View Full Version : LR634 is HERE!!!!! Tracked loader
Just received it!! I wasn't expecting anything as the status online hadn't changed, so BIG surprise, yahoo!!!!!!:bounce:
thercfreak2012
03-31-2014, 09:34 PM
Where's the pictures
liftmys10
04-01-2014, 12:11 AM
comeee on!! picss??? I understand :)
jack van
04-01-2014, 12:26 AM
i think it was a dream rofl
https://plus.google.com/photos/108204472862807091548/albums/5997179324048311681?authkey=CLCs-auWn8PlhQE
There you go.
I need to set up a photobucket account, this new google+ is confusing.
ok here is the box
its a big box
I ordered two of these 28mm dia aluminum heatsinks from hobbyking, if I need to I can squeeze it down and use it on the oil pump.
The fan fits! Well if I cut down the stock weight. I have plenty of lead to make up for the weight loss. It's an idea if I decide to put together a brass grill thingy to replace the plastic one.
Another picture of the heatsink. I've made them myself before by clamping the heatsink around wooden dowels in a vise and/or using a big hammer.
Nice big ol' battery! And it fits!!! I was worried it wouldn't. It's a little long but I can cut the weight down or cut a slot at the opposite end so that the battery can slide in that last part. It's a two cell 8 amp battery, should give me plenty of run time.
Here is the battery being charged/tested with a cheapo Turnigy charger. The charger charges via the balance leads, so its very sloooooowww. The grey brick is an Xbox 360 power adapter. It puts out 12 volts, up to 16.5 amps. The Turnigy charger maxes out at 800mAh charging, so the big 8000 battery will take quite a while to charge. I also bought a 3S battery for the Turnigy 9x transmitter. Now I need to clean the place up so that I can start working on the LR634.
Any suggestions on posting? Text and then pictures? Or an explanation first then the corresponding picture? Or maybe pictures first and then an explanation at the end? Also if the posted pictures are too big, sorry. I tried to set photobucket up to post 800x600 pictures, but I am still posting 1024x768 pictures.
Also need any measurements, just ask. Goodnight, I'm going to bed.
Any opinions on this following idea? I am really leaning towards using some JB Weld and filling in where the tabs fit into the slots on the metal chassis/shovel. Then sanding everything so the tab and slot construction isn't visible on the outside. Also on the shovel there are gaps and hollow places that will fill up with debris and I am thinking of using JB Weld to "weld" those gaps closed. Easier to clean, and I think will look better. Now first I am going to do some research to make sure I don't go overboard, but the way it is assembled they only welded certain spots at the factory. Also I think I have some slag in a hollow on the shovel, I can hear it bouncing around in there. I am going to try to squirt some glue in there to catch it.
Any thoughts? Ideas?
The noise in the shovel wasn't slag like I said.
I was just taking pictures of the tabs and noticed that two angled pieces on the shovel are just floating within their slots. They were making the noise.
I will post some pictures to better describe my idea to JB weld and sand some of the tabs/seams.
JAKEBRAKE
04-01-2014, 10:56 PM
If I'm understanding your idea for the JB Weld, I would prep the area first with sandpaper or a grinding tip on a dremmel. Then tape your outside edges, apply your JB Weld with a toothpick or something with a small tip, and pull off your tape before it dries. This will give you nice seems and scuffing the metal will help the JB Weld to stick.
I will definitely be cleaning the surface first, it has some kind of oil on it. I have mineral spirits/rubbing alcohol etc. Good idea with the tape, I wouldn't of thought of that. Less sanding and finishing work for me.
Ok, following will be pictures of areas that I really want to hit with JB Weld for appearance and strength purposes, oh and to make clean up easier. First will be a zoomed out picture than a zoomed in picture of the particular area.
On an area like the below picture, if I wasn't sure I could keep the edge sharp I was thinking of applying the JBWeld to the inside.
Both of these cylinder attachment points need cleaning up and I want to JBWeld the little gaps for strength. I'm sure thick enough paint could make it disappear, but the JBWeld would strengthen the area. Pictures below.
Another area I want to hit.
Gaps here.
In the picture below I would like to close off the gap, except where you can see the other side. Dirt would get stuck in there.
Now this area since it has a screw, I could use a weaker filler material in case I need to access the screw sometime in the future.
The two triangular pieces are loose and were making the noise.
This one and the one to the left under my thumb.
Yeah nothing exciting. Hopefully this weekend I start assembling and/or JBWelding and sanding the seams.
Almost forgot. Those Turnigy chargers only charge each lipo cell to around 4.15v, not the full 4.20v. Now this will increase the useful life of the cell, the con is less run time. Just wanted to put that information out there if anyone was thinking of purchasing a couple.
I bought some silicone lubricant spray. I want to use it on the tracks to make it easier to get the mud off. We used to use it at Esco before painting in the spray booths. Worked great.
topher1266
04-02-2014, 12:09 AM
Too bad your not close to me I would tig weld most of that and mig what I could. Would be a whole lot less sanding.
Claus
04-02-2014, 12:32 AM
As nice of a model, and very well built as it is, it's a real shame it takes so much work to clean it up.
Can't wait to see it finished.
Yes, yes, I need to learn how to weld. I might take a welding class, maybe find someone experienced to do it for me if I get tired of sanding.
Yes it is a nice model, I keep holding parts of it in my hands just examining everything. I just don't want to rush this model. I still haven't prepared my "workspace". Hopefully this weekend I get some parts assembled.
headers
04-02-2014, 01:49 AM
Nice machine avel your gonna have a good time moving dirt and stuff around.
P.s. hydraulics is not to difficult once you understand them and if you have any questions juat ask and myself or someone on the forum will help you out
MoRockN
04-02-2014, 03:16 PM
Congrats on the new machine!! You're gonna love it! Ask if you have any questions, I've built one and have had zero problems with the welds. Space however is very limited so plan ahead for that.
Oh I know, I have read your build thread over and over trying to glean as much information as I could before buying the model and while waiting for the model to arrive.
I'm going to go spray the tracks with the silicone lubricant, hopefully there isn't any bad reaction with the nylon used for the tracks. I wish Carson would go into more detail on what type of nylon they used. Oh well, worst that could happen is I ruin them and have to then purchase some metal tracks. Oh no ;)
titandigs
04-02-2014, 09:41 PM
If I was you I would not spray the tracks with any lubricant . With my 634 there is enough dirt that sticks to tracks and they are dry.
Great model to use , you will enjoy it when you have it running.
Good luck with your build.
JAKEBRAKE
04-02-2014, 10:05 PM
Wow!!! I see what you mean about being tired of sanding after seeing how many areas you want to dress up. Well that's part of the fun with building, you are never done... You will have a lot of fun with this build. It looks like a very nice model!
Well I did it. I sprayed the silicone lubricant on the tracks and am waiting for it to dry completely. Earlier this morning I was modifying my transmitter.
First I tucked the antenna inside.
Then I replaced the annoying speaker with a red LED. Just soldered it in, nothing fancy.
Ok the tracks. I washed and dried them and then placed them on some tape with the sticky side up.
Here is the silicone lubricant I used, picked it up at Home Depot.
Here are the tracks after being sprayed and drying for about 2 hours. Also I held the board upside down for awhile and tilted it in different directions. I put on too many coats at once.
About the sanding, I kind of enjoy that kind of "work". Anyway I am tiiiired, hopefully more updates tomorrow.
Just woke up about 30 minutes ago and still slightly wet. I wish I had gone with thinner coats. Then again it hasn't even been 24 hours.
Putting the tracks together, just finished one side. Taking a break. Also covered some areas in JB Weld on the main chassis, areas where if I screw up it won't be seen, not that it can't really be fixed. Also glad I read up on how to properly use it, found out that rubbing alcohol is to be avoided for cleaning, also anything with petroleum distillates in it. Acetone, lacquer thinner and soap and water are recommended. I bought some acetone. Also last night I installed ER9X on the transmitter. Has a lot more options and capabilities.
I dropped the "bell crank" replacement from Leimbach onto the floor and bent it, yay me.
Bent the crank back into shape as best as I could.
I replaced the grease in the drive motors, filed and sanded down the valve servos to fit. Finally figured out how to use ER9X on the transmitter. JB welded the bucket and some of the body. Lots of sanding. Painted the bucket and some of the body. Got frustrated with painting. Sanded, painted some more. Oh and finally broke my SD card for the camera, more tape and glue than plastic.
Here I mixed too much JBWeld so I thinned it with acetone, pressed a track pad into some regular clay and poured it in. Just for fun.
Phone picture
Claus
04-10-2014, 07:10 AM
You probably already know this but get some cheap fingernail files like you wife uses to do her nails. You can bend them in tight places or break them off, they work pretty well on sanding down the cold weld.
Good luck, you have some tight places to work in there.
The sanding is done. I totally forgot about fingernail files, I have a whole pack of them. I bought them for my other hobby, model railroading.
I used a Dremel and sandpaper to smooth everything out.
Claus
04-18-2014, 08:08 PM
Any progress?
No not much. I tacked the plastic cab/body shell together with low temp hot glue, and found out that I don't have to cut anything to get the battery in if it sits at an angle. Also soldered some wires to the drive motors.
Screw painting, I want to play! Well I spent the last 6 hours assembling, everything except the hydraulics and details like the railing and other plastic parts. I must of spent an hour trying to get the spring clip onto the center pin for the front suspension piece. Basically supports the tracks near the front of the body, anyway yeah, took a loooong time. I finally ground off a tiny bit of metal so that the pin stuck through enough to where I could squeeze the spring clip on. I even turned the pin around so that the spring clip was on the outside of the chassis, its hidden from view anyway. This also gave me more room to push it into the slot around the pin.
Also for anyone who has built the LR634, has anyone used the extra track pads to put 38 instead of 37 track pads on each side? Quite a struggle to walk the tracks on.
Glad I took the advice on here to assemble before painting.
Kingcam2
04-24-2014, 03:31 AM
Looking good so far Avel.
Keep up the good,
I know how bad you feel, you just want to finish so you can play with it.
Regards Cameron.
OK, anyone NOT use pliers to slide the locking sleeve over the hydraulic hose?
I used some made for putting loops in wire, sold in the jewelry/bead aisle. I tried with my fingers, and some cloth but all that happened is I pulled the skin back under my thumb and started bleeding. I even had boiling hot water to help soften the hose enough to slide over the nipple.
todays update
Installed the thicker hoses between the pump, filter, and control valves. Centered the servos and installed them too. I want to finish this tomorrow so I can play!
Any tips for cleaning up hydraulic fluid?
Lil Giants
04-25-2014, 02:29 AM
Indeed, those compression collars are hard on the fingers to get on... I try to use these small needle pliers where I can. The trick to do it the easiest way possible, start the hose over the 1st barb, then slide the collar on, it will push the hose completely onto the barb & the collar all the way to the fitting.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v150/protrker/Jan%2014/005_zpsafcdfa30.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v150/protrker/Jan%2014/007_zpsa5f3b6e0.jpg
Doing it this way, you gotta be careful not to squeeze the pliers too hard while pushing so not to distort the circumference of the collar.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v150/protrker/Jan%2014/006_zpse4bc68f4.jpg
Also the first two fittings I completed, I pushed the hose completely on then had to trim some off so that the collar could slide on. The others I did it properly. I was also afraid of distorting the collar doing it my way.
I will try your way tomorrow. There is plenty of the smaller hose in case I slip up.
Also tomorrow, pictures.
Ok, this is the E-Clip/pin that was causing me issues. It still isn't fully seated in the slit that is around the pin.
Looks ugly, but the low temp hot glue is mainly to protect against abrasion.
Here you can kinda see the Garage Sale sign plastic I used to hold the servos. Like a spacer, kinda.
The return tubing kinked because of the hot glue, so far it hasn't caused any issues while testing. The number "3" is to help me remember that channel 3 is that servo/function.
The pliers I used covered with hot glue to lessen the damage to the collars, it helped.
This collar I slightly damaged. It was really hard for me to get the tubing on too because the metal elbow would swivel away. Finally I used an allen key between the two metal elbows to stop it moving. Also helped alleviate my fear of the elbow snapping off from the pressure required to apply the collar.
footprint
04-25-2014, 10:05 PM
G'day mate,
Thanks for posting your build, my next builds are going to contain alot of hyd functions so im reading all these threads closely to see what I can learn(which thanks to kind people like yourself is quite abit).
As for your method of compressing the collar, could you make an attachment similar to these pliers (or modify them for this purpose )
http://www.banggood.com/Ball-Link-Plier-RC-Helicopter-Airplane-Car-Repair-Tool-Kit-Tool-p-85998.html?currency=AUD&utm_source=google&utm_medium=shopping&utm_content=miko_ruby&utm_campaign=rc-quad-au&gclid=CJ7c8uX3_L0CFY2CvQod0UAABg
That way your pressing from behind the fitting and thus not flaring the fitting.
Working in HCAV recently we had a suby do around 30 shody flare connections some were at 30degree some were correct at 45 but had the most tiny of scratches on the flare needless to say (and due to poor management) the system leaked, $15k + labour to fix, but honestly those scratches were so small it was unbelievable the connections failed, fyi those systems run around 300psi so its made me reevaluate our connections much more thoroughly - im still looking for an answer; and reinventing a square wheel im sure.
Also the kinked pipe you may want to swap out, while im unsure in hydraulics cavitation has caused huge issues for us in other systems and considering the pressures we're dealing with here i could envisage a frothy result.
Luckily the kink is on the low pressure return side, but if I have problems I will replace it.
Also I was looking at different pliers today, and the pliers/type you linked to, are exactly what I was thinking of.
I found a pinion gear removal tool that I have, and I can use it to push the collars on. It rides up on the collar to about the second ridge, but applies the pressure to half of the circumference of the collar. Shaped like the Ball link pliers, a "U" shape.
I learned a lot while assembling this kit, and hope I don't have any leaks.
Wanted to add that it wasn't the hot glue that kinked it. To soften the tubing I had it in hot water and when I took it out I struggled to slip it over the nipple and held it against the corner of the valve block.
I actually do have another slight kink on the high pressure side going to the valve block because I stuck more of the tubing into the hot water than was needed. If I immerse that section in some hot water I am sure I can get the kink out. That one can cause cavitation like footprint said.
Lil Giants
04-26-2014, 12:51 AM
Actually both P & T lines are high pressure b/c the returning oil to the tank has to go through the pressure relief valve before entering the reservoir. If there any question that the structural integrity of either hose has been compromised, change them now b/c it aint no fun cleaning oil from everything after a hose has exploded... BTDT :(
LOL
Yeah that oil goes everywhere.
Wanted to add that I bought this stuff in a purple spray bottle called Super Clean to clean up the oil spills. Works well. I've also read that undiluted Simple Green works too.
http://youtu.be/X_EBvmhzqGc
Video of first run.
Also had a much easier time installing the collars. First I wore gloves, and used plenty of oil as lube. Everything went on very easily. Most of the collars I just used both my thumbs to push it on.
Also blew a line by pushing down on the shovel while the model was off. I learned to leave the valves open after that. Anyway it took less than 3 minutes to replace. I cut all the hoses 10cm longer than what the instructions called for. Ran it for awhile then changed the oil, cleaned the filter. I can't believe it's been 9 hours already.
Oh and to get the Dimension Engineering ESC to work without its BEC I pulled the positive wire out and turned off mixing. It wouldn't work with the onboard mixing enabled. This way I could use the BEC on the Brushless ESC for the pump motor. I originally bought the Dimension Engineering Sabertooth 2x5 RC because all this Radio mixing business seemed intimidating and I didn't know I could get a radio that could do it for so cheap. The Sabertooth is a compact way to control both of the brushed motors though.
headers
04-27-2014, 12:18 AM
Nice,looking good and smooth.
went past the 20min limit, just wanted to add this.
I really should of gotten a 3 cell battery, the 2 cell doesn't let the pump motor spin up all the way. At least I think it doesn't
A 12 volt 3 cell battery is definitely needed. I had it hooked up to a 12v source and it was way stronger. The 2 cell is ok, but once it gets below about 8 volts, there is less digging power.
Spent about 2 hours outside digging in the dirt. I have this hole about a foot deep I dug about a year ago. Just enough to get below the majority of the roots in the field. It was FUN!! Finally went inside after strong wind and rain started up. Its going to take a lot of practice to get good at the controls. Still also messing around with the radio software and mixing things together.
Hooked up two 2S batteries in series today and the hydraulics were much more powerful. Had to adjust the radio settings so I still had fine control and so that the drive motors weren't as touchy.
Yesterday I got 50 minutes of heavy usage out of a 1350Mah 11.1 3S Lipo running the brushless pump motor! I had a 2S battery hooked up to the drive motors and to a separate BEC. I do have it mixed so the pump only kicks on when needed.
Then I got another battery and blew a hose. I turned up the pressure without using a gauge, so I am sure to blow some more until I get one.
I started making a video, and then it blew.
Then I took it apart, fixed it, took it out and a hose just popped off! Cleaned up and popped it back on, also routed the hydraulic lines a lot neater this time.
The loader
http://i977.photobucket.com/albums/ae256/avelk/IMG_5036.jpg (http://s977.photobucket.com/user/avelk/media/IMG_5036.jpg.html)
http://i977.photobucket.com/albums/ae256/avelk/IMG_5035.jpg (http://s977.photobucket.com/user/avelk/media/IMG_5035.jpg.html)
The work site. The hole was started by hand, the only thing carried/peeled out by the loader is the pile to the left.
http://i977.photobucket.com/albums/ae256/avelk/IMG_5034.jpg (http://s977.photobucket.com/user/avelk/media/IMG_5034.jpg.html)
The burst hose, probably pinched it when forcing it over the nipple.
http://i977.photobucket.com/albums/ae256/avelk/IMG_5039.jpg (http://s977.photobucket.com/user/avelk/media/IMG_5039.jpg.html)
Funny how the grease collected into a pillar. I am using Lucas Red'N'Tacky.
http://i977.photobucket.com/albums/ae256/avelk/IMG_5040.jpg (http://s977.photobucket.com/user/avelk/media/IMG_5040.jpg.html)
Two Great Planes? fuel filters, using them as air filters basically.
http://i977.photobucket.com/albums/ae256/avelk/IMG_5042.jpg (http://s977.photobucket.com/user/avelk/media/IMG_5042.jpg.html)
Just blew off, cleaned up the oil and slipped the hose back on.
http://i977.photobucket.com/albums/ae256/avelk/IMG_5043.jpg (http://s977.photobucket.com/user/avelk/media/IMG_5043.jpg.html)
Video, hose blew about 6 minutes in, almost at end of video.
http://youtu.be/YFM1wXHt-SY
Well that hose popped off again, this time I am cutting it down, should of done it in the first place.
Claus
05-01-2014, 05:52 PM
Nice seeing the mountains in the background, where are you located?
Ran the loader for 2 hours using a 3S 3200Mah Lipo for the pump and a 2S for the servos and drive motors. No hoses blew off or split.
Well went to take it for a spin in the dirt and the drive motors would barely turn. Or turned in tiny spurts. Kept pushing and pushing, finally the Sabertooth ESC just got really hot. None of the LED's lit up, it just got hot. So I measured the amps the motors pull by holding one of the tracks in my hand and connecting a 2S 7.4v lipo, I applied for a second and highest I saw was 17amps and it wasn't stalled, I let go because I didn't want to break anything. I thought the 2x5 Sabertooth would of been up to the job because supposedly the motors only pull a max of ~3amps. Well maybe when they aren't geared down.
Anyway just ordered the 2x12 Sabertooth.
Also explains the stopping and starting yesterday when driving over 100 feet through the field after the pump battery died.
I have two Hobbyking 40amp brushed esc's but the low 16khz switching speed and the resultant sound drives me insane! I was using one on a car today and from over 60 feet away you could hear it when going slow.
Took the shovel and arms off to paint and noticed this.
http://i977.photobucket.com/albums/ae256/avelk/IMG_5070.jpg (http://s977.photobucket.com/user/avelk/media/IMG_5070.jpg.html)
http://i977.photobucket.com/albums/ae256/avelk/IMG_5071.jpg (http://s977.photobucket.com/user/avelk/media/IMG_5071.jpg.html)
I cleaned it and put some JB Kwik in there and clamped it overnight.
Claus
05-04-2014, 12:53 PM
I have no experience with a hydro RC model but if weld didn't hold on your bucket heels I highly doubt JB Weld will. Good luck.
Seems these kits are not so easy for the novice like me.
ngward79
05-04-2014, 01:20 PM
Definitely a odd spot for welds to brake and then bend how it did. I would've tried brazing it back together with Harris safety silv 45 brazing rod.
apfubar
05-04-2014, 06:26 PM
Any idea how it occurred? I would check for any fouling over the buckets movement... Just in case it's hitting the arm at a gusset etc.
Cheers,
Ap
The stock kit weld did hold, it bent until that point. It's not hitting anything, just too many snagged roots. The JBweld is more for closing up the gap so that it doesn't snag again as easily. I formed the cold weld into a fillet like shape.
ngward79, I will try that. I've never brazed anything before.
Also took the tracks off and I am missing over 8 E-clips! Going to order some more. I need to lower the top speed too, the nylon tracks are wearing quite a bit on the inside. I think it happened when going over some smallish gravel and turning sharply.
While waiting for the Sabertooth 2x12 I did some painting.
Too lazy to disconnect the hydraulics.
http://i977.photobucket.com/albums/ae256/avelk/IMG_5096.jpg (http://s977.photobucket.com/user/avelk/media/IMG_5096.jpg.html)
Cut down the steel insert/divider thingy. Notch is for hydraulic tank breather hoses to come up through. Painted with this rubber stuff by Rust-Oleum, the red is just some permanent marker that was on there.
http://i977.photobucket.com/albums/ae256/avelk/IMG_5097.jpg (http://s977.photobucket.com/user/avelk/media/IMG_5097.jpg.html)
Painted the tracks with a Metallic Dark Steel color by Rust-Oleum, looked cheap. Later sprayed with same gray as body, mostly on the track pads. Replaced the lost E clips.
http://i977.photobucket.com/albums/ae256/avelk/IMG_5124.jpg (http://s977.photobucket.com/user/avelk/media/IMG_5124.jpg.html)
Started to drill out the back end ventilation slats, then stopped and glued some styrene from a "For Sale" sign to reinforce the area.
http://i977.photobucket.com/albums/ae256/avelk/IMG_5126.jpg (http://s977.photobucket.com/user/avelk/media/IMG_5126.jpg.html)
http://i977.photobucket.com/albums/ae256/avelk/IMG_5125.jpg (http://s977.photobucket.com/user/avelk/media/IMG_5125.jpg.html)
The tools I used. I run the Dremel at the lowest speed and stop the chuck from rotating with my finger so that I don't put holes where I don't want them. Then I thread the saw blade through and cut the slot out. Then finish up with the knife, file, and sanding stick.
http://i977.photobucket.com/albums/ae256/avelk/IMG_5127.jpg (http://s977.photobucket.com/user/avelk/media/IMG_5127.jpg.html)
The yellow paint is put on really thick so I might strip it a little before spraying this area gray when I am done with all the work.
http://i977.photobucket.com/albums/ae256/avelk/IMG_5128.jpg (http://s977.photobucket.com/user/avelk/media/IMG_5128.jpg.html)
All paint was Rust-Oleum 2X spray cans, Sun Yellow, and some kind of gray.
Gloss Dark Gray was the color.
Some more painted parts here.
http://i977.photobucket.com/albums/ae256/avelk/IMG_5101.jpg (http://s977.photobucket.com/user/avelk/media/IMG_5101.jpg.html)
Cut down weight with a hacksaw.
http://i977.photobucket.com/albums/ae256/avelk/IMG_5162.jpg (http://s977.photobucket.com/user/avelk/media/IMG_5162.jpg.html)
I used brake fluid and applied it with a paper towel to areas I wanted to strip and came back around 20 minutes later and scraped the paint off with a credit card and toothbrush.
http://i977.photobucket.com/albums/ae256/avelk/IMG_5151.jpg (http://s977.photobucket.com/user/avelk/media/IMG_5151.jpg.html)
Fan hot glued in place. Carved out about 1/8" from each side panel so that it fit without any stress on the body.
http://i977.photobucket.com/albums/ae256/avelk/IMG_5257.jpg (http://s977.photobucket.com/user/avelk/media/IMG_5257.jpg.html)
http://i977.photobucket.com/albums/ae256/avelk/IMG_5259.jpg (http://s977.photobucket.com/user/avelk/media/IMG_5259.jpg.html)
http://i977.photobucket.com/albums/ae256/avelk/IMG_5198.jpg (http://s977.photobucket.com/user/avelk/media/IMG_5198.jpg.html)
Two 3S 8amp batteries in parallel. Weight is for the temporary brace that I glued down. Had to cut the sheet metal divider plate to move the batteries forward a bit to clear the fan in the back.
http://i977.photobucket.com/albums/ae256/avelk/IMG_5244.jpg (http://s977.photobucket.com/user/avelk/media/IMG_5244.jpg.html)
http://i977.photobucket.com/albums/ae256/avelk/IMG_5246.jpg (http://s977.photobucket.com/user/avelk/media/IMG_5246.jpg.html)
Testing. I had the fan running at 6v from a BEC that I could switch from the radio. I am going to try it out hooked directly up to the battery with the BEC activating it via a relay. I want to eventually have it run automatically when needed.
http://i977.photobucket.com/albums/ae256/avelk/IMG_5253.jpg (http://s977.photobucket.com/user/avelk/media/IMG_5253.jpg.html)
http://i977.photobucket.com/albums/ae256/avelk/IMG_5252.jpg (http://s977.photobucket.com/user/avelk/media/IMG_5252.jpg.html)
http://i977.photobucket.com/albums/ae256/avelk/IMG_5254.jpg (http://s977.photobucket.com/user/avelk/media/IMG_5254.jpg.html)
I also added one more track pad to each side. Downside was that it skipped when turning in place quickly. I used some styrene from the kit and glued it on the back of the tensioner thingy. Two are visible, and added another one inside on the other end of the spring, inside where it is not visible.
http://i977.photobucket.com/albums/ae256/avelk/IMG_5255.jpg (http://s977.photobucket.com/user/avelk/media/IMG_5255.jpg.html)
Now I am figuring out the cab and how I will attach it, I want it to be removable. Thinking of using more magnets for that. Also need to trim some wires and route them neater.
Waiting on my manometer so that I can see what I set my pressure too. Also thinking of ways to modify the teeth, maybe cover them with aluminum as they are wearing already.
I need to put in a rubber stopper inside the spring, had the chain skip while backing up an incline with a fully loaded bucket. I ran the loader outside for about 3.5 hours. I thought I had the cooling fan running of off 6 volts, but it was 5v. This time I ran it off of 6v. I have the weight around 19-20 pounds. I need to move the weight forward, or just reduce how much is in the back. I used some magnets to attach the cab to the body.
http://i977.photobucket.com/albums/ae256/avelk/IMG_5280.jpg (http://s977.photobucket.com/user/avelk/media/IMG_5280.jpg.html)
http://i977.photobucket.com/albums/ae256/avelk/IMG_5279.jpg (http://s977.photobucket.com/user/avelk/media/IMG_5279.jpg.html)
http://i977.photobucket.com/albums/ae256/avelk/IMG_5278.jpg (http://s977.photobucket.com/user/avelk/media/IMG_5278.jpg.html)
http://i977.photobucket.com/albums/ae256/avelk/IMG_5277.jpg (http://s977.photobucket.com/user/avelk/media/IMG_5277.jpg.html)
http://i977.photobucket.com/albums/ae256/avelk/IMG_5276.jpg (http://s977.photobucket.com/user/avelk/media/IMG_5276.jpg.html)
I am going to shorten the battery leads too, they are far too long. I cut the sheet metal divider some more so that I could route the servo wires differently.
The battery was at 11.3v when I decided to come inside because of the wind.
http://i977.photobucket.com/albums/ae256/avelk/IMG_5294.jpg (http://s977.photobucket.com/user/avelk/media/IMG_5294.jpg.html)
http://i977.photobucket.com/albums/ae256/avelk/IMG_5289.jpg (http://s977.photobucket.com/user/avelk/media/IMG_5289.jpg.html)
http://i977.photobucket.com/albums/ae256/avelk/IMG_5288.jpg (http://s977.photobucket.com/user/avelk/media/IMG_5288.jpg.html)
http://i977.photobucket.com/albums/ae256/avelk/IMG_5284.jpg (http://s977.photobucket.com/user/avelk/media/IMG_5284.jpg.html)
http://i977.photobucket.com/albums/ae256/avelk/IMG_5283.jpg (http://s977.photobucket.com/user/avelk/media/IMG_5283.jpg.html)
Finally have everything running the way I want, and everything fitting in that removing the cab to plug in the power isn't a hassle. I rearranged some of the electrical components. The receiver and brushless ESC I wrapped in Kapton tape and then copper tape. Took the box off of the receiver and stock heat shrink off of the ESC. Added more magnets so that the body sticks to the chassis better and added some between the cab and body.
I fixed the track chain skipping by removing the plastic I added and inserting a short tungsten slug in the middle of the spring. I measured so that each side had about an 1/8" of give. Also used some cuttable tungsten, and tungsten putty to wrap around the slug and cut piece to keep them centered in the spring. All the tungsten is from my train hobby. The tungsten weights are sold for Pine Derby cars. Anyway, it was a bear to put the chain on but a credit card around the sprung idler helped it slide on. Also put one of the chains on backwards after struggling with it. Everything runs well now, played for about 20 minutes.
Just small details left.
Oh and limited the pump to 80%, much easier to control. Not sure what its called, I just have this Limits setting on the radio.
Espeefan
05-25-2014, 02:41 PM
I like how you cut the rear grille out. Out of curiosity, why did you need to add one extra track pad/grouser to the tracks?
well the prototype has 38 per side, and also I had problems in the beginning where a full bucketfull of dirt would tip the loader while backing up a steep incline. Although the weight I added eliminated that problem and now it is too heavy in the rear. Also I had plenty of extra track pads and thought a little longer track would be better. I wouldn't do it again probably, but I had already installed the track pad, and also it was fun figuring out how to eliminate the chain skipping.
I got the idea for cutting out the grill from someone else on a german forum, I think.
Claus
05-25-2014, 05:01 PM
The cut out grille is great! I was doubtful when I first seen you doing it as I thought the whole thing would become to weak and flimsy. Good job.
Yeah I was sure I was going to crack it or bend it while sawing or filing! But it is plenty strong. I would like to later on(unless I get another project going) replace it with a grill made out of brass. Although with how well this turned out, I might never do it. It's not perfect up close, but from 3' away it looks just fine.
Also a quarter of the way into sawing out the slits the handle on my saw broke off and my accuracy went to ****. I did a lot more filing and sanding than I anticipated.
I should take some macro shots to show all the errors. Thick paint, glue on the windows, CA on the cab, etc etc ;)
Am I satisfied with the model?, **** yeah!!!
Video of the model going back and forth and back and forth, moving dirt.
http://youtu.be/gQE-OVST_vA
I was operating for 150 minutes and getting better and better when it stopped. I thought the lipo cutoff had hit. Took it inside and the batteries were at 11.2v. Kept unplugging and taking things apart, thought the brushless motor was bad because it wouldn't work, also one of the valve servo's didn't work. Took the pump assembly apart, then thought of trying to run the pump off a different channel, and it worked. Seems like the radio messes up sometimes.
Anyhoo, put everything back together and flushed twice with the cenex hydraulic fluid because I am out of the oil that was supplied with the kit. WOw! it was waaaayyy more powerful with the cenex fluid. So put it back together and did some more changes. Also while running I stuck a weight towards the front in the cab and it handled a lot better. So just a little more weight forward and I will be happy.
headers
05-27-2014, 07:41 AM
Nice video keep them coming
http://youtu.be/vzhl3heaNOU
More extreme back and forth action.
I have added some weight forward under the cab. That along with the different oil should improve the performance. I will post a video when I have some time to run the loader. I might pop a hose, the hydraulics seem a lot stronger.
http://youtu.be/gVuQkrLHjTA
Part 2
http://youtu.be/O0-yuhryej4
Also I made these videos after cleaning up fluid from a hose that popped off the T connector for the lift pistons. Also the other two connections on the T were loose, so pulled them off, cut them down and reinstalled them. All this after being outside for all of 5 minutes. Hopefully I get some time to play tomorrow. Also in this video you can see how strong the plastic grill is.
I have taken apart the pistons and ordered some quad rings of various sizes to see if I can better control the slight leakage from where the piston rod comes out. The stock O rings seemed kind of loose.
Received my package yesterday from http://www.der-getriebedoktor.de/shop2/topangebote.php
Now I have a manometer, new bell crank and more hose and hose sleeves.
I was running it a couple days ago when one of the valve servos quit working, so I took it apart and it was fine. But then the other servo valve wasn't centered and I went to adjust it and got nothing. Motor was pumping but nothing was moving. So I started taking everything apart. I probably just had air in there from holding the pump assembly vertically, but now I had an excuse to finally take apart the pistons and see if I couldn't get different Orings for a better seal where the piston rod was coming out of the cylinder body.
Here's a video from the last time I played before I took it apart because of the servo.
I have the cooling fan running directly off of the battery now. I did something bad to the receiver and reception is good till around five feet. You can sometimes see the black on the pistons. That's oil and dirt, it isn't a major leak or anything, but I still want to try different O rings and see if I can't eliminate most of it.
http://youtu.be/u4D5c_Uv0-E?t=21m
ngward79
06-03-2014, 10:08 PM
Nice job on the video, It's your best one yet ! I personally like the up close shots in most videos. Also, which I could be wrong but I'd get the smaller 2x12 speed control cause the 2x24 you got is just over kill for the motors in your rig and then you could put it under the hood and put the cab interior back in too. Don't take it the wrong way, it's your rig and you can do what you want with it and I'm sure smoked glass would look good in it as it is but I figured since you put all that time in to the body work you should have a full scale interior to go with it. Anyway good job so far and I'm looking forward to getting one for myself.
ngward79
06-04-2014, 05:39 PM
Sorry, just found out you do have the 2x12 , I didn't realize it came with the big heat sinks like the 2x25. Anyway I just wanted to clarify that I'm a stupid newbie ! Lol
Well the RC version doesn't have the big heatsinks, I got the one with the heatsinks because I wanted to make sure that nothing happened this time. I am reconfiguring things slowly and moving more weight down low where the hydraulics are so that I will have room to tuck the 2x12 between the two batteries. Maybe eventually take off the heatsinks, or at least one of them.
I hooked up the manometer and found out I had the pressure set to 20bar! So now I will either lower it or hope the new o rings seal better. I still don't have the orings because two styles were out of stock and they forgot to send me the email explaining the situation.
I am undecided on whether I should get the rear ripper hydraulic unit for the LR 634, or a King hauler with the flatbed trailer.
ngward79
06-11-2014, 08:47 PM
I'd personally get the truck and trailer first so you can haul it around , or better yet get a dump trailer so you can load it to move dirt around. I thought about doing a bump truck and having a trailer for it to haul the 634 around when ever I get around to buying the loader anyway.
Yeah that would be fun. I picked up a Tonka dump truck at a garage sale two weeks ago and recently purchased a Craftsman EVOLV 3.6v drill/screwdriver and I have an old Radio Shack 1/10 scale rear wheel drive car/frame I could adapt to the Tonka truck. I might make something of it, I might not.
With the King hauler and flatbed trailer I could try turning the flatbed trailer into a bottom dump like Joe (Lil Giants) has. Only the dump doors would be controlled by a servo. For hauling around the LR 634 I would like to get the Bruder trailer.
I actually spent some time on RC4WD today adding things to my shopping cart, just undecided. Then I went on Ebay and saw SemiJoes triaxle pete and that awesome lowboy he has in the picture with it.
First thing I need is those darn Orings to see if running at 20bar is feasible. I haven't had the hydraulic cylinders back together yet so I am not sure if the Leimbach pump can even maintain 20bar with both valves/functions open. Only reason I tore it down this time is because a valve servo wasn't functioning. After I took it out it worked just fine.
I purchased different servo's this time and noticed that I tightened one too much and it was almost binding when operating the valve. Maybe that's why my last servo quit for awhile.
After I get it together this time I will put the temperature probe against the pump assembly and see what kind of temps I see. With the fan running straight from the battery I think it keeps the motors/pump running cool enough that running things at 20bar won't destroy things too fast.
I also want to program my radio so that I can quickly turn off the pump and open the valves to relieve pressure when I am done playing.
here's some pictures of what I did a week ago to the pistons. They had some metal left over from being tapped and it was really thin and I sanded it off to make sure it didn't break off later.
http://i977.photobucket.com/albums/ae256/avelk/IMG_5359.jpg (http://s977.photobucket.com/user/avelk/media/IMG_5359.jpg.html)
http://i977.photobucket.com/albums/ae256/avelk/IMG_5358.jpg (http://s977.photobucket.com/user/avelk/media/IMG_5358.jpg.html)
http://i977.photobucket.com/albums/ae256/avelk/IMG_5360.jpg (http://s977.photobucket.com/user/avelk/media/IMG_5360.jpg.html)
Wanted to add that I used 600 grit sandpaper from a Testors wet/dry sandpaper package, the red sheet.
I made a test piece out of laminated styrene to replace the stock link that curls the bucket. I know it looks horrible, hopefully my final one is out of aluminium and will look a lot better.;) I lengthened it twice because my measurements were way off, eyeballing it didn't work;)
http://i977.photobucket.com/albums/ae256/avelk/IMG_5390.jpg (http://s977.photobucket.com/user/avelk/media/IMG_5390.jpg.html)
Ok, the stock distance from hole to hole is 62.9mm. The new one is longer and the distance from hole to hole is 66.5mm.
This is the stock link.
http://i977.photobucket.com/albums/ae256/avelk/IMG_5380.jpg (http://s977.photobucket.com/user/avelk/media/IMG_5380.jpg.html)
Here is the modified link, camera wasn't moved. I didn't check the focus that's why its blurry and looks like the camera was moved.
http://i977.photobucket.com/albums/ae256/avelk/IMG_5381.jpg (http://s977.photobucket.com/user/avelk/media/IMG_5381.jpg.html)
Modified link again. Bucket curl maxed out, hitting the arms.
http://i977.photobucket.com/albums/ae256/avelk/IMG_5382.jpg (http://s977.photobucket.com/user/avelk/media/IMG_5382.jpg.html)
Stock link at a little less than maximum lift.
http://i977.photobucket.com/albums/ae256/avelk/IMG_5385.jpg (http://s977.photobucket.com/user/avelk/media/IMG_5385.jpg.html)
Modified link.
http://i977.photobucket.com/albums/ae256/avelk/IMG_5384.jpg (http://s977.photobucket.com/user/avelk/media/IMG_5384.jpg.html)
I forgot to take this picture with the modified link installed, but to get this range of motion I took out the glued on spacer around the curl piston rod that limits how much the piston can extend.
http://i977.photobucket.com/albums/ae256/avelk/IMG_5386.jpg (http://s977.photobucket.com/user/avelk/media/IMG_5386.jpg.html)
Here's a picture of the spacer. It is 15.1mm long.
http://i977.photobucket.com/albums/ae256/avelk/IMG_5391.jpg (http://s977.photobucket.com/user/avelk/media/IMG_5391.jpg.html)
Tracking says I should get the Orings on Monday, so hopefully I will have a video by then to show the new range of motion and/or any catastrophic failure :lol:
Cooper
06-15-2014, 12:17 AM
What is the third piece in above picture? Is it a spacer/restricter for the travel of ram? Just curious.
Cooper. Yeah I placed the spacer next to where it was originally on the piston rod, it limited the extension. The piece to the left of the spacer is the threaded hydraulic cylinder end.
Does that make sense?
Espeefan
06-15-2014, 02:18 AM
Nice idea for increasing the bucket curl performance! I'm curious to know if by removing the cylinder's internal stop sleeve you might run into problems with the bucket bellcrank getting stuck in an over cam/over center position when dumping the bucket?
When dumping the piston retracts. The internal stop sleeve only limited things when the piston extended.
Now their might be issues with the lengthened link/bar/thing. I might still have to adjust the length because of the overcam thing.
Espeefan
06-15-2014, 01:20 PM
When dumping the piston retracts. The internal stop sleeve only limited things when the piston extended.
Now their might be issues with the lengthened link/bar/thing. I might still have to adjust the length because of the overcam thing.
Right you are about the cylinder retracting to dump the bucket. I didn't put two and two together. When you do get try the long bucket to bellcrank link, let us know if it does over cam itself.
I definitely will. I plan to have a video of it operating by 8pm Monday if the Orings arrive like they should. I brought in a bucket of dirt last week, so rain or shine I can test things out.
Espeefan, you were partially right. It did cause problems leaving the internal stop sleeve out. Now I can curl the bucket back more but this causes problems if I don't uncurl it a little when lowering the bucket. The lift pistons fight the curl piston when lowering the bucket with it curled back. I blew a tube and ballooned another one in two spots.
With all the hydraulic lines connected the pressure jumped to 22bar at times. I am going to lower it a little and try to operate it the way it is. Normally when operating and lifting a bucket of dirt I always dump it and then lower the bucket so I don't think this would be an issue in normal operation. I am uploading a video right now, doesn't explain things that well, but at least you can see what is happening.
http://youtu.be/HFAJzpG8cpE
The Orings kinda worked, in that I had to cut down the OD to fit into the grooves. On the lift pistons one of the sealing edges was torn out too. So the Quad or X rings that I got didn't really work without modification. I might try some other sizes if I want to purchase a 100 of each size from Mcmaster. This order was from theoringstore.com which lets you buy them individually.
I used my Xuron flush cutters to trim down the outside of the Orings, and so far everything is sealing.
For screwing the hydraulic cylinders closed I used two pieces of bicycle inner tube. Just wrap it tight so its stretched and twist. Then I used some tube to cushion the jaws of pliers to tighten it down a little.
Lil Giants
06-17-2014, 12:02 AM
Monkeying with the geometry of the Scale Art loader bucket caused over-cam problems too, and I can tip the bucket too far back in a lower position as well... but I always keep the bucket level after it's emptied. I set the pressure to 17bar.
On the bucket, the distance between the connection points of the drag link & loader arms with the S/A was about 36mm (my memory is ?) and the Stahl WA500's bucket was less, I think it was 31mm. That wee bit of difference made a huge diffrenece in the dump radius, especially at lower height of the arms.
To correct the over-cam issue, I drilled & installed a bolt just below the drag link, so at full height of the arms & full dump of the bucket, the bolt stopped the drag link from over centering.
I saw Rcguy's Carson bucket at the St Louis meet in 2012 and measured the distance between the two points, I can't remember what the number was, but it was greater than the OEM Scale Art.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v150/protrker/Jan%2013/009_zps7a04c22f.jpg
Joe, I went through your whole thread on the 4x4 forum last week and saw that when you changed the bucket on the S/A loader. It kinda also pushed me to try modifying mine too.
My brain!! I just spent some time with the radio and watching Youtube videos on how to program it, I have a lot too learn.
I setup a switch that when flipped opens both of the valve servos without activating the pump to release the pressure in the lines.
As for my pressure relief valve, I turned the pressure down but then turned it up, and turned down the speed that the pump turned at. Now the pressure averages around 15bar but if I keep raising or curling it slowly climbs and peaks around 20bar I think. I like it this way better, it's smoother and it takes awhile to increase pressure over 15bar. I still have SO much to learn about programming the radio.
4X44DAD
06-17-2014, 11:01 AM
Nice machine
Supermario
06-25-2014, 09:22 PM
Just saw your video on the bucket binding issue Avel. The link is definitely too long. The reason it only happens at a certain range or boom height is when in a lower position the bucket hits the boom before the Z arm ( the link between the cylinders and the "dog bone" ) can travel beyond center.
The best way I can describe is ..... As you curl the bucket back the link is pulled straight back. Yours I see very well at the 4:20 minute mark, the link stops pulling straight back and starts to rise. Now when you boom down the bucket can't pivot and dump and binds.
Clear as mud? :lol:
To figure out proper link length I think you should calculate your length with boom in that trouble spot and be sure that it is still level or linear and not rising at end of stroke.
If you want to maintain new dump range, the only way to fix is a longer Z arm on the lower pivot point.
Congrats on a beautiful machine. Just the sound of the hydraulic system says Quality. Very nice., wish I had one.
Mario
doodlebug
06-25-2014, 09:41 PM
I've never seen a perfect Z-bar linkage, my neighbors hough has a relief valve on the bucket cylinder, for binding issues!
Cheers, Neil.
Espeefan
06-26-2014, 02:04 AM
Avel, I would try and remake the link for the bucket too. Like Mario suggested, position your loader arms and bucket in the position where the binding begins and see if you can figure out a new dimension for a shorter bucket link that would alleviate the problem. It might take a little trial and error. You could use a piece of threaded rod with some rod ends to make an adjustable link. That will make it easy to adjust the length for testing so you can hopefully find a happy medium.
1/50diecast
06-26-2014, 09:40 PM
Way cool!!!
Steve1503
11-18-2014, 09:07 PM
Any progress on your loader?
JAMMER
11-19-2014, 10:00 AM
What you need to do is make a smaller spacer try one half the size first and go from there. Ed
No new updates, it just sits there on my desk. I started a new job as an Over The Road truck driver, and have only been home 3 times since. Still getting used to the new job, and haven't taken the loader with me. I only have my Legos with me in the sleeper for when I do a 34 hour reset ;)
Kausekaos
10-14-2015, 04:14 PM
Wait you have to weld the chassis?
No you don't weld the chassis.
Long time no update. Well I finilly got home. I ordered some of the nickel silver teeth from Premacon for the LR634, and their 3mm hydraulic tubing. It seems to be stiffer than what came with the leimbach hydraulic kit, hoping no more burst hose at 20bar. Also bought some Road Trucker tires for the drives on my King Hauler.
Last time I was home I connected the battery the wrong way to my Turning 9x transmitter, and fried something. So I ordered their new one with telemetry and 10 channels , the HD i10.
I will try to desprue the teeth and install them and replace the tubing and program the transmitter for the lr634 before I leave again.
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B16FrFDl6hwoODN5V1BDQm94R0U&usp=sharing
Also last time I was home I installed Roady Wide tires on the steers. Packed them with BB's and then superglued the tires to the rims. I only glued them on after having a tire roll off when going over an obstacle with 20 pounds on the fifth wheel. I want to eventually turn the Knight Hauler into a dump truck, or buy one of RCP's? dump trailers.
Link has pictures of the items from my previous post, will post images properly when I have some time.
Oh, forgot. Also bought a Scale Driveshaft too. I took the struts off of the truck for a bit more articulation and the stock driveshaft would bind up and almost fall out sometimes.
Lil Giants
02-17-2016, 08:57 PM
That hyd tubing is probably the same stuff Fumotec & Vario use, definitely high pressure line, but it don't like to bend tight radii... if you do need to make a tight bend though, careful use of a hot air gun works well.
Also, the use of this type of hyd line, did you get all new fittings as well? I don't think this type of hyd line will work with Leimbach's barbed fitting & press-on collar.
Good point, I'll see if I can make it work.
You were right, Lil Giants. The Premacon 3mm Hyd tubing is just stiff enough that I had to order new 3mm fittings from Premacon. Will post updates when I receive them.
Cleaning and lubing after having the loader sit over a year.
And my metal teeth.
I was only able to slip the 3mm tube over the stock T connector, all the other fittings were slightly bigger.
http://i977.photobucket.com/albums/ae256/avelk/LR634/31.jpg (http://s977.photobucket.com/user/avelk/media/LR634/31.jpg.html)
http://i977.photobucket.com/albums/ae256/avelk/LR634/3.jpg (http://s977.photobucket.com/user/avelk/media/LR634/3.jpg.html)
http://i977.photobucket.com/albums/ae256/avelk/LR634/t.jpg (http://s977.photobucket.com/user/avelk/media/LR634/t.jpg.html)
Yesterday I was motivated enough to work on the loader some more. I started by rearranging the battery and all the electronics to be as hidden as possible from view. I stacked the Sabertooth2x12 in the rear with the receiver on top of it. I am just going to go with the one 3S 8Ah battery. I laid it flat down and covered the whole battery with some foam packing material. Then I hotglued small pieces of velcro so that everything would stay together.
I also hotglued in a mesh material over the fan to prevent any wiring from being chewed up in the fan blades. The metal mesh came from a cooking oil spatter guard. The mesh was actually very soft. I taped a paper template on it and cut around it to the rough shape. Then I just pressed down with a used Xacto blade and it cut right through. Popped it in place, reheated the old hot glue with a soldering gun and applied more hot glue around the edges to make sure nothing sharp was exposed.
After the mesh was installed I went back and tried to reduce the wiring clutter. I soldered together a new, more compact, connector/s thingy. It's ugly but it'll do for now. I need a terminal block and some solid wire, that would look a lot cleaner.
Also spent some time messing around with the radio and trying to relearn how to use it.
http://i977.photobucket.com/albums/ae256/avelk/LR634/4afa4da0-564d-49cd-821d-8b64b28b8157.jpg (http://s977.photobucket.com/user/avelk/media/LR634/4afa4da0-564d-49cd-821d-8b64b28b8157.jpg.html)
http://i977.photobucket.com/albums/ae256/avelk/LR634/de9a377a-f0ac-4cc5-8c05-5fe8201e9ea6.jpg (http://s977.photobucket.com/user/avelk/media/LR634/de9a377a-f0ac-4cc5-8c05-5fe8201e9ea6.jpg.html)
http://i977.photobucket.com/albums/ae256/avelk/LR634/9139101c-ebb2-4752-ab5f-f57b76b938b6.jpg (http://s977.photobucket.com/user/avelk/media/LR634/9139101c-ebb2-4752-ab5f-f57b76b938b6.jpg.html)
http://i977.photobucket.com/albums/ae256/avelk/LR634/ce8f04d6-4918-4bd2-9bce-d423d481341d.jpg (http://s977.photobucket.com/user/avelk/media/LR634/ce8f04d6-4918-4bd2-9bce-d423d481341d.jpg.html)
thebigo
12-11-2016, 10:53 AM
Look's good Avel, I just received my 634 last week, It's nice to have all the pictures and post's for this machine from you guy's that have already taken the challenge...
Yours looks great,
David
These posts also help me recall how and why I made certain modifications. Just last night I disassembled the cylinders and nicked the piston rod. I should of been more descriptive in how I managed to disassemble the cylinder last time. But at least the rod was nicked close to the end where it wouldn't cause any problems when operating.
Also I did a lot of reading of what other owners of this loader had done.
There are a lot of German forums that I spent time on too, I used Google Chrome's translator to kind of understand what was happening in the pictures.
http://www.modelltruckforum.de/
http://www.modelltruck.net/
http://www.modell-baustelle.de/
Back in December, while waiting for my hydraulic fittings from Premacon, I wanted to work on the LR634 and decided to finally wire in some lights.
I had some 5050 size leds that I had bought for this purpose back in 2014. They are a perfect fit. I used enameled wire soldered to the leds. Then popped the lights into the enclosures and installed the lens and secured it with MEK.
I used a resistor calculator online to find the right resistor, I ended up using two resistors in parallel to get very close to the recommended resistance. Found them in an old power supply. I put copper tape around them because they were getting hot, my resistors are a bit undersized.
For the dual lights in front I shaved down the stepped dowel part that goes into the roof because I didn't like how far down they hung from the roof. I didn't shave them down in the back, wish I had. I made a "box" out of some corrugated copper sheet, glued it inside the cab and soldered everything together . I used some hot glue to attach the wire that runs inside the corner down to the body.
I have it hooked up to a switchable on/off 6v BEC.
I received my fittings from Premacon two weeks ago, just don't feel like working on the LR634, so maybe in May i'll get working on it. For now I've just been playing with a 1/10 Axial Yeti RC car.
http://i.imgur.com/iHVUEFCl.jpg (http://imgur.com/iHVUEFC)
http://i.imgur.com/i33EsWZl.jpg (http://imgur.com/i33EsWZ)
http://i.imgur.com/RDfPQVvl.jpg (http://imgur.com/RDfPQVv)
http://i.imgur.com/MJ49BScl.jpg (http://imgur.com/MJ49BSc)
http://i.imgur.com/x4NhOqGl.jpg (http://imgur.com/x4NhOqG)
http://i.imgur.com/rmzL0RKl.jpg (http://imgur.com/rmzL0RK)
http://i.imgur.com/id4tYkXl.jpg (http://imgur.com/id4tYkX)
http://i.imgur.com/EVlJGfel.jpg (http://imgur.com/EVlJGfe)
http://i.imgur.com/BXwOBOgl.jpg (http://imgur.com/BXwOBOg)
http://i.imgur.com/kJxmKMml.jpg (http://imgur.com/kJxmKMm)
http://i.imgur.com/Bcj6DV3l.jpg (http://imgur.com/Bcj6DV3)
http://i.imgur.com/d2DMr1cl.jpg (http://imgur.com/d2DMr1c)
liftmys10
03-12-2017, 02:41 PM
That looks great!! Thanks for sharing. I'm in the process of adding lights to my PC700. I'm not familiar with electronics so why did you need to put a resistor?
frizzen
03-12-2017, 07:16 PM
This loader just keeps getting better! Wow.
The resistor is a current limiter to keep the leds from destroying themselves.
http://www.rctruckandconstruction.com/showthread.php?t=441
liftmys10
03-13-2017, 02:49 AM
The resistor is a current limiter to keep the leds from destroying themselves.
http://www.rctruckandconstruction.com/showthread.php?t=441
Thank you for that link too.:D
In the second picture just in front of the ruler, aren't those resistors? Why not use those? I just purchased led's and it came with those style resistors but didn't know what they were for.
Yeah those are the resistors I used. I glued them to the cab roof inside that copper/ gray painted thing.
Here's the calculator I used to find out what resistors to use for my needs.
http://ledcalc.com/#calc
liftmys10
03-13-2017, 05:26 PM
Yeah those are the resistors I used. I glued them to the cab roof inside that copper/ gray painted thing.
Here's the calculator I used to find out what resistors to use for my needs.
http://ledcalc.com/#calc
Thank you! Now I see the resemblance.
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