View Full Version : 1/10 Liebherr Excavator R 984 Litronic
Markus K.
02-06-2014, 05:16 PM
Hi folks,
after the invitation to this forum i wanna introduce my actual build. I started in August 2011 with the first planings and I hope to finish the model in the upcoming year.
This Liebherr Excavator is normally used in mining and road construction and has a operation weight (backhoe attachment) of 120 metric tons. While I do the R984 my Buddy works on his R9100, whitch is a little smaller (well, not really). While he´s doing the milling parts I do most of the planing, lathe work and sheet metal welding. Sometimes I´ll throw in a picture from the R9100, but till now there are just a few. OK, enough, let´s start with the hardware!
Those parts are laser cut steel and 2mm to 5mm thick.
Markus K.
02-06-2014, 05:19 PM
And some more
Markus K.
02-07-2014, 03:19 PM
Hi Kevin,
thanks for your comment!
About TIG welding, this is certainly not my job or occupation and not every bead is nice, so I had to learn and practice. For me it was very helpful watch Jodie from weldingtipsandtricks (http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCqq70AnPkj4-UApS_m_6mPw). Most of his videos is about TIG welding, but he shows MIG and Stick, also. The 1st I learned was to change the Tungsten into a new grinded, sharp one once if it got stuck.
Most parts here I welded without filler rod, just heated up and melted the corners together.
Here some more pictures from the under carriage.
Markus K.
02-07-2014, 03:23 PM
...and some more. If there are any question feel free to ask!
dirtpusher9
02-07-2014, 06:44 PM
Welcome Markus. That's a great start to what will be a big beast when finished.
Markus K.
02-08-2014, 04:58 PM
Well, it is the best if you practice again and again. Today I welded a couple hours using grey tungsten and after a while I tested the gold ones. But those didn't work as well as the grey ones, I got stuck very often with the same settings on the welder. Because of this I switched back to the gray tungsten. Pictures from this welding will be posted later.
First some pictures from the 2-stage Planetary gear inside the drive wheel. Gear ratio is 20.36 : 1.
Markus K.
02-08-2014, 05:04 PM
Some more from the drive train. The gearbox is shimed with thin brass sheets for proper chain setup. The motors are brushless outrunner with 120 Watt and 760kv.
doodlebug
02-08-2014, 08:27 PM
Great job on the final drives! Keep the pictures coming.
Cheer's, Neil.
Fired up
02-08-2014, 09:02 PM
very nice
JAMMER
02-09-2014, 11:05 AM
Hi did you cut all the internal and external gears in you drive? If you did you did a very nice job. Ed
Markus K.
02-09-2014, 11:29 AM
Hi Ed,
just the internal gears are laser cut. In every drive is a stack of 10 sandpaper-cleaned pieces with a complete height of 20mm. Using thicker material is less/ poor quality. The internal gears were bought online. Sorry for the blurry picture, it shows one of the int. gears. The small brass gear was just for checking.
JAMMER
02-09-2014, 12:29 PM
Hello so you laser cut the internal gears, I was thinking you cut then your self and was wondering how you did it. Your way is a lot easer than broaching them and also buying the other gears saves a lot of time but you still did a nice job. Ed
Markus K.
02-09-2014, 12:33 PM
Ed, stay tuned! I'll come up with the turntable next. It has an internal gear, also, but bigger teeth and wasn't lasercut ;)
JAMMER
02-09-2014, 12:37 PM
OK I sure will be looking forward to that. Ed
Markus K.
02-10-2014, 07:54 AM
Hi folks,
here now the (original built) turntable. It has an internal gear with 107 teeth, modul 2. This gear are two parts, every one got a radius on the edge for the 5,5mm steel balls. The gear is bolted to the gear carrier with 48 screws.
Then there are two outer rings with a radius for the balls, also. They are filled with 135 balls and then evenly closed with 3 screws. The upper body of the excavator will be bolted with 45 screws to the turntable.
The internal gear was done by my buddy Michael on his cnc-mill with a 0.4mm endmill. The screws were made by myself, 96 pcs for this turntable and 288 for the Michaels turntable for the R9100.
As I mounted the stuff together I found out, that the turntable need much power for turning, so I had to improve. With a sharpie I colored the ball groove and used a 5.5mm Drill shaping the groove with the drill flange, about 3 or 4 times. Now it runs smooth and without any play.
Markus K.
02-10-2014, 07:58 AM
here are some selfmade screw-pics:
JAMMER
02-10-2014, 11:30 AM
Nice work on the screws but cutting the internal gear on a cnc mill that took some planning and skill with the CAD. Ed
Markus K.
02-10-2014, 12:29 PM
Ed, the CAD-work wasn't sooo hard. I used CATIA V with a plugin for gears. So I had only had to type in some numbers and voila... a single file came out with over 30 MB :jaw:
ihbuilder
02-10-2014, 06:31 PM
welcome Markus :) great job on the model so far :cool: Your slew assembly is exactly the way I am making them on my cat385s . I have my internal drawn and programed for the cnc mill comes to about 2 hrs cutting time .Just to find time to cut them :( . How long did it take to cut yours out ?
Markus K.
02-10-2014, 06:55 PM
I don't know exactly because my buddy is/ was doing the milling work. I think, the mill was running about 3-4 hours. We used pre-lasered parts for this. Here some more pictures from the fabrication.
JAMMER
02-11-2014, 09:45 AM
Hi Markus are you sure you used a 0.4 end mill to cut your ring gear that is like a hair diameter? If I am not mistaken that is steel you cut how many end mill did you break? 0.4 is .0155 inches are you sure you got that figure right? If it is right that was some fine work a great job. Ed
ihbuilder
02-11-2014, 10:12 AM
Hi Markus are you sure you used a 0.4 end mill to cut your ring gear that is like a hair diameter? If I am not mistaken that is steel you cut how many end mill did you break? 0.4 is .0155 inches are you sure you got that figure right? If it is right that was some fine work a great job. Ed
Ed , quite plausible with right feeds and speeds to depth of cut hence the long run times . Also , rigidity of machine is a big + , the lil grizzly's will not handle that size without breaking them . I have run .01" already . another thing , tool run out will kill em in these sizes .
Markus K.
02-11-2014, 03:08 PM
Hi Ed, you're right! I asked Michael, who milled the stuff and he used an endmill with 0.4mm radius to match the contour. So it was a 0.8mm mill. Sorry for this and thank you for your attention.
Markus
Lil Giants
02-11-2014, 04:14 PM
The intricate machining involved is beyond my scope of imagination. :eek:
Do you use any lube on the balls?
Markus K.
02-11-2014, 04:25 PM
Joe, of course I added some grease to the balls before final mounting. A grease nipple on a hidden place would be perfect for maintenance...
Markus K.
02-12-2014, 07:40 AM
Hi Kevin, sure it´s insane! Before I started this model i planed it in 1/8 scale. Then I met Michael, he was a 1/12 guy. We came together in the middle and choosed 1/10 for our excavators and upcoming models. Well, in 1/10 scale i think the R984 will reach the 120 Kg.
This project is running since September 2011 and there are a lot of things finished, whitch I'll post shortly, so watch out for the counterweight, some reilings, the hydraulic cylinder, boom, stick(s, the R9100 is a little different), hydraulic quick coupler, bucket and of course the chains.
I saw your pics and videos on youtube with your excavator, a 984c, also ;-)
greets Markus
JAMMER
02-12-2014, 09:59 AM
Hi Markus you said you used a laser to cut parts did you use a laser to cut the rough gear teeth and then finished them off with the mill or did you cut the hole gear with a mill? It was some excellent work. Ed
Markus K.
02-12-2014, 02:38 PM
Ed, I gave Michael the cadfiles and he odered the lasercut steel rings. See attached some pictures, whitch shows the lasercut rings, turning the 5.5mm round groove into the internal gear on the lathe and milling the slew ring carriers out of a 30mm steel plate.
Kevin, you've to wait for motion pictures :jump:
Markus K.
02-13-2014, 07:56 AM
Good morning,
here the first pictures from the cylinder fabrication. I made them for the R984 and R9100. They are made of brass tubes and chromed piston rods. Gaskets are industrial hydraulic standart. Here you see the hoist cylinders of the R984. They have a bore of 24mm and a stroke of 200mm.
More pictures later today!
cheers!
JAMMER
02-13-2014, 10:39 AM
Hello Markus well this is some more very nice work. I see you soldered every thing together. I my self would have preferred threading the barrels but it your parts so who am I to tell you how to do it's only a suggestion. You are moving right along you will be moving dirt very soon. Ed
Markus K.
02-13-2014, 03:07 PM
Thank you, Ed. No problem with any suggestion or different fabrication methods, this could bring some new ideas for following stuff. So they are very welcome! But in this case I want to do it scale and the cylinder can be opened by removing the (again selfmade) hex-bolts M3 from the head.
This pictures shows the rod at the piston end. It has a diameter of 16mm and received a M10 thread and a groove for the gasket. The piston was finished directly mounted on the rod for 100% center fit. After all I think the loctite on the thread should be enough to seal the rod and piston, but the o-ring can't be bad, either.
The bottom parts of the cylinder were silver soldered, because there wasn't a area big enough for soft soldering. To avoid desoldering of the cylinderheads i put them upside down in a small bucket of water.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v150/protrker/Markus%20K%20Liebherr%20984/attachment5_zps2fd3deec.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v150/protrker/Markus%20K%20Liebherr%20984/attachment4_zps353fec14.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v150/protrker/Markus%20K%20Liebherr%20984/attachment3_zps530fe5a0.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v150/protrker/Markus%20K%20Liebherr%20984/023b0498_zps4f206ad0.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v150/protrker/Markus%20K%20Liebherr%20984/attachment1_zpsda1e25a1.jpg
JAMMER
02-13-2014, 03:13 PM
Markus very nice work on the cylinders. Permatex has a special compound for sealing cylinders and hydraulics I use it all the time and it works real good. At the moment I do not have the number for it but if you want it I can get it for you. Ed
Markus K.
02-13-2014, 03:25 PM
Then the tube needed a clean-up. For this i made a simple 4 jaw chuck, whitch worked really fine for this light cut. After this i made some brass cubes for connecting the pipes. Again I made a little tool to chuck the square stock centric in the 3 jaw.
Ah, Permatex! Amazon supply this stuff in Germany. I'll take a try on the cylinders for the next model.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v150/protrker/Markus%20K%20Liebherr%20984/attachment6_zpsc007f34a.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v150/protrker/Markus%20K%20Liebherr%20984/attachment7_zps3bb96f68.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v150/protrker/Markus%20K%20Liebherr%20984/attachment8_zpsb414b9b1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v150/protrker/Markus%20K%20Liebherr%20984/attachment9_zpsb42d4bd7.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v150/protrker/Markus%20K%20Liebherr%20984/attachment10_zpsc1308950.jpg
Markus K.
02-13-2014, 03:40 PM
There are more pictures from the cylinders, so here we go. Pic 1 and 2 is the bucket cylinder (equal on the R984 and the R9100). Pic #3 is the stick cylinder (single on the R9100 with a much bigger diameter, 30mm bore and 18mm rod), pic #4 is a hoist cylinder for the R9100 and the last pc shows the front end of the R984-hoist cylinder in detail.
Hope, those many pictures are not boring you guys!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v150/protrker/Markus%20K%20Liebherr%20984/attachment11_zps66ac6e7b.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v150/protrker/Markus%20K%20Liebherr%20984/attachment14_zpsf790243a.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v150/protrker/Markus%20K%20Liebherr%20984/attachment12_zpsf2864c88.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v150/protrker/Markus%20K%20Liebherr%20984/attachment13_zps4b8c76a1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v150/protrker/Markus%20K%20Liebherr%20984/attachment15_zps6d771cec.jpg
JAMMER
02-13-2014, 04:02 PM
Ah some more of you excellent work. The tube bending is hard I have done some on my excavator. Ed
Markus K.
02-13-2014, 04:33 PM
I just found out, that there is no picture in my album just showing a completed cylinder, anyway, here a last pic for now from the cylinders.
Then I wanna continue with some railing work i did for both excavators. It´s all brass tubes with 4mm diameter, just the same as for the hydraulic pipes. The railings in the last 2 pics belong to the R9100. I used a small tube bender (http://www.modellbau-profi.de/Werkzeuge-Messgeraete/Rohrbieger/Simprop-Du-Bro-Rohrbieger-5-32-4-mm::6210.html) and a microflame to heat up the pipes before bending. That makes the brass soft.
RCKiwi
02-14-2014, 02:44 AM
Very nice machine work. Clever turning jigs! I'm watchin til she turns sod
Keep up the good work and keep them pictures coming! :)
Lil Giants
02-14-2014, 05:31 AM
The best is yet to come... wait till you see how big the digging bucket is. :eek: :D
Markus K.
02-14-2014, 07:47 AM
Thanks for sharing Markus! :)These parts look extremely beautiful! ;)I also found it difficult to do cooper blazing with different material, i.e. my cylenders are made with SS304 but tube was cooper. Even I heat it to extreme high temperature, join won't hold very well. But yours are all the same...blazing result shoudl be good.
I am a big fan of your R984C!
Best regards,
Kevin
@Kevin
Hi, what kind of soldering/ brazing? Silver or soft? Did you use any flux?
@Joe
well, yes... the bucket...:cool: don't forget the chains :)
let me just throw in the counter weight. It was milled from a solid Aluminum block 410x180x80mm with a weight of 16Kg. The finished Block is round about 5Kg and way too light. It will receive some inlays from lead to bring it to the necessary weight again. I try to bring it up to 17Kg. First some drawings, you can see the lead blocks inside the weight, how it should be finished and right from the mill.
JAMMER
02-14-2014, 09:22 AM
Hi Markus that Permatex sealant is Permatex Viscosity Hydraulic Pipe Sealant # 54550 I get it in 50 Ml bottle on line for $24 and change from ALL-Spec Ind . Ed
Markus K.
02-14-2014, 04:11 PM
Thanks for the #number, Ed!
Markus
Markus K.
02-16-2014, 05:33 AM
Good morning,
today the first boom pictures. I choose the short one for the model. It measures from main bolt mounting to stick bolt mounting 780mm.
It's not only a foursided housing, there is some structure inside to stiffen the whole thing. As you can see, the drum inside is made with two halfs whitch were welded together. The outer diameter is 74mm.
Markus K.
02-16-2014, 05:44 AM
some more...
it came together very well, all parts got mounting noses and holes like a puzzle again for easier setup. Then the noses were welded at the outside to avoid warpage. Michael did an amazing job on the mill and fabricated the massive steelpart. It will take the two stick cylinders.
The stickside of the boom were doubled up with some lasercut parts and after this I wrapped a belt strap around the sandwiched parts.
DADSGARAGE
02-17-2014, 11:18 PM
Wow Markus....really like this build !! Great ideas, excellant workmanship and a larger 1/10 scale...looking forward to seeing more..well done!!
What is the size of the bucket??
Markus K.
02-20-2014, 03:48 AM
thank you guys for your comments. I'm looking forward to show the stick today.
About the bucket, well, it fits to the machine ;-) it is a massive HD Bucket for digging rocks. Sure I'll need some other ones for digging in sod and topsoil, the Rock bucket will be rather ineffective for this. For easy changing there will be a hydraulics operated quick coupler. The bucket needs some more welding, but I ran out of gas for the tig.
greets Markus
Markus K.
02-21-2014, 07:20 AM
Hi guys,
here some stick work. I made two of them, one fits to Michaels R9100. The lathe bcame more and more useful, here I did the slope on the frontend parts of the stick. It comes together very well, but due to double cylinder action I did a little line boring and reaming on my lathe.
Markus K.
02-21-2014, 07:26 AM
Here are both together
Markus K.
02-21-2014, 07:37 AM
And the last ones including the levers and the pushrod. The first picture shows a bushing, it will be loctited in. Markus
JAMMER
02-21-2014, 09:29 AM
Markus I will have to say it again excellent work. Your getting closer to the dig. Ed
Markus K.
02-27-2014, 05:25 PM
Thank you, Ed. But I've to go a long way to the end, remember, this project started in September 2011. But I think it's going down the hill!
We come closer to the bucket but first I'll show up with the OilQuick120 quick coupler. Fortunately I was supported from the manufacterer with a drawing and some really good pictures. For this I had to made some really small double-acting cylinders. First tests with compressed air were successful.
Half of the parts were lasercut parts, the others were milled/ premachined by Michael. First I drilled the 1mm holes up to 1.3mm for tapping with 1.6mm (I'm proud to tap 48 holes without breaking that little sucker). Later there will be screwed covers whitch will hold the bolts in place.
The cylinders are simple brass tubes with the head soldered in place. Then I did some internal lathe work for the o-rings on the front and for the lockring on the backside. Really simple made.
Markus K.
02-27-2014, 05:29 PM
After this a lot of tig-welding and some sandblasting. The last picture shows how the locking bolts locks the bucket.
That planetary is a thing of beauty. Keep the updates and pictures coming.
Markus K.
03-05-2014, 07:17 AM
Hi folks,
@Avel: thanks for your comment!
@all: I know you're all waiting for bucket-pictures. Well, here they are, but it´s not finished yet. There´s a little more welding to do, but I think it´s recognizable.
The teeth are sandwich-made using two halfs of lasercut sheetmetal, each 10mm thick. Could be the canines of a grizzly :D The knife is 12mm and needs some milling first (like the teeth).
Markus K.
03-05-2014, 07:24 AM
and the next ones. The bucket without the knife is for my college Michael, he's got some different teeth (toothcarrier and crown). Anyway, he did a great milling work.
Markus K.
03-05-2014, 07:25 AM
Here the last ones, just a simply size comparation.
Have fun while watching!
JAMMER
03-05-2014, 09:24 AM
What a monster this going to be. You have done some great work on the buckets lots of fine detail. Great work. Ed
Lil Giants
03-06-2014, 03:17 PM
It's just incredible that you can fit a gallon jug into the bucket... that model is gonna be just massive! I can't wait to see the pictures of you standing next to the finished model! :cool:
I thought your colleague Michael was building a front shovel? :confused:
Markus K.
03-06-2014, 04:06 PM
thanks for your comments!
it's even more than a gallon! Today I was a little scared by myself :eek:, I put the stick on the bucket. The phone right next to it is a usual size.
No, Michael builds a backhoe attached R9100. Here two pictures showing the stainless steel laser-sintered toothcrown and the knife. Markus
Lil Giants
03-06-2014, 08:22 PM
Your 1st pic with the stick & bucket, drop that assembly on a scale, let's see what it weighs... then how about a pic with you standing beside it for a size reference? :D
Trucker_Jo
03-06-2014, 10:12 PM
Wow this thing is going to be massive! Very nice looking build so far:D
Markus K.
04-05-2014, 12:24 PM
Hi there,
long time nothing new and sorry Joe for don't answering your question earlier. About the weight of this assembly, I didn't use a scale but CAD says round about 15.2Kg :eek:
I wanna continue with the chains, they are already finished several month ago. Each chainlink is made of 14 parts: a right and left side part, a small tube, a second tube used as a roller, the bolt, the shoe, four screws and four selfmade! 4-sided nuts. The side-parts and the shoes did my buddy Michael, I did all the tubes, bolts and nuts on my lathe (200 bolts, 400 tubes and 800 Nuts). Simply check out the pics!
Markus K.
04-05-2014, 12:32 PM
the small tubes were pressed into the side-parts, receiving the roller-tubes first. Then connected with the bolt through the small tubes, the bolts were loctited into the left side parts. The last bolt is secured with a little worm screw placed under a chain shoe (1.st picture). As a reminder for the invisible chain lock there is a small center boring in the lock bolt.
The shoes were made of steel while the side parts were made out of aircraft aluminum.
JAMMER
04-05-2014, 02:08 PM
Markus the bucket weighs 33.5 Lbs you are going to need a crane to lift it and move it when it is all finished. Excellent work and a lot of detail it's coming along well. It ought to be able to move some dirt when finished. Ed
Markus K.
04-05-2014, 02:22 PM
Ed, the bucket is 'just' about 16 pounds, 33.5 pounds includes the stick, cylinder and quickcoupler together. Remember pic no 1 in posting #66. Markus
Lil Giants
04-05-2014, 04:16 PM
Painstaking work on them tracks Markus, but no doubt they work perfectly. :cool:
What tell tale mark did you make to find the connecting link bolt within the tracks to find it easily after entire assembly has long since been completed?
Markus K.
04-05-2014, 05:15 PM
Joe, this last bolt received a small drill mark with a center drill on the lathe. Just find this one and remove the pad.
first i cut off all cubes (4.5 by 4.5mm) with a parting tool; then I used a homemade chuck for finishing one ofter the other. It took me round about 2 minutes/ average per nut - over 26 hours total! The tubings and bolts were a piece of cake compared to this!
The chain is just thrown over the beams for the picture, the rollers are missing here. With rollers in place the chain got more tension, there is less hanging as you can see here. But it's recognizable.
Lil Giants
04-05-2014, 08:13 PM
The 4th pic, is the tabletop a meter square?
Markus K.
04-05-2014, 08:28 PM
no, it isn't. The side you see in pic #4 is 80cm. The tracked beam is about ~650mm in length. The table in this picture got a tabletop length of 125cm.
Espeefan
04-05-2014, 09:43 PM
Wow, this a big project! By big, I mean massive model! Incredible metalworking. Your attention to detail is amazing. The time consuming process of machining the track components alone is crazy. Definitely a labor of love. I'll never complain about having to make duplicate parts of 4 ever again!
Markus K.
05-09-2014, 05:41 PM
Hi Folks,
it´s hard for me to find some time for working in the excavator-shop, but I did some construction work for the tubings and hoses to find out, what I've to order. All of them are needed for hydraulics except the one on top of the other. This is just for show, originally it's used for the lubrication/ grease line.
Here some results... I hope I can fab those parts. Markus.
Erik79
05-09-2014, 06:49 PM
Hi Markus, to comment this work a word is enough.... AMAZING!
I like in particular the project and the construction of the transmission.
My compliments!
Markus K.
05-10-2014, 07:54 PM
Thanks guys!
here my solution for the hydraulics inside the upper structure. I'll use a 3 section main valve, whitch handles the boom, stick and bucket. Exactly it is a double section valve (stick and bucket) and a single section valve (hoist) in one housing, it has two oilsupports and can be operated with two pumps..
This valve is mounted to the main distribution block, whitch also carries a smaller valve on the right side for operating the quick coupler. This block lowers the amount of hoses and helps cooling the oil. And it gives a clean look.
To support all valves with oil I constructed a pressure relief valve with 3 outputs, each seperated from the other with a check valve. A 4th output is for the pressure gauge.
Markus K.
05-10-2014, 08:02 PM
here some more; the pump is direct driven and if my math are correct it will deliver round about 2 Liters/min under full load whitch will be set at 35 Bar/ ~500 PSI
Markus K.
05-11-2014, 05:50 AM
There's no gear reduction in the pump. The Motor has 353KV when taking 10 amps; the revs lowers for each more amp about 4KV.
The hydraulic power output (35 Bar at 2 L/min) is 117W. For the pump I calculated 50% efficiency, so it need round about 235W on the shaft.
Due to the pump size (0.6cm³/rev) there must be a torque of 0.67Nm to reach 35 Bar. Control calculation brings ~3350 revs.
Those pumps are used very often in models, it is small and an industrial one. Markus
Markus K.
05-12-2014, 01:25 PM
Kevin, I'll use 4s LiFePo, that's about 13V.
The pump (http://www.jung-fluid.de/standard-right-handed-ipz-1-hr.html) itself can take revs up to 8000 (shortly) and 4000revs for a 100% running time (with HLP46 fluid). Feel free to find the data sheet for the IPZ1-HR-10 (0.6cm³/Rev)
If you know the size and efficiency of your pump you can calculate the torque it needs on the shaft:
1.59 (a fixed factor) x 0.6cm³ (amount of oil at exactly one rev) x 35 Bar (difference between input and output pressure) : 50 (efficiency) = Nm (Newtonmeter)
This torque is needed for 35 Bar at any speed! To calculate the input power for the pump you have to go this way:
Revs x Torque : 9550 (a fixed factor, also) equals Power (in Kilowatt)
Now you've to find a motor whitch generates the right amount of torque running at the right speed. My choice is a Torcman 350-20 (http://www.torcman.de/motoren/NT350/nt350zl_e.htm) with 14pole and 28 windings. This company fabricates the motors in a standard program, but also they make them special to fit your project (amount of windings over 30).
Anyway, I didn't check this out yet but I believe Torcman's answers and datasheets. If I start testing the hydraulic I'll let you know and post the result.
Markus K.
05-13-2014, 03:21 AM
Hi Kevin,
I wouldn't do this. Better you make a drain to the suction side of the pump to get rid of leak oil. Markus.
JoelSund
03-21-2015, 04:31 PM
Hi
I must say that it was a very good looking 984.
I can not believe how you make all the parts. Do you have the original drawings or do you have an excavator disassembled that you copy?
To my next question. I have repaired a 984 many times and my brother drives one at the job. He is totally in love with it.
So I have planned to do a small copy of the counterweight to his birthday, but I have problems with the drawings. then I saw that you've just made one of those, and one that looked very much like the original.
So I was thinking of doing a little long shot and hear if you stil have the cad drawings and if you want to sell a copy to me.
I would be very grateful if you could. I'm a little tired of climbing on the machine with my measuring tape :)
Best regards, Joel Sundstrom
Markus K.
12-28-2015, 01:08 PM
Hi Folks,
long time passed by and for some reasons i couldn't work real much on the project. Hopefully this will change in the next weeks. Anyway, a little work was done. First I made some drawings for more lasered and waterjet cut pieces for doing the pipework on the boom. Parts are made from steel, brass and polyamid/ nylon.
First some parts for keeping the bolts in place. The bolts with the rings are screwed together. The main bolt takes a endcap and those parts clamps the ring - just simple. The locking assembly is screwed with m1.6 screws to the frame. For setting the thread at the right place I used some drilling jigs.
Markus K.
12-28-2015, 01:17 PM
Next was some work on the motor housing. Drawings were made for lasercutting and bending. For welding I used a big chunk of aluminum to draw out the heat. After welding I did some filing work. The whole cover is screwed together, I won't use hinges for single opening the lids. In case I take of the whole mounting.
JAMMER
12-28-2015, 02:17 PM
Hello Markus K great job on the tracks I really like them so I will take 600 hundred links how soon can you have them done?:bounce: All kidding aside you have done a great job on building this excavator. Ed
Lil Giants
12-28-2015, 02:21 PM
Great to see you back it Markus. :)
Nifty work on the pin lock mechanism. :cool:
DADSGARAGE
12-28-2015, 04:03 PM
Just went through this thread again and must say this is an amazing build, all the details are astounding!! WOW!! Really like the scale too...looking forward to seeing more pics!! Keep up the top notch workmanship!!!
KP
Markus K.
12-29-2015, 03:41 AM
Next I had to improve the pipe holder for the bucket cylinder. I desoldered the brass holder and used a piece of steel. Screws also in M1.6, using a 1.3mm Drill (~ 50 thou) in the brass pieces.
http://www.rctruckandconstruction.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=5450&stc=1&d=1451373755
http://www.rctruckandconstruction.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=5455&stc=1&d=1451373608
Pipeclamps, waterjet cut, then separated and drilled with a drill jig
http://www.rctruckandconstruction.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=5457&stc=1&d=1451374066
http://www.rctruckandconstruction.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=5458&stc=1&d=1451374153
And the whole assembly
http://www.rctruckandconstruction.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=5459&stc=1&d=1451374274
filippog
03-16-2016, 09:29 AM
Hi Markus,
i gave a look to your project and it is very good. I am trying to build a cat 385 CL and i have one question for you. Where did you buy the hydraulic distributors: I am looking for open centers distributors, I am using a Marzocchi pump 0,32 cc/rev.
Thanks a lot.
Filippo
Markus K.
03-18-2016, 05:29 PM
Hello Filippo, i bought the Valve´s in a small shop in Germany. Unfortunately he don´t support an online shop.
Did you already check the Premacon Shop (http://shop.premacon.com/index.php?cPath=35_106)?
Stefan
03-19-2016, 07:12 AM
Hello Markus,
for some regrettable reason your build has evolved under my radar all the time until now although we are posting in the same forum section. I´ve just read through the complete thread and after having wiped off the drool from the keyboard I can just conclude that I lack the proper words for describing my amazement and awe.
I just wanted to ask you if the waterjet cutting service you used has an online presence (like laser cutting by CutWorks)?
Thanks for letting us share,
Stefan
Markus K.
03-19-2016, 11:30 AM
Hello Stefan,
thank you for your comment.
Those parts are "swissmade" www.waterjet.ch/de (http://www.waterjet.ch/de/porträt). They were just fabricated within a bigger order from another modelbuilder. He did all the communication with this company. But they already have an upload possibility, so I think you can place your Order online.
Markus
filippog
03-22-2016, 09:29 AM
Hallo Markus, yes I did check Premacon, they are sellin Jung valves if i am not wrong, but i believe they are not with open centers. the only open centers i found are from Meinhard from Germany and he does not support on line shop and as far as I know the delivery is very long. Thanks for info.
Filippo
Lil Giants
03-22-2016, 10:07 AM
Hallo Markus, yes I did check Premacon, they are sellin Jung valves if i am not wrong, but i believe they are not with open centers. the only open centers i found are from Meinhard from Germany and he does not support on line shop and as far as I know the delivery is very long. Thanks for info.
Filippo
The Premacon valves are the Meinhardt design made in steel by? ...is it Jung? Why the need to have them made in steel is beyond me. :confused:
All of Fumotec's valves come from Meinhardt.
calum_scania
03-22-2016, 04:16 PM
The Premacon valves are the Meinhardt design made in steel by? ...is it Jung? Why the need to have them made in steel is beyond me. :confused:
All of Fumotec's valves come from Meinhardt.
Joe I ordered valves from Premacon and they are the exact same as fumotec supply but made of steel. My reasoning was to add a little extra weight to the machine
Calum
Markus K.
03-23-2016, 08:20 PM
Hi folks,
yes, I´m using Meinhardt Valves (the big Mega Blocks - i´ve to handle about 2 liters per minute). He don´t support an online shop and he makes not as many as he could sell. Because he don´t need to, it´s not his business, it´s his hobby.
Premacon Valves are fabricated by Jung Fluid. But I can´t tell wether those are open or closed center. I simply would ask premacon via mail.
sinkMe
03-24-2016, 05:10 AM
I have valves from Premacon and Fumotec. They are exactly the same... in steel, with closed center.
filippog
03-24-2016, 09:16 AM
Hi everybody,
Premacon valves are closed center, i have just received info from them.
sinkMe
03-24-2016, 02:53 PM
Hi everybody,
Premacon valves are closed center, i have just received info from them.
.. as I mention in the post above
Markus K.
03-24-2016, 02:59 PM
by the way, why do you need open center valves? You might run into problems, when using two different motions at once.
And you simply can "simulate" an open center valve by using an additional closed center. You just have to mix it to your working valves in that way, that it opens just in the moment when you don´t use the hydraulic.
sinkMe
03-24-2016, 04:35 PM
by the way, why do you need open center valves? You might run into problems, when using two different motions at once.
And you simply can "simulate" an open center valve by using an additional closed center. You just have to mix it to your working valves in that way, that it opens just in the moment when you don´t use the hydraulic.
Like loadsensing
http://www.fumotec.de/englisch/detailloesungen/load-sensing/index.php
vBulletin® v3.8.6, Copyright ©2000-2025, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.