ok i did it!

[cosworth34677]

i orderd a bruder excavator the other day and the hrc hydraulic kit for it. i got a few questions. mostly because this is my first hydraulic build. i wanted to start with something kind of cheap that why i bought this set up.

1. the pump will push 10 bar. what dose that mean in the real world? i was told that was more like sand box power. but i live in florida and everthing is sand! very few really hard spots in the ground or rocky stuff. so if i take it to the local park volley ball court and red clay pile in the back will this be ok?

2. i know this pump dosen't have a p.r.v so is this something i should look into adding? and is it hard to add if i do?

3. should i redo the boom stick and frame ? or will the plastic stock up be ok?
i can cut ne parts at work if so.

4. they say to use antifreeze in the system but is there something better?


again this will be my first hydraulic build so i didn't want a full out wedico of rc4wd or whatever (like i could afford them anyway) . i been looking at vids online at the hrc stuff seems to be ok and i've asked a few guys on this site and scale 4x4 abou the stuff and they for the most part say there ok. you got to understand im comeing from firgelli actuators to these the at i hopeing for the same amount of power , the firgelli's ar great . i tend to wear them out. and i want to be a little more hard on my stuff .

so any more input i would love advice and suggestions are great

[Lil Giants]

1Bar = 14psi approx

It should work fine in loose sand, but packed ground will probably break it up in short order.

Something other than antifreeze? What does the manufacture say?

If you program your mixes correctly, a prv shouldn't be necessary... be sure not to hold a valve open for long when the cyls are at their maxium strokes, could eventually cause a blow out somewhere in the system.

A pressure valve is relatively easy to make yourself..
threaded brass barrel
steel ball the correct diameter to seal the opening
compression spring to put press on the ball
grub screw to hold spring
google pressure relief valve to see pics & script

[rockNmayhem]

Originally Posted by cosworth34677

i orderd a bruder excavator the other day and the hrc hydraulic kit for it. i got a few questions. mostly because this is my first hydraulic build. i wanted to start with something kind of cheap that why i bought this set up.

1. the pump will push 10 bar. what dose that mean in the real world? i was told that was more like sand box power. but i live in florida and everthing is sand! very few really hard spots in the ground or rocky stuff. so if i take it to the local park volley ball court and red clay pile in the back will this be ok?

2. i know this pump dosen't have a p.r.v so is this something i should look into adding? and is it hard to add if i do?

3. should i redo the boom stick and frame ? or will the plastic stock up be ok?
i can cut ne parts at work if so.

4. they say to use antifreeze in the system but is there something better?


again this will be my first hydraulic build so i didn't want a full out wedico of rc4wd or whatever (like i could afford them anyway) . i been looking at vids online at the hrc stuff seems to be ok and i've asked a few guys on this site and scale 4x4 abou the stuff and they for the most part say there ok. you got to understand im comeing from firgelli actuators to these the at i hopeing for the same amount of power , the firgelli's ar great . i tend to wear them out. and i want to be a little more hard on my stuff .

so any more input i would love advice and suggestions are great

Just to answer a few of your questions in order the best I can from what experience I've had over the past year with my hydraulics from when he first started.
1. 10 bar pressure is actually a little underrated for full power that is more lower end operating pressure, I constantly have pressures around 150-170 and even peaking to 210 at times when testing the system.

2. A pressure relief valve is not necessary on these models if you have your pump set on a mixed channel that uses a master and slave setup. For instance the RDS8000 is great for this. I also have a Turnigy radio but it is not nearly as easy to setup.

3. I would run the plastic until you can figure out how to break it. The stock Bruder plastic on these models is really tough for, well "plastic". I have used the plastics as mock up and made some other pieces but the stock plastic is plenty strong for the pressures and forces you will be throwing at the model with the setup you are talking about.

4. Here is the fun part. Antifreeze is what Manolo recommends and uses in his models but a few things to keep in mind. DO NOT USE GREEN OR ORANGE/YELLOW ANTIFREEZE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I say this from lots of testing and down time of setting. These two antifreeze solutions are notorious in vehicles for building up and causing problems and they are even magnified in this small of an application. I have done a lot of different testing of different types of oils and weights along with other fluids such as virgin olive oil and simple water just to see the characteristics.

I have great pressures with a fully synthetic 10wt oil but volume and load on the pump is way too much for my likings to run it constantly.

I am going to have to suggest going with an RV antifreeze (pink in color usually) as it is a great weight non damaging fluid that still has some minimal lubricity to it for these machines. DO NOT and I repeat DO NOT mix it with water in the system. You want to run it straight out of the bottle into whatever tank you are using and have only that fluid in the system.

I hope this gives you a little insight into what you are getting with the system you are ordering and I have no doubts that you will enjoy it and have fun building your new project.

If you have any questions about anything feel free to ask away.

Tyler

[JAMMER]

10 Bras is 147 lbs of pressure. Ed

[cdm]

3. you should redo the bucket linkage. thats the first thing to go on the stock bruder. the boom itself is sturdy enough that the weight of the stock bruder will not allow you to damage it! you will drag and tip the model way before the plastic snaps.

it took me 25lbs of weight in wet ground (not mud) trying to do a 360 pivot to snap the stock tracks.. you aren't even going to get near 8lbs total so you are good with all stock components but the bucket H link

welcome to hydraulics. you wont stop there. then you will want more, so you will start doing metal.. and it keeps on going.

[dabears]

Do they sell the Bucket linkages anywhere? or should you just make them from brass or steel?

[cosworth34677]

Originally Posted by rockNmayhem

Just to answer a few of your questions in order the best I can from what experience I've had over the past year with my hydraulics from when he first started.
1. 10 bar pressure is actually a little underrated for full power that is more lower end operating pressure, I constantly have pressures around 150-170 and even peaking to 210 at times when testing the system.

2. A pressure relief valve is not necessary on these models if you have your pump set on a mixed channel that uses a master and slave setup. For instance the RDS8000 is great for this. I also have a Turnigy radio but it is not nearly as easy to setup.

3. I would run the plastic until you can figure out how to break it. The stock Bruder plastic on these models is really tough for, well "plastic". I have used the plastics as mock up and made some other pieces but the stock plastic is plenty strong for the pressures and forces you will be throwing at the model with the setup you are talking about.

4. Here is the fun part. Antifreeze is what Manolo recommends and uses in his models but a few things to keep in mind. DO NOT USE GREEN OR ORANGE/YELLOW ANTIFREEZE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I say this from lots of testing and down time of setting. These two antifreeze solutions are notorious in vehicles for building up and causing problems and they are even magnified in this small of an application. I have done a lot of different testing of different types of oils and weights along with other fluids such as virgin olive oil and simple water just to see the characteristics.

I have great pressures with a fully synthetic 10wt oil but volume and load on the pump is way too much for my likings to run it constantly.

I am going to have to suggest going with an RV antifreeze (pink in color usually) as it is a great weight non damaging fluid that still has some minimal lubricity to it for these machines. DO NOT and I repeat DO NOT mix it with water in the system. You want to run it straight out of the bottle into whatever tank you are using and have only that fluid in the system.

I hope this gives you a little insight into what you are getting with the system you are ordering and I have no doubts that you will enjoy it and have fun building your new project.

If you have any questions about anything feel free to ask away.

Tyler

thanks thats a lot good info there , yep now im just waiting on stuff to get here the part i hate.

Originally Posted by cdm

3. you should redo the bucket linkage. thats the first thing to go on the stock bruder. the boom itself is sturdy enough that the weight of the stock bruder will not allow you to damage it! you will drag and tip the model way before the plastic snaps.

it took me 25lbs of weight in wet ground (not mud) trying to do a 360 pivot to snap the stock tracks.. you aren't even going to get near 8lbs total so you are good with all stock components but the bucket H link

welcome to hydraulics. you wont stop there. then you will want more, so you will start doing metal.. and it keeps on going.

thays what i was thinking buckets are easy to make with the router at work.

Originally Posted by dabears

Do they sell the Bucket linkages anywhere? or should you just make them from brass or steel?

im thinking you just make them out of steal or brass. i use tierods from a old touring car on my old build.

[cosworth34677]

Originally Posted by rockNmayhem

Just to answer a few of your questions in order the best I can from what experience I've had over the past year with my hydraulics from when he first started.
1. 10 bar pressure is actually a little underrated for full power that is more lower end operating pressure, I constantly have pressures around 150-170 and even peaking to 210 at times when testing the system.

2. A pressure relief valve is not necessary on these models if you have your pump set on a mixed channel that uses a master and slave setup. For instance the RDS8000 is great for this. I also have a Turnigy radio but it is not nearly as easy to setup.

3. I would run the plastic until you can figure out how to break it. The stock Bruder plastic on these models is really tough for, well "plastic". I have used the plastics as mock up and made some other pieces but the stock plastic is plenty strong for the pressures and forces you will be throwing at the model with the setup you are talking about.

4. Here is the fun part. Antifreeze is what Manolo recommends and uses in his models but a few things to keep in mind. DO NOT USE GREEN OR ORANGE/YELLOW ANTIFREEZE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I say this from lots of testing and down time of setting. These two antifreeze solutions are notorious in vehicles for building up and causing problems and they are even magnified in this small of an application. I have done a lot of different testing of different types of oils and weights along with other fluids such as virgin olive oil and simple water just to see the characteristics.

I have great pressures with a fully synthetic 10wt oil but volume and load on the pump is way too much for my likings to run it constantly.

I am going to have to suggest going with an RV antifreeze (pink in color usually) as it is a great weight non damaging fluid that still has some minimal lubricity to it for these machines. DO NOT and I repeat DO NOT mix it with water in the system. You want to run it straight out of the bottle into whatever tank you are using and have only that fluid in the system.

I hope this gives you a little insight into what you are getting with the system you are ordering and I have no doubts that you will enjoy it and have fun building your new project.

If you have any questions about anything feel free to ask away.

Tyler

ok i got the ki in the excavtor and a day of running im really happy ...but i was wondering what would happen if i ran something else in it other then poison(antifreeze) i was think maybe brake fuild , or even r/c shock oil?

[FlyingBeagle]

Dont hold me to this, you should DOUBLE CHECK THE LABEL on the product you are purchasing. If it is the same product I am thinking of, the pink RV antifreeze is non toxic.
It is used for winterizing RVs to keep the potable water lines and water heater from sustaining freeze damage during winter storage. I run this same stuff through my boat engine when I put it in storage for the winter. The kind I buy clearly states it is non toxic. I use it so I dont take a chance of killing any of my dogs I hope this helps as I saw your other post and your concerns about young children and animals are very valid as the bad kind tastes pretty darn good (dont ask me how I know). My wife is a Veterinarian and I have seen first hand an animal dying of antifreeze toxicity and it is a horrible sight. Just read the packaging clearly.