First build ,cat D11

[Cooper]

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/ceddc90354b94cd377d51fd3736a5927_zps4a402a3b.jpg

Pump and motor will be mounted under cooling fan. Trying to keep weight low and somewhat centered.

[Cooper]

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/3e762c6ac3aa267c73e4fe9b2c8c87d8_zps4352065d.jpg

5 valve assembly mounted towards back under superstructure.

[Cooper]

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/45b58d9ad3e89b0a669ea1d727ec4131_zpsc577a009.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/03879ad23c1f35fb479d27c8b6e5e589_zps8991cb25.jpg

I will be building somewhat of a housing for the batteries so they will be velcrowed down and stay put. These are some of the lipos I have, they are dinogies from mark f. I never put a plug in for anyone but of all the lipos I've run these are stateside shipped, guaranteed, and preform outstanding. Had these packs for a year and half, I've pulled over 400amps over 1400 watts and they have minimal ripple, voltage drop while charging them at 20 amps all the time. If anyone out there is in need of racing high demand lipos these are some of the best if not best, better than hyperion, Grimm, ect. Just trying to share some of my good experiences.

[Cooper]

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/07cde1a27950a4c87670a528bac4d1f5_zps2394646d.jpg
Relief valve somewhere in here, easy access.

[Cooper]

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/ba9092917f4468360a15cba637a7ebbc_zps018901b0.jpg

And as I have to retract my words, on building a reserve hydraulic tank. I think I will build a tank that will sit in this location. Weight low and will be able to have high volume tank to keep oil healthier and cooler. I know its a dozer and not pushing oil like an excavator but the overkill isn't on the bad side. The bottle of dykem is 4oz. So whatever I build I would be able to build something that could be as big as 12 oz or more.

[Cooper]

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/fb6e1f6cc0695c3dc27ae5f34cfc2f93_zps15dc39bd.jpg

Just the latest pic. I have yet to get sound. I'm thinking of the smx from servonaut. I think that's the one, the one without the turbo sound. What do you think? I'm thinking the turbo sound for the dozer will be too much. I think that is better suited for the trucks.

[Lil Giants]

I HATE the turbo whistle... makes me want to take a hammer to what ever is using it!!! Ppl who don't how to run their model show off the turbo sound effect for some silly distraction, thinking it's kool.

Start putting goodies inside & the space disappears quick, eh?! :D

[Cooper]

Yes it does get crowded quick. I spent about two day trying to figure out how things would fit. I'm waiting on some 90 degree elbows, hopefully they will be here this coming week. Need them for the pump. Having it near the bottom there isn't much room and a straight fitting just will kink once it's gets warm I do believe. The whole cabin area is empty so I could use that. I'm trying to avoid that because it seems like that may turn into an oven. :). Making all the little brackets and things to hold everything in place is going to be fun. And I just know once I get all those things fitted, welded, bolted or whatever I'll see a better mounting way!! It always happens. Lol!!!!

[Espeefan]

Yes, the Servonaut SMX is the one with the turbocharger sound built in. Each to his own. I personally like the way it sounds. It is adjustable, so you can turn it up, for guys like Joe, who don't like it. :)

The D11 is looking great and you are making very nice progress!

[9W Monighan]

D11's that I have been around actually have a fairly muffled engine sound. The clunk clunk clunk while pushing and clanking tracks when backing up are very loud .

[Cooper]

Yes that's what I'm thinking. I would love it if it had some squeaks to it. But tracks are aluminum and only materials rubbing are aluminum and brass. Most likely no squeaks. In time the clanking will get louder as tracks get more loose and worn. The sound speaker is going to be housed inside the cab, I may add some absorbent material in that area so it doesn't sound like a tin can. :). Not the best for acoustics but it's on the minor side of things to worry about.

[ihbuilder]

looks good Cooper :eek: wana trade PRV's for the weekend ? The 1 you have will fit better in my compactor and not enough time to get 1 in from Premacon :( .

On the turbo whistle , it's not right . I have 75% hearing lose in both ears , so I can barely hear it in the real werld . Wen I can hear it on a model loud and clear , somethin not right . The only time I ever heard that whistle , is when I ran the TD12 and TD8E with a straight pipe :eek:

[Espeefan]

Depending how good your hearing is, I suppose you might not be able to hear some turbochargers, but others can be heard over everything else. This is a D10R, but the turbochargers are definitely audible.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XVQWchXTcy8

[Claus]

Awesome build for sure, what more can I say? As for the sounds why don't Servonaut offer a screaming Detroit?

[9W Monighan]

I should have said 11N's that I have been around. They have a very distinct sound. I can still hear them in my mind because they used several of them less than a a half mile from my house to stripmine one of my friends property about 22yrs ago.

This video has that sound I was describing. No whistle, only raw power fan noise track clunks and the occasional squeak of the blade twisting
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TDDFkHhWeGM

The coal company also was running some old worn out D10N's with the V12
They are louder than the 11's

Are you going to try to make it down to York,PA next weekend to display your dozer?

[Cooper]

I really want to get down to York. I was just talking to a friend in Harrisburg, if I can make it I'll be down Saturday. He and I are in the same boat, don't know till Friday and that's not sure. Weather has just been terrible for me and work has been pilling up. Hopefully I can make time as it's not that far for me to go for a couple hours. If I do head down there I'll bring what I got so far. Slapped together it looks pretty good, no paint or finals yet but would make a good looker for the show.

[Cooper]

I should see if I could hang a couple pieces of heavy steel inside somewhere. Any movement would clang them together. I love the clinking of tracks and the squeaks. To me it's what makes a dozer. I use to watch my dad back in the 70's running a d8 all clapped out, loose and loud. :).

[Cooper]

looks good Cooper :eek: wana trade PRV's for the weekend ? The 1 you have will fit better in my compactor and not enough time to get 1 in from Premacon :( .

On the turbo whistle , it's not right . I have 75% hearing lose in both ears , so I can barely hear it in the real werld . Wen I can hear it on a model loud and clear , somethin not right . The only time I ever heard that whistle , is when I ran the TD12 and TD8E with a straight pipe :eek:

If I don't get my order this week I can see if I could next day the prv for you. Without the fittings I need it's just sitting. My premacon order has been in limbo for over a week. It's in USA but no movement, must be caught up in customs.

[ihbuilder]

thats OK . It took me a couple hrs to figure out how to stuff everything under that hood , not pulling apart till after next weekend :eek: . Then I'll do some digging see what I can find local ;) what size fittings ? I have a few and I'll be ordering more this summer from my supplier .

[Cooper]

Just weighed everything including batteries. Less paint and oil. But all in all it was 64lbs. So weight when finished will probably be around 70lbs.

Inbuilder, I need three m5 by 4mm hose elbows, two elbows to come off pump, 1/8 fittings or m10?? Not sure what thread size. But one elbow for 6mm and one for 4mm hose. Hopefully I'll have these this week but I'm always finding I need something else!!! I may have to hit you up for something if I don't get it.

[Cooper]

Or I may make up my own but that is going to be a p.i.t.a. Knowing nice shiney pre made fittings are out there somewhere. :) guess it's going to be a struggle between my ADD impatience and logical reason of waiting. Basically kid vs adult :)

[ihbuilder]

I'll have to order the fittings going to the pump , I have 1 6mm elbow and 1 straight . I have a few m5x4mm

[Cooper]

On these premacon pumps, what is the correct thread size on the suction and pressure side of pump? Is it m10-1.50? I'm at work right now so I don't have pump with me, I know on there website it says 1/8zoll. I'm probably going to make my own elbow from brass and just want to be sure of thread pitch.

[ihbuilder]

1/8 british standard straight pipe

[Cooper]

Thanks for the thread size.

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/cd3a9c8686d719ab73c74e7163a4e16c_zpsb61bfbc9.jpg
Made a paper template of battery compartment.

[Cooper]

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/b02aa2183aef5bd7a891bc0dd660f2eb_zps0181a9db.jpg
Transferred markings to this piece of aluminum I had. Don't know where it came from but it fit the bill

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/e6ea68f7aa770f798a3fd6c211554cf6_zps0b1e862b.jpg
Milling it to the correct size, I'm making side pockets for it to slide into along side frames. And in the mill it's 1/8" thick plate so some clamps to keep it from vibrating too much to mill. As I don't have a band saw and needed to have square clean edges.

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/6bbebc30bebe0c130a493ebb25f90d25_zpsafdc42a6.jpg
After cutting out. I made some openings in the front to get some of the air from the fan. I was planning on heating up then bending the front, back and sides. But,,,,, I don't know what kind of aluminum this was but it doesn't want to bend. It broke at every bend. Plate so I guess it was just too thick to bend to 90 degrees. After breaking all the sides I spent a lot of time milling out,,,,,,I used that aluminum weld rod stuff. It works pretty well but doesn't penetrate wort beans. I'm going to at some time in future have it welded on the bottom seams. But for now the torch welding will work fine.

[Cooper]

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/4cf3232b86b10de28c35496c956f1dc6_zpsf1a4295b.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/574356219bc958b125d427533fa20c7f_zps7f7dc60c.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/8e2472a40306be171ac44ac228106069_zps5e296d43.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/46e09cac9bd1de9eba43d7a42f8c85b7_zps2ae7f7bc.jpg

In the first couple picks you can see the slots it slides into. It's a bit of struggle to get it in but once together with the front sides on its very secure. And it actually opens up a lot of room. I have enough room to stack two of those batteries for some longer run times. And I don't think I'll have to secure batteries as they fit snug without being able to move much. I use to having to go to great efforts to have everything secured. I think this is going to stay right side up all the time. :)

[ekim]

Cooper,
Which brand of rods did you use?? I worked with some alumiweld this weekend and same thing... it is crap for a good weld. I am waiting for some muggyweld Super 5 to show up tomorrow to try and test it out. They say the powder flux does the trick that it works real well......we will just see.

[Cooper]

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/73af47aea720e13f9219ac56b523c3f9_zps0686f1c2.jpg

I'm sure this stuff isn't made by Hobart, I looked for a manufactuer on the back but no luck just a brand name. I have some flux and solder for aluminum but I don't know where I put it!!! I used it to solder lipo base tabs as they are aluminum (as people will say they are copper and you can't solder aluminum, but they are aluminum base tabs ). Yes for what I've gotten into the flux is the main part, has to break the oxide on aluminum. Even just milled will quickly develope an oxide covering. That's why they say to use stainless steel wire brush on aluminum during heating when brazing, soldering. Let me know what the stuff you get works like as I just don't have enough work to warrent a purchase of tig welder. But am trying very hard to justify a purchase of one. :).

[JAMMER]

Use some acetone to clean the aluminum before welding it helps clean the oxidation off. Ed

[Cooper]

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/eb4817e11d65cc1eff598a627136016a_zpsd74c4d9a.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/300485e484f2415d2d7cd70058815ec0_zps7bebace1.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/8d89c7819b0afe38700278ca1739289e_zps51881c62.jpg

I made a hydraulic tank. The bracket on the bottom is a mount for the 1/2" bar that connects the two tracks together. I still have to add some sort of mounting to the top and a vent. The suction line for the pump is on the bottom and the return lines on top. All are 6mm.

[tracksntreadslou]

Cooper you must of done this before ..Very impressed with your first Build ..This is awsome ..Thanks for sharing all the awsome pics and very informative discription..Cant wait to see this bad boy rollin

[Cooper]

Thanks!!!

I don't think I'll have the time I wanted this weekend to get a few hours to head down to cabin fever at York. Kind of depends how much rain we get, a lot and I'll have time. But if things aren't too muddy I'll be staying around here. I got one order from premacon today, need the second order to show up soon. Several back to back orders because I don't know what the heck I'm doing with these hydraulic fittings. !!! But some more progress that I'll post up shortly.

[sparkycuda]

Your build is really great and very ingenious the way pieces have been fitted together to save space and provide access - outstanding workmanship! Concerning the aluminum brazing problems: I've used it several times with excellent results; however, on thicker pieces like you are using, allow extra time for all of the metal to reach the melting point of the rod. Early on, I had problems with heavier pieces and learned to wait a bit to be sure everything was up to temp. Even had to use a different torch once in order to get enough BTUs for proper melting. I've always used a stainless steel brush for prep, but never used flux.
Keep up the good work!

Ken

[Cooper]

Thanks for the info, I know what you mean with the heat. I think a big problem I was having was I had it mounted to a vise and vice grips holding another piece of aluminum for a bit of a jig. I think it was robbing too much of the heat and me not getting it hot enough like you said. I'm using mapp gas but the torch tip is like three little tips, doesn't really localize the heat. Once I get use to this stuff I definitely think it will be a asset in the building options.

[sparkycuda]

Good point about the heat-sinking effect you get with vises and pliers holding the parts. I forgot to mention that I switched to paper-binder spring clips to hold things. They don't soak up much heat, are cheap, available in many sizes, and can be tossed when heat removes all the spring tension from them.

Good luck!

Ken

[Cooper]

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/fc76295ddf1c643457ddb280d99dc7f2_zps2380607e.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/7a9150007cc4181af6028afdbbcc23bb_zps39d152df.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/b30a014293a1b03f7d0801584cf9a399_zps7bdc7842.jpg

Work on mounting the valve block.

[Cooper]

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/15caf5abd0267a4f085010d8b2178d00_zpsd484d8e4.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/a83df9a7a161f002b19e22f7160e0e75_zps5aa121be.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/7f603fd2bae730f624adbffe4e1efe02_zps26fb9983.jpg

Found a practical place for the pressure gauge.

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/6c9deb4e1d02771b0178a9a9a0c19723_zpsb5724a74.jpg

There is enough room behind and under the gauge for all the hoses

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/937b3f3177090250abdd2d31e919b2a7_zpsca7576d2.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/a94261dedd4361303a9bdda07f2b6bda_zps1f9e6da6.jpg

[Cooper]

With the cab up

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/8c6be0b720ba476b046582c551a9bc76_zps1fc3d882.jpg

And down. You can just see the gauge, but there is lost of room around and above it.

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/190602b4518d546c0cb8070ad3b84ca2_zps45783e7d.jpg

[avel]

Wow, looking good.

[Cooper]

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/189e5148c5fa430c4a1add62b4e9af50_zpsc4d13aee.jpg

Have some time tonight, I'm going to try and bring her to life. :). I don't have the radio for it yet but have one laying around I can use. I ordered one of the new flysky/ turnigy 9 ones. For the money they are great radios. Mixing and assignable channels.

[Cooper]

I know several of you are enjoying all the cool stuff at cabin fever in York and I got stuck home working,,,,,,,,,, lol. Hope you all enjoyed the show, I really wanted to get there.

I found out that I have enough wiggle room on the track links when I remove several shoes to avoid using any master link or connector pins to connect the track ends.
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/617bf5c3f4726c6f21de7d08fe35f470_zps6a2b1319.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/3c77f3f8a8575c7063a506b4129119fd_zps8c467ecc.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/9182ed7d041ff0de0b41c51dc4d935a8_zps65c92327.jpg

Don't know if it will help anyone else but I've been struggling with an effective acceptable master link , now it's solved.

[Cooper]

http://youtu.be/cAQllGx7SUU

Ahhhhh, success!!! First test run!!! She is a little slower than I thought but that is probably what scale speed would be. I know I did the math and all that figuring when I was figuring out gearing so as long as it was right then. This should be scale speed. Just seams a bit slow to me.

[Cooper]

After looking into it , speed is about right, I guess I'm just use to rc toys being much much faster,,, and being able to punch it when the cat, wife, dog are in range and getting yelled at. Lol.

[RCP57]

It looks great to me. My wife would not be thrilled about me driving it on the hardwood floor though....

[Claus]

I can't imagine the feeling you felt seeing something you dreamed up and built from nothing functioning so well, great job!

[sparkycuda]

Looks great! Speed is plenty fast - yes, crawlers do their work at a pace much slower than wheeled vehicles and it does seem slow if not used to it. You have much to be proud of. Also, you must have a good relationship with the person attached to the tenns shoes.....floor cleanup going on while you are driving around on it!!!!!!!!

Ken

[Cooper]

Thanks for the assurance guys!! Well about the running in the house on floors,,, I was already in the dog house about not getting stuff done around house when wife was gone during weekend. So,,, already in trouble might as well have some enjoyment during the moment. :). The floor is linoleum. I'm in process of replacing all floors in house.

[Cooper]

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/40b7ef83fbeef6f29b266a629b1a6321_zps07ba3d62.jpg

This is what those blocks are for, I epoxied neo magnets into the slots. They will hold down the hood and cab.

[Cooper]

Placement of air cleaners and exhaust.
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/73b1168765b07cc94067b1c4a72e96f2_zps876162ac.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/47d838c6958d00d8d17f0063979e7a13_zps4b61f933.jpg
To me they seem a little misplaced but looking at the parts/shop manual that's where they go.

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/d921b94dfee8fb35140f40f70277ca18_zpsf78d10a7.jpg
Just some m3 screws holding them.

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/7e6fd36c4d4dd31f2b49a76106826d1d_zpsbf0a56ce.jpg
And to get the parts to stand vertically the best tool was a simple hand file and eyeball :)

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/574f43c0d5f3eb2de9c0462957c8fd88_zps99328756.jpg

[Cooper]

Oh and I used some grommets from my favorite (if u need a tool cheep to work a few times) store , harbor freight. Cut them in half , they will make great trim pieces from metal to part.

[Cooper]

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/cbb90cd9d666176b2ac29479f62931ca_zps53e0ff4f.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/5e99fec20466191c9cf90e609bc0d1bd_zps8dbd6d6b.jpg

First coat on the steel parts. Have to get some more self etching primer for the alum stuff. I'm going to try and get the painting stuff out of the way before I hook all the hydraulics up. I'm pretty confident I have all the hoses and wiring routed so no more machineing should be necessary. Just hone and polish cylinders and the wiring. But it's always the little things that take the longest. Like I found out from test running that I need a tad bit more clearance for the wheels.

[Cooper]

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/ddcfde7bb3e1a3502eb41997f0920369_zpsa196cb27.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/a4f6f35b71e065b1bbcf2fd333d07a72_zpseb227cb6.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/f57fae877227bcd280dceef21b99bc91_zpsd6320eb8.jpg

Primed and first coat on.

[Espeefan]

Cooper, your parts looks great all painted up. I was wondering what you are going to do for cab windows. Your first run video is great. The D11 does seem a little slow, but maybe you could bump the battery voltage up a bit and pick up some more speed. I don't think I'd worry about it to much, unless a little extra speed for reversing after a pushing a full blade forward and going back to do it again might be helpful.

[Cooper]

Thanks, for the windows I'm going to use vinyl. I have a vinyl cutter so clean lines and any shape is no problem. Only problem is the color. If I keep the cab yellow then black windows. But I like the two tone cats, yellow with black cab and top of hood. If I go that way possibly grey?? I don't know how that will look. Haven't got that far yet but will have to look and see what color I have. Would hate to order a whole roll for just six inches. I do have a masking vinyl that is a little transparent and grey. That may work. I'll post some ideas as I go.

[Cooper]

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/97dc36cca79ecb07dd0541956f82545a_zps3de8ea0e.jpg

[Cooper]

Question, it's pretty oblivious to me but just wanted to be sure. On the cylinders, for the hose fittings to properly seal should I machine a flat spot where the threads are? I'm thinking with the plastic sealing ring on the fittings they will need to have a clean flat surface to seal properly. Correct? I'm onto finishing up with the hydraulics and clarifying all those little details that seem to drag on a build.

[ihbuilder]

Question, it's pretty oblivious to me but just wanted to be sure. On the cylinders, for the hose fittings to properly seal should I machine a flat spot where the threads are? I'm thinking with the plastic sealing ring on the fittings they will need to have a clean flat surface to seal properly. Correct? I'm onto finishing up with the hydraulics and clarifying all those little details that seem to drag on a build.

yes, then put a lil thread sealant on the threads and you should be good .

[Lmackattack]

Looks great...I think you have a perfect scale speed. Can't wait to see how it looks with the new paint

[Cooper]

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/6b7f3b8611a21bbbaac6d7b994505794_zpsce294131.jpg

I did put a wrench to these, very light on the torque. Figured I didn't want to chance stripping and if they leak then I can tighten them easily.

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/474f2e64abc9496ebe7b5dbcd0b2220d_zps4ba5077c.jpg

These fitting are the ones in question. Beings how the cylinders are round I am thinking I need to have a flat mating surface for the elbow plastic sealing ring. I never messed with these small fittings and still not sure on sealing. My thoughts of having 120-140 psi pressure in the system I should have flat and as insurance some sort of sealing putty/paste. Like I said I ain't got a clue :).

Thanks mackattack, I was just thinking a tad bit faster for duplicate passes for reversing speeds. But I'm happy with it and sounds like it from you guys that it's about right.

[Cooper]

And I still do have some lazyness in me :). I'm using the bolts that were painted and replacing with unpainted ones where they can't be seen. Save me from having to paint the heads of bolts in another step :). Eager to get her dirty!!!!

[Cooper]

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/8832c0465188634d7ea051ef88a3451f_zpsb5b420b6.jpg

Forgot the pic

[RCP57]

Looks great! Like IH said, just machine a small flat for the washer and you're good to go! I haven't needed to use sealant on the threads but that may not be a bad idea as well.

[JAMMER]

Cooper I see you had some teflon tape to seal with, do not use that for the hydraulics if it get in there it will gum them up. Ed

[Espeefan]

Looking good, Cooper! The paint looks great under natural lighting. It must be pretty durable too. The hex head screws have no signs of chipping anywhere, unless you painted them after they were threaded in place?

[Cooper]

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/1262c2110a2ae187d917f5106afd7467_zps9a7c5a62.jpg

Some parts I tried to paint as much together as possible. The paint is a couple days old but still not fully cured. I have been using dry powder graphite on parts that touch as a lubricant and to help keep the paint intact until fully cured. So if it looks dirty on the track parts that's just graphite powder.

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/737f543cb18f6003d89c6d93c52d2387_zps24deae75.jpg

And assembly is slow as some things need to be adjusted for the layer of paint. I tried to make certain areas loose tolerances as I've herd people say after paint the parts don't fit. I have to finish up the hydralic parts and paint them. Still waiting on radio. As I really don't want to do all that programming just to redo it when radio comes in.

[JAMMER]

Cooper you are coming along nicely no sense in rushing things now and making a mistake you have created a excellent model. Ed

[Cooper]

Yes and thanks. Oil filter is one of the little things I need to get yet. I am remaking the hose fitting piece for the top of the blade lift cylinders so both black hoses come downward from top. It's still a bit before I get oil in the tank. All those little things,,,, it's like death from a thousand paper cuts!!!

[Cooper]

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/6b643e72f8cb3e5ee5a2380a7d034cac_zps47eee83e.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/42db7ca42754463c9fff1e9ac65b2c46_zps2cd404c7.jpg

I got another order from premacon. I was wondering why it was taking so long. I recieved an order from them that I placed after this one. By the looks of it I think it got stuffed in the wheel well next to that little boy!! I know it's not premacons problem but I only got one container of oil (paid for two). That's in the trash somewhere I'm sure.

Does anyone know what kind of oil they use? Pretty thin I just don't know what weight oil it is, that I could buy locally.

[Claus]

What a thing of beauty! Paint really makes it come to life.

[Lil Giants]

BRUTAL!!! Are you going to put in a claim with Premacon against the shipper?

This is the oil I use in my models, Mobil Hydraul 50

http://www.mobil.com/Canada-English/Lubes/PDS/IOCAENCVLMOMobil_Hydraul.aspx

[JAMMER]

Cooper I use Cat oil in my excavator with no problems the last jug I bought was $20.00 for 2 gallons. Ed

[Cooper]

So just some light weight hydralic oil would be fine? I was thinking jack oil? I have lots of hydralic/trans fluid from 1:1 equipment. The premacon hpl22 oil seems pretty light compared to regular hydra oil. Just want to be sure. I was also thinking a heavier oil would help seal better.

##%##ss. $$#¥!!!!!!! Darn!!!! I came to the conclusion that I have to make the tilt cylinders 1" longer. When the blade is fully lifted and till all the way back the back of blade contacts the lift cylinders. I. Guess my calculations and redneck cad drawlings were,,, well accurate as soon as I de-solder and attach a one inch longer piece, were spot on!!!

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/44cbc4313f389ab2597850728b5b8b5a_zps371fcac7.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/b65501814966eb81c6da1dcdfb5f3304_zps769d41e8.jpg

[Cooper]

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/97a5d40d77122d8aaf4634d257699298_zps560a90f3.jpg

[JAKEBRAKE]

Absolutely amazing job Cooper!!! That would look real if you placed that in the dirt.

[Cooper]

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/66b07a6ffcdd8bb5ae69394dce43b0da_zps1f724e9e.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/0d6f4fec260b78b98927c5a03c113479_zps7d3f2870.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/c087e7c93546cd73153e84f028558d03_zpsae3b44cf.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/c469282e9f902ee34d7732cd32170d79_zps10247212.jpg

Only problem I ram into so far, I have to remake the cylinder head for the ripper tilt. I don't know what I did , mis read the dials, but it was too skinny and wouldn't seal.

[Cooper]

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/730f7c51c1ef5de97792038030b51285_zps94d38a58.jpg

Got the radio and started on programming. It only took me about three hours to program all the mixing. :). I'm not that familiar with programming and mixes. But once I figured it out it started making sense and became relative easy. I have the radio set up with the fan on a switch, on and off whenever needed. The blade dump and tilt is on one switch so all I do is flip switch to go from dump to left/right tilt. Then the ripper up/down and tilt are on another switch to change from blade to ripper commands. All the hydraulic servos are on a mix with the pump. So the pump only activates once stick movement is input. Somewhere I read that saves battery and gives smooth movement to hydraulics. Sounds good to me :). And I do have the available switches for lights and sound when I get around to that.

So now it's time to start routing all the hydraulic lines.

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/18f93252d0c8712df60cc06c255c9b3c_zpsa076c744.jpg

[Cooper]

Another question---

On the pressur relief valve I have (from premacon) I can blow air through it. I tried to loosen the set nut and tighten the flathead screwdriver bolt (assuming tightening will increase pressur) and I can still blow air through. It is a little hard kinda like blowing up a balloon. But I'm pretty sure I'm not capable of 120psi with my lungs. Should I take it apart or is this how it should be?

[Cooper]

And I may have it backwards, is the pressur side on the bottom and the relief on the side? Or other way?

[RCP57]

Pressure in the bottom. I wouldn't think you should be able to blow through it! Either that or you should have taken over for Dizzy Gillespie.... Maybe it has crud in it not allowing the ball to seat?

[tracksntreadslou]

Hey coop the pressure will on the bottom opposit the set screw cover releif side ..there pretty simple insde ..set screw ,spring and a small ball bearing ..Looking good

[tracksntreadslou]

Sorry tried to edit ..releif off to the side

[Lil Giants]

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/fc76295ddf1c643457ddb280d99dc7f2_zps2380607e.jpg

In this photo it's the brass color fitting that the pressure line is applied.

I doubt your prv was preset to anything, they usually never are, you'll probably have to screw that bolt in a long ways before it starts making pressure. Somewhere between 16 & 20Bar (if your meter is metric) would be plenty.

Activate your whatever valve is on a switch ch so the oil is deadheading, to set your pressure & your hands will be free to make adjustments.

I was reading your programming summary, concerning your hyd pump, whether it's on a 2pos or 3pos switch on tx. Off is off & the next step of the switch you should set your EPA to atleast 30% so the pump is running while you are pushing b/c you will be constantly adjusting blade height & don't want that pump coming to a complete stop - then start again many times is a short period of time.

These larger pumps with big brushless motors do surge some amperage to initially start up, and if you are start/stop pump motor 20x (just a guess, don't know how many times it takes on avg) in a minute, you will over heat your pump esc & trigger the thermal protection shutoff, providing the esc has one. Then your pump will be dead until that cools off & allows your esc to function again.

Having your pump "mixed" with the valves, your pump will rev up to increase pressure & flow when a valve is activated.

[Cooper]

Ahhhh,, good point joe, (I think that's yr name?). I will program the pump channel to run about 30% and will also put it onto a switch at 100% so I can set the pressure.

I did get her to run today, wasn't expecting much. Figured something would be backwards or hooked up wrong but to my supersize my initial run was flawless!!! It took about 15 seconds before the blade lifted. I had some oil in the cylinders but a lot of air. Once it cycled through a few times everything worked and no binding anywhere. I was very very happy and one of the few times in my life something I did worked correct on the first time!!!! I did take apart the prv, I do believe something was stuck in it, cleaned and played with a bit then put back together. I think it may have had a bur on the seat. Had to take apart and work the needle and seat some a few times.

On the list of things to do;
--Get rid of the battery tray replacing with something that can be screwed together after the hydraulic lines are hooked up and routed. Giving me more access to whatever is under it.
-- have to remake the blade cylinder seal housings. I originally made them to accept a regular hydraulic seal but later converted them to using x-rings and o-rings. ,, they leak.
--paint the grill, windows, touch up things, ect,,,
--make some hydraulic line guides for the stabilizer bar, using zip ties for now.
--make the tank breather more accessible so I can use it to fill and change oil.

I did do a rookie mistake, I had been playing with it for several minuets and a bit of oil had leaked out from the lift cylinders. I probably didn't have enough oil in the tank to start with. Once it started working I was so excited that I just didn't pay attention to the loss of oil and lack of oil. The blade started sticking and becoming sticky on the way down (it was running out of oil and sucking air). So I thought I needed to increase pressure. I was thinking the prv valve wasn't working so I cranked it in. Well I can say the pump make good pressure, went up to 40 and ended with oil all inside :(. Figured I deserved that for not paying attention. It blew a hose, ripped a gash in it, it didn't come disconnected anywhere but rather the line opened up. It was the blue hose I have and it may be a tad weaker than the black. Feels a bit more flexible. So after cleaning and degreasing most of the underside I realized what happened and still was just tickled pink that it worked !!!

I will get some video of the next time she runs !!!! Thanks for the input frome everyone, I really appreciate your guidance and advise, definitely hooked on the scale construction toys. Already planning on converting the backyard koi pond into a large construction site!!! (My duck has disappeared and it has a hole in the liner so it needs fixed or replaced,, or converted to a giant open pit mine:)))

[Cooper]

http://youtu.be/kOfcwsboWgY

Just had to put it back together for a short video. For some reason the lateral tilt isn't working properly, I may have messed something up with the radio. Oh well I'll be on the right track soon :)

[Lil Giants]

I think most everybody BLOWS a hose at least once while learning about mini hyds. :D

Good to see you are well on your way with all the programming & what not.

Would the problem with the lack of side to side tilt be b/c of the lift cyls? Perhaps at the same time you're reverse tilting, lift or lower lift cyls so one lift cyl will retract while the other extends... maybe? Seeings how the lift cyls are connected directly to the blade vs a U frame.

[Cooper]

Well the easy thing for me to do would be to make a pivot on the blade for the lift cylinders. But that isn't the right thing. I will get into adding another mix to lift channel so when tilt is enabled the lift cylinders will engage. Because they are on one valve it should enable all the pressure to go to one side resulting in relieving the opposing pressure created by the tilting. That's just going to cause some hair loss on my part involving that program mixing. Lol!!! On the first start up (no video taken of course) the tilting worked fine. I think that was a result in having some air in the cylinders/lines allowing some equalization.

On a good note, I found the cause of both lift cylinders leaking. When I drilled hole pattern for bolting shaft seal housing to cylinder I drilled into the side hole for lifting. They are soldered on but was careful to not add too much solder to run on inside of cylinder. That is allowing some fluid to follow the bolt threads and escape. I'll fix that. So for the most part my hydraulic system works well.

[Cooper]

http://youtu.be/J7iC_Qik_J4

Got all the mixes working, now I just need to learn how to operate it!! I did put the pump on a switch that allows it to be off or on at 35%. The other mixes still work how they should, when engaged the pump reves up. The fan is also on a switch. That thing is quiet. I did remake the battery tray allowing me to take it out by unscrewing a few screws. That allows me access to lines, chain tensioner, breather for tank, just makes it sooo much easier to get in. I'll post some pics when I'm not on my phone later.

[avel]

Holy crap your drive motors are quiet! That thing is a beast!

[Cooper]

Where do you guys get the decals? Do you make your own?

[sparkycuda]

Congratulations on a very fine model! I agree with Avel, the drive system is the quietest I've (not) heard. Looks like you got the hydraulics problems worked out quite well. An observation: the hydraulics are much quicker than prototypical. I did a double-take on the blade and ripper speed - I'm sure it is personal preference, so no problem. They work great!

Surprised your dogs stayed back and just barked. My yellow lab, Stella, is drawn to noise, so she would have been down there sniffing and batting it with her paw.

Ken

[Cooper]

Thank you, it's going to see some dirt this weekend. I will get some video. The hydraulics can be operated very slow, it's my fingers that have to learn. I may change some expo in the settings. For now I'm just going to learn as is. I do have to reverse ripper lift, I like airplane controls where up stick is actually down blade and ripper. Pulling back on stick is up blade and up ripper.

[Azonic]

Very nice to see it moving, seems to work great! Looking forward to the dirt video! :)

Love when the barking dog peeks under the other like he's scared to death! :)

[Bo Wallen]

Congratulations on a very fine model! Looking forward to a "Dirty Video"

[Cooper]

After work I had the opportunity to throw a battery in and run it. First I had to finish installing the skid plates. For some reason they were the hardest to line up get the screws in. I had a lot of clearance room for the screws but paint must have been just enough to throw it off. And realized that 4 of the bolts are inaccessible unless I remove the equalizer bar. It was bad enough that I was laying on the ground with the dozer between the bench and a table supported by blade and ripper!! I had oil in and didn't want to chance some spilling out after I had to clean up from the last blow out. I ran about 10-12 min on a fully charged 5000mah battery with ending with 41% left. So if I run two 5000mah I should be able to enjoy a good 30+ min of runtime. Is that what you guys are around? Sorry I did not get any video but I will tomorrow as it's being moved to its destination. I tore up my yard near the walkway (bunch of dead grass/clumps) but taking it easy on sharp turns in grass the tracks and guides seem to be working well. No hair raised scared cat in the tracks, they layed flat. I do have to reshape the ripper, being flat on the cutting edge it just balled up a lot of dirt. Will post more tomorrow.

[doodlebug]

Looking good! give your ripper shank a little bit of a bevel on the leading edge, to make it less blunt, then it will pull easier. Had the same problem with my skidsteer ripper.
Cheers, Neil.

[avel]

Cool, can't wait for a video of this beast pushing dirt.

[Cooper]

http://youtu.be/y_ZFgqNrcdI

First dirt run. It's down at our river lot. Where I end up spending most of my summers. The soil is very sandy/silty river bank dirt. Only problem is there are a lot of finger roots from whatever is around. This soil has not been tilled just was raked off last year for our 1:14 scale race trucks. Two roots about the size of my pinky were stopping the dozer. At the end I lost right side drive, found out the set screw on sprocket must have loosened up. It's the sprocket on the motor shaft, yup the one that I have to practically take it completey apart to get to. I don't think the shaft has a flat, if it doesn't it will before it goes back together. :)

[Cooper]

<a href="http://s1357.photobucket.com/user/cooperford/media/8985CB5F-3EFE-4F88-B4FC-5484A652A463_zpsqifdkibp.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/8985CB5F-3EFE-4F88-B4FC-5484A652A463_zpsqifdkibp.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 8985CB5F-3EFE-4F88-B4FC-5484A652A463_zpsqifdkibp.jpg"/></a>

[Cooper]

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/8985CB5F-3EFE-4F88-B4FC-5484A652A463_zpsqifdkibp.jpg (http://s1357.photobucket.com/user/cooperford/media/8985CB5F-3EFE-4F88-B4FC-5484A652A463_zpsqifdkibp.jpg.html)

[tracksntreadslou]

Aesome Cooper ..you have come up with a very fine peice of equipment..Now you will be able to keep that track well maintained ..that ripper will take care of any weeds ...I really like that those motors are so quiet ..will work well with the new sound modual

BTW some of your pics didnt show up

[Espeefan]

Great to see the big Cat running around under it's own power. In your videos, I like how it pretty much pushed everything that was in it's way, out of the way. :D It looks like a lot of fun to run.

[Cooper]

I uploaded that pic of a root from my phone and copied the wrong link. :(.

Had to take her apart to investigate the drive problem, it wasn't too bad to get the motors out. I didn't have to mess with any of the hydraulics or electrical. (Well, disconnected two motor wires. )
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/c26038b2ed38b22cae8617f28bf3b08f_zpsb52360ad.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/24f685e22cb50c05be697fa73da40e7f_zps47e99dee.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/bdd097a6828a8adaf87f4a7e4ccf87d4_zps3e55284a.jpg

After pulling the motor I found this was the problem, in the video you can see when it breaks. I don't think anything was binding I think it may have been locked onto a root and just the power of the motor broke the sprocket. And I did not have that second set screw in there where the fracture occurred.
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/3901567df3ab9f03f8725e933c6f2042_zpsc91cdce9.jpg

I do have two 11 tooth sprockets. The sprockets on now are 9. I did want a bit more speed for reversing and I have them so I think I will try them. They are the shiney ones in the above pic. A lot more meat on them. Only thing I have to do is make a new motor shaft as the small ones are 1/4" and the others are about 3/8". I still have the clearance for chain and everything else. Next time I dig up some bigger roots I will snip them with hand shears. I know this is a beast but it's not indestructible. We may even till up the track so roots will not be an issue.

[Cooper]

Great to see the big Cat running around under it's own power. In your videos, I like how it pretty much pushed everything that was in it's way, out of the way. :D It looks like a lot of fun to run.

Thanks guys, yes the motors are super quiet. The noise is from the pump and pump motor. If it's not on you can't hear the drive motors running. I guess I'll start looking into that sound module. :). Hope to get those motor shafts done and back together in a few days, then some more videos. Possibly bring a load of fresh rock and root free dirt into the back yard too!!

[Cooper]

Can I run more than 12v through the premacon pump? Esc says 2-6 lipo, I'm running 3 was thinking about running 4s. 14 volts ? And I know a lot of people overvolt electric motors, was thinking of running them on 4s? Or is this a bad idea? On robot marketplace they sometimes say if a motor has been know to take a few more volts than rated (and hold up). Reason why I'm asking is after looking at parts on the sprockets I would have to enlarge the hole on frame to have clearance for the larger sprocket. I'm not sure I want to go that way, I would have to get rid of the shaft end support bearing and rely on just the motor housing bushing that I already shortened for sprocket clearance. Now I'm leaning towards getting another 9 tooth sprocket, that's why I'm inquireing about overvolting to 4s. How would the pump fair out if I ran it at 80% max on 4s? I've always been told esc run best at wide open (less heat up).

[ihbuilder]

See what your esc is rated for . You can set your end point back a lil if your esc can handle the voltage . I have done this on my Mack using the 6V UMS pump for dumping and run the truck on 12V .

[Izzy]

So that root the size of your pinky is about the equivalent of a 8" diameter tree ? Dang - I'd say your doing just fine!

[Cooper]

Well after looking into all the possibilities I ordered more sprockets to fit the 1/4" shaft for the motors in use. I was investigating the broken sprocket and it's a type of cast/forged metal, very porous in the break area. I can't tell for sure but it looked as if had some stress crack elsewhere. It may have been weak to start with. I don't know if it would have made a difference with the other set screw installed. To me it looked like it rotated a bit then after the set screw slid to the end of the flat spot on shaft it put a bit of an oblong force to it creating the break. And broke at the weakest point (where the second set screw should have been. And I also ordered a pair of 10 and 11 tooth sprockets with 1/4" shaft to keep everything how I originally built it. Not messing with voltages as it is running fine how it is. I just want a bit more speed for long backing up passes.

Operating it is just as much a learning curve as building. Something could have gotten lodged in tack also. I know when I'm on full size machines I'm always looking out for things that could cause damage. You know like not having your wife crank the power stearing on a road you are building with a machine that has just dumped shale on. Yup, sliced the **** out of the tires. :( but she was dropping my lunch off) lol!! McMaster -Carr has them and I ordered tonight so I will have them Tuesday. As long as I order before 3 I have parts next day, except Sunday. I guess warehouse is close.

After running for about 45 min should I change the oil to get rid of any contaminates from the building process? And I had some dark oil come out of cylinders when I took them apart while mocking up. I thing the polish compound had some on shafts and cylinders resulting in that. I am using hydralic oil so it's basically unlimited source for this little machine. 5 gallon should last a couple years :).

[avel]

I would change it. At least empty the tank, then run/cycle some more and empty again. The first time I ran the hydraulics on my loader for about an hour, not moving just setting speeds and mixes and lifting things, the oil came out pretty dark. All later oil changes it wasn't as dark. Yeah color isn't everything, but its never been as dark since, even after running for two hours in the sun.

[Lil Giants]

I use 4s in my Vario hoe with no troubles... virtually the same pump & motor that you're using. What voltage are your drive motors rated at?

I don't remember seeing a hyd filter during your assembly, do you have one? You could change your oil now, but a little discolouring is nothing to worry about.

[Cooper]

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/24f685e22cb50c05be697fa73da40e7f_zps47e99dee.jpg
This is the only pic I have of a filter, look at the bottom of tank, that line goes into a white micron disposable filter. It was the smallest housing I could find. It had barbed ends on it for 1/4" tube and larger. I cut off the barbs and threaded it to accept the m5 hose fittings.

These are the motors I have, I can't find anything about running them higher voltages.
http://www.robotmarketplace.com/products/AME-218-1003.html. But if the larger (10 n 11 tooth) sprockets fit (chain clearance) I'll just stay 12 volts and pick up speed with gearing. I think that would probably be the best way. I've been acquiring several spare parts for future builds from this dozer build so adding a couple sprockets to the pile would help fund a future project (sounds good to wife).

[9W Monighan]

You may have to put a woodruff key way on your drive shafts. The set screw on the flat will most likely keep loosing from the forward and backward movement. You may consider having a press fit on the sprockets too.

[avel]

Well my car, for example, when it's running voltage is around 14.5v. Most Lipo's discharge at around 3.8v-3.5v, that's where the voltage curve flattens out/they remain at the longest. I wouldn't think approx. 15v would hurt the drive motors. Especially if the speed is only needed in reverse and you aren't pushing anything.

[Lil Giants]

The motors don't cost that much... if they burn up from over voltage, easy enough to replace them & don't do that again. :D

The sprockets have dual set screws? On the track drives for the Vario, I drilled a shallow hole into the shaft so each set screw would lock into place. I haven't touched either drive in two yrs.

[Cooper]

That's a good idea, I'll do that. The flat spot on the shaft allowed the set screw to move ever so much, but when it rolled to the edge of the flat I think it put an outward (oblong) pressure on the sprocket causing it to break. And after looking into the over volt on the motors wouldn't be that harmful to them, they are a pretty robust and slow motor to start. Agree with the cost , as I'm use to spending $300-600 on motors like lmk or neu and I push them to and beyond limits but still try very hard to limit the magic smoke when they disagree with what I put them through. Cooking some of them almost makes me cry :). As long as the new larger sprockets don't hit anything I'm just going that route. I should have them tomorrow. A small hole and some red loctite should keep um planted.

[Cooper]

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/56a156f6a401d68f557cd6619d6397ee_zps7023b366.jpg

Had a few trips to the house today, so a couple coats of paint on the ripper. Hydraulics are only thing left for paint.

[Cooper]

And at the end of the day I drained the koi pond and started pulling out the liner. As the wife said I'm not allowed to have a giant open pit mine in the back yard, but she never said a time frame of how long I have to fill it in!! Should be able to make it all summer long project and by that time she will have accepted it :) lol!!
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/88e96f5c59ba31005e09cd3f7aa87e98_zps1aaaf3fe.jpg

[avel]

LOL!
I too need to scrape off the top 6" or so around my "work site" so I don't have to deal with roots. Since I don't have an excavator I need a pretty large area (open pit mine) so that I can peel off the dirt and still make it out of the hole. I have some Tyco/Radioshack old RC cars that I am planning on turning into crude dump trucks for at least this summer.

[anthonymcc]

Great paint job on the Cat.

[Cooper]

Thanks on the paint, I'm working very hard on removing it,, lol!!!

Here are some pics in the tear down, to replace sprockets and check final drive sprockets too.
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/d375b6e42e1c5b12d4242e9fc72a7e42_zps615c56ca.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/109c684b89989e39451dc658a0841611_zpsffa7a49c.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/4b8cf15675938b87ebe212b785e659bf_zpsd237f22e.jpg
Kinda a tangled mess right now but things are secured and organized once together.

[Cooper]

I didn't want to mess with tearing apart too many of the lines so I just pulled the sides off. Had to take tracks off but only have the blade tilt cylinders disconnected.

These are the choices of sprockets. I'm going to try the 11tooth ones. Had 9 on originally. I don't think two more teeth on primary will result in too much speed. And as you can see in the pic the 11t sprocket is good ole steel and lots of it. And I don't have to increase the clearance hole for the sprocket. And I will still have a bearing on the end of the shaft.
You can see the hole where the sprocket sets in. There is a 1/4" flanged bearing in there. I'm not sure what ones I originally had but in a few initial test runs both bearings came apart, ordered some from fast eddy and those seem to be holding up. As a precaution I'm going to throw new in anyway.
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/3023c8c10c7ea800c4b7ff836f828353_zps35f27c3b.jpg

I guess this is the real trial and error or testing phase. And I found out weather it's a model I completely designed and built myself or one with instructions I still don't know how it goes together!! Lol!!

[Cooper]

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/4CDB1F0E-26A5-4BDA-8986-C0F0898DCA86_zps1pziuhod.jpg (http://s1357.photobucket.com/user/cooperford/media/4CDB1F0E-26A5-4BDA-8986-C0F0898DCA86_zps1pziuhod.jpg.html)
Put a small divot in the shaft for the second set screw that I will use this time :)

[9W Monighan]

You can buy set screws with different tips on them. Look in the McMaster Carr catalog. See the ones with the extended point. They have like a dowel shape to them and would go into your divot but be careful that the more material you remove from the shaft, the weaker it becomes. That is why I was saying to use a key in there and press the sprocket on to the shaft. What kind of steel are the shafts made of?

[Cooper]

Yes, I didn't want to remove any more than necessary. That's why I didn't mess with the side with the flat. Shaft is what came with motors, reduced to 1/4 for sprockets. It didn't feel like anything other than carbon steel. Currently I don't have any broaches but is on the shopping list.

[Cooper]

This is the oil change after setting up and playing around, about 1 hour. Left is fresh new oil and right sample is old oil.
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/9ED169EB-257F-4746-9C6E-2AED021F72BF_zpsqq81cany.jpg (http://s1357.photobucket.com/user/cooperford/media/9ED169EB-257F-4746-9C6E-2AED021F72BF_zpsqq81cany.jpg.html)

[Cooper]

http://youtu.be/eNRDkPP6vfI

[Cooper]

I will upload at a better resolution. I did not know how to do that until my tec guy showed me ( my 5year old nephew. ) hopefully have some more video later today, tonight. Thanks and appreciate your comments. Oh, and the 11 tooth sprockets seem better to me.

[Cooper]

Down at our Riverlot and I don't have a landline for upload connection , to get hd resolution, I will upload some videos tomorrow. Only thing down here is soil is riddled with roots and I'm constantly worried about entanglement in the tracks. So after a few drinks she just ran and ran and just tore through any roots!! Very happy with how strong this model has turned out!!

[Cooper]

http://youtu.be/gjTm-oizc58

This should be a better video, I started filling in the backyard koi pond.

[Bo Wallen]

Congratulations You did a Dirty Video with your Super Dozer :) Bye-Bye Koi Pond

[Cooper]

Thank you!! I myself am still overwhelmed with how it is turning out!! I must have watched that video 30 times so far!! I keep watching the tracks, they need to get worn a bit more but they are laying like the full size dozers. My first attempt to video was just the pile of dirt with the d11 sitting on top. I soon realized that it does have limitations. Since the dirt pile was fresh and dozer sitting on top I had to do a lot of maneuvering. I soon realized that having a lot of loose dirt piled into the tracks was/is a bad idea. It resulted in about 30 min of picking packed dirt out of the track links. Some dirt is ok but I was turning and packing dirt into the links. Then the sprocket was compressing it more resulting in slippage. Lesson learned as it does have limitations. In the last couple days I have been removing one track shoe at a time and milling a little bit off the touge to gain the much needed 1.5-2mm of clearance between shoes. That has made a lot of difference in track arching. As in the video you can see it is laying quite flat on the top rollers. A stiffer tensioning spring would be a bennifit too. Still amazed of myself in building something like this!!! Once the windows, decals, lights, sound and paint in cylinders this will be a second look at realism (In my eyes). The way it reacts and works seemed to resemble full size machines, do you all think? I've been around equipment all life but not big stuff.

[9W Monighan]

Since you said the shoes are filling up with dirt because it's damp, and I know it would be a ton of work, maybe mill the cleats on the shoes with a slight taper both sides with a small radius at the bottom. This will help the dirt from packing in there giving a relief.

[Cooper]

I also found some bolts loosened up. Probably settling in the paint, have to go and check all of them, mostly on the carrier wheels. And somewhere I read not to use bearings on tracks. That made sense to me but I thought I could get by with small bearings inside the wheels. Possibly too small, they are 5/16 od , 3/16 id. They have been compromised. So I just ordered some bushings from McMaster. Bronze bushings with stainless or brass shafts should hold up well I think. I'm realizing that there is a lot of stress on the tracks.

9w, on the tracks it seams like taking some more material off the lip of the shoes has done the trick on the dirt packing I between shoes. Having just enough room to have dirt be able to escape and not being packed in. But the river dirt is a sand and silt type, that may pack in there as it is kinda like clay. And as long as I'm not turning sharp in the loam to where dirt covers the track links I haven't had that problem of the dirt packing into the links covering the track pins then having the sprocket compress even more resulting in slippage. I think I'm on the downward side of getting the little things fixed to make this a pretty reliable machine. The wife couldn't believe I leveled all the dirt out with that little toy I built!! Oh and still on the opinion I'm not going to make that into a man size sandbox,, more time and she will eventually give up or in :)

[modelman]

Cooper-that is a nice video. You have done a great job in a short amount of time. I am not putting your model down but I must say with that HUGE BLADE on there, you cannot push even a half-blade of dirt without the tracks spinning. Is the model too light? What does it weigh? Maybe you need about 10-20lbs. of ballast. (just guessing). Have you watched D9 joe's videos. I think he is the best operator I have seen and I believe it was he who mentioned something that may be helpful. It looks like dirt is sticking to your blade so the suggestion was to sand the gloss off the paint to make the blade slippery and get the dirt rolling up the blade and falling forward. This might help push more dirt. You could just wear the paint off but that will take a long time so I would probably try the sanding.The model looks great and you should be very proud and I am sure with time you will work everything out.

[Cooper]

Yes I agree with the blade being big, it was modeled after the old coal mine I use to visit, they had a huge dozer with a large carry blade. I also think the lack of traction was how soft the dirt was. If I were to step in the dirt I would have sunk about 4 inches. I lightly dumped that load with our backhoe. Thought was to keep it light and uncompressed. I doubt the weight is an issue, weighing in at 84lbs with one battery. And down at our Riverlot (in previous videos) it is riddled with roots that stop and snag the blade. But this is the first time I've done anything like this so I'll look into where I could add weight if you think it will help. Only problem is it's pretty well balanced and it's gonna be hard to get some more weight say 5#s front and 5#s back. And I will try very hard to get that paint off the blade :). Thanks so much for the advise!! I'm still tickled that it turns!!! (Turns on!!! Lol!!)

[Cooper]

Oops, not 84pounds , seventy four (74)

[Cooper]

Had me worried about the blade so I did a double check, 1:1 blade is 20'10" and my 1:14 scale comes out to 20'5". Looking at my skid plates I think I can hide/add some weight in them. Ahhh,,, another thing to add to the list,,lol!!!

[Bo Wallen]

Hi Cooper
You have created one great machine for sure. I was a operator in a d10 for two years, and that dozer had a huge blade mounted on. I added a concrete block mounted on the ripper and tilted the blade backwards and when it started to fill up with dirt I lifted the blade slightly to don't dip down, the extra counter weight in the rear made the entire track surface stay in touch with the ground and ad traction. Your machine seems to have a lot of power so I think you can try to hang a weight temporary on the rear and see what happens.
Cool video :)

[Bo Wallen]

The 1/1 D11 is 230,581 pounds So you can ad more weight 10-14 LBS maybe

[9W Monighan]

I watched your video and it seems to me that your blade being a carry blade cannot lay back far enough to get a full load. It's acting more like a straight blade. Think of a wood plane slicing off a chip. Your blade can't penetrate into the dirt at the steep angle it's at now. Well the dirt is wet and loose like you said. Maybe if your push arms were longer a tad to give the blade more room to lay back between the radiator grill. Or change the cutting edge to a lower angle. It would be interesting to see it in some dryer material not sand.
I had to play around with my tooth angle on my dragline bucket to get better penetration and get a full bucket.
Hope this helps.

[speedy8305]

In my opinion if you were to lengthen the pivot arms of the blade that would give it more of a tilt like the 1:1 model

[Cooper]

I went and pulled the bearings out of wheels and replaced with bronze/graphite bushings on stainless shafts. 4 of the 8 bearings were already shot. And finished re-milling the lip profile on track shoes. Put everything back together and charged a battery for some pushing. At about 15 min into it she had a snap and no hydraulics. Found the hose going to blade had bubbled and burst. Yes, oil everywhere. Guess that blue hose isn't as strong as the black. I wasn't sure what the specs were for it but I will be replacing it as I now have plenty of the black higher pressur line. Still trying to find a way to add weight. Question for you guys, I can hide a lot of weight in the blade but that will not help traction as blade will be on the ground, right?? And after looking and comparing blades I see what steep angle I have on the blade. I wasn't completely happy with the blade so just enough excuse to make a new one!! (Just not sure how soon). But I will study the cutting edge angle and place profiles more to come close to functionality of the 1:1. I'll try and post some pics of the hose blow-out.

[Cooper]

I think I can modify the blade by adding a new cutting edge. It is rather a steep angle, but I think by adding another cutting edge I will be able to get a better angle without making the blade higher. And it seems to be able to blend in with the curvature of the blade. Almost is like I screwed up to start with by making such a steep angle on the cutting edge originally. I think I was more so comparing in my mind to a snow plow blade. By creating a shallower angle on the cutting edge does that pull the blade down resulting in the machine acting as it has more front end weight? Obliviously I don't know the engineering of blade mechanics but that would make sense to me on these big machines made to carry large piles of dirt.

[Cooper]

And I'm not sure where I could hide 10 pounds. Maybe 4-5 in the front skid plate by modifying it and welding on some heavy plate steel. From the videos it looks to me it needs more front end weight. Before I weld anything to the front skid plate I'm going to work on the blade modifications and see how it reacts to that.

[avel]

Makes sense, but are the hydraulics up to the task of pushing back to transfer the weight onto the tracks?

For extra weight I purchased some lead from the scrap yard/metal recycling place, you could try that. Although I can't imagine carrying that dozer around with how much it weights already.

[Cooper]

I'm pretty sure the hydraulics will be able to handle the added weight. And yes she is heavy to carry from garage to backyard!! Like modelman said I think the issue lies with blade geometry. I'm going to try that first. I know she isn't under powered. Just need to get her hooking up right :)

[ihbuilder]

did you get oil-lite bushings or straight bronze ? Oil-lite is what you want . As for the blade , from what I can see , the whole thing is tilted too much to the front . Looks to me like it needs to come back so it just about touches the cylinders . right now it looks like your corners are doing all the work and the middle is gliding along . Another thing to remember the coal blade will carry more volume to weight in coal then soil . Meaning , soil is much heavier then coal .

looks great , speed looks good . More inspiration to get my TD40 goin :)

[Cooper]

Yes on the bushings. I actually got the ones impregnated with graphite instead of oil. Figured dry is better. And have looked into trying to get as much backward tilt by possibly moving tilt arms back or drilling new holes for the pins.

[Lmackattack]

Love how it turned out.....I agree that if you can get the angle of the blade tilted back farther it should be able to take bigger bites of dirt. This will also help with traction as the farther the dirt moves up the blade the more weight is put on the tracks.

[Bo Wallen]

Hey
Your local building supplier might have lead flashing rolls and you can cut strips or any sizes you like with your shear. I just got 17 lbs. for $ 2.52/lbs.
Just one idea.
Bo

[Cooper]

Well I came up with a combination of newer cutting edge and relocating pin hole closer on tilt cylinders
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/Mobile%20Uploads/10E19863-3FAE-474C-BEDE-2DCCC33140C4_zpsg1eswbeb.jpg (http://s1357.photobucket.com/user/cooperford/media/Mobile%20Uploads/10E19863-3FAE-474C-BEDE-2DCCC33140C4_zpsg1eswbeb.jpg.html)
Might get some smaller stock for cutting edge but you get the idea

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/Mobile%20Uploads/8399FBCB-D837-4A78-912D-C77F39C367D3_zps8rztg4p2.jpg (http://s1357.photobucket.com/user/cooperford/media/Mobile%20Uploads/8399FBCB-D837-4A78-912D-C77F39C367D3_zps8rztg4p2.jpg.html)
And this is as close as I can get the blade to the cylinders. When blade is fully lifted that is where the limit of how far I can tilt blade back before contact with cylinders.

[modelman]

Cooper-I think that was 9W talking about blade geometry. Wasn't me. That's kinda over my head. The only thing I know about dozers is that I would like to build one but that probably won't happen. I just watch videos, read the threads and try to learn from all the people on this great site. Common sense seems to go a long way and you have that. If you need more angle on the blade maybe as an experiment you could make small extensions for the front of your push arms and not have to go thru all that work of making new ones. I always say when trying to work out problems do the least amount of work possible to solve the problem and then make the correct parts. I'm sure you can get it right.

[Cooper]

Ok, sorry about getting confused of who, I'm happy with all the input everyone is adding!! I have been rained out today some some useful shop time for the dozer. So far I have relocated the pin holes for tilt cylinders. Not sure if I can get to cutting edge but will try. Want to get this done today so I can see how it works tomorrow. :). Yes I agree about making minimal parts for trying something new. Guess that's why I haven't got around to paint the cylinders. Originally I had shorter cylinders but they were too shot and remade them. Well should have looked closer as that's where so of it went wrong. Top of blade was originally ment to be level. Kind of like an indicator to operator of cutting edge position.

[Stuff]

I think its cool regardless of if it gives you problems or not. it's more dozer then I have!!

[doodlebug]

Hey Cooper, try and get the cutting edge's lower than the rest of the blade. then the sides won't hinder the cutting edge penetration. Looking good so far!
Cheers, Neil.

[Cooper]

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/Mobile%20Uploads/DE886CA2-EF07-41ED-BDAE-2D4541CB6E0B_zpscbntaktj.jpg (http://s1357.photobucket.com/user/cooperford/media/Mobile%20Uploads/DE886CA2-EF07-41ED-BDAE-2D4541CB6E0B_zpscbntaktj.jpg.html)
So much for digging at our Riverlot!!! We got 3" of rain and river came up, a lot!!

[Cooper]

I did bring over another load of dirt for the pond fill project. I have a long video that I did not film very well but I will upload when I get a landline. The dirt is more like mud, very wet and sticky but did get to push some with the help of the male dog. You'll see what I mean when I get the video up:). Tried to spray silicone on the blade but dirt is just too wet.

[Cooper]

Some more pushing today, came to the conclusion after the great constructive criticism that even the best machines will preform ill in mud. I was hoping that the dirt on top of my pile would be dry enough to test out the new blade and cutting edge but the soil was just too wet. Tracks fill with mud just by driving. I think this week I'll bring over some dirt that is more like sand. We have some piles of really good topsoil, pasture soil, sand and clay/shale stuff. I'm thinking for the toys the sandy stuff might be more fun to play in. ? And in the comparison of that d9, yes it's a true work of art but I'm on 1:14 scale and his 1:10 scale 97 pounder will definitely out push mine. One of these days when the soil is dry I'll get some good pushing video, and not just trying to get a full blade in 6 inches of travel.

[doodlebug]

Do you have a rototiller? Aerate the soil, so it will dry out faster.
Cheers, Neil.

[Cooper]

Yes Neil, if I have time this week I'm going to hook up the tiller and drive down to our Riverlot. With permission of landlord, he is just as entertained with the rc toys as we are. Then most of the finger roots in that area will be of no harm. As far as home pond project I started tearing down the cat. Figured it is a good time to paint cylinders. Inspect insides of tubes ect. And I also have to put some divots in the final drive shafts as the two set screws have started to rotate. This thing has a lot of power, I have two set screws on the larger sprockets, one with a flat spot milled on the shaft and they are shearing on the 1/2" shaft. I think I made those shafts out of stainless, I'm going to make new ones from some higher carbon steel. Looking back I guess I should have run her more before final paint but I'm still a big kid and can't wait!!! :). And have to use a little filler on the blade where the new cutting edge was attached. Hopefully I can get this done soon!!

[Cooper]

This is the video of the hose blow out. Right before end you can hear a pop and the blade is dragging as I'm going backwards.

http://youtu.be/GSz_tpY3xE4

[Cooper]

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/Mobile%20Uploads/DE142CEC-5904-41D0-BA31-FAEE212AE1AC_zpsjqbdahlw.jpg (http://s1357.photobucket.com/user/cooperford/media/Mobile%20Uploads/DE142CEC-5904-41D0-BA31-FAEE212AE1AC_zpsjqbdahlw.jpg.html)

I was able to get the vinyl cutter out during the rain showers today. These are the windows and cat decals. I don't have a multi color vinyl printer so I'm just placing layers.

[Cooper]

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/A200A285-DFF1-4AAD-8D12-71A75B2F9DF6_zpsrcdrwrum.jpg

[Cooper]

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/8EF3A1E7-D1F7-4A2B-AF9C-6C4B85D43B8C_zpszempw0cq.jpg

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/91968C9D-135F-4D1E-9B79-7A9796394F2D_zpsizo9zchu.jpg

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/0A804ADA-9221-4D2E-821D-11690DD9723D_zpsmpmxxe5b.jpg

Well she is finished!! I did end up adding a square key to the final drive sprocket, that really beefs the drive system up. I still have not got to stall the motors, I think the chain or track links will break first!! Only thing left to do is a lighting system. I have incorporated room for lights in the steps and for attaching lights to top of lift cylinders. Only creative area will be installing lights for backing up. Thanks sooooo much for all of your support and guidance!! This has really been a dream of mine since I was a little kid to run the real ones ( got to do that- d9) and to have a r/c dozer that is not a toy but a workhorse!!! Now I guess I need to get the Aeromax running for a heavy hauler and dump truck, and excavator, and wheel loader and,,, and,,,,,,it's all that crazy Canadians fault for getting my attention from some article that I have arrived here!!!!! :). Thank you!!

[tracksntreadslou]

Wow that looks good Cooper ..Yes I know Is joes fault ..He got me started as well .lol

[Cooper]

Yup, he has stirred a lot of pots!!! And I forgot to mention that I'm running at 20bar. That is enough to have the blade full with stickey mud dirt that she will lift. I don't know how much weight that is but it is a good bit. I also went back and took off .005 for the sealing ring seals. The shafts were just too tight. Works a lot better with less effort. I am currently using what ever hose premacon shipped me but I did get some higher psi rated 350-400 hose in case they get warm and swell/burst. If that happens I will be replacing.

[9W Monighan]

How is the blade working since the slight rebuild?

[Cooper]

Ah,, I would love to report on those modifications if,,,, we quit getting rain!!!!!!!! :(

It's been a little wet lately, that's why I have been doing some of this little final stuff. I did sand the paint off blade (help with dirt sliding) personally I don't see how it would make a difference paint was pretty slippery. And bondo the voids, just sprayed primer on the new cutting edge. It hasent seen dirt yet, will video some if I get chance tomorrow. And I put a pretty sharp edge on the ripper:) will help with cutting up roots. Yea, it's just alum but I was board. :)

[Cooper]

And tonight I got to the stone guards, step and handle on the tilt cylinder
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/BDE4BC14-EF4D-4A58-BBE6-C1DE9AD7C3F8_zpsjbvqwawy.jpg (http://s1357.photobucket.com/user/cooperford/media/BDE4BC14-EF4D-4A58-BBE6-C1DE9AD7C3F8_zpsjbvqwawy.jpg.html)

[DADSGARAGE]

Great job on the dozer....well done!!!:cool: Looking forward to seeing more vids....

[sparkycuda]

That's an awesome build! The details and the working-through-the-problems paid off greatly.

Ken

[modelman]

Looks a lot better with the color added. Breaks up the yellow nicely. Good job!!

[Bo Wallen]

It was Great and now it's Awesome ! All you need now is clear sky's no more Rain. Waiting for the Dirty Dozer Video :cool:

[kerst]

Great built!

kerst

[Azonic]

What a difference with the stickers, nice addition of details as well, great job!

How did you attach the handle on the cylinder? :)

[Cooper]

Ahhh winding down after the holiday weekend. I tried to upload some video but for the hd I need a landline. I will soon. Had another hose blow out so I switched all hoses to higher psi rating. I'm running around 300psi and hose is rated for 350. So I got that fixed ,,,I think :). And I'm becoming a little better operator, kinda like the 1:1, hate having to back up over speed bumps!!! Happy holidays for our vets!!!!

[Cooper]

http://youtu.be/Oc_4df_F7ck
Sorry I thought this was in hd, I uploaded this yesterday, just now got an email saing it was on utube!!

[modelman]

Looks like the dozer is working a bit better now. By just watching the video it looks like the up-down movement of the blade is too quick. May need to slow that down to get long full consistent pushes. Or maybe just need more stick time. The way the dirt is sticking to the blade I am assuming the dirt is wet. Yes-No? Also looks like you are controlling a lot of functions with the sticks. This will take a lot of practice but looks like you have the perfect place for that. Keep working.

[Cooper]

Yes she is working very well now. Just like a beginner operator usually goes too fast and uses too much blade movement I find myself doing the same thing. Once I get use to blade orientation to cutting edge along with stick movements I'm sure I'll be getting some consistent work done. I know I have been rather snappy with movements but I'm not going to slow them down mechanically as I still want to have that snap to be able to knock some dirt off. I will however have to be more discipline with my thumbs. And yes the dirt has been very wet, mud lately. Soil I have is sandy and drys quickly but we keep getting a shower now n then. And functions are, left stick=motion. Right stick= up /down blade and dump blade, switch enables right stick to be up/down blade and left/right tilt. Another switch changes right stick to ripper up/down and rip angle. Along with another switch turning on hydro pump to 35% then increased to 100% when any stick movement. Another switch is on/off relay for fan. I'm pretty happy with my creation and still amazed with how much power this thing has, have not stalled motors yet (would rather not find out) and now that tracks have some time on them they are running very smooth. I'll get so,e more videos in future. Thanks for watching.

[Cooper]

http://youtu.be/1ChTDkoDnns

This really show how wet the dirt has been.

[sparkycuda]

Your dozer looks and operates great! Waiting for some dry, non-clay soil so that big blade can do its carry-dozer routine. Love watching a huge mound of dirt being pushed a long distance in a slot-dozing operation - that's what they're for. Congratulations on a really nice model.

Ken

[Cooper]

Some interest in how I was using the radio and five valves. I made a short video on this.
http://youtu.be/4TBQySRu-Xs
And a bunch of dozer videos on my youtube page.

[Jack3M]

I have been scale modeling for over 55 years. Though my specialties have not been in metal, I have done significant subjects in perfect scale. Done this also with RC airplanes and helicopters. Finally after years and years I learned that almost scale is good enough to have loads of fun with and there isn't the fear factor of crashing and destroying the whole thing.

But, this build is one of the most, if not the most amazing builds I have ever read. Less than 1 year!!!:jaw:

The only grievance about all this is that the early machining and design weren't clearly shown. If I end up going there, there will be many questions. Not having a mill or the tooling, not sure if I could justify the tooling cost to build one.

Again, absolutely amazing head cad work. (Ya I think it is easier to make it from the mind over draw it too, and those computer cad programs take forever to learn and just don't click.)

And for those that have joined since all this, this is a good read.

[bigford]

R.W. built this dozer free hand no cad programs

[headers]

Cooper the dozer videos are the best Ive ever seen

[Cooper]

Thanks guys, more videos on the last page

http://www.rctruckandconstruction.com/showthread.php?t=9048&page=83

But to be honest and give credit where it belongs, I spent many hours looking and learning from all the awesome builds on this forum!!!

[headers]

Cooper your dozer videos are the best rc dozer I've seen great job that material you were pushing is ideal for that big truck yr making sweeeet

[ing85]

Congratulations Cooper!!! Your job is excelent :-)