in and see how much visibility is there i'll decide if i will go for the full interior..
It's officially no longer a bruder look alike.. And will use 0 bruder components when im done with the new carriage. I'll change/get the topic changed once it's done. More on that soon enough. Also other things are in the works, such as exchangeable booms. Not buckets, booms. I really want a double articulated one like you can get on the liebherr, just much bigger. STC makes them in real scale
http://i.imgur.com/ZUuZ7qW.jpg
prototype 1 of the track carriers has been sent for milling. no holes for idler and sprocket yet as i'll add these manually (or calculate them later and send for remilling).
2 plates for each track..
and have made my choice. cabin door will be a hinge.
Lil Giants
02-17-2013, 12:27 PM
The snowball effect has now begun! :D
you are telling me. scaled it all properly for the veroma tracks and idlers.
here is a better idea of how it is going to sit. their sprocket uses 8mm bore but i will run 6mm like the idler and sleeve bearing it in the middle so it comes out to 8. then use the set screw to cap onto the 6mm shaft itself (my chain sprockets and hubs et all are 6mm so thats why going 8 would be harder than going from 6 to 8 on the sprocket itself). and a bunch of other boring stuff nobody cares about that i will be working around in the coming weeks.
http://i.imgur.com/lSKixVJ.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/LaxJB3e.jpg
14" long by 12" wide (outside to outside of tracks). I love oversized demolition bodies and that's what i am making.
Lil Giants
02-17-2013, 02:47 PM
I like how you have it all closed up, keeps the foriegn material out of the track links. http://www.scale4x4rc.org/forums/images/smilies/nice.gif
http://i.imgur.com/hiqBHA0.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/IlMF6Yw.jpg
as you can see i am short on rollers and stuff..... (ordered last night) but you get the idea. the bolts i'll have to cut because they are partially threaded and thats the only lenght that would work for me (45mm total). the plug fasteners which would be way better only come in imperial and i need metric. bugger that. no its not imperial i can adapt either. something stupid like 1/8 1/4 etc. nothing close to 4mm.
i could also go with 4mm shafting and collars but cutting those hardened shafts is a pita. and thats a lot of shafts! i'll try the bolts first. 8.8 steel is not too bad to cut actually.
i think i'll call it a day now.
I drank some coffee so decided to get some more done. I have been racking my head around the turntable for a while but i refuse to spend 400$ on the one from fumotec. besides, i cannot because my body upper plate is already drilled for the 3/8-1/2" bore .770 pattern. And that plate is drilled for the hydros and for the ballast. No go changing that really. Too much pain at this stage.
Anyhow my original turntable worked just fine, alas it was too tall and too long (and close to 5", which i cut down to 4 initially).
scouring my usual sources i found nothing better, thus it was time to just go for it.
Cut the height to 1/3 original and shortened it so it's a square. will machine finetune and smooth cuts tomorrow when it stops raining. Can't handle the metal dust indoors anymore. I will have to make new flush mounts and also load distributing mounts but thats to be expected. I tried to make it internal chain drive and get rid of the big gear on top, but couldn't fit the sprocket inside by 2mm! Still might do it with another mount hub.
http://i.imgur.com/hXEJ2OG.jpg
next to a standard cap for size.
http://i.imgur.com/3Ko1Csj.jpg
GROUND CLEARANCE! At this height i barely clear the top tracks so i can create a proper V pattern main section. Will take some creativity as it will house the 2 batteries, receiver, esc, worm gear drive, 2 track servos (i am going chain drive to track sprockets, 2:1 reduction for 400+ oz torque). Waiting on the worm motor from china; have all the rest.
can you give a link or details on the worm drive from hong kong?
it's just a gearbox motor with a worm box instead of a planetary like what you generally see with these.
its nice because it isn't tall saving you space so you can have a flat undercarriage, also its worm gear so you dont need esc hold function to prevent turret from spinning or momentum from taking over.
its not nice because they are rather low torque compared to planetary rpm per rpm but with worm gears that's not really a big factor. you can't really stall them like you can with bevels/pinions
http://www.ebay.com/itm/12vdc-44rpm-dc-worm-gear-motor-with-gear-reducer-dc-motor-/221191964089?pt=Race_Car_Parts&hash=item33801185b9&vxp=mtr
I drew up the main plate today but didn't cut it. however once i overlaid it, it got me thinking. There is a new product out there like a 1" tall gearmotor that makes crazy torque @ 90rpm (70oz). I am going to fiddle with 4 of these along with 6t pinions.
Currently im running a single 77oz motor and am able to push dugged up earth sideways quite easy.... but i want more. so i figure i'll quadruple the power if this idea work, AND have even more space left over. if that doesn't work i'll go with the worm drive.
Decided to finish up my box today... Halfway in drilling the 2nd plate (out of 4) my extrator drill bit snaps.. the standard ones won't even dent the 2" deep plates...
So thats it for now.
I'll have them sloping when im done. Holes are recessed bored so i can use sturdy socket heads instead of the snapping pan heads.
http://i.imgur.com/xJK2Qwy.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/C5VnuCn.jpg
box is done, tracks mounted.. all lines up perfect. i was measuring within .5mm accuracy. i figured any more and it would be an overkill. but i think i came to less than that at the end. and yes thats 3/8 alum plates. this width allows me to recess the screws properly.
still need to decide on the slant angle (you can see it drawn out roughly) and slot out the chain drive zones. more on those later.
also bought a tekin fxr pro to replace the chinese esc. it worked fine but for some reason it thinks anything over 80% is 100% rpm... so anyway, bought a new one. really not many options for brushed motors left out there it seems.
my new bearings for the turntable (abec5) and motors are due today.. assuming usps didnt forget to load them on the truck this morning. i may or may not make a reinforced turntable mount. Won't know until <-- these parts get here today and i get to measure it all with the pinions attached
Finished the turntable, mounted the motors. I feel i nailed the speed and torque this time around.
Added a reinforcement plate to eliminate any main floor twist during stress on the carriage
Redid the mount on the body section. I decided i needed to simplify the way to separate the 2 halves since it was a complete nightmare when i went to pull and reattach last night. Too much weight, too many hoses in the way etc. Now the whole gear and shaft pull out.
In my quest of making this serviceable, i noticed i will have to rip off vario and make a riser plate for the hydraulics on top of the floor. this way i can remove that instead of going under the body and unscrewing each component.
Still deciding on what method to use to make the hoses detachable from the block. those quick disconnects at 8 euro each i dont really trust. looks like leaks waiting to happen. might just go with the hose couplers; those dont have the sharp barbs so you can pull the hose off them easily.
ordered a few liters of oil and some other stuff the other day. atop of my tracks still being in the mail. german post is taking their time after breaking all records and getting here in 4 days the other time.
might also be a good time to order my premacon wide bucket. they say 2 weeks lead time but i dont know if i want to trust that.. also if anybody knows of better options let me know. im new to the whole contruction thing so my sources are limited.
now that i have it all apart i can do some painting on those parts i didnt get to before and then photos.
i started on the body panels but scrapped that as im still changing the height. i thought of making it out of metal, and even bought some parts but... i dont know. i'll probably just stick to styrene. i doubt i have the desire to drag that out any longer. already put my other toys on hold and with summer coming fast down here, i need my offroaders working.
Lil Giants
03-01-2013, 09:39 PM
Make a one piece body like the Vario that easily lifted, I luv that feature! everything wide open in easy view to tinker. ;)
You gotta get busy building a dumptrk fella! :D
Yep it will be one piece. Decided on that months ago. Which is why my upper section looks a bit weird still
Made the 2 platforms. One for the hydros and one for the electronics so they wont get soaked during future leaks.
Started working on the main boom details, namely the edge extrusions. Im adding those as beads just for looks and might make caps around the ram attachment points.
Meanwhile here is a little preview of what else i am doing. Wrapping it all with 1/8 plates. I tried to weld them last night but too much heat warped stuff up so i gave up on that. I'll just screw them and finish the joints/edges with epoxy. That's why i spent little time making neat joints. I am doing this just for fun so when you touch it, it's cold. when you crash it against something, it scratches realistically.
http://i.imgur.com/IdVol5l.jpg
Cut and covered the undercarriage. Forgot to snap a pic of that, too lazy to go back down so next time.
Tracked up one side as well. 62 track pads per side... or 930mm. 1860mm in tracks altogether.
I am further adjusting the attachment between the 2 sections (body/undercarriage). I'll be pushing 40lbs now when done, vs my old 25lbs.
Made the huge mistake of ordering from onlinemetals.. a week to ship and they are drop shipping each piece on its own from all over the country. no tracking #s either. they just show at the door at random. never again. scammers.
on the flip side, 3rd order from mcmaster this week came in today so i could get some more work done..
http://i.imgur.com/IEx2hz3.jpg
Spent about 2 days making the boom pretty.... im also working on the stick but that is drying so no photos.
Still needs a few more coats (got too cold, had to stop painting), some decals and then a clearcoat just to seal decals in.
http://i.imgur.com/iyJK6e5.jpg
decided the track boogies looked too much like a ww1 tank so i added some metal to bulge the outside a bit.... still working on the final shape but it also allows me to hide the cross bolts...
http://i.imgur.com/eBU63p8.jpg
progressing on building out the lower body. the screw holes i'll probably fill in when all is said and done. they aren't even since i don't want to risk seam splitting even though i drilled them out quite well.
http://i.imgur.com/A9iwTvU.jpg
the center carriage section... i tried to weld the 2 sides to the top but too much heat.. however i figured out how to attach them. i will show you later.
The only time you will see the turntable mounting gear and spurs.
http://i.imgur.com/l2dg3yI.jpg
i have so much clean up to do its not funny.. I should have really just scrapped the original parts and cut new ones. but too late for that, so i'll waste my time cleaning up and making covers..
dabears
03-08-2013, 06:24 PM
I think its looking great so far!!! Awesome work
Well this was supposed to be a conversion.. hah!
Started building my own 10oz oil tank. The aim is to be able to dig with the machine tilted at 45d in any direction and not suck air in the pump port.
After wondering of a way to be able to connect an external tank to the pump, it was a no go. It is some weird square bevelled intake port and the return ports are some odd size too.. no go there.
Then i began playing with dubro tanks and the faucet and came up with a design that will keep the intake oiled at all angles i can throw at it.
After a few weeks the jb weld shows no reaction to the oil (its watered down toy hydro oil anyway, bet you it can live inside styrene as well - my next experiment!) so i can use that to weld and seal the new tank... I was thinking .090 plates but went with .040 to maximize capacity. It's plenty strong.
More later after i go to mcmaster tomorrow. I only got a few pieces cut tonight before i ran out of .040 sheeting. Speaking of that, finished the .125 encasting of the body and couterweight and began filling in the screw holes. Liking the way its coming out. A bit like a mining excavator but not quite. Also began cutting out the channels for the chain drives. got my chain resizer in as well.
Also building my own bucket. I have to start keeping costs down, this is out of control.
http://i.imgur.com/3JqCxcO.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/CKLWxKD.jpg
I am fitting in each plate and when i have it all lined up up i'll cut the teeth out of the front and then seam weld any gaps and grind smooth. Then i'll make and attach the side scoops and what have you not. Since i cannot extrude or bend metal, i am forced to piece it together. What a monumental pain drilling and tapping all that...... Although screwing them in allows me to remove each and adjust as needed. I thought about making the teeth removable but (like a tooth comb), i dont think i'll wear these out so scrapped that idea.
Width is 90mm inside and lenght.. not even sure. Probably scales up to 6cubic yards if we assume bruder went with the biggest 2.5cy bucket in their model.
Also worked some more on the cab. I should start on the rock guards soon and then i can paint and attach the glass.
ps. also remade the turntable motor mounts last night and cut out the chain holes through the chassis. mounting the servos will be a bit tricky since im blind holing it.. the bigger mounts wouldn't fit so i have to blind drill from the bottom so to speak.. there are ways around that but just fiddly.. so fiddly. i was actually off by 1 .2mm shim on the turntable motors for a perfect side to side symmetry. not bad for eyballing it! one side took 2 .2mm shims and the other 1 to get the same gear mesh.
http://i.imgur.com/JP6DNZN.jpg
the rough cut on the rake. going to finish it up tomorrow in the light. the teeth and the space in between them is slanted. i think i'll sharpen it all to a very child unfriendly degree.......
screwed in and welded the rest of the bucket, except this piece here. once i finish it up, its going in and getting seamed in. then attach my mount and call it a day. should do it tomorrow.
my latest batch of stuff from germany made it in today so yay. have to pick it up tomorrow.
deburred and resealed the control valve. 4mmX1mm seals on the plungers. if it still leaks... i'll be upset. but not too much, as i am thinking of upgrading to the 5 valve one.
ps. 3rd broken tap. 3mm is a nightmare to tap apparently due to size. at 8$ each it gets old fast. i am not getting any chip clearing really, so i have to back in and out little by little till its all threaded in. each time clean the debris out of the hole. if you go a hair too deep at once it snaps, usually on the counterspin.. blind holes, no issue with through holes.
also need to go pick up some more of that awesome hitachi orange from ace.
http://i.imgur.com/Ah06NcU.jpg
began making my own coupler.. I could just mount the bucket directly like last time but couplers are cool. I am mounting first, then trimming when needed and then trimming for looks. Enjoy the squareness until i get to that stage :)
Also redid the articulation links. I toyed with the idea of cutting a new H link out of solid metal, but im trying to keep weight down at this point. So i just used some standoffs to bolts between the 2 links and make a lightweight, althought not scale looking H link. It will do.
http://i.imgur.com/JYxV6h3.jpg
As you see i have to cut and regrind the stick yet again. needs more taken off the underside. Originally i didn't even have space for washers between the mount points. Which resulted in my paint getting all scratched up where there was contact. Now i am leaving enough space for at least 1mm shims on either side. Just little things here and there i suppose.
This brings me to adventures in metalworking. I am a total beginner in that but im figuring things out. Not a fan of the bucket screws but they will stay for strenght. I alumiwelded the gaps and what not between the pieces then grinded it down smooth. Put a coat of filler (still to sand that) over to cover any microcracks and prevent water from freezing in when i leave it outside.. Because it will happen.
Now alumiweld is something like solder mixed with liquid aluminum. It is weird, it doesn't behave like solder and is really made out as a filler and not as a structural weld due to its hit or miss bonding. You can bead it and parts will grip like crazy and other sections won't; it appears it is very sensitive to heat both on it and on the surface. Underheating or overheating will not let it stick properly or at all. That's why i am leaving the screws in. Anyhow, it is cheap compared to the specialty metal filled epoxies at 60$/oz. You can tap it even. It is just weird to apply and has selective adhesion (or very specific application needs which looking at the array of videos, nobody has quite figured out yet). For the price i am happy with it and it got me the rounded shape i wanted.
I dont know if i will add the side flaps on the bucket. I started putting in a little cuve and might just extend that. As i said, weight that far out is adding up. I still have to add the mounts to the bucket itself so more weight.
PS. i wanted to make a bucket, i may still get a premacon one. But unless you make it yourself, how will you learn right...
doodlebug
03-16-2013, 11:55 AM
ps. 3rd broken tap. 3mm is a nightmare to tap apparently due to size. at 8$ each it gets old fast. i am not getting any chip clearing really, so i have to back in and out little by little till its all threaded in. each time clean the debris out of the hole. if you go a hair too deep at once it snaps, usually on the counterspin.. blind holes, no issue with through holes.
What size tap drill are you using? look at your chart, go for 80% or less thread's, to help prevent the tap's from binding and breaking. Hopefully the pro's will chime in on this!
Cheer's, Neil.
2.5mm which is what is recommended on the tap list.
used 2.7 as well but wasn't happy with the thread bite. it was certainly easier going tho
doodlebug
03-16-2013, 04:39 PM
2.5mm which is what is recommended on the tap list.
used 2.7 as well but wasn't happy with the thread bite. it was certainly easier going tho
Is there a letter or number drill, that would give you a better fit? What are you using for cutting fluid?
Cheer's, Neil.
Alum is soft and doesnt generate enough heat to use oil (especially the alloys i am using).. dont need it do i.. i mean i dont know, wouldnt think so.
Had to cut painting short today, rain is annoying. But i did get a few coats on my bucket and coupler, still needs more. im still contemplating if i want to just complete the curve cut, make lower side scoops or both. i can do either at any point now so i'll worry about it later.
http://i.imgur.com/ZXF57p0.jpg
would have done the lower body/base as well if weather cooperated. it's ready for paint now
also shimmed one track with all rollers and returns. i need to cut a few more shafts for the idler and sprocket. but i did get both sprockets sleeved from 8mm to 6mm shaft. it was a slight pain because i had to get the set screw holes to line without bending or destroying the sleeve. drill press was a no go.
finishing up the cab, newish hydro tank and what not. im trying to do one thing every day without adding 2 more on the to do list. good news is i can cheat under the excuse of this being my first const build. convenient :)
http://i.imgur.com/Eyt1Kmu.jpg
figuring out the proper lenght.. waiting on some spacers around the roller bolts.
http://i.imgur.com/LoLIHG2.jpg
that's done.
so is this. bugger you cant edit posts after like 2 minutes.
http://i.imgur.com/QmgAJGN.jpg
Lil Giants
03-20-2013, 02:57 PM
Just curious... what does your boom/stick/bucket weigh all together?
5lbs before the hoses, fittings, cyls and fluid.
Lil Giants
03-20-2013, 03:39 PM
That's pretty heavy! I think most of your problem with surging oil out of your tank is from letting the boom drop too fast (just b/c how heavy the boom is). You could limit valve opening by lowering epa rotation considerably, then you won't have such a rush of oil filling the tank.
My 850's boom is really heavy (didn't weigh it) and I limited the epa on the down to 60% , plus careful control on the tx.
Also, I use Suflo cutting oil from Gunk for all drilling, milling, threading of aluminum, keeps the alloy from sticking/gumming up the bits. I have never broken a 3mm tap, and I use a 18v Milwaukee drill to make a quick job of it.
the boom is actually weight balanced at the lift point pivot. stick and bucket throw it off though. can't really balance for that
it's surging because the original leim was designed for cyls 1/3 to 1/2 of what i am using. and for less of them. just not enough space for the fluid to go when the pistons push in. then when they push out, you have to keep it full past the 3/4 (more like 10/12) to avoid the pickup from getting dry, since the pickup is really 1/3 off the bottom. so really the design is only 1/3 of the tank being usable - pathetic!
the one that is in the wedico is the big version, both in tank and pump ml/m. however that is not available outside wedico kits.. that tank is actually as big as what i have right now, and still not enough.
i've fixed that with a yet another expansion of the fluid tank. (total 3x original capacity). i wanted to make a 10oz tank and started cutting it out, but as i lay the pieces together noticed that would have really thrown off my canopy and made it way unscale. so i dropped that idea for a yet another expansion of the miniscule oem one.
will try the oil for future taps. just that only time i used it is with carbide bits into hard steel due to heat. never even thought about aluminum, especially with hand tapping (tried machine tapping too but very hard to control blind holes)
i might have to limit the epa on the downward now. good idea
doodlebug
03-21-2013, 12:21 PM
I use "rapid tap" the aluminum version for both drilling and tapping.
Cheer's, Neil.
I have enough scrap blocks to play with. Though i am pretty much done with tapping for this project.
Worked some on the cab... my mini dubro hinges arrived so with some trimming, they will work great.
Meanwhile decided i would assemble and paint this thing here because i wanted to. Then i decided i would sand parts of it.... I'll recoat with a lighter paint on the inside.
http://i.imgur.com/0oqpzCw.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/myyEyAn.jpg
began making my cab guard.. if i can find them, i will mount some cool lights under the ledge. leds i can fit, its the casings that will be an issue finding that small that look good (or i could just make my own, fiddly but if it has to be done... hmm!). not sure if i want to make a front piece or just the top one. once i mount and offset this one i'll decide.
gotta love shrinking putty but i found that the tamiya one, once it shrinks, it doesnt deform over time and it really sticks great to the styrene. so i just overply it/layer it till it fills up. looks scary i know!
there is no floor because the floor will be a separate piece. this way i can take it out and maybe do an interior at some point. although i really want to put in a wireless camera in there so i can dig from the comfort of my home...... then again, i can just make 2 floors. 1 with interior, the other with FPV and exchange them as needed. but i am getting ahead of myself.
i forgot to mention, my replacement seals came in. i actually got in 2 orders before they arrived. took like 2 months. figured i would mention that before i forget. deutche post is weirdddddddddddd. sometimes 4 days (really!), and then 8 weeks.
Another correction for those who actually read everything. the drive servos are rated at 212OZ/17RPM @6v, not at 100ish as previously noted. I think i was mixing them with the parallax which i also have (weak crap). Im running a 2:1 reduction now so that should be plenty unless i want to do pivots on carpet; that won't cut it i am sure. takes an assisine amount of power to achieve that/ but we wont be pivoting on the carpet anyhow.
my turntable motors are 70oz each @ 90rpm, running a 1:14 reduction. there is 2 of them. bench tests with a 1.5v battery made them into a grinder. i have no doubt i'll tear the boom off before they stall with 12v.
http://i.imgur.com/O3ZvvAu.jpg
thats all done. now to make the casings around it, lube chain up again (had to wash most of the factory gunk as it was unhandleable) and give it a new dull coat of paint.
i had to make so many slots to get it all to fit right. got it all scratched up in the process.
After leaving the upper body out in the rain and ice for a few days i found a few seams that need attention. While my cool new hardcore filler dries i tackled the carriage wiring yet again. Still need to connect the turntable motors and the little plug next to the switch is the charge connection. Still thinking of a good place to put the on/off switch and charge plug.. Every single component is independent and can be unplugged and replaced when the time comes. Finally found some JST connectors with soft wire so bending it all and tieing as needed is not an issue. That's why i left planty of slack on each wire. Also i dont think i'll even connect the balance leads.. I can't imagine the cells getting out of balance with the pitifull amp draw they will facilitate.
Also the chains are not rusted in the photo above. That's from my torch flash drying them to prevent rust. Some of the left over factory gunk grease just burned :)
http://i.imgur.com/ZMprZL9.jpg
Also colorsanded and clearcoated the boom last night. Will not do the stick as that will take a beating anyway. Also played with the pressure screw on the pump. Not sure what i set it at.. 15bar? Let's see what breaks/leaks. From weighting parts so far it seems i am going to be right at my new target weight of 40lbs.
While waiting on parts i did a few things... worked on the undercarriage, figured how to make the chain covers and where and how to put the power sw and charging jack. also spent some time folding cables. i have more space than i thought i would in there now.
i'll spare the details on that until it is done.
mounted the cylinders. The joints are sleeved and greased but if they ever do wear out, just insert new sleeves and ready to go.
http://i.imgur.com/FMs3eNj.jpg
it is heavy. somewhat of a concern really but will know soon enough if i overdid the bucket.
http://i.imgur.com/sowW9Sy.jpg
the metal encasing came out quite well. not machine precise but unless you stare, all angles look good. i had massive issues with the seams here since my usual fillers just flaked off. it goes all the way around as you know..
http://i.imgur.com/PTo1nxv.jpg
now i need to cut a new riser plate so i can push it further towards the wall and do other changes as well. this will allow me to use the space better. the small riser which was for the esc/receiver will be removed in favor of another deck.
the line that is penperdicular with the back of the cab? that's how far the tank will go. but wait, what about the motor? belt driven off the side next to the pump :) this way i can shove it all backwards and have a nice scale slope up the front.
now of course we cant have things go easy and lamebacks pump shaft is m2ish while the motor side (and my pulleys) are m3ish (3.17mm standard size). a challenge... cool. I can also fit another battery in there, either inside the canopy or on top the counterweight as an addition on top. Will decide later. I'll also wire it up for an external cell like my fleet of no longer holding charge optimas (they wanted them back to study them but wanted me to cover shipping 200lbs. HA!)
The end is near! Once i finalize all the stuff inside i can cut up the canopy. Also working on a few other things in the downtime of waiting on parts and supplies.
wired up the hydros for a leak test and pressure adjustment (have to as i totally spun the screw for fun). found a 8$ 300psi gauge but i'll only use it to dial in pressure and then remove. this time i am testing outside the model. took me days to get that oil out of all cracks (end caused me issues with paint)
Performed leak test, the plunger screws leaked but because i left them too lose. corrected that and had no further issues at 14 bar. will test more later. just to make sure.
i got my pulleys and timing belt but i was thinking.. if i connect it directly, it might put too much sideways pressure on the pump shaft, wear it unevenly and create a leak, essentially destroying the pump. since there is no bearing present, i doubt it has any lateral support built in. i will need some tension on the belt to avoid it jumping and vibrating, but i fear even the slightest pull will be enough to cause damage.
to correct this i would have to build a rig and suspend the pulley on bearings and use the stock connector - basically the vario design but with the motor on the side, not on top) this further complicates the task and takes yet more mm off my space i wanted to leave up front. 3mm plates x2 = 6mm, 3mm w bearing + 2.5mm w bearing = 11.5mm wasted space. and thats before the pulley and coupler.
i am only trying to do this for better aesthetics. not sure it is worth pursuing, might just go back to my original plan of having it as a short slope/high step mining canopy
managed to get the pump to a steady
17.581599 bars.................. yes it is possible.
i can push 18 if i wanted to.
pump to gauge directly. just out of curiosity.
20 bars highest it would go but flow really fell off after 18bars. by 20 it was more like a dribble. so their 16bar max setting is somewhat accurate. but i noticed no reduced flow (visually) @ 17.5 but i'll take 16 as the max usable.
now that i am done messing with that, i can get back to working on everything else. time to cut some metal. i really wish i could edit posts beyond 20 mins and not have to daisy chain them but it is what it is
http://i.imgur.com/3FOY4zF.jpg
i made a pass through block. This will take the cables from the boom and send them to the valve. I am trying to shorten cables i have to cut during disassembly and also getting nice cable routing. I will use a combo of straight and 90d fittings as needed. Lower boom cyls are pass through, those up the boom (2 on each side) are 90d most likely. Hopefully buswick has what i need, my maiden order with them is due next week. If those fit, awesome. I am concerned about the thread lenght on nipples. Leimbach is quite short which is great.
http://i.imgur.com/iSudHMI.jpg
This will route the tubing from the block above and onto the boom, a bit like leibherr style (which i love because the way it gets the cables out of your way down below). I drilled this as a joke so 2 in the center are actually off the line a bit. But i like it actually. I'll cut them both to final shape and mount once i get fittings in. Dont want to drill nothing in my boom till i know it will stay there :)
http://i.imgur.com/wIdQnHP.jpg
it goes here.
I am pretty much done with my hydro oil tank enclosure. The actual tank is done and tested, this is just the cover around it i am making. Depending on how much fluids are consumed tonight i will either get a lot done, or nothing else. hah
cheers
It was time to build the slewing ring cover so i had to measure just how much clearance i had. Figured i would take a few photos for posterity.
yep, the filter is in a nice spot out front. Just think of it as a slewing motor.
ended up remaking the carriage cover from styrene (in progress). metal proved too flimsy on the 2 slope sections joints and i cannot extrude it to shape from 1 piece.
Still waiting on german post. so inconsistent.
http://i.imgur.com/AadXzsy.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/4c6Amb4.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/QtFOxFY.jpg
silver can for testing purposes. i also scrapped the belt driven idea i was talking about above. i would not get the clearance i wanted unless i direct mounted to the pump, which would cause side pressure and file the seals in no time.
you can marvel at my brute job of trying to seal it out with epoxy so when leaks happen oil doesnt get in all cracks again and cause problems...... i could have made it nicer but then again.. next build. this one is for learning
Rvjimd
04-06-2013, 09:59 PM
Wow!
Thanks for all the pictures and commentary. It has to be extremely satisfying seeing it all come together!
Jim
I try. I never liked it when people would who a picture and not say anything...
Got a few things overnight. Slewing ring cover is outside baking, done with the undercarriage cover as well, i need to attach them and paint them as one. I thought about using mini bolts and tap em/glue the heads to the slewing ring for extra detail BUT i need to stop adding things and just get it done. I can always do that later on. Besides unless you stare in there you wont see them. (you can tell im not a modeller. a modeller would never allow himself to not add the boltheads lol)
My oil tank is outside baking to dry as well. It's a double tank actually. The metal inside and the pretty cover outside. Its the cover that is drying. Photos when all the paint is dry/any filler is dry on those parts.
I hope to get started on the chain covers today.
I was able to get the tracks together. Remember, i never made a tensioner (i was calculating that i wont have to). I left space so i could add one through great pain if really had to (aka if i screwed up). Well, after getting the links to count i am extatic to say that fit is perfect as is! Putting the tracks on is a bit tricky as you have to put them on and then join with the pin. The circlip is the most annoying part but i can live with it. So they are going on last, after final paint and what not.
I also noticed that my shop (garage really) camera is worse than my phone (so much for black friday deals).. I took out the big guns for proper cinematics. Just have to be careful not to smear grease or shavings on those.
Its raining cats and racoons so ive been working on other projects mostly.
I managed to destroy one of my turntable motors force spinning the upper half by hand (it was hard, so hard). No gear damage but busted the upper bushing so the shaft now wobbles. I ordered a few more just to have in stock.. Replacement isn't bad at all.
Got my fittings in from beswick.. i will require a new deeper boom manifold block.. stripped the soft alum threads very easy. the beswick theads are longer so they went in deeper as is, leaving little space for fluid; expected. I am not happy with their inflated shipping charges but the brass fittings are cheaper than the german stainless ones and get here in 2 days.. ill use them for the rest of fittings, but ill never spend 30$ on one of their quick disconnects (LOL)
fittings themsselves are nice, no machining errors but a very small buna gasket. your mating surface better be polished or it will leak. the barb is single but very sharp. it bites well into the hose
RCP57
04-12-2013, 09:53 AM
Could you post some pictures of the new fittings?
Thanks
http://i.imgur.com/6dMIPdx.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/HqUS9fd.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/nWAbXQm.jpg
when screwed in, they are the exact same height as leim.
im building the next order now. i think i'll get one of each (even the ones i dont need right now) for comparative purposes. should be here next week.
the brass ones are a good deal, but if you select stainless (they usually have different grades of that) price goes through the roof.
yes the ID hole is smaller on these for some reason... i dont have a flow meter to measure if that affects anything. I believe it is because they use imperial and convert to approximate metric. then threads ofc have to be metric precise, but tubing etc is all imperial. you could drill the ID out i suppose. I'll try that. i have like 30 of these to play with
inversely, the leim could be just bigger holes but the inside spacing could be just as constrained, given their aggressive barbs that eat a lot of diameter in the thin areas. i haven't tried the rod through test. i just did a quick leak test the other day and that's it.
Alright i went and measured. Leim straight nipples are 1.5mm ID, these are 1mm. Enough material to drill them out to 1.5 though.
Looking at the beswick drawings, their stainless steel versions are 1.5ID.... Could be a brass thing
but at
M3H-1132-303 $6.25 vs 39684 2.30 EUR or 3.01580 USD they are double..... 316 stainless goes to over 10$ per fitting.
But the 90 degree ones are 1.5ID even in brass which is a good deal. vs having to go to M4 threads to get that ID on leimbach.
RCP57
04-13-2013, 09:29 AM
Nice looking fittings. I will have to look into getting some 90 ones in 10-32 thread.
Thanks for posting the pictures.
wrapping up the cab but ran out of orange paint for the touch ups (argh). A trip to ace is needed later today. got done with the cab guard, the mounts, the screw holes.
On a more interesting note, tinted the windows. I use automotive film. so much cleaner and uniform compared to the liquid sludge called transparency paint. if its a flat pane, i tint it. if it's curved, then i spray it.
http://i.imgur.com/y5KRart.jpg
i went with 35%, i was thinking 16% would be too dark as it is a small cab.
place all your precut windows outside down on a clean flat piece of something, cut and peel your tint, apply your liquid mix (baby shampoo and water is still best) and gently squeege it over the individual pieces. You could cut each tint for each window but with something so small, i just apply it over and cut them out later.
after you squegee it gently cut the pieces apart and get rid of the bulk tint so stuff can dry.
http://i.imgur.com/J6VjChb.jpg
then about an hour when it is drier gently remove the excess around the edges as close as you can without pulling or lifting it. if you dont do that, the excess will wrinkle and pull the edges as it dries.
then when it is fully cured in 2-4 days, do the final trim. i now wait, for 2 days.
http://i.imgur.com/TP5tVqc.jpg
thats basically done. needs a coat of paint and thats about it.
built 2 battery trays on the inside as well to secure the lipos properly.. and some more boring stuff.
been working on the upper section and am still changing some things. more on that later. im kicking myself for not making it 2x as big.
JDH429
04-27-2013, 08:07 AM
Incredible work CDM! This is what i wanted to do before getting involved in a loader build. Thats ok, you got the build figured out so your next one can be bigger. Looks great.
Thanks. Got the windows in but i am out of detail brushes. Once i buy those i'll paint the styrene retaining strips so they wont stand out like so. I didnt spray prepaint them as i didnt need more paint to solvent through during attachment. Making a full inside frame around the widows was an option but since i am not making a full detailed interior, it was not worth the time to do that. Would have looked pretty but why, there are no side panels on the inside anyway.
http://i.imgur.com/XBMNvo4.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/DWGo0sI.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/QKZd9tS.jpg
JDH429
04-28-2013, 08:06 AM
Great build, been following this for a while. Everything looks great and that cab looks perfect. Good tip on the window tint. Great work all around.
tracksntreadslou
04-28-2013, 03:33 PM
Great skills..and good ideas..I dont see much of the bruder left now ..lol ..May have to rename your thread now ..Have you checked with clippard for fittings ...i havent bought from them for a bit but they did have some pretty good prices..cheers
The only bruder part is the upper body lower plastic basin that is now enclosed in inches of aluminum and styrene.... it serves no purpose other than i can't remove it at this point. hah
Been working on the cab raiser (to solve my symmetry issue due to the big oil tank), cab walkway and ladder.
Got some more fittings on monday from beswick and argh.. Their 90d ones are so small there isn't enough clearance between the mounting surface and the nipple to even squeeze the hose in! ok you barely can jam the hose in there but impossible to put the retainer. You need to file down the surface right next to the thread so there is enough space, basically like an L bracket; can't be mounted on a flush surface, only on an edge. Alternative you can spend 9.10$ on male to female extender to offset the fitting 5mm and have enough space for your hose and retainer. Photos later. Fittings themselves are tiny though.. good for loaders if you can mount them against an edge or machine an edge like a step or ident (0.5mm of tolerance between edge and seal not sealing from the looks of it). I also got some of their plastic retaining sleeves (35$ for 100 vs 10 for 10$ from leimbach). Again they use bloody imperial and claim this fits 4mm hose.. well not really. you need pliers and vaseline to get the fitting onto the hose and no way in **** to get it around the barb. You could always drill them out though, though they are only 1mm thick so really more fiddly work to do for no real reason.
So i am a bit frustrated, i was hoping to put the hydros in this week, but seems like i may just abandon the leibher design/routing of the hoses and go for a cat.. straight from boom block into valve. no 90d riser block in there. i'll just cut a hose clamp block to wrap around the hoses instead.
weather has been miserable so i have been working in the garage on other things. but now that i know where i stand with the hoses, i should speed this up again.
http://i.imgur.com/5MeWKJt.jpg
Now all i have to do is wire a few connectors. The electronics sit on the small plate, mounted on the hydro plate, which is mounted on the main body plate thingie. A few screws takes it all apart and contains any oil leaks to nothing electronic. the bec is mounted beneath the esc. speaking of esc, i decided the fxr was an overkill so i got this one instead and moved the fxr to another project. it produced great smooth curves during testing so im finally happy with it.
the motor is a 65 turn so i can just run it at 100% and not worry about amp draw or rpms. for those keeping track, went from 20 to 45 to 65.
the hose sleeves.. this was a pain. the plastic ones could not be drilled out but i ended up drilling the leimbach ones to 4.5mm ID. in stock form i could NOT get them over the nipples last night.. ended up breaking a swivel joint trying to (fortunately i have a replacement, just 1 spare. ugh) but drilling to 4.5 fixed that. snug as a bug. i drilled out 20, but will need a few more. stock they are like 4.1mm i think.
the tank is all metal encased in plastic for looks as previously mentioned. yes it does have supports on the underside.
ps. i need a 4.5mm box wrench.. so does anyone else working with leimbach 3mm swivels
doodlebug
05-11-2013, 05:27 PM
Can you warm the hose up with a hair drier or heat gun first, then shove on?
Cheers, Neil.
Well you actually want to shrink the hose.. I know what you mean but that wouldnt work.
You can get them on stock if you slide the clamp halfway over the hose and then push both on and gradually slide the clamp back as you get the hose all the way in. almost impossible to do in limited access situations.
that's how i got the y splitters first time around but its not worth minutes of fighting and risking damage when you can drill out in 30 seconds a whole lot of them. since the hose expands when its over the barbs, it jams tight against the bored out sleeve.
After a 7 month absence im back to pinging away at this. I wont bore you with the reasons but it's been a weird ride. And 2014 is forming to be even more interesting, so we will see.
Finished up the undercarriage. Still some dust from storage, could use some paint touch up etc. But I mean.. it will be in the dirt anyway, right?
http://i.imgur.com/WMu499G.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/nFW7gUM.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/422zYl2.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/qInJ88i.jpg
^^ charge and balance ports for the 3s cells in there. Couldn't think of a cleaner way to do this.
And its all metal, except the tracks. And if for some weird reason I need to, I can take it all apart like a model kit. Which I pretty much did this week.
Also ordered some stuff from premacon as I wanted some cool looking parts. Now we await for DHL to get them here. more later. I need to dig out my miles of tubing so I can wire the hydros again.
http://i.imgur.com/l3d2zj9.jpg
began cutting the canopy pieces. rough cuts are best cuts. the end is near I guess.... this is the last thing to do before final assembly
Began the chargeback process against premacon. Another company that collects $, doesn't ship and doesn't respond.
Hopefully its just an oversight. I'll update on the outcome. First bad transaction with Germany to date.
So basically 2 months waiting on parts that never came. fun times.
Lil Giants
02-21-2014, 06:18 AM
There's been a couple guys on here lately that have ordered Premacon hyds with a part or two missing from the package... hopefully it's just a temporary brain fart that they quickly correct cause they certainly have made a name for themselves for a quality hyd component package... did you upgrade to their pump & rotary valves?
Not their hyds. Before I drop 800$ worth of order I do a cheaper, 300$ order to see if I even want to bother with the company ever again. so far, on the fence.
I got their attention and they said they will "ship Tuesday" of next week. we shall see.
got a tracking number, but package hasn't been dropped off yet. however I see no reason it won't be by end of day.
so, now I await for DHL. it takes them anything from 1 to 6 weeks depending on the timing of the planes/ships/canoes. it seems packages sit in queue with them until the next shipment is filled up.
yay im excited. sorta. been a long time coming
Life and other hobbies got in the way...
I see geardoctor has the big leimbach pump in stock so im about to buy that and restart this project. The jung is 500euros (and ill have to beg premacon to ship it) and would require too much internal modification (maybe even new valves). While 900ml is nice, its way overkill. 480ml version of leimbach should be perfect (im at 280 now and its fine except for when you have to power multiple cyls, namely the twin on the boom and anything else in combo with those)
So, dragged this out from under the piles of dust to see what parts ive lost during year+ in storage. A few things are missing but not that many. Preparing a shopping list to replace them. Meanwhile, marvel at the hex drivers holding it up.
I found a cool toy deere digger on amazon a long time ago and like that cab. The cab I made was based on mining units and it changed the scale of the model too much. The shape of the body would have to bee redone to not look weird so Im not using it after all. You can see it in pages past I believe. I think I have it shown complete? not sure... been a while.
The chassis is complete.. there is nothing to do to it. The boom is also essentially done (premacon bucket taken off due to ease of me tinkering). All that's left is me to get the hose wiring and finish the body and details (walkways etc). I began cutting the body profile but stopped as the project was shelved following the lack of a proper volume pump. I have been playing with the hose routings a lot, thinking how to make them more real. many blocks were drilled and tested but im still undecided on what route to take with that.
Also, there isn't a single bruder part left in that. The design isn't really based on it any longer either. I should change the title...
The tracks are supposed to look oversized. I always liked the wide track diggers (like demolition units) hence I oversized them. It will shrink to proportion with 1" walkways around the sides.
http://i.imgur.com/ywGQImr.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/uDpkNkz.jpg
attached the bucket for good. I became lazy and just adapted it to the mount I already had, I didn't want to hack the bucket too much. Right now it still fits the R944.
Its a bit of a qd. Only the front pin is removed and the bucket slides out. Good enough.
The arm is cut out of a solid piece of delrin based plastic with stainless bushings pressed in the holes where shafts connect. So that's now done as well.
http://i.imgur.com/l8XLQfD.jpg
I don't think I ever showed the bucket I made. It is basically the same volume as the wide premacon. Just different shape (narrower and deeper). This is what the mount was designed around and I didn't want to change it. It is screwed and alum weld sealed out of around 20 pieces. I still like it and might use it. Yep I've learned a lot and tried a lot of things with this build.
http://i.imgur.com/K9wCvBy.jpg
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